Phong Nha – 12th June

Wednesday 12th June was weigh day again and unfortunately I had consumed 353 syns this week, 160 of which had been on alcohol. We had ended up arguing last night as Captain Caveman always argues when we go for an Indian, this time it had been like Pagoda-gate but with words. I didn’t agree with anything he had said and had put it down to him being unhappy, stressed or both. Obviously me not having any paid work was probably not helping but being in 2 countries where I’m not allowed to legally work doesn’t help. There was no sorry at all this morning and we decided to eat breakfast at the homestay to see what it was like. Captain Caveman was due back in to the cave tomorrow and had his briefing tonight so I decided I would try to find some job opportunities while he was gone. He went down to the reception/cafe area to get a coffee while I finished getting ready and took my measurements. I was surprised to find that they weren’t too bad; my bust was the same, my waist had increased by 1cm and my hips had reduced by 1cm. Captain Caveman had egg and bread while I had beef noodle soup. It was quite nice but more like a bun than a pho and I had green tea with it.

Captain Caveman needed to go into Oxalis but I had decided to go to The Villas to do some blogging, I had a mango lassi, a pot of tea and some cute biscuits – not a great idea before getting weighed.
Captain Caveman joined me and we ordered lunch, he had the potato gratin with asparagus and I had the Australian meat pie with chips and gravy (an even worse idea before getting on the scales). We paid just 380,000VND (£11.47) for lunch and then headed to Oxalis on our way back to our homestay. While Captain Caveman sorted work related things out, I chilled out and watched the resident skink go about his business.

Captain Caveman went to his briefing for 6pm so I went to Phong Nha Vegan. Little May, the dog, was there with Lu from next door and came to greet me straight away. He wondered where I had been and brought me a dried leaf as a gift. I got on the scales to find I had put on 1kg while in Dong Hoi, which was less than I was expecting. For dinner I had fresh spring rolls and mushroom fried rice which was delicious. The Vegan girls ate Banh Trang Tron (which is not vegan) and it was quiet so I left about 8pm and went back to Son River House Homestay for wine with Chung and beers with Captain Caveman and Uy. We had some leftover Indian but no arguments. This was Captain Caveman’s last day off while I was here as he had 2 tours back to back and would be in the cave when I left Phong Nha.

Dong Hoi & Phong Nha – 11th June

It was an early start on Tuesday 11th June as we joined Stu and Max for a final Mr Bull’s Bo Ne breakfast. It would probably be my last in Vietnam for this year and that was sad. I was going to miss Dong Hoi, our friends there and the cute dogs who were now our friends. Our lift to Phong Nha with Oxalis and Dung arrived 30 minutes early and we said goodbye in a bit of a hurry. Captain Caveman had booked me a train from Dong Hoi to Danang for in 10 days time so I hoped I’d get to spend one more night in Dong Hoi before I left Vietnam.
We picked up 4 customers from the airport, Captain Caveman had a coffee for 30,000VND (91p) and then we got back in the minibus for the drive back home. Less than an hour later, after dropping the guests at Son Doong Bungalow, we were dropped off at our new and final accommodation for my last Phong Nha stay. We had decided to try out Son River House Homestay, which is near to the Glass House and Ho Khanh’s, right on the river. It is being managed by one of my best friends, Chung, so I was also looking forward to spending time with her. Check-in wasn’t until 2pm so we had already agreed to have lunch at Phong Nha Vegan with Dung as I had really missed eating there. We dumped our bags at reception, Captain Caveman got the motorbike from the Glass House and we rode to the Vegan.

I was desperately craving a vegan pho so I ordered that along with fried spring rolls and mushroom La Lot skewers to share. Dung had fresh spring rolls and Captain Caveman had the curry with steamed rice. It was all lovely and I enjoyed my iced kumquat tea to wash it down with. It was good to see Ha, Cuu, Hanh and Yen again after being away for so long.
We checked in to our upstairs room at Son River House Homestay after lunch and unpacked our stuff.

After bringing more of my stuff over, we cycled to The Villas for Summer cocktails. Today was Long Island Iced Tea, one of Captain Caveman’s favourites and we had 2 each, paying a total of 360,000VND (£10.92) as they were 50% off.

For dinner we decided to cycle to Ganesh for Indian food. We had a bottle of red wine, lamb samosas, onion bhajis, chicken tikka starter, garlic naan, saffron rice, chicken tikka masala and a daal for 798,300VND (£24.22). The food was fantastic but we did get a message from Chung to check if we were ok. The owner of the homestay was worried it was after 10pm and we weren’t back yet. We cycled back and put leftover Indian food in the fridge along with fruit and a bottle of wine as we didn’t have a room with a fridge. Our room was clean, tidy and comfortable with lovely views and good AC.

Dong Hoi – 10th June

Captain Caveman had an appointment at the ultrasound clinic on Monday 10th June, first thing. I popped to the chemist to try to get contraceptive pills but none of the 3 pharmacies I tried, had them.
We went in to town afterwards and, while Captain Caveman went to the Gold shop, I went to another pharmacy. I had to settle for a different kind of pill, which I know gives me side effects but I had no choice. Here’s what I bought, prices in Dong;

Pharmacy
1 Diclofenac 27,000
1 Loperamide 27,500
5 Ibuprofen 194,000
6 Contraceptive pill 898,800
Total 1,147,300VND (£34.80)

At the WinMart Captain Caveman bought bread, crisps and 2 bottles of cheap Italian wine for when Stu and the boys arrived later. They were due back later than expected so we tried the Banh My place next to the gold shop, as recommended by Duc at Cang’s vintage clothing. It was cheap and tasty and didn’t have all the pâté in, that I don’t like. After the sandwich, we ventured in to the market just as it was starting to get quite sweaty. Captain Caveman wanted to get something specific for his cousin’s wedding which we were going to in July. Our next stop for a bit of light refreshment was our favourite coconut stall and coffee shop. The man there is super friendly and hard working so we have been going to that particular guy since we were recommended him by Thao a few years ago.

Back at the house, Captain Caveman was in charge of kitchen cleaning and feeding the dogs while I had the sweaty job of hoovering up. We cleaned the house as best we could before having our cheese sandwiches for lunch. I told each dog (separately) that their family was coming home and I think they understood. Over the 10 days we had been looking after them I’d gained their trust by telling them short stories about dogs who were scared of the people looking after them.
Stu and the boys were due in around 5.30pm but I couldn’t wait to open the wine and had started celebrating their return without them. Rodger had always listened to my stories but Terror was having none of them, until today when I told him a story about a dog who’s owner had returned from a holiday and was very excited to see his pets. Terror jumped on to the sofa and licked my face and he knew his family was coming back.
When Stu and Max returned (Jack had gone straight to meet someone at the airport), they took it in turns to greet the dogs. Rodger was first and was so excited he did a wee while Terror whined to be let out of Jack’s room. When Jack returned briefly they got excited again and were very pleased to have the boys back.
The boys drank beer, I had a bottle of red wine to myself and we ordered takeaway from Oregano, of pizza and potato gratin. It was a good welcome back, we decided to stay over one more night and Max gave us his room again. Tomorrow we would head back to Phong Nha where I had just 10 nights left before I started my journey back to Turkey.

Dong Hoi – 9th June

Sunday 9th June was one of my favourite days in Dong Hoi (possibly ever)! My plan to meet Thuy yesterday had been moved to today and I was very much looking forward to seeing my old physiotherapist from when I tore my ligaments. Our first mission was to have breakfast at the pho place. We had underestimated how busy Pho Ly Quoc Su would be on a Sunday and they had run out of 2 of the Pho Bo dishes that Captain Caveman had chosen. We managed, it was still delicious and didn’t take too long to come, despite the busy restaurant. Back home Terror had got a little braver, wanting some attention even, so I had a game of football with him before we had to leave. He only has a wooden block, no balls, but he was happy with it.

Captain Caveman and I took a Grab taxi to Thuy’s new premises in Dong Hoi just before lunch time. There were lots of plastic shower shoes on the steps to swap our shoes for, but Captain Caveman’s feet were too big for any of them to fit. We waited in reception and Thuy came to meet us to show us around her very impressive physio business. I saw the lady who worked at the old place who used to make the heated wraps and she had helped me get to the toilet a few times while I’d been having the numerous hours of physio. She was really pleased to see us as we walked round, Thuy proudly showing us all the amazing rooms and facilities. When we had completed the thorough tour of the building, we had a few photos outside then Thuy called her driver to take us to her home. Since I’d last seen her, Thuy and her family had also moved house, and it was really nice and fancy. We were given some water, fruit and yoghurt while the rest of the family got ready. I met the children, Tin and Su, who I used to spend time practicing English with, before Covid. Tin was super confident and fluent in English now and Su was doing very well as Tin chatted on. Thuy and her husband had invited Captain Caveman and I to join the 4 of them plus Thuy’s sister for lunch. This time we were not going to the bird restaurant, which I was pleased about.

Thuy’s husband drove Captain Caveman, me, Thuy, her 2 kids and sister to Geminai restaurant. Captain Caveman and I hadn’t been for about a year and it had definitely had some changes and improvements. Because I’m fussy with food, I ordered my own Prawn Pad Thai but the rest of the adults ordered dishes to share. There was one pork dish with a bone in which looked impressive as well as duck and seafood rice dishes. Captain Caveman and I had a beer and the kids were allowed a Coke, they were exceptionally well behaved. Thuy wanted Tin and Su to pose for photos with us and Su was nervous so I told her she didn’t have to do anything she didn’t want to. She was super cute and gave me a hug and a kiss, which considering she was only 2 years old when I last saw her, was trusting. The lunch was amazing and I really enjoyed my food, as well as watching Captain Caveman don the plastic gloves to sort the meat out for the table.

I was not expecting Thuy to pay the entire bill, which was so lovely of her, but she also wanted to treat us some more. We stopped by the market so that she could buy some fruit, including our favourite mangosteens. Our next stop was the Phuc Long coffee shop where we were treated to a coffee for Captain Caveman and a peach tea for me. Tin and Su were super comfortable around us by this time and were chatting really well to me. I’m not usually a child person but I loved these two and they were so cute as well as very clever. On the ride back to Stu’s house we joked about the stinky squid drying. When we stopped to get out they all smelled the stench and didn’t get out of the car so I did hugs from inside. It had been an amazing day and I felt very lucky.

Having had such a lovely day, we decided to finish off the evening with another meal out. We walked both dogs (separately) who were now very friendly and behaving nicely. Stu and the boys were due back tomorrow and were in Saigon tonight. Originally we had planned to leave on Monday morning, as Captain Caveman had his briefing that night. However, his tour had been swapped and he was no longer working tomorrow. We got a taxi to Khoi Bistro and had a really lovely meal with craft beer. Captain Caveman had a seafood omelette which, quite frankly, made my stomach turn but he enjoyed it and I had a pork dish as my initial choice of duck was sold out. It was busy with it being a weekend and there was a massive private party but the owner still found time to chat to us. Our bill came to 455,000VND (£13.80) which was very good value considering that included mussels and a 2 litre keg of beer. We really enjoyed it and to top off a fantastic day, when we got back home, Terror jumped up on to the sofa for strokes and kisses. Rodger took himself off to bed in our (Max’s) room and slept next to the fan at the bottom of our bed.

Dong Hoi – 8th June

It doesn’t take a genius to work out that I completely ruined all plans for Saturday 8th June by being unable to function properly. The hangover was bad, Captain Caveman had to see to Rodger and Terror while I had to rearrange an appointment with my old physio and her family. I didn’t manage any breakfast and could barely drink my litre of water.
At lunch time I was in no position to get on the back of a motorbike to go anywhere. Captain Caveman ordered a Tree Hugger delivery for lunch for us. I ordered the beef and vegetable rice plate, while Captain Caveman went for the burger. It cost 200,000VND (£6.13) for our meals and 2 drinks.
We ran out of water so Captain Caveman had to venture out to get one of the 19 litre refills, for 25,000VND (77p).
We made it out for walks twice in the evening, both Terror and Rodger were keen for a wander. Captain Caveman managed to buy a case of 24 beers for 270,000VND (£8.27) so he could fill up the fridge for Stu and the boys’ return on Monday. For dinner we went to Oregano where we had pasta and shared a Caesar salad before heading back home and going back to bed, me still feeling very rough!

Dong Hoi & Phong Nha – 7th June

At 7.30am on Friday 7th June there was an air of excitement as it looked like Rodger was ready to go at last. I’d gone downstairs to use the bathroom and then had to shout up to Captain Caveman to hurry along and bring me a bra. Rodger didn’t want to put the lead on, even though on the label it said he was a Police Dog, but we eventually got it on and then there was no stopping him. Captain Caveman had to take him as he was too strong for me and he pulled until he got to the first corner of grass. We were all so happy that Rodger had finally done his business at last. By 8am we were walking back to the house, me in my sleepwear, Rodger looking very proud of himself indeed.

For a late breakfast/very early lunch we went to Saigon Deli where we bought the dogs food and had our usual pork dishes. After feeding the dogs their lunch, Terror seemed to also be getting a bit more friendly. Before noon we had a video call with Stu so we could share the amazing news that Rodger had managed a walk and a poo after a whole week of not going!
At 12.15pm we were getting picked up as we were off on a bit of a jolly!

There was an Oxalis 13 year anniversary party which Captain Caveman and I had been invited to. He was going to be getting a certificate to commemorate 10 years with Oxalis (it was actually 11). The drive to Phong Nha involved picking up some flowers for the party and we waited in the minibus. We got dropped off at The Villas, as that’s where I’d left Bluey just over a week ago. I had a sensible cup of tea to start with but then we realised it was half price margaritas on Fridays and we just had to indulge. We were peckish by this time so we ordered lunch which was rather filling. I had the chicken and bacon sandwich (with chips) and Captain Caveman ordered the salmon.

During our visit, we bumped in to a Victory Road Villas guest, called Meyer, who also enjoys a drop of Tequila. We got chatting and he brought his very own bottle of Tequila out. We shared a shot or two with this rather interesting Australian fella and had a great time. After our margaritas and a couple of tequilas with Meyer it was almost time to go to the Oxalis party. We paid our bill which was a very reasonable 1,120,000VND (£34.10) for cocktails, tea and our lunch.

Of course, we should have got on our bikes and cycled to Oxalis for their 13th anniversary party, however, we were beckoned over by the disabled family across by the river, who own the small cafe. We were joined by shaky-hand girl, so called because she loves to shake hands with people for the longest time and is very friendly. Captain Caveman had a Vietnamese drip coffee and I had a fresh coconut and then we decided to visit Tuan on the floating boat restaurant and bar, as we were in the vicinity.

Nha Be Noi Song Son (the Vietnamese name) is so lovely, primarily known for its fresh seafood and catering to large groups, but is also great for a couple of pork spring rolls and a beer. The owner, Tuan, had been swimming in the river but came to join us, along with shaky-hand girl.

We cycled to Oxalis just in time to join the anniversary party where it was good to see staff being recognised and rewarded for their continued service. As Oxalis was very busy with tours there wasn’t everyone there but I saw a few familiar faces. Chau, the owner, was on a TV link up from Saigon, having left his brother in charge of the proceedings including the certificate and gift presentation.
Luckily, it wasn’t a late one and we got a lift back to Dong Hoi with some of Captain Caveman’s colleagues. At 10pm, after letting the dogs out (still separately of course) we were in bed. I fell asleep on the sofa and Terror made some progress as he started to give me licks. Rodger was my new best friend and he came to sleep in our room easily, he even let me give him a stroke.

Dong Hoi – 6th June

Captain Caveman and I were back to Mr Bull’s Bo Ne breakfast on Thursday 6th June, his with coffee and mine with lots of iced green tea. Back ‘home’ there was a little bit of progress with the dogs; Terror had stopped growling at us every time we went in to ‘his’ (Jack’s) room and I almost got a lead on Rodger who still had not had a poo.
For lunch we needed more food for the dogs so we went to Saigon Deli to eat where we had the same as we always do, pork, veg and rice. The dogs got their usual of pork, quails egg and rice and the total amount came to 266,000VND (£8.30). On the way back I wanted to call at An Nong which is an organic fruit and veg shop. As we approached I got a bit of a spasm in my stomach and needed the toilet, urgently. I waited outside, Captain Caveman took far too long, in my mind, to grab 800g of mangosteen for 95,000VND (£2.97), our favourite fruit.
We made it back in time and I spent rather too long in the downstairs bathroom before retiring to the AC of the bedroom to rest. When I was back to some semblance of normality, Captain Caveman and I unfortunately got involved in some Oxalis related issues. One was that I’d spotted one of the sales team had posted on Facebook to say there was a rare spare space on an upcoming Son Doong tour. Accidentally using the Google translated word ‘Dangerous’ to describe it. I told Captain Caveman so that he could let the girl know to change it but it seemed the original Vietnamese word was something like ‘rare’ or ‘scarce’ and the translation just didn’t match correctly.
I was about to go back upstairs to the AC and for a lay down when Captain Caveman got an email from work. His supervisors were in the UK but needed to know if he could cover a Son Doong trip starting tomorrow. They didn’t have anyone else to cover it due to an issue/delay with permission sign off for the safety specialist and they needed to know straight away. The briefing was in Phong Nha in an hour’s time so someone could do that for him as he wouldn’t make it in time (how thoughtful). I was absolutely fuming and did not want him to do it. He had agreed to look after Stu’s house and dogs for another 4 days so it meant I would have to continue alone and without transport or any help. Captain Caveman told me the money would come in handy and that he didn’t have any choice as there was no one else available so he was going to reply with agreement to do it. I stormed off upstairs to pack stuff so that he could take some of my stuff back with him in the morning. He wouldn’t return to Dong Hoi so I didn’t want to be carrying all my stuff back by myself, once Stu and the boys returned. I suggested we have a video call with Stu, once he had finished packing and going to buy stuff for the dogs and me for while he was gone. I also decided to point out that I thought it a bit rich that he had been told he was no longer needed after this year but yet the company still didn’t seem to be able to provide cover without asking him.

It took me a while to calm down and reflect on the situation. I’d felt annoyed with Captain Caveman for his seeming inability to say no to doing a last minute Son Doong tour. However, on reflection, I knew he was doing it to help out his co-workers. A lot of his colleagues would be relying on him and that was probably his motivation to agree to it. I went back downstairs to apologise for having a strop and we had a hug. Both of us were a bit sad about the situation but had accepted it and we had prepared for me to take over the house and dog sitting – I would be fine.
The phone rang, it was one of his supervisors to say they didn’t need him now!!!! I had to walk in to another room and bite my tongue!
We got ready, walked Terror, but not Rodger, and went out to Oregano again for dinner. We shared a gorgeous Caesar salad, Spag Bol and a salami pizza. It was so good that we ordered a second pizza to take home. We were both relieved that Captain Caveman didn’t have to work tomorrow and when we got back Rodger seemed to be a bit more friendly towards me – or was he just hoping for a piece of pizza!?

Dong Hoi – 5th June

We woke up on Wednesday 5th June to another hot and sticky day. I took my measurements to find I had put 1cm on my bust and hips but my waist had stayed the same. I had lost 0.85kg (1.9lb) which was a good result considering how many syns (251) I’d had. Captain Caveman had found a pho restaurant not too far away and we rode there for breakfast. I really enjoyed Pho Ly Quoc Su where we had 2 Pho Bo (beef noodle soups), dough sticks, a coffee and a peach tea for 170,000VND (£5.28).

We rode back home and chilled out, Captain Caveman played Bridge and we let each dog out separately.
In just 3 weeks I would be back in Dalyan and I kept reminding Captain Caveman this. There was also a heat wave happening there and I hoped my parents were coping.
For lunch we had bananas and cheese toasties so I used some syns there. Later in the afternoon, we had some progress with Rodger when he came in to Max’s bedroom with me. He only came for a look and then when back out but it showed he was trusting me more. He still wouldn’t go for a walk but Terror was really enjoying his evening walks now.

In the evening the diet went by the wayside yet again as we went by taxi to a new place for dinner. Here’s what we had with prices in Dong at a rather nice restaurant;

Khoi Bistro
Peanuts 10,000
1 Full Moon Beer 45,000
1 Hero Beer 50,000
2 Rosé Beer 58,000
2 litre Beer keg 120,000
Pork and veg with rice 180,000
Pork ribs with salad 250,000
Total spent 713,000VND (£22.13)

The food was really good and we particularly liked the beers. It turned out to be owned and run by a guy who used to live in Phong Nha so we got chatting with him. We also got some children from the next table come to say hello and they took a bit of a shine to Captain Caveman. I’d really enjoyed the meal and the beers and hoped we would visit Khoi Bistro again while we were in Dong Hoi.

Dong Hoi – 4th June

The heat wasn’t letting up any on Tuesday 4th June as the warnings at 6am were that it felt like 35°C and 76% humidity. By 9am we had ventured out on the motorbike to Mr Bull for another Bo Ne breakfast. At 1.30pm the humidity had dropped to 56% but with a feels like 44°C and it was quite unbearable. Today was the day I should have been moving in to Steve and Michelle’s house in Lardos, Rhodes, to look after their dog and several cats. I noticed on Facebook that Steve and Michelle had unfriended me and they were about to head off on their round the world trip of a lifetime. Obviously, it was a shame that it had come to that but given that I had let them down on the dog sit I knew their reasons. Unfortunately, without any income and all the uncertainty in my life right now, I couldn’t have done anything else and some things aren’t meant to work out. They now just came up as ‘People I may know’ on my Facebook.
It took me ages to prise Captain Caveman away from his Bridge but by 2.30pm I was rather hungry. We went to another one of my favourites, Tree Hugger, where I had a chicken salad and a peach tea. Captain Caveman had his usual egg sandwich and a smoothie, followed by a lime and mint slushy which he was meant to share but forgot.

Back outside Stu’s house, there was lots of drying squid which made me feel sick. There was also a lovely old building nearby which I liked the look of. Rodger still wouldn’t go for a walk but sat outside sunbathing once it got a little cooler. We walked Terror and then went to Oregano again for dinner.

I ordered a Spaghetti Bolognese, Captain Caveman ordered a Carbonara and a salami pizza, of which I had half. When we got back to the house we decided to open some wine we had brought but there was no corkscrew in the house. Captain Caveman went back out to buy one and we shared the wine while trying to encourage Terror to not chase bugs/mice in the under stairs cupboard.
This week I’d had 251 syns, 58 of which were alcohol, and tomorrow was weigh day – it wasn’t looking good!

Dong Hoi – 3rd June

Captain Caveman and I went to Mr Bull’s for breakfast on Monday 3rd June where we both had the Bo Ne (steak and eggs) for a total of 120,000VND (£3.73). I bought a bottle of water at the WinMart and we drove back to Stu’s. Captain Caveman was picked up at 9am to go back to Oxalis for the day, I was in charge of Rodger and Terror. Both of them were fine when allowed to roam around (separately of course) but they didn’t want any petting or any interaction. It was a shame as they are lovely dogs but it was obvious they didn’t trust us.
I had fruit for lunch as I was trying to get back to being healthy again, I was on 150 syns already for this week.
Captain Caveman arrived back in a good mood, as it cheers him up when he goes to work on a day off. He’d also managed to squeeze in a lunch with Ho Khanh and Nghia. After a walk with just Terror and several failed attempts with Rodger, who still hadn’t had a poo since Friday, we went out for dinner.
Oregano was open so we had a pizza, I chose the veggie one which was very nice. It’s a lovely place but they don’t sell wine, only beer which I was still trying not to have. We bumped in to an old Oxalis colleague of Captain Caveman’s who now owns a vintage clothes shop, Cang’s, which is opposite Oregano. Duc is good fun and I sat and chatted to Luke, another ex Oxalis member, on a video call while Duc and Captain Caveman drank beer.

Dong Hoi – 2nd June

Captain Caveman and I woke up on Sunday 2nd June to a severe heat weather warning. Even the weather updates were telling us to drink water. I decided I was not going anywhere I didn’t have to, but Captain Caveman, despite his day off, had to venture to the Gold shops to change the foreign currency from the tip money. He also decided to go to the shop as I was desperate for some fruit. He borrowed Stu’s motorbike and was gone a while, returning with the below;

Co-op Mart Supermarket
Bananas 13,450
Dragon fruit 19,391
Plums 20,152
Apples 31,283
5 Grains biscuits 51,500VND
Total spent 135,676VND (£4.21)

I’d not had any breakfast, and the dogs needed some lunch getting so Captain Caveman drove us to Saigon Deli. He and I had the pork with rice for lunch and ordered the dogs their usual pork, quails egg and rice for their’s. The food was very nice and cheap, my dish (without egg) cost 42,000VND (£1.31).
Back at our temporary home, I fed the dogs, Captain Caveman had put some washing on, including various items of the lads which he’d found around the house. I went to help him hang it up but he got snappy with me for doing it wrong! I left him to it and went back in to the Aircon bedroom and did some writing.
At 6.30pm I had to interrupt Captain Caveman’s afternoon of Bridge playing for us to attempt the dog walks. Rodger was having none of it and disappeared down the side of the house. We eventually got him back in and in to a spare bedroom, while we got Terror out. He was still a bit nervous around us but we got the lead on and off we went.
There was a drone event on in town which Captain Caveman was interested in going to, I wasn’t bothered. We took the motorbike to go for food at Oregano but it was closed. Instead we went to one of my favourite restaurants in Dong Hoi, 7th Heaven. Captain Caveman ordered a Caesar salad and a spicy dish. I ordered the not spicy chicken Luk Lak. Unfortunately, I couldn’t eat mine as it was so spicy and obviously had chillies in. I ordered some cheesy garlic bread and made do with that, we took the rest of my dish home and put it in the freezer. Of course, we then couldn’t go to see the drone show because I had a bad stomach, and Captain Caveman wasn’t too pleased. I went back to the AC of the bedroom when we got in while Captain Caveman resumed his Bridge. Tomorrow he had arranged to go in to work, on his day off, as he had the tips and some other stuff to sort out.

Dong Hoi – 1st June

Captain Caveman and I woke up, in Max’s bed, on Saturday 1st June feeling a bit woolly. I had just over 3 weeks left in Vietnam, until a brief visit to Turkey on my way to the UK to get a new passport and pick up some other documents from my home town. It was a bit too early to get up but we had to say bye to Stu, Max & Jack before they left for their trip to Australia. We also had to use the downstairs bathroom for the toilet. We went to Mr Bull’s for breakfast where we all had Bo Ne and I gave my egg to Captain Caveman.
After the guys had left we tried to be friendly with the dogs, each in turn. Rodger was so scared of us that he hid down the side of the house. Terror was not as scared but was intent on guarding Jack’s room by snarling at us if we went near.
Captain Caveman was sick with a cold, he was tired and grumpy and mainly played Bridge all day. Only he is able to ride a motorbike and we were quite a way from town so I would have to rely on him for the next 10 days to go anywhere. When it got to lunch time, Captain Caveman didn’t want to go anywhere as he was playing Bridge so I had some of the 5 Grains biscuits to put me on. I’d been looking forward to having a kitchen to cook in after 3 months without one. Unfortunately, it was too hot for me to bother with. I fed the dogs who had leftover pork, rice and quail eggs but they weren’t too pleased at me going in to their rooms to get the bowls. For dinner, I thought Captain Caveman would take us out somewhere in Dong Hoi but he was still feeling ill and playing Bridge.
Stu had left us some ham, cheese, bacon, lettuce and bread in the fridge so Captain Caveman made us a cheese and ham toastie. Since I’d been ill last month, I was still not great with ham and I wasn’t a fan of the sandwiches. It also meant that I was already on 131 syns for this week with 3 more days to go.
We tried to walk the dogs but neither of them were compliant, Rodger was absolutely having none of it. Terror wanted to but just didn’t trust us until eventually Captain Caveman got him on the lead. Once outside, he walked fine and we did a short walk together then came back. I didn’t take any photos of the dogs as they were not up for it, but I really they hoped they would get used to us.

Phong Nha & Dong Hoi – 31st May

The last day of the month, Friday 31st May, was a busy one. Captain Caveman was due back from the cave in the afternoon and we had plans for me to join him at Chay Lap that night. We had agreed to house and dogsit for our friends, Stu, Max & Jack, in Dong Hoi until the 10th of next month. They were off to Australia tomorrow morning and couldn’t leave the dogs with just anyone or put them in kennels. I packed my bag in the morning as I needed to check out and I paid the bill for Phong Nha Homestay, which was a bargain at 3,744,000VND (£115), including quite a bit of laundry, for a total of 17 nights. It was still one of my favourite places to stay in Phong Nha centre due to it being so clean, cheap and safe. Plus the family who own it are no-nonsense honest people. I left my bag for us to pick up later and I was heading to Phong Nha Vegan when I noticed it was about to rain. I had just stepped in to The Villas and shouted to the staff to let them know it had started to rain as they had the roof canopy open. While they rushed in to action to move stuff that was going to get wet, I got comfy and perused the rather hefty breakfast menu over a nice pot of tea and some homemade biscuits. I decided I was going to have the bacon and egg roll, but without the egg. It was really good and the bread was fresh and soft.
I spent the morning there as the rain poured down then I ordered the salami and prawn spaghetti with parmesan for lunch. It was delicious, although rather more generous with the salami than the prawns, so not great for that diet I was supposed to be on.
Captain Caveman arrived and had a pizza, as is his usual, and I didn’t share any. By 2pm we were taking full advantage of the summer cocktail offers and today, as it was Friday, there was 50% off margaritas! After a couple of drinks I got peckish again and ordered a Margherita pizza with more Margarita cocktails (this could get confusing). Our total bill with the summer offers came to just 917,000VND (£28.40) – great value and I was rather merry!
While Captain Caveman did the gala dinner with his tour group at Chay Lap, I played pool with the taxi driver. He thrashed me as he plays rules where you can hit any ball on any go – it made it quicker and certainly interesting. He offered to share his portion of french fries, which I politely declined, and we talked about his wife and family which was very nice.
We obviously arrived at Stu’s place quite late, and tiddly. Captain Caveman had shouted at me for not knowing the way when it turned out I did. I stormed off inside, leaving him to get all the bags, and we had a beer with Stu and met the dogs. They were Vietnamese dogs, and weren’t particularly friendly towards us. Rodger had a blood parasite and had recently had one eye removed so looked like a pirate and Terror was the son of Rodger, who hated his head being touched. The next week or so was certainly going to keep us on our toes, especially as the 2 dogs could not be in the same room at any time. Max, the eldest son, gave up his bedroom for Captain Caveman and I to sleep in and it had a decent AC unit which was very good of him.

Phong Nha – 29th & 30th May

Wednesday 29th May was a long day for me. I woke up having been bitten even more and my elbow was swollen, there was a dead cockroach on the floor next to the bed so I was convinced, that was what had bitten me. I took my measurements as it was weigh day again and I found that my bust was the same, I’d put 1cm on my waist and lost 1cm off my hips. On the way to Phong Nha Vegan, I called at the pharmacy and she recommended Remos gel 51,000VND (£1.59) for my bites. I was early and knew the vegan wouldn’t be open yet so I called in at The Villas for a fruit salad with yoghurt and muesli and a pot of tea. When I got weighed at Phong Nha Vegan I was disappointed to find I had put on 0.85Kg (1.9lb).
For lunch I had Com Suon, a fake pork dish with steamed rice and veggies, and the place was still a bit understaffed. I had hoped a friend would be able to come join me for lunch but I didn’t see her.
After about 2.5 hours at the Vegan in the heat I cycled back to the homestay, for my postponed video call with Vanessa.
Unfortunately, there were more complaints from Dalyan because the neighbours had random dogs and cats in the stairwell and the tenants said to Jamie that the next door neighbours had also complained. I had to leave it with the agent and go back to the Vegan as my friend was waiting for me there. She had a papaya salad and watched me run about trying to help out as there were no staff again, I managed to squeeze in some mushroom skewers before cycling home to deal with Captain Caveman’s apartment complaints. On the way back, I stopped at the fruit lady and bought 100,000VND (£3.10) worth of mangosteen. The tenants staying in Captain Caveman’s apartment had decided to have a pool day but when they went down, the pool was being filled with chemicals and they couldn’t use it. This was the 2nd time the pool had been unavailable so they weren’t happy and had had to go to a nearby hotel to use their pool. As they were paying £400 per month to have a 2 bedroomed apartment with a shared pool, they were frustrated at not getting what they had paid for. I sent a message to the pool and garden guy to complain that he could have told us in advance, but he said didn’t know about it as his workers had done it. By the time he sent me an update, the pool looked good to me but it was already 4pm there. I was beginning to wish we’d never agreed to rent the place out. I was awake until 2am but then I had to turn my phone off. It was still 32°C in Phong Nha and I had to be up early tomorrow morning.

I had another busy day on Thursday 30th May, an early start for breakfast at The Villas. I had my favourite breakfast of pho ga (chicken noodle soup) with a passion fruit juice. I paid 100,000VND (£3.10) and really enjoyed my meal before heading off to Phong Nha Vegan. They had received some good Google reviews which was nice. For lunch I had arranged to meet Veronika for a farewell meal so I didn’t need to eat at the vegan. Nevertheless, Hanh cooked me some sweet potato fries with salt and pepper.
I arrived a little late to The Villas, where Veronika and Deborah were waiting for me. They both ordered salmon for lunch but I was craving some dairy so I chose a ham and cheese toasty with a vanilla milkshake. As Veronika and Deborah were off to Australia next week, it was our farewell lunch and it felt weird not knowing when we would see each other again. After our meal, Ben was waiting to give Veronika and Deborah a lift back the Phong Nha Farmstay so we said our goodbyes and I cycled back to the homestay for a shower and a rest. I was back at the Phong Nha Vegan that evening, where it was another busy one and I met some lovely tourists. Many kept returning as the food was so good. I ate a crispy vegetable ramen dish which was so tasty. The weather forecast kept saying rain and clouds but it was very hot and hadn’t been cloudy at all. Back at the homestay, I got in bed and waited for news from Ma & Pa that they had landed in Turkey, they were heading back to Dalyan tonight and would be there when I arrived.

Phong Nha – 28th May

Captain Caveman’s alarm went off at 6.30am on Tuesday 28th May and he got ready to leave for his next 4 day cave trip. He gave me 5,000,000VND (£156) for spends with instructions not to spend it all. I went back to sleep after saying bye and when I woke up again, I had a bite on my right arm which hurt. I took 2 antihistamines but they didn’t stop the swelling and itching.

I went to Phong Nha Vegan but was late to arrive on account of a small incident with a snake. On the road outside the Thao Nguyen homestay there was a black snake. It looked like a young cobra so I got off my bicycle to take a photo. It was alive and struggling to cross the road so I stopped the traffic, as best as I could, to let it pass. I managed to get a video to ask a Snake group, I’m a member of on Facebook, what it was. I then let it move on, in to some shrubbery, before getting back on my bicycle to carry on. Some of the Vietnamese mothers, who were watching me, looked worried and it did turn out to be a cobra which is venomous.

I arrived at the Vegan just after 11am, where I got bit again, this time by ants. I ate fresh spring rolls at the Vegan and only stayed for 2 hours as it was just too hot to cope. On the way home I called in to the shop and bought the following, prices in Dong;

WinMart Supermarket
1 Twister drink 11,000
1 pack toothpicks 25,000
1 X 3 pack Ferrero Rocher 39,000
Total spent 75,000VND (£2.33)

Unfortunately, in the afternoon I had to deal with complaints from Dalyan about Captain Caveman’s apartment, again. The gardens and pool area were a disgrace (again) and now there was a yapping dog on the balcony of the apartment opposite. Animals are not allowed on our complex so I was frustrated to find out that the people staying in that apartment were also feeding stray cats outside ours and the neighbours doors. I love animals but it’s not on to be feeding them at the top of some stairs where there is no room. Our neighbour could trip over the bowls or cats and fall. Just what we needed – what is wrong with people!? I complained to our pool company again via messenger but he didn’t reply so I let the agent know we had problems again.
I had a video call with Vanessa planned while she was back in the UK but had to move it to tomorrow as I was in a rush to get back to the Vegan for 6pm. To calm me down I had a Banh Canh (vegan soup) for dinner and a kumquat tea. The vegan was not overly busy but with less staff again, the staff worked harder and I didn’t get to leave until 9.30pm. My weekly syns came to only 206 so I was hoping for a good result for weigh day tomorrow.