Dalyan – 31st March

Captain Caveman arrived at his Dalyan apartment at about 1.30am on Monday 31st March. His flight had been delayed by 4.5hours and they had to change on to a different plane. There was a quick welcome kiss but we had more pressing things to attend to. Captain Caveman emptied the case of the frozen and chilled products which had been wrapped in the Metro newspaper. We needed to get the bacon and sausage in the freezer, the cheese and chorizo in the fridge. The rest of the stuff could wait until morning! He had brought so much stuff and the only things he couldn’t get from my list was bouillon and a particular coconut powder. After the coldest wares had been attended to, we ate cheese pasties and finished off the wine before finally going to bed at stupid o’clock! Miraculously, we slept in until about 8.30am!!! Captain Caveman had taken the day off work, as well as tomorrow, but had decided to check if he could log in to do work while in Turkey. Unfortunately, he couldn’t join the morning team meeting but he did have access to files so he would need to get that fixed if he wanted to be able to do work while visiting me. By 10.20am, Captain Caveman had unpacked the rest of the goodies and we had a full kitchen table of them. My old stick blender had broken so I was so excited to get a new one, plus a silicon liner for the air fryer.
Captain Caveman had also brought out my freebie copy of a book, from Charlie Day of The Sales Agency. I’d been following her and had helped with some lead generation work. It was about making sales without being aggressively salesy and was right up my street. I couldn’t wait to read it but I wasn’t about to take it back to London with me. Captain Caveman was meant to have brought a couple of copies of my book out for Sezgin and Debbie but he couldn’t get them in time so I had ordered them to come to London.
Captain Caveman made himself some breakfast with eggs and I had overnight oats with a cup of tea. It was raining and the wind was getting up a bit so Captain Caveman had resigned himself to the fact that we were going nowhere. For lunch we had homemade soup with cheese pasties and bread. We also marked the occasion with a beer each, mine a gluten free one as normal Efes no longer sits right with me. While Captain Caveman opened boxes from storage and rearranged all his belongings, I attended the next session of Claire Clarke’s Planner Ideation course. This is where I decided I needed a white board, some marker pens and highlighters adding to my office. I had another project on the go and was excited to see where that would lead. Captain Caveman also managed to squeeze in a trip to the barbers.
It was my Dad’s birthday and they were enjoying their last day away so we had a video call and said Happy Birthday. Dad seemed to be enjoying himself and was impressed by the dessert selection on offer.

At 5.30pm, despite the grey skies and threatening rain, I suggested to Captain Caveman that we go for a walk. I knew we needed to be at Sezgin and Nur’s house for 6.30pm for the surprise dinner and drinks. Somehow I needed to get the chocolate, rakı and wine round there too so I said I needed to drop something off along the way. I tried to be a bit vague as I shoved it all in a rucksack while Captain Caveman wasn’t looking. Once on the walk, which Captain Caveman decided we were going by the river for but we needed to be heading to Gülpınar, he wanted to carry the bag! I think he could tell something was up as he suggested we go to Heybe for a drink and to say hi to Donny. I knew we were going to be late but I had to make it look casual, so we stopped off. We noticed that Retro bar was close to being reopened for the start of the season and now had a massive statue – it was certainly going to stand out and be a bit different to how it looked before. We carried on walking as I pretended we were just passing near where Debbie & Mike lived and I said we could perhaps stop by and say hello, knowing they were already at Sezgin’s for the surprise party. We ended up getting a bit lost (on purpose) and were late so I had to say we would just say hello to Sezgin and Nur, as we just happened to be passing! Everyone was so glad to see Captain Caveman and I think he realised what was going on but didn’t say anything. Nur had cooked an amazing meal with börek, salad and Baba ghanoush for starters. Then for main we had liver with rice which was delicious – Captain Caveman ate two lots. For dessert we had creme caramel which was delicious too. There was lots of wine for me, I’d taken red, white for Nur, plus the big bottle of rakı for Captain Caveman to share. We had a great night with lots of laughter and music. I think it was about 1am when we finally went home, having danced and drank whisky. Why do I do this on the night before a flight!?
It was the last day of the month and I’d been too busy today to see how I’d done against my monthly budget of £300 – I suspected I had gone over, though!

Gratitude List
1. Captain Caveman finally making it to Dalyan for 34 hours!
2. Being brought lots of goodies from the UK
3. A great ‘surprise’ party for Captain Caveman at Sezgin and Nur’s place.

Dalyan – 29th March

I watched the sunrise on Saturday 29th March and got a text from a friend from the Berlin 10. Her delivery of ‘You Can’t Shit Yourself on a Bicycle’ had come yesterday and she had sent me a selfie with it. I was really chuffed and hoped Drexy would enjoy reading it. I also got a review from my mate Jamie, in Dalyan, who had only read the first chapter and thought it was hilarious! Unfortunately, Amazon only lets you review purchases once you have spent £40 so anyone who only used it to buy my book was not able to review it. This was a shame as it meant I only had 5 reviews so far.
I decided not to go to the market today and cracked on with work, seeing as Captain Caveman would be here on Monday and I was taking Tuesday off.
I had overnight oats with berries for breakfast and checked my money situation. I was pleased to find I was doing OK for March, despite having splashed out a bit more this month. I had a break for a sage tea and couldn’t resist a Dido from the fridge, since I had quite a stock of them now.
At lunch I had more of the soup with bread and then I popped to the bank and shops, here’s what I bought with prices in lira;

BIM Süpermarket
500g pasta 11.50
1kg lentils 36.75
1kg Basmati rice 62.50
4 Dido chocolate bars 78.00
Total spent 188.75 lira (£3.84)

A101 Supermarket
2 packets taco wraps 33.00
Marshmallows 37.00
Wholemeal bread 47.50
Washing Powder 134.75
Total spent 252.25 lira (£5.14)

In the afternoon I continued to work as the skies turned very dark with rain forecast. Another couple of friends shared my book posts on Facebook and a friend of Jamie’s sent me her book selfie as she had also started reading it. I was really pleased and sales were starting to take off but it was a hard slog doing it self published, just getting people to know about it.
That evening I warmed up a veggie curry with a naan bread and drank red wine, counting down to seeing Captain Caveman, tomorrow night.
Tonight the clocks would go forward in the UK, but not in Turkey, making me only 2 hours ahead.

Gratitude List
1. Getting to the end of the month and still having money left
2. Support from friends with my handy travel tips book
3. Looking forward to only being 2 hours ahead of the UK.

The link to buy my book:

Dalyan – 24th & 25th March

I was busy working all day on Monday 24th March. Many of the suppliers had sales that were ending at the end of the month so I was focusing on some Jet2 and easyJet deals.
By lunch time I was having warmed up courgette fritter and cheese roll from yesterday’s Sunday dinner. Captain Caveman requested a Friday and Monday off for the end of next month to meet me in Turkey again. It was less than a week until he arrived in Dalyan for the first time this year! I finished work at 4pm as I had enrolled on a course. I had joined Claire Clarke on a Planner Ideation course and was straight on to that from 4pm to 5pm. The course was very informative and was going to help me produce something I thought would help people as well as promote my business. After the course, Claire, who is a publisher, was super helpful and offered free help to get my book edited to look more professional. We had a zoom call where she talked me through how to do it and shared her screen. She was an absolute whizz at sizing, margins and layout for the cover! It was done in no time and I wished I had the money to have paid to have it done properly. But I didn’t, I was so grateful for the help that I could’ve cried, especially when I took in to account how long it had taken me to do it less than perfect in the first place.
I managed to get a video call in to my parents who were celebrating their birthdays away and seemed to be having a great time.
I also messaged Captain Caveman, who was busy working but pleased to know that I was going to be travelling back with him to the UK next month.
I had left over Sunday dinner but no wine and then had an early night as I was very tired.

Gratitude List
1. Starting the Planner Ideation Course
2. Speaking to Ma & Pa who were enjoying a holiday
3. Being booked on the flight to the UK and I had selected the seat behind Captain Caveman.

It had been nice weather recently but, when I woke up on Tuesday 25th March, I noticed the good weather was not set to continue. Sezgin and Nur had offered to host a surprise BBQ for Captain Caveman and some friends on Monday, but the weather might not be suitable. A Plan B might be on the cards!
I got my passport out as I was excited to be going back to the UK but I was only planning on a quick visit due to having commitments in Dalyan already. I hadn’t booked the return flight yet, though. I made a pancake for breakfast with my Yorkshire tea and added items to my list of things to get from the UK. Captain Caveman had already planned to bring me lots of stuff as he had booked hold luggage.
I worked until 3.30pm, when it looked like it might rain so I nipped to the shops. Here’s what I bought, with prices in lira;

Pharmacy
2 packs of Cerazette 658.36 lira (£13.44)

Stationers
2 Notebooks 100.00
2 Pens 50.00
Total spent 150.00 lira (£3.06)

Migros Supermarket
2 Dido chocolate bars 33.00
2 Quark 70.00
Toilet rolls 99.95
Total spent 202.95 lira (£4.14)

When I got home, I got a really lovely surprise from one of my friends; Louisa had sent me a selfie to say her copy of ‘You Can’t Shit Yourself on a Bicycle’ had arrived and she was looking forward to reading about our adventures. Louisa was mentioned in the book, so once again, I was looking forward to her reading it and her review.
For dinner, I made a chicken and vegetable pasta bake with left over chicken and it was very tasty. I ended up working until gone 10pm as I wanted to get some posts on social media scheduled in. Tomorrow I would have another busy day.

Gratitude List
1. Managing to get my book available in Spain.
2. Cute notebooks which I used for a social media post
3. Dido chocolate bars being on offer.

Dalyan – 19th March

By 7am on Wednesday 19th March, I was having snuggles on the sofa with Edna after both dogs had eaten breakfast and been outside. The weather had turned and more bad weather warnings came. My measurements showed no change to my bust or hips but I’d lost 2cm from my waist – I was doing really well with being under target on actual centimetres. For some reason, I had managed to be so busy with other stuff that I forgot to do my food diary. I checked my Amazon account as I had been actively selling ‘You Can’t Shit Yourself on a Bicycle’ for the last 10 days and had sold more than 1 per day on average! I was continuing to get 5 Star reviews too, which I was pleased about. This was good news as I was only using my own Facebook page to promote it, so far. I realised that I had not even added any information to the author section of my book page on Amazon, so I did that. I did my Turkish homework last minute and was just about to leave to go to class when the post man came with a special delivery for me. My friend and colleague, Dagne, had sent me a really lovely gift of a purse, some homemade jewellery with shells she had collected from the beach and a lovely postcard. She had already told me that she was desperate to buy my book and I was still working on getting it available in Europe as a paperback – it was already available for Kindle/eBook everywhere. On the way to Turkish class the wind was starting to get up and it felt very cold again. Our Turkish class was good and I wished I had more time to actually practice some of what I learned. At 1pm I rushed back to attend a training Webinar about package holidays. I then had a call with Dagne to thank her for my rather lovely gift, before shovelling down a salad and running off to Fat Club. There, I was obviously disappointed to find that the 300 syns I had consumed this week, had resulted in me putting on a whopping 1.6kg (3.5lb). Because my measurements were so promising, I wasn’t overly bothered about the huge weight gain and was confident I could get it back down to target again.

After finishing work, Edna and I were excited that Nanny Kay was popping over for a natter and some dinner.
Nanny Kay decided to drive over as the storm and blustery weather had started – cycling would not have been sensible. We had a good catch up with cups of tea and it’s always lovely to talk to Nanny Kay. She’d been away and catching up with friends so there was lots to get through while Edna got some fuss. We decided to order a takeaway for delivery from Simple. Onur, is the owner and chef of this rather lovely restaurant, located near Migros and Mimi’s, in the corner of the square. I really enjoy Onur’s food and he does some fantastic noodle dishes. We decided to order one each of the beef and the chicken noodles, I asked for it without chillies (as I’m allergic) and it came delivered to the door very swiftly. I thought it was well presented in the boxes and it cost a total of 680 lira (£14.26) for both of us. We both thought it was absolutely delicious and I would definitely recommend it, if you’re in Dalyan.

Gratitude List
1. Not being too concerned about the weight gain this week
2. Gifts from my lovely friend and Resort Experts colleague
3. Nanny Kay and the Simple takeaway.

Dalyan – 10th March

On Monday 10th March I awoke to a message from The Aussies that my book had arrived in Australia and Greg had sent me a selfie – the first one I received. He was excited to be the first person in Australia to read it, Amanda would be reading it after him. It felt so good to have friends’ support, particularly ones who travel a lot and who we met in the place most of the chapters describe. I was a bit nervous but excited to know what they thought of my ramblings. I had now sold around 20 books and I was looking forward to hearing the reviews.
To distract myself, I started my residency renewal preparation and had decided to save money and do it myself instead of using an agent, which can cost up to £250 on top of all the other things needed. After breakfast oats and banana cake and a cup of tea, I went off to the bank to get 6 months’ of bank statements printed out to show I had put in the required amounts to my Turkish bank account. The rules only asked for 33,156 lira (£705 approx at today’s rate) for the last 3 months but I had been putting in a little more, just in case.
On the way back from the bank I called at the shop and bought the following, prices in lira;

Migros Supermarket
1 plastic bag 0.50
Chocolate biscuits 19.00
Light yoghurt 28.12
Sweetcorn 32.50
Cheese spread 34.90
2 tins tomatoes 35.90
Mixed beans 39.95
1kg chicken breasts 156.10
2 packs of mozzarella cheese 199.80
Total spent 546.77 lira (£11.61)

Nanny Kay popped round for a cup of tea and Edna was beside herself to have a visitor – her first in the 2 weeks that I had been looking after the dogs. She wouldn’t leave Nanny Kay alone and even kept fetching her a toy to play with and throw for her. It might have been because I had treated us to biscuits, which Edna was not used to.
In the afternoon, in between work enquiries, I went through all of my bank statements to check that each month had more than the required amount in. March had in the exact amount right now but more was due to go in this week. I was so pleased I had managed it and was so hoping that I would get granted my 2 years renewal this time. They had changed the rules the day after I got my 6 month renewal last time and I had been so gutted to have missed out. I spoke to Captain Caveman who was in Sheffield and was suggesting I might want to consider asking an agent to do the residency to make sure that it would definitely get done on a 2 year basis. I explained the costs of the insurance was already going to be a lot and I should save money. I got in touch with Aytaç Saraymine at Saraymine Insurance Agency, as well as the one I already had 6 months left of my policy with, to get quotes for a 2 year policy as required for the residency application.
For dinner I had roasted vegetable and feta style cheese with pasta and it was really lovely. I then joined a Lisa Johnson live Q&A session to hear her answer any questions about her and her business.

Gratitude List
1. Seeing Nanny Kay
2. Knowing that I had managed to get the required amount of money in to my Turkish bank account for the last 6 months – it had not been easy after losing my job.
3. Lisa Johnson’s Q&A session.

Dalyan – 11th January

Even though it was my birthday on Saturday 11th January, I had made the decision not to celebrate it. I had a half finished handy travel tips book that I had been wanting to finish for ages, but it always took a backseat. I decided today that I would turn my phone on silent, take the day off work and get it finished. I no longer wanted to make it perfect and decided that I would do a series of them, meaning I could do short books which readers would be able to read quickly and even take on holiday with them.
I had gorgeous oranges and pink grapefruit on my doorstep so I had picked them and made juice which was so good. I had cheese spread on bread for breakfast and then took Lady C on a walk. I cracked on with the ‘You Can’t Shit Yourself on a Bicycle……and other handy travel tips’ book and got quite far. I didn’t stop for lunch until 2.30pm when I had a feta cheese salad with my overpriced lettuce. I had the slow cooker out and made a very quick and easy dahl for dinner. I spoke to my parents who wished me a happy birthday and then I spoke to Captain Caveman who later sent me photos of Whernside and Pen-y-gent with snow on. I think he was just about getting used to how cold it was in the UK. When I came off the phone I had a delivery from good friends, some flowers, Dido chocolate bars and a birthday card – which I thought was really sweet and made my day.
After finishing all the chapters of the book, bar one chapter that needed changing, and taking Lady C out for a walk, I decided to sit and watch a film on Netflix as a break from my screen. I chose badly; ‘Mother of the Bride’ wasn’t funny and not my thing at all so I decided to watch a documentary next; ‘Avicii – I’m Tim’ was really good but rather sad, obviously. I got an invite to Nil Lounge tonight for the Cat Paws charity night. I politely declined as I was doing my best to be disciplined with my time. The Aussies were soldiering on too and had a barbecue which I also declined as I wanted to concentrate on getting the book finished. By this time it was raining but weather doesn’t stop a group of Aussies having a barbecue. I’d also been invited to Duble for birthday celebrations which we had already postponed too.
My lentil and chickpea curry was rather tasty but I didn’t even have a drink on my birthday. I did watch another film that was mildly entertaining called Carry-On. I went to bed without setting an alarm as I had nowhere to be tomorrow and knew I’d wake up early anyway.

Gratitude List
1. So many birthday wishes, plus cards and gifts
2. Fresh tasty food
3. Book Day – at last.

Dalyan – 27th & 28th December

I had another day ‘in the office’ on Friday 27th December and Captain Caveman helped me turn our spare room in to my new office. We took a table from one of our balconies to the spare room and put it under the window. The room overlooks a new building which was still being worked on but it did have sun coming in through the windows. We used a spare wooden dining room chair but Captain Caveman thought it needed a bit more support on my back. He used a jacket he was leaving in Dalyan to cover the back of the chair and it was super comfy. I cracked on with work, while Captain Caveman went to the barbers for a haircut and shave. He looked like a new man when he got back!!
At 12.30pm we walked over to Jamie’s to say hi to Norman and Edna before Jamie, Captain Caveman and I had a trip to Fethiye and Göcek. Edna was excited to see us, as always Norman was not particularly interested. Jamie wanted to take advantage of the wine in Göcek which Janet and Ian had introduced us to, so we went there first to pick up wine. Captain Caveman decided it would be a good investment for him to buy more wine and so we also bought 12 more bottles. This time, we chose our preferred wines and bought 4 each of the Gamay, Merlot and the Cabernet Sauvignon at 150 lira (£3.40) per bottle so a total of 1,800 lira (£40.82) – an absolute bargain! We also called to collect something in Fethiye then headed back to Dalyan. That evening, Captain Caveman cooked some pasta for dinner and we had more wine!!

I had several plans for Saturday 28th December; get up early to go to the market, work until midday, go to the beach for the afternoon, clean our own house and go shopping. The weather was cold and cloudy and didn’t look like it might stay dry enough for a beach visit today. So instead, Captain Caveman went dogging and I worked, we didn’t bother with the market. As Captain Caveman was leaving in a few days he thought it was pointless to get anything from the market and we could make do this week. I worked through some travel guides for top things to do in Vietnam in Hanoi, Sapa, Ha Long Bay, Ninh Binh, Hoi An, Danang, Hue, Ho Chi Minh and Phu Quoc. I was becoming so much more aware of other Travel Agents not promoting Phong Nha in their Vietnam itineraries and trying to shove the whole country in to one short trip – which was too rushed and unreasonable. I absolutely loved my new office views and the skies were very atmospheric. The AC in that spare room certainly made the room very cosy and I thought I might move in to that bedroom when Captain Caveman left, if the nearby building work wasn’t too disruptive.
I finished work for a soup and cheese on toast lunch with Captain Caveman then suggested that we go do the shopping. Here’s what we bought, prices in lira:

BIM Supermarket
Salt 6.25
Carrots 14.75
2 Dido chocolate bars 27.00
Atom dip 29.50
Aubergine and tahini dip 29.50
Toilet rolls 39.00
Mushrooms 44.75
Fairy washing up liquid 74.75
15 eggs 75.00
Total spent 340.48 (£7.72)

Migros Supermarket
Hummus 39.75
Total spent 39.75 (90p)

After unpacking the shopping and putting it away, I suggested we check out a café/bar I had been meaning to visit. O Filo is a lovely little place with a good selection of craft beers so we decided to treat ourselves to a beer each, I also wanted to suss it out for a place to work from if I fancied ‘working from home’ somewhere in Dalyan. It was ideal for that, although I wouldn’t be splashing out on craft beers until the money was rolling in quicker. My honey and pepper beer was really good and Captain Caveman chose a nice Gara Guzu Red Ale. We paid 500 lira (£11.34) for 2 craft beers and that included a discount, but I would definitely recommend it for a really nice place to sit and enjoy a quiet drink. As we were walking back we noticed Penny & Phil were in Tez Bar and so we decided to see if we could join them for a drink. It was lovely to catch up and I got to cuddle their dog, Caramel, too. It cost us just 440 lira (£10) for our 2 drinks each and then we had to leave as we needed to get ready for tonight’s party. We had been invited to The Aussie’s for a BBQ at their villa and we decided to take a bottle of wine to drink. It was a good job I had given myself permission to eat and drink whatever I liked without taking note as I ate so much delicious food. I had lots of bread, köfte, some salad items and I even had Australian fairy bread. If you’ve not had this before it is white sliced bread with butter (in this case Lurpak) and topped with coloured sprinkles (hundreds and thousands, I think we call them?). It started raining but, in true Aussie style, that did not put anyone off and we continued as Captain Caveman went on to gin. Amanda and Greg were so kind to have also brought us some gifts; 3 lots of high factor great quality sun cream, Lurpak butter and some Shapes crackers. It was a great night and we walked home quite merry (again), despite knowing we had to be up early for the Sunday Walk tomorrow.

Dalyan – 9th & 10th September

I’d been invited to join the weekly boat trip to Köyceğiz market on Monday 9th September and had contemplated taking the day off work, if Gayle & Neil had fancied going. They had decided they would have a relaxing day by the pool as they had the complex to themselves and they were both booked in for a massage at Mimis later on. I had a glass of juice and some fruit for breakfast and then noticed left over pizza and garlic bread which I had forgotten all about. I worked all day and was enjoying the peaceful atmosphere as I had a bit of a hangover. For lunch I decided that fried rice with mushrooms, onion and sweetcorn would sort me out a bit. In the afternoon, I ate fresh figs with grapes and a plum, thinking they were syn free – I would later find out they weren’t. I didn’t finish work until gone 7pm, had cheese spread on toast and finished off the rest of last night’s mushroom pizza. I met a friend at Kaunos tea gardens at 8pm for a tea then I walked via the shop to buy a few items, prices in lira;

Migros Supermarket
Cheese spread 29.50
Quark 29.95
Glass container 32.95
Total spent 92.40 lira (£2.08)

I was needing 2 of the items so that I could make my overnight oats for breakfasts again as I’d got in to the habit of having bread again, for convenience.

I was up early on Tuesday 10th September because I wanted to get some work done and then have time for other things. I had a bit of a feast for breakfast. I had overnight oats with Quark and frozen berries, fresh figs, plums and grapes. It was so good and felt nice to be back on some sort of healthy eating regime again. I had already had 280 syns this week and it was Fat Club tomorrow so I was still optimistic for a small loss in weight.
Mid-morning we had a power cut so I decided to make myself a pasta dish for lunch.
I’d been working on an idea for a book of travel tips, based on my own amusing experiences, and had found it quite difficult to design the front cover of the book. I had no spare cash to pay anyone professional to do it, so I’d decided to do it myself on Canva. I didn’t think it was that good so I sent it to a select few friends, Captain Caveman, my sister and my Mom. In general, the response was surprisingly positive and most people said they would buy it. I continued to set out my page headers and researched a little about the ways to self-publish and costs involved. I thought by doing this book, I could generate some income to be able to do a more professional one on the next one.
For dinner I had lentil, tomato and onion soup with buttered wholemeal bread. I went to bed early but I couldn’t get to sleep. A storm came, the lightening was very bright and the rain unexpectedly heavy, going on for several hours throughout the night.

Dong Hoi to Danang – 21st June

My train to Danang on Friday 21st June was due to leave Dong Hoi at 7am. By 6.20am I was outside Dolphin Hotel, having had a lovely sleep, waiting for my Grab taxi. The fare was 41,000VND (£1.26) and took less than 10 minutes. When I got to the train station, I found out that the train was delayed by about an hour. I was meant to be arriving in Danang at 12.30pm so I was glad I had leftover pizza for my journey.
At 8am I was waiting on the platform for the SE1 to arrive. I was in Coach 1 and had Seat 6 booked which had cost Captain Caveman 257,000VND (£7.90) – not bad for a 5.5 hour journey.
On the first part of my journey I was sat next to a quiet Vietnamese lady who slept. Once we got to the next stop, she got off and a couple with a kid got on. By 11am the train was rammed and chaotic, every passenger competing for who could watch silly reels on there phone the loudest. The child behind me started climbing on the chairs and making strange and loud noises which eventually tipped me over the edge!
I had a proper Inbetweeners moment!!! It was only after I’d loudly told the kid to shut up and tutted that I realised he was deaf and had special needs!!! Within minutes I was sat next to the Mom, instead of the Dad!!! They switched seats in disgust and the kid was being even louder!

By 2.30pm, just a couple of hours later than expected, I was off the train and walking to a cafe where I could order a Grab taxi from. The taxis at the station have been known to rip me off so I decided, as I only had a couple of bags, I’d find somewhere down the road.
I went to Vevy on Hai Phong and ordered a peach tea for 33,000VND (£1) which was really good. I’d not eaten the leftover pizza as the train was that hot, I felt it might not still be ok to eat. I was hungry but decided to wait until I got to the hotel.

My Grab taxi from Vevy to the Han River Hotel was just 34,000VND (£1.05). The hotel room was located above a coffee shop called Han Riverine and there was a key box to collect the key from. All was straight forward and the room was spacious and clean. I put my bags down and had a bit of a check through my phone to see I had confirmation of our brunch booking for Sunday. I was excited to find we had been given a discount for being a regular customer. I was a bit peckish so I had some mangosteens and then spoke to Captain Caveman. It was raining in Phong Nha for the first time in a while which I was surprised about. Captain Caveman was out of the cave, he was getting ready for his Gala Dinner and had all my bags and suitcase organised as we had discussed. He paid the bill at Son River House, picked up Bluey and took her back to the Glass House. After I came off the phone I went down to the cafe to get something cheap to eat. I paid 42,000VND (£1.29) for what looked like a fresh croissant but, when I broke in to it, there was an egg and sugar filling. I scooped it out as best I could and ate the pastry bits. Unfortunately, I then had an incident back in the room where the bathroom door was locked from the inside so we had to get the owner out to unlock it with a screwdriver. I didn’t go out that evening as I was running out of cash but I did message Captain Caveman to check if he’d set off. I didn’t get a response and so I went to bed. Captain Caveman was getting the SE9 train from Dong Hoi at 00.35am and was due to arrive early in the morning.

Phong Nha & Dong Hoi – 20th June

I woke up to my alarm at 6.30am on Thursday 20th June and got on with my packing. I had already started it and had separate piles based on final destination of each item. This was confusing but I was on it and needed to be done by 8.30am as I was booked in to have my hair done. During the night, Hoan had taken a bus from Xa Lai to Phong Nha and had arrived early this morning. She was back for the Phong Nha Vegan buffet and to see me off. She had already asked Chung to delay me so that I could eat a last lunch at the Vegan before my taxi to Dong Hoi.
I had a lot to thank Chung, Hoan and the girls from the Vegan for, so I agreed. It was down to them that I was leaving Phong Nha only 1.3 kg (2.9lb) heavier than when I arrived in March and I was grateful for all the amazing food I’d eaten because of them. I was only 1cm over my hip and waist target measurements, which I was pleased with. I still wasn’t a vegan convert but I was definitely a strong advocate of vegan dishes and eating less meat. These girls had become such good friends, especially since I’d become the only female Western woman living in town.
Once I’d finished packing, I took photos of each bag and started to move them to the Glass House, ready for Captain Caveman to do his thing with them tomorrow. I took my motorbike helmet, 3 bags and a rather heavy suitcase (with a patched up wheel) the few hundred meters to the house. By 8am, I was walking back to Son River House Homestay and it was incredibly hot and sunny. It was not the best day to have a hair appointment and an all you can eat vegan buffet but, I soldiered on. Chung moved the taxi from 11am to 1pm and we called ‘Onion’ to check she was definitely there today. I wasn’t bothered if she cancelled now as it meant I could go back to bed but she was going to meet me there. I let Chung know I was all packed and brought my bags down to reception. As is usual in Vietnam, when a friend goes away, she saw my full bags and gave me 4 packets of Banh Ep, a fragile pork, shrimp and spring onion cracker type product, to take with me. She had even had her ex boyfriend put them on the bus from Hue for her as she knows how much I like them. How sweet!

Once at the hairdresser’s, she cut my dry hair first while I sat in front of a fan. I was not entirely optimistic it would turn out well but the heat meant I barely cared about anything else but staying alive. Just 1 hour 15 minutes later I had the hair dye on and was told to wait an unknown amount of time for it to take. Next I got a hair wash, conditioner, face, head and shoulder massage and the blow dry I’d said I didn’t need in this heat. Onion was having none of me walking out of her establishment with wet hair! By 10.30am I was finished and my hair looked good.
I headed back to check-out, where Chung had prepared our bill for the 9 day stay at Son River House Homestay. Captain Caveman was going to pay the 3,352,000VND (£101.79) by bank transfer when he returned from the cave. This included 400,000VND (£12.15) for the meal last night which was absolutely delicious. We did get a friend’s discount which was much appreciated and I would definitely stay there again.

Our next stop was the Phong Nha Vegan which was amazing for my last buffet and farewell to everyone. I sat with Kim and her daughter while trying to get a blast of the cooler which was set to 39°C. The food was so good and plentiful but it was so hot I could barely take the heat. Kim recommended I try different dishes which was really nice and we even arranged for me to visit her in Saigon in a few days time. Back at the homestay, I said my goodbyes and Hoan arrived to give me going away gifts of a knitted mobile phone case, some sweets and a big bag of mangosteen. In the end, Chung moved my taxi for Dong Hoi to pick me up at 1.45pm as we were running late, and she promised to take Bluey over to the Glass House tomorrow. It was a sad, sweaty goodbye as I got in to the car and drove through Phong Nha with tears in my eyes.

The drive from Phong Nha to Dong Hoi on that afternoon was comfortable and cool. It took about 45 minutes and cost me 500,000VND (£15.26). The Minh Quang Hotel had already been booked up but the owner had very kindly recommended the Dolphin hotel as a nearby and suitable alternative. It was only 280,000VND (£8.54) per night and located really close to Tree Hugger. The driver couldn’t find it at first but once I was checked in and was in the room, I realised why it was called the Dolphin Hotel. It was located bang opposite the Dolphin statue on the river front. The lady who checked me in was really lovely and the room had the best display of tourist information, I’ve seen in a while. Unfortunately, it was a little wasted on me as I was only there until very early in the morning. I had a shower and a little rest, plus a bit of a repack to get the gifts in, before going out for a stroll.

I called in at Tree Hugger where I had a mint and lime iced drink and some veggie spring rolls while admiring the view with a fan on. It was really lovely and cost just 90,000VND (£2.75) which was definitely good value.

In the evening, I met up with Jack, Stu’s youngest son, for a last leaving drink and meal at Oregano. We drank a Huda beer, ate potato wedges and a Bolognese pizza, which we shared. We had 2 video calls with Stu who was in Ha Tinh doing a summer teaching job and was disappointed he couldn’t join us. The food, as always, was excellent and I’d learned they had wedges on the menu. I couldn’t eat it all so I took a couple of slices of pizza with me and Jack dropped me off at Dolphin Hotel on his way home. The cost of dinner for both of us was a very reasonable 250,000VND (£7.64).
Back at Dolphin, I finished the half bottle of red wine I’d brought with me, from last night, and got ready for bed. My alarm was set for early tomorrow morning as I was getting the train to Danang.

Phong Nha – 19th June

Wednesday 19th June was not only weigh day, but it was my last full day and night in Phong Nha. I had arrived in Vietnam 15 weeks ago and would be leaving after 4 months in the country, longer than I’d expected. I was up early so that I could be ready for an appointment before work and I did my measurements. My bust was the same as the previous week, I’d lost 1cm from my waist but had put 1cm on my hips. I made a note to get weighed later when I went to the vegan.
I cycled down to see ‘Onion’ the hairdresser as Captain Caveman had booked me in for a cut and dye at 8.30am. She is actually called Nghien but it’s kind of pronounced like onion and that’s what a couple of the older cavers had called her. When I arrived, it was already getting hot, there was no sign of her. I bumped in to a young girl who was wearing sunglasses, a mask and a hooded long sleeved coat. This ninja-looking female spoke a little English and told me her mom was in town having coffee with friends. I’d also messaged her to say I was there but the reply came to the daughter to return at midday. There was no way I could take the midday heat while being in the hairdresser’s building so I asked for the same time tomorrow. The daughter didn’t understand so I just left and said I would message. Tomorrow I was leaving to go to Dong Hoi before lunch so that might be a bit of a squeeze, anyway.
Disappointed, I cycled down towards The Villas and as I arrived Onion turned up saying I could cycle back to the hairdresser’s. By this time I’d already rescheduled my work and confirmed lunch with a friend. We agreed on tomorrow at 8.30am so I would just have to get up early.
I worked from The Villas for the rest of the morning and drank a lot of water as the AC wasn’t on yet. At lunch time I logged off as I had invited Khanh Linh to join me for a catch up. We shared a Momma D’s pizza and a garden salad which was very filling. A member of staff popped the AC on and looked confused as to why it wasn’t already on. I had to try the Pina Colada as it was 50% off those on Wednesdays. It was very nice and I had a lovely time with Khanh Linh, who bought me a gift of a pair of jelly shoes. When I tried them on I was surprised to find they fit very well, too. Khanh Linh, who works at Jungle Boss, had to get back to work and it was very hot and humid outside.
I also went back to work but finished before 5pm so that I could hurry back to Son River House Homestay for a shower. The plan was to be back at The Villas to meet anyone who was coming to help me celebrate my last night.

When I got back to the homestay, I decided to chance a full shower with a hair wash – this was a mistake. I was lathered up like a soapy meringue when the water went off! It took a while to get all the bubbles off me and, of course, Vietnamese hotel towels are rather small. I was 10 minutes late to my own leaving party and Chung, who was going to give me a lift, was busy so I cycled back down. René was already there and was a bit concerned he was going to miss me as he had guests back at Greenfield Ecostay who he had to get back to. Ngan, his wife, was in Hanoi and couldn’t join us. René had a drink with me and then left with arrangements to come back if work allowed. Maxime and his 2 daughters joined us, then Bich and Luc came for a drink and food and it was so lovely to catch up. I had also arranged to have a drink and some food at Son River House Homestay with Chung and Uy. It was also their 7 year anniversary. Manu from Victory Road Villas and the girls from Phong Nha Vegan were also meant to be coming to join the small party.
Manu saw René drive past on a motorbike so I cycled back after paying my 1,200,000VND (£36.45). This included breakfast, lunch for 2 of us, 2 smoothies, 4 cocktails and a bottle of red wine to take away.
Back at the homestay, I arrived to an empty seat where René must have been sat, a fresh beer with ice and a 100,000VND (£3) note under the glass as payment. He had obviously got tired of waiting for me and left – I was surprised not to have passed him as I cycled my little legs as fast as I could on Bluey. Manu didn’t arrive as he couldn’t find it, and the Vegan girls were too busy with customers to leave early. Chung was apologetic that the local chicken with sticky rice that I had ordered for us all to share, had been boiled instead of barbecued. I wasn’t, as it was so delicious – Ms My had done a lovely job and I opened the bottle of wine to share with Chung and Linh Giang. Once again, I was the only non-Vietnamese person at the table and we had so much fun. Eventually, Uy noted the date and redeemed himself of forgetting his anniversary with a romantic speech but I was more enthralled by Motthew IV. Chung had chopped up a couple of pineapples for us to share so a big, thirsty moth came to sample it. There was a cake, more cheers and drinks but I was in bed by 10.30pm. I still hadn’t packed for Danang, Dalyan or the UK. Tomorrow was going to be a bit disorganised and rushed.

Phong Nha – 18th June

We were awake early on Tuesday 18th June as Captain Caveman was off in to Son Doong and I said I would see him off before I started work. It was probably the last time I would see him this year in Phong Nha and I was feeling a bit sentimental about that. Captain Caveman doesn’t do emotional stuff so it was just another day to him but at least he posed for a photo while we waited for a coffee and a watermelon juice at Son River House Homestay. We agreed that I would travel by car to Dong Hoi on Thursday, he’d booked me a room at the Dolphin hotel for that night and a train for Friday morning to Danang. He would get the overnight train after his gala dinner on Friday night and see me in Danang on Saturday morning. We would have our final celebrations in Danang before I flew back to Turkey on Tuesday. We were all organised so that it would go smoothly. Captain Caveman took himself off for spicy fish noodle soup for his breakfast, probably to escape my emotional goodbyes and me still being upset about May, the dog. Chung could see I needed a bit of support and told me to come back to the homestay once I’d seen Captain Caveman off on tour from Ho Khanh’s.
I saw Mr Nghia who works on the porter team and is Ha’s (from Phong Nha Vegan) dad. He was holding Ai’s baby who is super cute and so I took photos. I also found a creepy crawly to match his Oxalis shirt which turned out to be poisonous and had a twin nearby! Luckily I moved one to the shrubbery but then it got moved again to further afield. We said bye and Captain Caveman got on the bus with the next tour group, who also didn’t get off for a photo.
Back at the homestay, I waited for Chung so that we could go to Phong Nha Vegan for brunch. I took photos of the Son River House Homestay menu which looked very comprehensive.

At Phong Nha Vegan, Chung had spicy noodle soup, I had Banh Canh and we shared some fresh spring rolls. Ha made me a mango and coconut smoothie which was so good. I would miss this a lot when I left. I decided to work in the AC of my room at the beautiful and peaceful Son River House Homestay for today.

That evening, after work, I cycled down to Phong Nha Vegan again. Tatas came to meet me and had to wait a while until I could leave to go out for dinner. We went to The Villas for our farewell drinks and meal. We had to make do with mojitos with it being a Tuesday as they were half price. We shared a veggie pizza with a bottle of red then took the wine back to mine so that we could finish off the night. Tatas paid the total bill as a farewell gift and we had a lovely night, it was a bit emotional as I had no idea when I would see her again, although we were hoping she could get a visa to come visit us in Turkey this winter. Tomorrow was weigh day and my last full day in Phong Nha, I’d had 303 syns this week so it wasn’t looking great and I had leaving drinks planned for tomorrow evening.

Phong Nha – 16th & 17th June

On the morning of Sunday 16th June I packed a lot of my stuff. Captain Caveman was due back later and would only have a couple of hours today and some of tomorrow for us to get organised for my departure. As we still didn’t know when Captain Caveman and I would be back in Phong Nha after this season, or what job either of us would be doing next year, I decided to take almost everything. I would have one suitcase to take anything I had still in Vietnam so I decided to put all the things I could live without in to a bag to give to Chung and Hoan. They could keep anything which they could make use of and give the rest to charity. It felt a bit weird not really knowing what would happen next year but I felt confident things would find a way of working out.
I worked from The Villas again and had a treat of beans on toast with a pot of tea for breakfast. For my lunch I had fresh veggie spring rolls and I was still working when Captain Caveman arrived at The Villas. He’d had a good trip but it had been incredibly hot, meaning the group had been out a little later. I updated Captain Caveman on my new job, he was pleased but we didn’t have long to chat as he was off to Chay Lap for his gala dinner. After finishing work for the day, I treated myself to a bottle of wine and some peanuts while I waited for Captain Caveman to return. When he arrived he ordered a pizza as the food at Chay Lap is still below par and he never eats there. I decided to try the ‘new to the menu’ cheeseburger, even though I’m not a massive burger fan.
Captain Caveman devoured his dinner and half the bottle of red wine, he was very hungry after his tour. My burger tasted very good but it was a bit chewy with it being beef. I let the manager know and she did say the Victory Road burger was better as it’s mixed with pork so that might have suited me better. Our total bill came to 890,000VND (£27) which included carrot cake. The Villas had started doing fresh cakes again and it did not disappoint! Maxime and his family were back in town to renovate the Nguyen Shack and had waited to say hello to Captain Caveman. It was almost 10pm when we cycled home, Captain Caveman was very tired.

Captain Caveman had the day time off on Monday 17th June but he still had some work tasks to do, of course. We were awake by 6am but his alarm was set for 6.30am anyway. The weather forecast said it was only 28°C but 83% humidity so it definitely felt hot and muggy. It also said it was going to be cloudy all day but the clouds had definitely not got that memo and it was scorching!
By 8.30am we had cycled to The Villas for me to crack on with work and later have brunch. I had my usual Pho and a smoothie but Captain Caveman had his favourite Eggs Benedict washed down with a Bloody Mary (which are usually 50% off on Mondays). Our bill came to 372,000VND (£11.30) and I didn’t notice at the time that the Bloody Mary was charged at full price of 180,000VND (£5.46). I said goodbye to Ben, as he was off to Mongolia tonight and would be away until the 29th June, when I would already be in Turkey.
While Captain Caveman got prepared for his next tour and his briefing tonight, I was thankful for a rest in the AC back at Son River House Homestay. By 3pm the humidity levels had dropped considerably but it still felt unbearable outside.
After work, and while Captain Caveman was at the Oxalis briefing, I went to Phong Nha Vegan. I was chatting with Ha when something truly awful happened. We heard a commotion down the road, towards town and, when I looked, I saw a woman in the street, a motorbike, something white on the floor and a few people gathered around.
I knew it as soon as I saw the white, it was May, the dog. He had been hit by a motorbike and the owner was trying to save him, I called Ha and we ran down. What happened next was quite upsetting so I won’t go in to too much detail. I felt for a heartbeat and little May was still alive. I called Chung and asked her to call Bom’s dad who is a farm vet and tell him to come quickly. She did and he said he was coming. The owner picked up May and was very distressed about the whole situation so we took him inside the gate. We both kept stroking and talking to him and willing him to pull through. Other dogs in the area were coming to check on May and I nervously kept them at a safe distance. The vet was really taking his time and I called several times for Chung to chase him. Ha and the others left me with the dog’s owner, who spoke no English and then May could fight no more. It was terrible and it looked like he had some bleeding from inside. I consoled the woman and we used Google translate to talk to each other and later her daughter. We lay May in a quiet spot in the garden and waited for her relative to arrive. Eventually, I left and having been strong for the owner, I had a little cry. The Vegan girls wanted to feed me but there was no way I could eat and I was conscious that I’d been holding May. I had a good wash but didn’t want to touch any of the tables at the Vegan and decided to call it a night. Our friend Dung was there having dinner and I asked him to come back and help me talk to May’s owner, which he did. It turned out her husband was a vet and there had been nothing we could have done to save May but at least he knew we loved him. I cycled to The Villas to meet Captain Caveman, with a takeaway snack of vegetable tempura which Hanh had insisted on making me. Once I’d calmed down and was getting through the shock, I ordered a Spaghetti Bolognese and shared a bottle of red wine with Captain Caveman. We paid 472,000VND (£14.33) which I didn’t think was bad. Our last night in Phong Nha together wasn’t the celebration it could have been, though.
Back at the homestay, I got some news to cheer me up; my friend, Briony, was going to be in Sheffield when I was, and had booked her flight from America. I ate the veggie tempura and then went to bed, still sad about little May, the dog.

Phong Nha – 14th & 15th June

I woke up at 7am on Friday 14th June, having had a lovely sleep in the bed all to myself. I went to The Villas for 10am, where I had a pot of tea and paid just 40,000VND (£1.21) for a good brew. I then had to scurry off to the Vegan as I said I’d practice English with the staff. I had a Bun Tron (a vegan rice noodle dish) while I was there and Ha asked if she could nip home to see her Dad. I agreed to hold the fort for her while she rushed off, only for her to come back with some sweet treats for me and the other girls. She had obviously wanted to go to get them as a surprise and it was really kind of her. One was a mung bean paste sweet which was not dissimilar to eating a stock cube and I’m glad I didn’t shove it all in my mouth at once.
In the evening, I went back to Phong Nha Vegan where it was so hot that Ha, the waitress, went for a swim in the river. I had tempura Oyster mushrooms with crispy sweet potato fries. It was like a vegan fish and chips and so good! I also met a couple of Vloggers from America who were enjoying the food and were very nice people. After 3 hours at the Vegan, I cycled back to Son River House Homestay and had an early night.

Saturday 15th June was an exciting day as it was the first day of a new part time job. I was doing some sales and marketing work for a friend. I went to The Villas to have breakfast and work there for the day, I find it the best place to work due to the location and the AC. Captain Caveman was due out of the cave tomorrow and didn’t even know I’d got, or started, a new job. I had my usual Pho Ga, familiarised myself with some spreadsheets and started to look at some content. I had a new friend join me while I worked, it was a moth sat on the glass door who I affectionately named Motthew the third. For lunch I had a margarita pizza with extra mushroom and I saved some to take home.
My tab for breakfast, lunch and drinks was 556,000VND (£17) which was particularly good value and I always enjoy the pizzas there.

By 6pm I was at Phong Nha Vegan having a laugh with Ha. I was meant to be having a swim with her but I had no spare clothes and the staff were too busy with their customers. While everyone was having a bit of a rest near the cooler machine, I spotted the Banh Canh lady. She comes by on her motorbike shouting ‘Banh Canh’ and sells her wares of noodles, eggs and sometimes veggies. I shouted Hanh from the kitchen and Ha from the hammock to come to buy some things. There was quite a crowd and the lady did a roaring trade. Hanh just bought the Banh Canh noodles for 10,000VND (31p).

By 9pm I was back at the homestay where Chung and the owner, Linh Giang, were waiting for me to have a drink to celebrate my first day at work. We ate juicy fresh watermelon and drank chilled red wine. I was introduced to Kim and her daughter, who were staying at Son River House too and we all had a good night together.

Phong Nha – 13th June

Captain Caveman went to eat fish noodle soup at the cafe next door to Son River House Homestay on Thursday 13th June, before his next Son Doong trip. It’s far too spicy for me so I said I’d meet him at Ho Khanh’s, where his trip departs from, once they have collected the guests and team. When I got there I said hello to Nghia, Yen and Sexy Quang as well as some of the porters. One of the aunties was there looking after a young child and the guests turned up early. Usually they get off the bus to have photos taken with Ho Khanh, the man who found the cave initially, but today this didn’t happen and I was asked by the staff where Captain Caveman was. It is very unlike him to be late but he was cutting it fine. I called and messaged him but no answer and I wondered if he’d snuck off for a cheeky last game of Bridge. He turned up a couple of minutes later and was a bit peeved that I was chasing him. We said bye and I cycled down to The Villas for my breakfast.

There I had my usual favourite Pho Ga and I tried a peach tea which was new to the menu. It was very nice and I got some writing done before deciding that it would be nice to have lunch at The Villas too. I opted for a bacon roll on freshly baked bread but without the egg and a pot of tea. It was so good and I really enjoyed the food.
I was just about to leave as Ben, the owner, arrived and we had a bit of a chat. He was concerned about what would happen when Captain Caveman and I left Phong Nha and was very aware that it wasn’t too far off that time. I was still toying with the idea of setting up my own company, perhaps with a view to incorporating some sort of travel company with Captain Caveman in the future. I paid 200,000VND (£6.04) for my breakfast and lunch (including the tip) and left to go back to the homestay.

While I’d been gone, the staff had asked if they could take the extra bed from our room as they had a full homestay tonight. This was great news for Chung that they were so busy and so she’d arranged to change the room around and I actually preferred it. I spent the afternoon sorting through all of my belongings in to piles; leave in Phong Nha, take to Danang, take to Turkey, and for Captain Caveman to bring to England.
That evening I went to the Vegan and it was very hot and humid, with limited staff and lots of customers. Luckily, my Vietnamese was getting better and Ha’s confidence in English was improving too. When I finished helping with the table of 14 Vietnamese diners, I ate fake pork with steamed rice and veg which was becoming a firm favourite. I was so hot that I had a lovely kumquat iced tea and a full fat Coke to drink.
I was tired when I cycled back to the homestay but unfortunately the new guests were doing karaoke and then the staff were talking until about 11pm so I watched Netflix on my phone.