Phong Nha – 16th May

I found Thursday 16th May to have more disappointment in it than I would have liked. I got up early and cycled to Oxalis to pick up the laundry. The 4kg bag cost 120,000VND (£3.71), I noticed it was badly folded and pretty creased. I cycled back to The Villa’s to get some breakfast and I was hoping for a relaxing day. Unfortunately, I was met by a disgruntled Manu who told me there was no food available today. All of the female staff, which includes the chef had gone off for a spa day in Dong Hoi. Manu told me he had been hoping for an easy day, as I drank a soda water and contemplated where I might get breakfast. Ben, the owner, arrived with a young apprentice and started eyeing up walls. He looked like he had big plans as he mentioned moving some furniture. As I decided I would cycle back ‘home’ with the laundry and go to Tree House for a fruit salad, Chung messaged Hoan and I to say she couldn’t go to the Vegan, as planned, because she had to deal with customers at work. She asked if I could be there to help the staff with English speaking customer queries so I had to take the laundry back in the direction I had already come. When I got there I ordered and scoffed the delicious vegan pho down, made by the owner. It was lovely and I started to feel a bit better for eating, especially as it was already late and very hot & humid. Hoan treated us all to a mixed fruit juice from her friend’s stall near the market and it was very refreshing. May, the dog from down the road, came to take shelter from the sun and insisted on some water and belly rubs.
I cycled ‘home’ in heat and managed to squeeze in a call with Ma & Pa who were now in Dalyan. As the time difference was only 4 hours it was easier for them to accommodate and they told me about their recent trip to Istanbul. It sounded like they had an amazing time with my sister and her husband on a tour with our Dalyan friend, Murat.
I rode Bluey back to Phong Nha Vegan at 6pm. It was very busy, so many customers with lots of questions and requirements, which I helped with. I also managed to wolf down a very tasty and hearty Banh Canh, which is a veggie noodle soup.
After a change in the weather, I hurried back to the homestay for another video call, this time with Adele. We were on the phone for well over an hour and we even spoke of a celebration ladies only boat trip for when I was back in Dalyan. I finally got to bed at about midnight and I decided not to set an alarm for tomorrow.

Phong Nha – 15th May

Wednesday 15th May was weigh day again and I was still trying to keep an eye on my weight and measurements. As Captain Caveman was off back in to the cave today, I hoped I could limit the alcohol syns a bit over the next 4 days. After saying bye to Captain Caveman, I took my measurements as follows;
Bust +1cm,
Waist +2cm,
Hips +1cm.
Having had 3 times the syn allowance in a week it was no surprise that I was over target on waist and hips now.
On my way to Phong Nha Vegan I called in to the pharmacy to buy some medication and use their iffy scales.

Pharmacy
Gofen 400mg ibuprofen 38,800
Total 38,800VND (£1.20)

According to the reading I was 1kg (2.2lb) heavier than last week so now I was 4kg heavier than my target. I still had 6 weeks left in Vietnam so I could hopefully achieve it. Captain Caveman and I were due to be in Sheffield in 9 weeks time too, for the first time in 2.5 years for me. When I arrived at the Vegan, which opens at 10am, everything was locked and no one was about. I messaged Chung and Hoan but neither of them were available and there was no shade.
I went to The Villa’s for breakfast where I had a fresh passion fruit juice, chicken noodle soup with extra lettuce and a pot of Jasmine tea and paid 120,000VND (£3.71).
My next stop was to meet Chung at Phong Nha Vegan for lunch and a chat, as she was now available. After sharing a Banh Xeo (Vietnamese rice flour pancake) with Chung and trying the fresh carrot and orange juice, it was time to cycle back, in the hot sun, to my homestay for a shower and a rest. I called in to the shop and got some treats;

WinMart Supermarket
Chupa Chups jellies 11,300
Peanut M&Ms 12,900
Snickers bar 19,400
Total spent 50,100VND (£1.55)

The new Snickers was a bit different but it wasn’t terrible.
When I arrived back at Phong Nha Vegan around 6pm, Hoan was there but there was no sign of Chung. She eventually arrived with a pizza box from The Villa’s which she had collected for us to share for dinner. Hoan had decided to treat us as a thanks for helping her. There was a vegetarian pizza with a half cheese on and half not – genius, vegan pizza for Hoan and veggie for the rest of us. It was delicious and we also enjoyed some hot herbal tea and some fresh spring rolls for good measure. I left the vegan about 9pm and cycled back to Phong Nha Homestay for a much needed rest. I was looking forward to a chilled out day tomorrow too.

Phong Nha – 14th May

As Captain Caveman was off back in to Son Doong on Tuesday 14th May, we were up early. Our last breakfast at Greenfield Ecostay was had together, Captain Caveman had omelette and I had pineapple pancake. Ngan also gave us mango and dragon fruit to eat and, of course, I had my last Yorkshire tea for a while. I said bye to Captain Caveman and sat by the pool catching up on some writing. On his way in to town he dropped my bag at my next accommodation and messaged to say I could check in from 11am. Around 10.30am I decided to say my farewells and thanks to René and Ngan, it had been one of the best stays we’d had. I’d already written a quick note of the things I would miss most about Greenfield Ecostay;

1. The owners, and their amazing hospitality.
2. Being in such a relaxed and tranquil place.
3. Mina, the extra shy and timid dog.
4. The delicious food that is so well prepared, varied and plentiful.
5. How clean the place is despite it’s closeness to nature.
6. The feeling of being so welcome and relaxed.
7. The swimming pool, probably the cleanest and best in Phong Nha.
8. The attention to detail that the owners and their staff make to ensure the most comfortable stay; from making sure the pool towels are ready to tidying and cleaning.
9. The wine/beers with René of an evening.
10. Being away from any stresses and feeling like we are on holiday in Captain Caveman’s home town.

I arrived in Phong Nha town just before 11am and decided to go to Tree House for an early lunch. I had a bottle of water, a fresh coconut and a cream cheese & salami sandwich for 150,000VND (£4.64). There was rather a lot of salami in the sandwich and the bread was a bit clumpy but I managed it, with the lettuce from the salad too.

At 11.50am I checked in to Phong Nha Homestay, for the second time of my trip. I was given the same room as the last time but this time there was no kettle in the room and 2 less pillows on the bed. I’d found out recently that some Vietnamese people believe that if you have a second pillow in bed you are inviting the dead ancestors to come to sleep with you!
I chilled out in the room for a bit and the weather forecast predicted rain that never came so it was hot and humid. I had fruitcake and cheese for lunch which was nice but a bit rich. More news came from Turkey which meant that if I wanted to go for long-term residency, it would be a few more years yet as I no longer qualified. The pool pump and filter had been fixed which we all had to pay our share of and would have been cheaper if we’d had it done last year.

I spent about 2 hours at Phong Nha Vegan in the evening and I had the fake pork with rice, vegetables and tempura Oyster mushrooms. It was delicious and I cycled back to the homestay for a much needed early night. Tomorrow was weigh day again and I knew it wasn’t going to be a good result, I’d had 331 syns this week, 130 of which were on alcohol. I needed to get back on plan while Captain Caveman was away and I was back to being on a strict budget.

Phong Nha – 12th May

We had a bit of a mini adventure on Sunday 12th May after we had our breakfast, of course. Captain Caveman had omelette with a coffee or 2 and I had Yorkshire tea with my mango and honey pancake. I’d asked a few friends to join us on our outing but most people were busy. Luckily for us, Veronika, Chung, Uy and the kids were free and would join us for lunch at the Pub with Cold Beer. Captain Caveman was toying with the idea of cycling but I reminded him how much he hates me moaning I’m too hot and it’s too far. He drove us there on Trigger and we decided to stop off at the Duck Stop. This is a brilliant tourist attraction where you get to feed ducks and get a natural massage from them. It’s really good and when a fellow caver came to visit she said it was one of the best days of her life (she’s only young)! We only stopped for a drink, not to see the ducks as we have been before and it was already getting busy with customers. We got to say hello to Quynh, the owner, and chill out a little before getting back on the motorbike to the Pub with Cold Beer.

There, Captain Caveman dropped me off so that I could order 2 chickens with rice, morning glory and peanut sauce before our guests arrived. He went to see Cuong at the Wild Boar farm just up the road. The pool at the Pub with Cold Beer was being cleaned and Quy told me it would be about 15 minutes until it was ready. Just 5 minutes later the French guests from Greenfield Ecostay arrived and I managed to tell them in French about the pool. It was ready in 10 minutes and everyone got in while I sat and chatted to Huong, their tour guide. Captain Caveman returned, Chung and family arrived closely followed by Veronika. We had a wonderful day, chatting with our friends, eating the delicious BBQ chicken and playing with the kids in the pool.

Back at Greenfield Ecostay we joined some German and Lithuanian guests who were very interesting and we had a really lovely dinner. Ngan had made cabbage rolls, pork, green beans, carrots and steamed rice and I washed it down with a glass of wine. Our Sunday had been great but tomorrow was our last night at Greenfield, Captain Caveman’s holiday was coming to an end.

Phong Nha – 10th May

On Friday 10th May Captain Caveman decided he was going to take us out for a meal that evening. At breakfast we let René and Ngan know we were off out and proceeded with breakfast. I had the noodle soup with greens and took out the fried egg for Captain Caveman to have. He had an omelette and we shared some fruit too. All of the guests at Greenfield Ecostay had gone out for the day so we had the place to ourselves and spent the morning in the pool or on a sun lounger. There were plenty of cows in the fields, making use of the rice harvesting residue.
Captain Caveman had said we weren’t having lunch again today and by 2pm René had brought him over a beer and me a glass of white wine as we chilled by the pool.

That evening Captain Caveman had decided on a meal at Phong Nha Farmstay so we cycled over for Happy Hour. We had a fair few 2 for 1 cocktails and ordered an olive and artichoke bread to share as a starter. Captain Caveman went for the Farmstay pizza, I had a traditional pork dish for our mains and the food was really tasty. Veronika joined us a bit later as she had been sat elsewhere with Deborah, hadn’t seen my message and didn’t end up having any food, when she joined our table. Deborah had the Nem Lui which is pork on lemongrass skewers made in to rice paper rolls with veggies and herbs. Here’s what we paid for our evening out, prices in Dong;

Phong Nha Farmstay
1 olive & artichoke bread 75,000
4 Gin & Tonics 100,000
4 Rum & Cokes 130,000
1 Pork clay pot 200,000
1 Farmstay 230,000
Total 735,000VND (£22.48)
Service 36,750VND
VAT 133,140VND
Total spent 838,320VND (£25.64)

The prices aren’t bad for 2 people with alcohol but it’s certainly not the cheapest place in town. As we were about to cycle home we saw Bich looking after someone’s baby and cycling about with it in the basket of a bicycle she was riding. The cycle home was hard work as Captain Caveman obviously raced ahead, as he does. When we got back we went straight to bed as it was already almost 9pm.

***Photo credit – some by Captain Caveman***

Bich with the baby

Phong Nha – 9th May

We were awake before 6am on Thursday 9th May but we didn’t have breakfast until gone 9am. Ngan offered us some traditional Vietnamese food called Banh Tet which is made from pork and rice. Due to overindulgence once before, I can no longer stomach it but Captain Caveman had some with fried eggs and tomatoes while I stuck to my mango pancakes and Yorkshire tea. For afters we had some of the watermelon from yesterday and bananas.

Captain Caveman drove us both in to town and I met Hoan at Phong Nha Vegan around 10.30am. She was keen for me to borrow one of the conical hats to keep the sun off me, it was red hot so lots of locals were busy harvesting and drying rice. I was given some watermelon to keep me hydrated and it was so sweet and juicy. Hoan and I had a good chat and then she made me a delicious Bun Tron, the rice noodle vegan dish which is one of my favourites. I took some photos of the Sen flower, the petals of which are used to make tea and left about 1.30pm to cycle back to Greenfield.

The sun was intense and I’d overestimated that I’d be able to do it in one go. I had to stop at Lotus, a hot and drippy mess, for a passion fruit juice and a bottle of water. It was 2.45pm when I got back and I was a mess, hoping for a sleep in the AC. That was not to be as René gave me the heads up that Multi and his daughter, Ella, were at the pool with Captain Caveman.
I did the decent thing and got changed in to my swimmers, had a cold shower by the pool and got in for a swim.

It was absolute bliss just to feel a bit cooler and then I messed about in the water with Ella, doing forward and backward rolls. When I got out, Captain Caveman, Multi and Ella did holding their breath competitions and Captain Caveman won every time but pretended Ella had won. It was just at this time that I got another update from Dalyan – the garden and complex was not looking good (again). I was beginning to wonder how hard it could be to just clean and tidy the complex. I messaged the agent and the pool and garden people who had already been paid to be doing this. It was very frustrating dealing with it from far away and with the time difference. René poured me a glass of wine, Captain Caveman got the fruitcake and cheese out and we shared it around. Ella was polite as she didn’t like the cake but Multi loved it, she loved the red Leicester cheese, though. We remembered to save some for Veronika as I’d promised her some. While the locals brought their rice in at the end of the day, we watched the sun set from the pool.
After a shower and change it was time for dinner where Captain Caveman and I had a rather tasty spaghetti with meatballs and I polished off the rest of that bottle of wine.

Phong Nha – 8th May

At breakfast on Wednesday 8th May, Captain Caveman asked René if we could stay until the 14th so we had another 6 days of staying at Greenfield Ecostay. I was very happy about this as the place is beautiful with everything we need. The only downside is that it’s is so far away from Phong Nha Vegan and I’m not insured to ride a motorbike. Fortunately, René and Ngan could fit us in and we could keep the same room.
As it was yet another weigh day, I took my measurements expecting to have put on weight, due to us being on holiday and eating such lovely food every day. My bust was still the same but I’d put 1cm on my waist and 2cm on my hips. Nevertheless, I was still under and on target for bust and hips with only 1cm over my waist target so I was happy with that. While Captain Caveman stayed at Greenfield playing Bridge, I cycled the 8km in to town in the heat. I decided to call at the new Pharmacy in town and get on the scales. I had lost 1kg (2lb) so that was good news, if the scales were correct. I also tried to buy Cerazette pills as I now didn’t have enough to last me until the end of June but the pharmacy didn’t have any. Here’s what I did buy and the prices in Dong;

Pharmacy
1 pack antihistamines 2,000
2 packs Himalayan salt sweets 13,000
Total paid 15,000VND (46p)

The antihistamines I got were the drowsy ones, which they warned me about, but I find they are good as well as cheap.
My next stop was the Vegan where I met My Linh for the all you can eat buffet. It was so busy and we had to share a table inside. The food was incredible, as always, and for 49,000VND (£1.50) it is an absolute bargain. The buffets are only held on the lunar full and half moon dates, or thereabouts, but I try my best to attend so I can try any of the new dishes too.
My Linh invited me to her homestay afterwards so I went to Green River Cosy Homestay 2, just around the corner from Phong Nha Vegan. She wanted advice about some changes at her already popular homestay which mainly caters for backpackers in dorm rooms. The place was nice and I sat and chatted for quite some time. I also saw the place next door called Cherish Homestay which is owned by a family member of her’s.

It got quite hot in the afternoon so I went to The Villa’s for a pot of tea instead of cycling back to Greenfield. I stayed there most of the afternoon and ended up having a Margherita pizza which was great. While I was sat having a peaceful afternoon, a Scottish woman came in, ordered a drink and proceeded to watch Baby Reindeer on her phone at a very loud volume. What is wrong with people!? I moved outside as far away as I could get and enjoyed chilling on a sun lounger until it was time to leave. Here’s the prices from the menu, in Dong;

The Villa’s
1 soda water 25,000
1 pot of tea 50,000
1 Margherita pizza 150,000
Total 225,000VND (£6.91)

I cycled back to Phong Nha Vegan, Captain Caveman and Tatas arrived and had food together. Tatas had a passion fruit juice and some fresh spring rolls, then ordered extra chillies. Captain Caveman ordered a mango & coconut smoothie with a vegetable tempura and also asked for fresh chillies to go with it. I didn’t eat anything with them as I had already had the pizza earlier. As I was chatting with the staff, Tatas and Captain Caveman left before me and I met up with Captain Caveman at The Villa’s around 9.30pm for a quick cold drink; 1 Coke was 25,000VND (77p) and 1 Huda beer was 35,000 (£1.08). Manu, the manager, invited us to have a drink with him but as Captain Caveman was driving we said to do it another time. Phong Nha was no longer like the old days where we would be drinking until late, most places close by 10pm and locals were in bed very early. I left Bluey at The Villa’s and got a lift back with Captain Caveman, I’d have to come get her tomorrow.

Photo credit – some taken by Captain Caveman

Phong Nha – 6th May

Monday 6th May was a little unpredictable and we were awake at 6am. The weather forecast looked a bit iffy; high humidity but cooler temperatures. We were having an early breakfast, Captain Caveman had his usual omelette and I had one of my usuals of pineapple pancake. I still felt rubbish with the cold and an additional bad stomach so I had a lay down after breakfast in the AC.
Just before lunch time, Captain Caveman and René were convinced it wasn’t going to rain so we decided to venture out. I’d already said to Hoan and Chung that I wasn’t feeling well enough to cycle to the Vegan today too and they said they might pop over to visit me tomorrow. Captain Caveman borrowed a bicycle and I took Bluey to Lotus restaurant. I had a lemon juice and Captain Caveman ordered a shandy. It started to look a bit black o’er Bill’s mother’s as we decided to order some lunch. Captain Caveman chose a pork and lemongrass dish and I went for a chicken Luk Lak, an old favourite. As we were eating, the rain started to come down with a vengeance and we had to declare ourselves stranded. We attempted to get the bill a few times when we thought the rain was easing off but alas we had to have a cocktail. The White Russians were very good and stronger than I’m used to so I got extra milk in mine. Because of the continued rain, we spent about 5 hours at Lotus restaurant, where the staff really looked after us. Here’s what our bill looked like after submitting to the cocktails;

1 7Up 15,000
1 Lemon juice 25,000
2 Huda beers 40,000
1 Pork Taste 80,000
1 Chicken Luk Lak 90,000
2 Cheesy garlic bread 100,000
12 White Russians 840,000
Fruit plate – free
Total 1,190,000VND (£37)

Eventually, the rain eased and we cycled back but only just with enough time to shower and change before dinner. Ngan had prepared spring rolls with salad, steamed rice and pork for dinner and the plate was massive. Captain Caveman had to help me out as I couldn’t fit all mine in. By 10.30pm I was in bed already suffering with a hangover and disappointed that I was now on 275 syns for the week!

Phong Nha – 5th May

I decided to try something different for breakfast on Sunday 5th May but I regretted it, slightly. The pork and rice noodle soup came with a fried egg on top and I don’t like eggs. Captain Caveman scooped it on to his plate and ate it but then my breakfast was a bit too greasy for me. I washed it down with Yorkshire tea and orange juice and then caught up on some blogging in the shade. Captain Caveman was now spending hours each day, playing Bridge and wearing his noise cancelling headphones. We didn’t have lunch again so by the time it was getting to dinner time I was very hungry. After saying bye to the couple we had met from the UK, Captain Caveman, René and I cycled to the Phong Nha Farmstay to meet Veronika for happy hour and Sunday dinner. Mina, the dog, followed a long as far as Elements where 2 dogs came out on the attack and she retreated off home. When we got to Phong Nha Farmstay, Veronika and her friend joined us and some of us ordered the happy hour drinks. The Sunday dinner was nice and the pork was tasty however the Yorkshire puddings looked like someone had forgotten to keep the oven door shut. Veronika shared some of her celebratory red wine and I also managed 2 happy hour rum and cokes. For afters I went completely off my diet as the dessert is included in the price and I had the chocolate brownie with ice-cream. Captain Caveman paid so I didn’t see the total bill after the service charge and VAT was added, but as a guide the roast dinner is 300,000VND (£9.20) per person. It includes a drink but we forgot to order ours as we had the happy hour drinks, then the wine. It had made a nice change to go out, especially as I had never seen René anywhere else but at Greenfield Ecostay.
We cycled back in the dark, I had brought my light which I was glad about. The small roads to Greenfield are a bit off the beaten path and my eyesight only works in daylight, unlike Captain Caveman’s. We had a last drink at the bar before going to bed, I was still coughing and full of sniffles.

Phong Nha – 4th May

It was Captain Caveman’s 6th day off on Saturday 4th May and he had another week off due to a schedule change. This was so fortuitous and great for Captain Caveman to relax, even if it did mean he was playing so much Bridge we hardly spoke to each other. It was also Tatas’ day off but she was sick so couldn’t come out to play, as we’d hoped. I had a full blown cold again which was probably as a result of getting caught in heavy rain 2 days ago. There was a storm in the early hours and morning which was quite bad and when we came downstairs, Veronika had already gone back to her duties at the Phong Nha Farmstay.
For breakfast I had a pancake with mango and my Yorkshire tea. Captain Caveman had his usual and decided we were eating too much so let René know we didn’t want to eat lunch today. I wasn’t as keen on this plan as it meant I would go from 9.30am to 6.30pm without eating. I had a cold anyway so I took it easy and let the Vegan ladies know I wasn’t cycling in today.
By lunchtime I had some hassle to deal with, regarding Captain Caveman’s pool situation in Dalyan. It transpired that something was broken and needed fixing so I got in touch with the Agent and Maintenance contacts to see if we could rectify the situation any quicker.
I had a swim before sunset and got ready for dinner, still feeling a bit unwell. For dinner Ngan had prepared fried rice with squid for everyone else, but I’m allergic to it. I was served a lovely alternative of prawn and vegetable noodles in a generous portion which I really enjoyed. I also had some white wine and Captain Caveman had beers.

Phong Nha – 3rd May

As it was the weekend and I’d only had 60 syns so far this week, I chose pineapple pancakes for breakfast on Friday 3rd May. Captain Caveman had already eaten earlier as I felt under the weather and had a little lay in. He was in the pool when I got down but he had a plan that he needed to go back to Phong Nha. I took that as a good opportunity to call in at Phong Nha Vegan so Captain Caveman said he’d give me a lift on the motorbike and off we went. Just before 11am, we had to stop at the pork shop and take shelter as a downpour came. It didn’t last long and I soon was at Phong Nha Vegan where I only stayed from 11.30am to 1pm. May, the dog from down the street, was there getting some attention from a customer as he loves some fuss. On our way back, we called at Lotus restaurant and met Multi who I shared Lotus tea with from a cute tea set and Captain Caveman had a shandy. Captain Caveman and I shared a beef Luk Lak which was very tasty for our lunch as I’d not eaten at the Vegan today.
We couldn’t stay long as Veronika was on her way to Greenfield as she had some time off from teaching the grandchildren. It stopped raining long enough for us to get back and have a swim, Veronika arrived and the 3 of us had a beer. She decided to get a room and stay over when the weather looked a bit wet again and we opened a bottle of white wine. Ngan and the team had arranged an amazing dinner for tonight- a BBQ chicken with accompaniments; 2 different types of rice, pork, peanuts, chips, fresh spring rolls, green beans and salad. It was really good and one of the best BBQ chicken platters in town. We had a really lovely evening and a few frogs joined us to shelter from the rain. Guests from York and Peterborough had become our new friends and we enjoyed sharing some great laughs together before they had to move on to their next destination.

Phong Nha – 1st & 2nd May

Another relaxing day was had by Captain Caveman and I on Wednesday 1st May. I’d been away from Dalyan for over 7 weeks now but we were looking at the option of me staying in Vietnam for another 2 months. I still didn’t have a flight booked but my parents, sister and brother-in-law would be on their way to Istanbul tomorrow. I was missing Dalyan and my friends there, a few of which had kept in touch which was nice. I was definitely missing Fat Club and the accountability it gave me although I was still trying my best to track everything and make sensible choices. This week I’d only consumed 208 syns, more than 100 less than last week, and only 78 on alcohol. Today was weigh day and the 8th Fat Club I’d missed but I took my measurements. I had lost 3cm from my bust, 1cm from my waist and 4cm from my hips. I was pleased because I was under or on target for all of my measurements now. I decided I would find some scales when I next went in to town as it was almost a month since I’d got weighed.
At 8am it was 33°C and it didn’t feel unbearable as we popped our swimmers on to go down for breakfast. I had veggie noodle soup with extra greens and a cup of Yorkshire tea, Captain Caveman had an omelette with plenty of coffee. We spent the morning by the pool but at noon I got some bad news; our tenants back in Dalyan (and Jamie’s friends from his home town) were complaining about Captain Caveman’s apartment. The pool there wasn’t ready, as promised, the sunbeds and decking areas were untidy and someone on the complex was feeding lots of cats. Jamie had messaged me to tell me of his friend’s complaints with photos and to inform me that the pool wasn’t even full of water yet. He said it was hot there and they would not be happy to be without a pool when it was promised. Just what we needed, especially when I had been told by our pool and garden guy that it would be ready in plenty of time. I messaged the agent and our pool and garden man with the complaints and photos. I also let Amanda and Greg know as they had guests renting their place downstairs. Captain Caveman went in the pool at Greenfield, while I continued to try to sort all the issues out in Dalyan.
We had lunch at Greenfield which was a really nice beef and vegetable stir-fry (without chillies for me). I eventually got some time to myself and for a swim before going back to the room to speak to a friend. Unfortunately, she had some bad news about her health, and she needed surgery. This meant that her plans to come visit us would be delayed or cancelled.
In the evening, Captain Caveman drove us both in to town via the pharmacy. They had a set of old style weighing scales and I got on to find I was the same weight as when I last got weighed. I was still 3.3kg (7.7lb) heavier than when I last got weighed on Carol’s scales though, which I wasn’t convinced was true. I went to Phong Nha Vegan for 2.5 hours and the chef made me Com Suon which is fake pork with steamed rice and vegetables. She added a couple of spring rolls and I gave one to the waitress. The food was delicious and very filling. We left at 8.30pm and drove the 8km back to Greenfield as I had a video call booked in with Ma & Pa. I had one glass of wine at the bar and left Captain Caveman having a beer with René while I did the call. My parents were excited to be going back to Turkey and had a week in Istanbul before heading to Dalyan. It was good to see their happy faces as Ma got the hang of the camera angle this time.

We had the same breakfast as yesterday on Thursday 2nd May at Greenfield Ecostay. It was a bit muggy so I also drank a litre of water and we shared some mangosteen. While Captain Caveman played Bridge on his iPad, I cycled in to Phong Nha by myself. This was great as it meant that Captain Caveman had not been in to work on his day off for 3 whole days and it was doing him good. I spent a couple of hot and sticky hours at the Vegan with the girls and a couple of dogs where I had the amazing fresh spring rolls. I took half of them with me when I left as it looked like rain may come. At 4pm I had a video call scheduled in with Vanessa which I wouldn’t have time to cycle the 8km back for in time. We had already had to move it twice because of me being unavailable so I decided I would call in to The Villa’s and call from there. I mentioned to Vanessa a storm was looking likely and that I couldn’t speak for long. I had a soda water and a cheese toastie as I was peckish which I ate while on the call. It was good to catch up but we had to cut it short at only 34 minutes, for me to attempt to get back before the rain.
Of course that did not happen and I got absolutely soaked to the skin. I tried to take a short cut and ended up pushing Bluey up a muddy hill and, for the first time in weeks, I felt cold.
When I got to Greenfield, looking like I’d just got out of the shower with my clothes on, I should have gone to have a hot shower and take my clothes off. I didn’t, instead I joined Captain Caveman, Multi and René at the bar with a generous glass of red wine and then shared the fresh spring rolls with the guys. I finally showered and noticed my thighs were chafed from cycling in the rain in flimsy shorts. I ended up drinking a bottle of red wine and ate my delicious dinner. Ngan had prepared meatballs with veggies, steamed rice, peanuts and beef Lalot with water melon for afters and I really enjoyed it.

Phong Nha – 29th April

I woke up to a dead Motthew on Monday 29th April, the creature lay lifeless on the floor near the door. Captain Caveman and I didn’t have time for breakfast as we had to get packed and ready for a wedding. We were checking out of the very lovely Highway 20 Homestay as Captain Caveman had made arrangements for us to stay at a homestay with a pool. I was glad as the temperatures were certainly hotting up and a swimming pool would be so nice.
We got dressed for Nhi’s wedding, me in a floaty red dress and Captain Caveman in his stork shirt which he had made in Saigon. Mr Toan, the Oxalis driver, is Nhi’s dad so Captain Caveman was keen to show up despite the horrendous heat. We parked our bicycles outside Mr Toan’s house and walked down the lane to the tent/gazebo structure in the field. It was massive and there was a queue to get in as we popped money in an envelope then shook a lot of hands with bride, groom and all the family. Everyone had scrubbed up very well and Mr & Mrs Toan looked so proud of their daughter, who is beautiful and clever.
Of course, Captain Caveman was beckoned over by the Oxalis lads to sit next to Mr Tu. As I’d been brushing up on my Vietnamese a bit I was able to greet everyone and ask how they were, including the pianist guy who I sat next to. All was going well, although I was sweating profusely, until someone removed the cellophane from the squid. For some reason I could smell it and I started to feel quite unwell. I could only keep sipping water and trying not to vomit everywhere and Captain Caveman was a bit concerned I would have to leave. I couldn’t leave as at 11am the ceremony was starting and I had to focus. I ate a few pieces of pomelo and sipped water but I was feeling really awful, like I might pass out.
By 11.04am Nhi and her new husband were on the stage with the families doing the obligatory red champagne rituel and I was dodging any food passed my way. Captain Caveman soldiered on, taking one for the team with all the food and beers. Many men came to do cheers with Captain Caveman, including one guy who gave him a kiss. When I asked who he was, Captain Caveman said he had never met him before! Vietnamese weddings are so culturally different and highly entertaining but I was flagging. I managed an hour then noticed some people leaving so we also decided to leave.

Video of the bridal party entrance

Riding Bluey in a floaty dress was not ideal but I suggested we stop at Oxalis for me to use the loo and grab a cold drink. I ended up ordering some sweet potato fries and putting loads of salt on, maybe I was suffering from dehydration or heat stroke. The temperature had reached 41°C by 1.25pm with a ‘feels like 44°C’ as I sipped a Revive (a rehydration type drink). While Captain Caveman sorted out laundry, swapped his bicycle for the motorbike and did some general chores, I got changed at Oxalis then had a nap next to a fan until I started to feel much better.
By 4pm Captain Caveman and I had checked in to the amazingly beautiful and relaxing Greenfield Ecostay. The owners, René and Ngan, were very welcoming and they gave us a lovely double room, number 3. We had a fridge, a working kettle, cups, spoons, all the toiletries and a view over the garden and rice fields. The swimming pool was the cleanest and undoubtedly the best I’d seen in Phong Nha. After my heat related wobble, the swimming pool was the first thing we tested out and I was very impressed. We had an hour or so to relax but then I had promised to hang out with the girls at Phong Nha Vegan from 6pm.

One of the ‘lessons’ on the agenda tonight was allergies so Captain Caveman drove me over on Trigger, the motorbike. It was romantic as we drove along the rice paddies just before sunset.
At the Vegan we practiced some English and Vietnamese, tried to get to the bottom of peanut allergy procedures and I ate a very tasty veggie fried rice with an iced kumquat tea. The 8km journey back was not so pleasant as I had to cycle Bluey in the dark and it wasn’t as easy to remember the way. I needed a white wine and soda when I got back and René had some nice wine in the fridge.

Phong Nha – 28th April

Captain Caveman was due back out of Son Doong on Sunday 28th April so, after a bit of a tidy up in the new room, I headed out for the day. I’d slept with my head at the other end of the bed as there was a giant moth fluttering about near the window where the pillows had been. I’d affectionately called him Motthew and was happier with him than spiders, cockroaches or cicadas despite still being a bit scared. I went to The Villa’s and had a Pho Ga and a litre of water and they gave me hot water and milk for my Yorkshire tea bag. I spent some time there catching up on some writing and had french toast with bacon for lunch/second breakfast. It turned out to be the hottest day on record so far and I was certainly not in any fit state to be cycling very far. Captain Caveman was back by 3pm and came to join me about half past. He had his usual classic pizza with olives instead of mushrooms and I didn’t have a piece because I was being good.
While Captain Caveman went to his gala dinner I went to offer some very sweaty company to the girls at Phong Nha Vegan. They fed me the Mi Xao Gion which is a crispy vegetable ramen dish and was really tasty. I genuinely was loving the food at the Vegan and was finding my stomach enjoyed it even more.
After the Vegan, Captain Caveman and I met back up at The Villa’s for a quick drink before it closed, then cycled back for our last night at Highway 20. I introduced Captain Caveman to Motthew and he had to get rid of a cockroach in the bathroom, this time a black one and a bit smaller. We were also looking forward to another holiday within a holiday, a staycation, as Captain Caveman had quite a few days off from tomorrow.

Phong Nha – 27th April

At 8.45am on Saturday 27th April I was asked to move rooms at Highway 20 to accommodate a large group of Vietnamese who were coming for the Reunification weekend. Of course I was happy to move, especially as I had a second cockroach in the bathroom last night plus Jeff had brought a friend who had been even nearer to the toilet. Nga’s husband, Quan, had to go remove it as I was too scared. Nga said to leave my stuff and she would move everything for me, except for the bugs. I had arranged to meet Hoan and Chung at the river side coffee place, closest to The Villa’s. When I arrived, it was after 9am and I parked Bluey in the shade as it was already looking to be a very hot day. Lan and Minh Thuy (from The Villas) were also there and were having some drinks. I ordered a fresh coconut as I was only on 59 syns so far this week so I didn’t mind using 5 more. By 10.15am Hoan, Chung and I were back at Phong Nha Vegan and I was invited to join the staff lunch. They had papaya salad, winter melon and braised eggplant with chillies so the chef had made me a Bun Tron without chillies. It was very nice and I really enjoyed it but I knew I’d be hungry again later as the dish is very light.
As it was getting rather hot, Chung gave me a lift on her motorbike to pick up laundry from Oxalis. I paid 120,000VND (£3.69) and Chung gave me a lift to drop it off at Highway 20, where I picked up the key to the new room, then went back to the Vegan.
Later, I intended to cycle home but it was so hot and I didn’t have any suncream on, so I called in to The Villa’s. I had a mango smoothie, 1 litre of water, 1 pot of Jasmine tea and a vegetarian pizza for 260,000VND (£8). I took half of the pizza home with me as it was quite large. It was my 3rd consecutive day of no meat and no alcohol as I was determined to get back on the Slimming World plan this week.
That evening I was at the Vegan from 6pm to 9pm and it was busy again. As I was leaving though, I was given a kilogram of mangosteen as they know they are mine and Captain Caveman’s favourite fruit. I ate the rest of the veggie pizza for dinner and saved the mangosteen as Captain Caveman was due out of the cave tomorrow.