Dong Hoi – 9th June

Sunday 9th June was one of my favourite days in Dong Hoi (possibly ever)! My plan to meet Thuy yesterday had been moved to today and I was very much looking forward to seeing my old physiotherapist from when I tore my ligaments. Our first mission was to have breakfast at the pho place. We had underestimated how busy Pho Ly Quoc Su would be on a Sunday and they had run out of 2 of the Pho Bo dishes that Captain Caveman had chosen. We managed, it was still delicious and didn’t take too long to come, despite the busy restaurant. Back home Terror had got a little braver, wanting some attention even, so I had a game of football with him before we had to leave. He only has a wooden block, no balls, but he was happy with it.

Captain Caveman and I took a Grab taxi to Thuy’s new premises in Dong Hoi just before lunch time. There were lots of plastic shower shoes on the steps to swap our shoes for, but Captain Caveman’s feet were too big for any of them to fit. We waited in reception and Thuy came to meet us to show us around her very impressive physio business. I saw the lady who worked at the old place who used to make the heated wraps and she had helped me get to the toilet a few times while I’d been having the numerous hours of physio. She was really pleased to see us as we walked round, Thuy proudly showing us all the amazing rooms and facilities. When we had completed the thorough tour of the building, we had a few photos outside then Thuy called her driver to take us to her home. Since I’d last seen her, Thuy and her family had also moved house, and it was really nice and fancy. We were given some water, fruit and yoghurt while the rest of the family got ready. I met the children, Tin and Su, who I used to spend time practicing English with, before Covid. Tin was super confident and fluent in English now and Su was doing very well as Tin chatted on. Thuy and her husband had invited Captain Caveman and I to join the 4 of them plus Thuy’s sister for lunch. This time we were not going to the bird restaurant, which I was pleased about.

Thuy’s husband drove Captain Caveman, me, Thuy, her 2 kids and sister to Geminai restaurant. Captain Caveman and I hadn’t been for about a year and it had definitely had some changes and improvements. Because I’m fussy with food, I ordered my own Prawn Pad Thai but the rest of the adults ordered dishes to share. There was one pork dish with a bone in which looked impressive as well as duck and seafood rice dishes. Captain Caveman and I had a beer and the kids were allowed a Coke, they were exceptionally well behaved. Thuy wanted Tin and Su to pose for photos with us and Su was nervous so I told her she didn’t have to do anything she didn’t want to. She was super cute and gave me a hug and a kiss, which considering she was only 2 years old when I last saw her, was trusting. The lunch was amazing and I really enjoyed my food, as well as watching Captain Caveman don the plastic gloves to sort the meat out for the table.

I was not expecting Thuy to pay the entire bill, which was so lovely of her, but she also wanted to treat us some more. We stopped by the market so that she could buy some fruit, including our favourite mangosteens. Our next stop was the Phuc Long coffee shop where we were treated to a coffee for Captain Caveman and a peach tea for me. Tin and Su were super comfortable around us by this time and were chatting really well to me. I’m not usually a child person but I loved these two and they were so cute as well as very clever. On the ride back to Stu’s house we joked about the stinky squid drying. When we stopped to get out they all smelled the stench and didn’t get out of the car so I did hugs from inside. It had been an amazing day and I felt very lucky.

Having had such a lovely day, we decided to finish off the evening with another meal out. We walked both dogs (separately) who were now very friendly and behaving nicely. Stu and the boys were due back tomorrow and were in Saigon tonight. Originally we had planned to leave on Monday morning, as Captain Caveman had his briefing that night. However, his tour had been swapped and he was no longer working tomorrow. We got a taxi to Khoi Bistro and had a really lovely meal with craft beer. Captain Caveman had a seafood omelette which, quite frankly, made my stomach turn but he enjoyed it and I had a pork dish as my initial choice of duck was sold out. It was busy with it being a weekend and there was a massive private party but the owner still found time to chat to us. Our bill came to 455,000VND (£13.80) which was very good value considering that included mussels and a 2 litre keg of beer. We really enjoyed it and to top off a fantastic day, when we got back home, Terror jumped up on to the sofa for strokes and kisses. Rodger took himself off to bed in our (Max’s) room and slept next to the fan at the bottom of our bed.

Dong Hoi – 8th June

It doesn’t take a genius to work out that I completely ruined all plans for Saturday 8th June by being unable to function properly. The hangover was bad, Captain Caveman had to see to Rodger and Terror while I had to rearrange an appointment with my old physio and her family. I didn’t manage any breakfast and could barely drink my litre of water.
At lunch time I was in no position to get on the back of a motorbike to go anywhere. Captain Caveman ordered a Tree Hugger delivery for lunch for us. I ordered the beef and vegetable rice plate, while Captain Caveman went for the burger. It cost 200,000VND (£6.13) for our meals and 2 drinks.
We ran out of water so Captain Caveman had to venture out to get one of the 19 litre refills, for 25,000VND (77p).
We made it out for walks twice in the evening, both Terror and Rodger were keen for a wander. Captain Caveman managed to buy a case of 24 beers for 270,000VND (£8.27) so he could fill up the fridge for Stu and the boys’ return on Monday. For dinner we went to Oregano where we had pasta and shared a Caesar salad before heading back home and going back to bed, me still feeling very rough!

Dong Hoi & Phong Nha – 7th June

At 7.30am on Friday 7th June there was an air of excitement as it looked like Rodger was ready to go at last. I’d gone downstairs to use the bathroom and then had to shout up to Captain Caveman to hurry along and bring me a bra. Rodger didn’t want to put the lead on, even though on the label it said he was a Police Dog, but we eventually got it on and then there was no stopping him. Captain Caveman had to take him as he was too strong for me and he pulled until he got to the first corner of grass. We were all so happy that Rodger had finally done his business at last. By 8am we were walking back to the house, me in my sleepwear, Rodger looking very proud of himself indeed.

For a late breakfast/very early lunch we went to Saigon Deli where we bought the dogs food and had our usual pork dishes. After feeding the dogs their lunch, Terror seemed to also be getting a bit more friendly. Before noon we had a video call with Stu so we could share the amazing news that Rodger had managed a walk and a poo after a whole week of not going!
At 12.15pm we were getting picked up as we were off on a bit of a jolly!

There was an Oxalis 13 year anniversary party which Captain Caveman and I had been invited to. He was going to be getting a certificate to commemorate 10 years with Oxalis (it was actually 11). The drive to Phong Nha involved picking up some flowers for the party and we waited in the minibus. We got dropped off at The Villas, as that’s where I’d left Bluey just over a week ago. I had a sensible cup of tea to start with but then we realised it was half price margaritas on Fridays and we just had to indulge. We were peckish by this time so we ordered lunch which was rather filling. I had the chicken and bacon sandwich (with chips) and Captain Caveman ordered the salmon.

During our visit, we bumped in to a Victory Road Villas guest, called Meyer, who also enjoys a drop of Tequila. We got chatting and he brought his very own bottle of Tequila out. We shared a shot or two with this rather interesting Australian fella and had a great time. After our margaritas and a couple of tequilas with Meyer it was almost time to go to the Oxalis party. We paid our bill which was a very reasonable 1,120,000VND (£34.10) for cocktails, tea and our lunch.

Of course, we should have got on our bikes and cycled to Oxalis for their 13th anniversary party, however, we were beckoned over by the disabled family across by the river, who own the small cafe. We were joined by shaky-hand girl, so called because she loves to shake hands with people for the longest time and is very friendly. Captain Caveman had a Vietnamese drip coffee and I had a fresh coconut and then we decided to visit Tuan on the floating boat restaurant and bar, as we were in the vicinity.

Nha Be Noi Song Son (the Vietnamese name) is so lovely, primarily known for its fresh seafood and catering to large groups, but is also great for a couple of pork spring rolls and a beer. The owner, Tuan, had been swimming in the river but came to join us, along with shaky-hand girl.

We cycled to Oxalis just in time to join the anniversary party where it was good to see staff being recognised and rewarded for their continued service. As Oxalis was very busy with tours there wasn’t everyone there but I saw a few familiar faces. Chau, the owner, was on a TV link up from Saigon, having left his brother in charge of the proceedings including the certificate and gift presentation.
Luckily, it wasn’t a late one and we got a lift back to Dong Hoi with some of Captain Caveman’s colleagues. At 10pm, after letting the dogs out (still separately of course) we were in bed. I fell asleep on the sofa and Terror made some progress as he started to give me licks. Rodger was my new best friend and he came to sleep in our room easily, he even let me give him a stroke.

Dong Hoi – 6th June

Captain Caveman and I were back to Mr Bull’s Bo Ne breakfast on Thursday 6th June, his with coffee and mine with lots of iced green tea. Back ‘home’ there was a little bit of progress with the dogs; Terror had stopped growling at us every time we went in to ‘his’ (Jack’s) room and I almost got a lead on Rodger who still had not had a poo.
For lunch we needed more food for the dogs so we went to Saigon Deli to eat where we had the same as we always do, pork, veg and rice. The dogs got their usual of pork, quails egg and rice and the total amount came to 266,000VND (£8.30). On the way back I wanted to call at An Nong which is an organic fruit and veg shop. As we approached I got a bit of a spasm in my stomach and needed the toilet, urgently. I waited outside, Captain Caveman took far too long, in my mind, to grab 800g of mangosteen for 95,000VND (£2.97), our favourite fruit.
We made it back in time and I spent rather too long in the downstairs bathroom before retiring to the AC of the bedroom to rest. When I was back to some semblance of normality, Captain Caveman and I unfortunately got involved in some Oxalis related issues. One was that I’d spotted one of the sales team had posted on Facebook to say there was a rare spare space on an upcoming Son Doong tour. Accidentally using the Google translated word ‘Dangerous’ to describe it. I told Captain Caveman so that he could let the girl know to change it but it seemed the original Vietnamese word was something like ‘rare’ or ‘scarce’ and the translation just didn’t match correctly.
I was about to go back upstairs to the AC and for a lay down when Captain Caveman got an email from work. His supervisors were in the UK but needed to know if he could cover a Son Doong trip starting tomorrow. They didn’t have anyone else to cover it due to an issue/delay with permission sign off for the safety specialist and they needed to know straight away. The briefing was in Phong Nha in an hour’s time so someone could do that for him as he wouldn’t make it in time (how thoughtful). I was absolutely fuming and did not want him to do it. He had agreed to look after Stu’s house and dogs for another 4 days so it meant I would have to continue alone and without transport or any help. Captain Caveman told me the money would come in handy and that he didn’t have any choice as there was no one else available so he was going to reply with agreement to do it. I stormed off upstairs to pack stuff so that he could take some of my stuff back with him in the morning. He wouldn’t return to Dong Hoi so I didn’t want to be carrying all my stuff back by myself, once Stu and the boys returned. I suggested we have a video call with Stu, once he had finished packing and going to buy stuff for the dogs and me for while he was gone. I also decided to point out that I thought it a bit rich that he had been told he was no longer needed after this year but yet the company still didn’t seem to be able to provide cover without asking him.

It took me a while to calm down and reflect on the situation. I’d felt annoyed with Captain Caveman for his seeming inability to say no to doing a last minute Son Doong tour. However, on reflection, I knew he was doing it to help out his co-workers. A lot of his colleagues would be relying on him and that was probably his motivation to agree to it. I went back downstairs to apologise for having a strop and we had a hug. Both of us were a bit sad about the situation but had accepted it and we had prepared for me to take over the house and dog sitting – I would be fine.
The phone rang, it was one of his supervisors to say they didn’t need him now!!!! I had to walk in to another room and bite my tongue!
We got ready, walked Terror, but not Rodger, and went out to Oregano again for dinner. We shared a gorgeous Caesar salad, Spag Bol and a salami pizza. It was so good that we ordered a second pizza to take home. We were both relieved that Captain Caveman didn’t have to work tomorrow and when we got back Rodger seemed to be a bit more friendly towards me – or was he just hoping for a piece of pizza!?

Dong Hoi – 5th June

We woke up on Wednesday 5th June to another hot and sticky day. I took my measurements to find I had put 1cm on my bust and hips but my waist had stayed the same. I had lost 0.85kg (1.9lb) which was a good result considering how many syns (251) I’d had. Captain Caveman had found a pho restaurant not too far away and we rode there for breakfast. I really enjoyed Pho Ly Quoc Su where we had 2 Pho Bo (beef noodle soups), dough sticks, a coffee and a peach tea for 170,000VND (£5.28).

We rode back home and chilled out, Captain Caveman played Bridge and we let each dog out separately.
In just 3 weeks I would be back in Dalyan and I kept reminding Captain Caveman this. There was also a heat wave happening there and I hoped my parents were coping.
For lunch we had bananas and cheese toasties so I used some syns there. Later in the afternoon, we had some progress with Rodger when he came in to Max’s bedroom with me. He only came for a look and then when back out but it showed he was trusting me more. He still wouldn’t go for a walk but Terror was really enjoying his evening walks now.

In the evening the diet went by the wayside yet again as we went by taxi to a new place for dinner. Here’s what we had with prices in Dong at a rather nice restaurant;

Khoi Bistro
Peanuts 10,000
1 Full Moon Beer 45,000
1 Hero Beer 50,000
2 Rosé Beer 58,000
2 litre Beer keg 120,000
Pork and veg with rice 180,000
Pork ribs with salad 250,000
Total spent 713,000VND (£22.13)

The food was really good and we particularly liked the beers. It turned out to be owned and run by a guy who used to live in Phong Nha so we got chatting with him. We also got some children from the next table come to say hello and they took a bit of a shine to Captain Caveman. I’d really enjoyed the meal and the beers and hoped we would visit Khoi Bistro again while we were in Dong Hoi.

Dong Hoi – 4th June

The heat wasn’t letting up any on Tuesday 4th June as the warnings at 6am were that it felt like 35°C and 76% humidity. By 9am we had ventured out on the motorbike to Mr Bull for another Bo Ne breakfast. At 1.30pm the humidity had dropped to 56% but with a feels like 44°C and it was quite unbearable. Today was the day I should have been moving in to Steve and Michelle’s house in Lardos, Rhodes, to look after their dog and several cats. I noticed on Facebook that Steve and Michelle had unfriended me and they were about to head off on their round the world trip of a lifetime. Obviously, it was a shame that it had come to that but given that I had let them down on the dog sit I knew their reasons. Unfortunately, without any income and all the uncertainty in my life right now, I couldn’t have done anything else and some things aren’t meant to work out. They now just came up as ‘People I may know’ on my Facebook.
It took me ages to prise Captain Caveman away from his Bridge but by 2.30pm I was rather hungry. We went to another one of my favourites, Tree Hugger, where I had a chicken salad and a peach tea. Captain Caveman had his usual egg sandwich and a smoothie, followed by a lime and mint slushy which he was meant to share but forgot.

Back outside Stu’s house, there was lots of drying squid which made me feel sick. There was also a lovely old building nearby which I liked the look of. Rodger still wouldn’t go for a walk but sat outside sunbathing once it got a little cooler. We walked Terror and then went to Oregano again for dinner.

I ordered a Spaghetti Bolognese, Captain Caveman ordered a Carbonara and a salami pizza, of which I had half. When we got back to the house we decided to open some wine we had brought but there was no corkscrew in the house. Captain Caveman went back out to buy one and we shared the wine while trying to encourage Terror to not chase bugs/mice in the under stairs cupboard.
This week I’d had 251 syns, 58 of which were alcohol, and tomorrow was weigh day – it wasn’t looking good!

Dong Hoi – 3rd June

Captain Caveman and I went to Mr Bull’s for breakfast on Monday 3rd June where we both had the Bo Ne (steak and eggs) for a total of 120,000VND (£3.73). I bought a bottle of water at the WinMart and we drove back to Stu’s. Captain Caveman was picked up at 9am to go back to Oxalis for the day, I was in charge of Rodger and Terror. Both of them were fine when allowed to roam around (separately of course) but they didn’t want any petting or any interaction. It was a shame as they are lovely dogs but it was obvious they didn’t trust us.
I had fruit for lunch as I was trying to get back to being healthy again, I was on 150 syns already for this week.
Captain Caveman arrived back in a good mood, as it cheers him up when he goes to work on a day off. He’d also managed to squeeze in a lunch with Ho Khanh and Nghia. After a walk with just Terror and several failed attempts with Rodger, who still hadn’t had a poo since Friday, we went out for dinner.
Oregano was open so we had a pizza, I chose the veggie one which was very nice. It’s a lovely place but they don’t sell wine, only beer which I was still trying not to have. We bumped in to an old Oxalis colleague of Captain Caveman’s who now owns a vintage clothes shop, Cang’s, which is opposite Oregano. Duc is good fun and I sat and chatted to Luke, another ex Oxalis member, on a video call while Duc and Captain Caveman drank beer.

Dong Hoi – 2nd June

Captain Caveman and I woke up on Sunday 2nd June to a severe heat weather warning. Even the weather updates were telling us to drink water. I decided I was not going anywhere I didn’t have to, but Captain Caveman, despite his day off, had to venture to the Gold shops to change the foreign currency from the tip money. He also decided to go to the shop as I was desperate for some fruit. He borrowed Stu’s motorbike and was gone a while, returning with the below;

Co-op Mart Supermarket
Bananas 13,450
Dragon fruit 19,391
Plums 20,152
Apples 31,283
5 Grains biscuits 51,500VND
Total spent 135,676VND (£4.21)

I’d not had any breakfast, and the dogs needed some lunch getting so Captain Caveman drove us to Saigon Deli. He and I had the pork with rice for lunch and ordered the dogs their usual pork, quails egg and rice for their’s. The food was very nice and cheap, my dish (without egg) cost 42,000VND (£1.31).
Back at our temporary home, I fed the dogs, Captain Caveman had put some washing on, including various items of the lads which he’d found around the house. I went to help him hang it up but he got snappy with me for doing it wrong! I left him to it and went back in to the Aircon bedroom and did some writing.
At 6.30pm I had to interrupt Captain Caveman’s afternoon of Bridge playing for us to attempt the dog walks. Rodger was having none of it and disappeared down the side of the house. We eventually got him back in and in to a spare bedroom, while we got Terror out. He was still a bit nervous around us but we got the lead on and off we went.
There was a drone event on in town which Captain Caveman was interested in going to, I wasn’t bothered. We took the motorbike to go for food at Oregano but it was closed. Instead we went to one of my favourite restaurants in Dong Hoi, 7th Heaven. Captain Caveman ordered a Caesar salad and a spicy dish. I ordered the not spicy chicken Luk Lak. Unfortunately, I couldn’t eat mine as it was so spicy and obviously had chillies in. I ordered some cheesy garlic bread and made do with that, we took the rest of my dish home and put it in the freezer. Of course, we then couldn’t go to see the drone show because I had a bad stomach, and Captain Caveman wasn’t too pleased. I went back to the AC of the bedroom when we got in while Captain Caveman resumed his Bridge. Tomorrow he had arranged to go in to work, on his day off, as he had the tips and some other stuff to sort out.

Dong Hoi – 1st June

Captain Caveman and I woke up, in Max’s bed, on Saturday 1st June feeling a bit woolly. I had just over 3 weeks left in Vietnam, until a brief visit to Turkey on my way to the UK to get a new passport and pick up some other documents from my home town. It was a bit too early to get up but we had to say bye to Stu, Max & Jack before they left for their trip to Australia. We also had to use the downstairs bathroom for the toilet. We went to Mr Bull’s for breakfast where we all had Bo Ne and I gave my egg to Captain Caveman.
After the guys had left we tried to be friendly with the dogs, each in turn. Rodger was so scared of us that he hid down the side of the house. Terror was not as scared but was intent on guarding Jack’s room by snarling at us if we went near.
Captain Caveman was sick with a cold, he was tired and grumpy and mainly played Bridge all day. Only he is able to ride a motorbike and we were quite a way from town so I would have to rely on him for the next 10 days to go anywhere. When it got to lunch time, Captain Caveman didn’t want to go anywhere as he was playing Bridge so I had some of the 5 Grains biscuits to put me on. I’d been looking forward to having a kitchen to cook in after 3 months without one. Unfortunately, it was too hot for me to bother with. I fed the dogs who had leftover pork, rice and quail eggs but they weren’t too pleased at me going in to their rooms to get the bowls. For dinner, I thought Captain Caveman would take us out somewhere in Dong Hoi but he was still feeling ill and playing Bridge.
Stu had left us some ham, cheese, bacon, lettuce and bread in the fridge so Captain Caveman made us a cheese and ham toastie. Since I’d been ill last month, I was still not great with ham and I wasn’t a fan of the sandwiches. It also meant that I was already on 131 syns for this week with 3 more days to go.
We tried to walk the dogs but neither of them were compliant, Rodger was absolutely having none of it. Terror wanted to but just didn’t trust us until eventually Captain Caveman got him on the lead. Once outside, he walked fine and we did a short walk together then came back. I didn’t take any photos of the dogs as they were not up for it, but I really they hoped they would get used to us.

Phong Nha & Dong Hoi – 31st May

The last day of the month, Friday 31st May, was a busy one. Captain Caveman was due back from the cave in the afternoon and we had plans for me to join him at Chay Lap that night. We had agreed to house and dogsit for our friends, Stu, Max & Jack, in Dong Hoi until the 10th of next month. They were off to Australia tomorrow morning and couldn’t leave the dogs with just anyone or put them in kennels. I packed my bag in the morning as I needed to check out and I paid the bill for Phong Nha Homestay, which was a bargain at 3,744,000VND (£115), including quite a bit of laundry, for a total of 17 nights. It was still one of my favourite places to stay in Phong Nha centre due to it being so clean, cheap and safe. Plus the family who own it are no-nonsense honest people. I left my bag for us to pick up later and I was heading to Phong Nha Vegan when I noticed it was about to rain. I had just stepped in to The Villas and shouted to the staff to let them know it had started to rain as they had the roof canopy open. While they rushed in to action to move stuff that was going to get wet, I got comfy and perused the rather hefty breakfast menu over a nice pot of tea and some homemade biscuits. I decided I was going to have the bacon and egg roll, but without the egg. It was really good and the bread was fresh and soft.
I spent the morning there as the rain poured down then I ordered the salami and prawn spaghetti with parmesan for lunch. It was delicious, although rather more generous with the salami than the prawns, so not great for that diet I was supposed to be on.
Captain Caveman arrived and had a pizza, as is his usual, and I didn’t share any. By 2pm we were taking full advantage of the summer cocktail offers and today, as it was Friday, there was 50% off margaritas! After a couple of drinks I got peckish again and ordered a Margherita pizza with more Margarita cocktails (this could get confusing). Our total bill with the summer offers came to just 917,000VND (£28.40) – great value and I was rather merry!
While Captain Caveman did the gala dinner with his tour group at Chay Lap, I played pool with the taxi driver. He thrashed me as he plays rules where you can hit any ball on any go – it made it quicker and certainly interesting. He offered to share his portion of french fries, which I politely declined, and we talked about his wife and family which was very nice.
We obviously arrived at Stu’s place quite late, and tiddly. Captain Caveman had shouted at me for not knowing the way when it turned out I did. I stormed off inside, leaving him to get all the bags, and we had a beer with Stu and met the dogs. They were Vietnamese dogs, and weren’t particularly friendly towards us. Rodger had a blood parasite and had recently had one eye removed so looked like a pirate and Terror was the son of Rodger, who hated his head being touched. The next week or so was certainly going to keep us on our toes, especially as the 2 dogs could not be in the same room at any time. Max, the eldest son, gave up his bedroom for Captain Caveman and I to sleep in and it had a decent AC unit which was very good of him.

Phong Nha – 24th May

Captain Caveman was due out of Son Doong on Friday 24th May and I had not done much while he’d been gone. Obviously, being ill had helped on the weight loss this week but it had certainly helped with the budget too. I totted up that in the last 4 days I’d only spent 300,000VND (£9.24) so far, which included drinking water too.
I cycled to Phong Nha Vegan where little May, the dog, was waiting for me and seemed a bit fed up. Hoan made me a Banh Canh, a vegan noodle soup, which was so good. She was working on a new dish that she had seen online and was happily cooking away in the kitchen. Her new dish was to look a little like duck but was made from tofu and mushroom. I couldn’t wait to try it as it looked so tasty but, as is common in Vietnam, she doused it in chilli sauce so I couldn’t have it. As I watched everyone else enjoy it, I tucked in to boiled pumpkin leaves and steamed rice. Ha got me a fresh coconut to go with it which was lovely.

I left the Vegan at 1.30pm to go back for a shower, arranging to be back again at 6pm. When Captain Caveman got back we went to Tree House, where he was getting picked up for his Gala dinner. I decided to treat myself to the falafel and hummus dish which comes with greek salad and pitta bread. I was still not feeling well enough to eat meat or drink any alcohol and the thought of meat was making me queasy, which was odd. Captain Caveman ordered the smoked salmon and scrambled egg which came with chips and rye bread. He had an espresso martini and I had a passion fruit juice. Unfortunately, I thought my falafel tasted a bit odd and asked Captain Caveman if he wanted it. We deduced it was made from peas, not chickpeas, and I hate peas so he finished it off.

Captain Caveman went to Chay Lap at 5.30pm and I cycled back to the Vegan where it was incredibly hot. We met afterwards and called for a drink in The Villas. I went mad and ordered a ginger beer without checking the price, Captain Caveman had a normal beer. He also decided to wind the staff up by telling them that, due to the brightly coloured redecorating job that Ben had undertaken on the whole place, they were going to have to wear new uniforms to match the walls. We paid our bill of 145,000VND (£4.50), left at a reasonable 9.15pm and cycled back to Phong Nha Homestay to go to sleep. Tomorrow we had a busy day planned as Captain Caveman had a couple of days off.

Phong Nha – 23rd May

I woke up after 8am on Thursday 23rd May and had messages from Chung and Hoan asking how I was. I felt loads better and actually felt hungry, which was a good sign that I was getting over the sickness. I got to the Phong Nha Vegan at 11am, said hello to May, the dog, and got on the scales. I’d lost a whopping 3kg (6.6lb) since last week and I could tell. I was also surprised to find that the entire kitchen had gone through a total deep clean. Chung, once she had heard I may have food poisoning, had got everyone scrubbing the place down. I was sure it was nothing I’d had at the Vegan but it can’t hurt to give them an excuse to exercise a bit of hygiene awareness.
Hoan made me a vegan pho which felt like the best meal I’d ever had. I also shared a pot of licorice and ginger tea with Chung and Hoan. I wasn’t going to stay long but it started to rain and I got talking to a couple of English holiday makers. As we sheltered, Hoan cooked up some jack fruit seeds which I absolutely love. They taste like chestnuts and are also great in a vegan curry so we looked at some recipes. Chung worked on her laptop at the Vegan as it lashed it down around the edges of the open building. There was Vegan condensed milk at the Vegan which costs 100,000VND (£3.10) per tin – very expensive, I thought. I didn’t leave until the rain eased at 3.30pm and then called at the shop, where I bought the following;

WinMart Supermarket
1 Chunky KitKat 17,700
1 flannel 24,400
1 box 5 Grains biscuits 30,500
Total spent 72,600VND (£2.25)

The amazing view from Phong Nha Vegan

I was so glad of the rain to cool it down

I got in the room to find it had been cleaned and the rest of my fruit cake and cheese had been thrown away, my tupperware had been washed out and was drying on the table. I ate the KitKat and felt ok, then had a shower before getting ready to go back to the Vegan at 6pm. May, the dog, was gadding about with the dog from next door and he came to say hello. Ha made me an iced kumquat tea and Hanh made me a tofu and tomato noodle soup which was extremely good, she even gave me steamed rice to go with it to keep my strength up. I was very grateful of the vegan restaurant right now as they fed me very well. I didn’t stay long as I didn’t want to overdo it and I had a video call booked in with my parents.
Ma & Pa were in good spirits as Dad had been checked out following a poorly ear and all was good. They had decided to fly back from Turkey especially for the appointment so, although it turned out to be nothing to worry about, for the price of the flights it was worth doing. It did mean they could now go back to Turkey again when they wanted and hopefully would be there when I got there. I only had 28 days left in Phong Nha and would be in Dalyan in less than 5 weeks time. I went to bed late and hoped I’d not kept the people in the next room awake with our call. Tomorrow, Captain Caveman was due back from the cave and I was probably going to be practicing my Vietnamese at the Vegan at both lunch and dinner times.

Phong Nha – 20th May

Captain Caveman was of course on his phone playing Bridge before 6am on Monday 20th May and I was up and about at 6.30am. We decided to go back to Green Point restaurant for breakfast and I was excited to see croissants on the menu. I obviously broke the healthy eating regime and ordered one with an orange juice. Captain Caveman had some concoction of mashed avocado on bread with a poached egg on top. He said it was good and shovelled it in while I realised my croissant had a sweet custard-like substance inside it. I didn’t like that part of it and scooped it out but the croissant was very nice.

By 9am we had cycled to the Oxalis office so that Captain Caveman could do some work related tasks and I did some writing with a fan on me. It was very humid and I thought it felt like rain as we called at the shop for some peanut M&Ms.
Back at Phong Nha Homestay, Captain Caveman played Bridge all morning and at 12.30pm I suggested we go out as the sky was looking quite moody.

Another first experience for me happened when I ordered a pizza with broccoli on it, as we had returned to Green Point, yet again. The pizzas were a bargain at 139,000VND (£4.31), I had the Sorrentina and Captain Caveman had the Diavola. Both were really good and the base was one of the best in town and, surprisingly, broccoli on a pizza was a winner! I even had a beer with Captain Caveman as he was off to his briefing tonight again. It rained in the afternoon which I was glad about, as it cooled down a bit.

Photo credit – some by Captain Caveman

Video from Green Point restaurant with some much needed rain

By 5.45pm Captain Caveman had gone to Oxalis and I was at Phong Nha Vegan where there were a lot of mosquitoes. Little May, the dog from down the road, came for belly rubs and after getting tired of doing it with my hands I resorted to tickling him with my barefoot. I decided I didn’t feel like eating dinner as I was too hot, by the time Captain Caveman came to meet me at 8.30pm, I felt a bit unwell. We started to cycle home but we had to stop at The Villa’s. I had a cup of jasmine tea, he had a beer and I needed to use the toilet. I also felt a bit queasy, like I might throw up or faint and I wondered if I had overdone it on the gluten today. By the time we got back to the room, I was in pain and it made me cry. I was also conscious that Captain Caveman needed sleep because he was on tour tomorrow.

Phong Nha – 16th May

I found Thursday 16th May to have more disappointment in it than I would have liked. I got up early and cycled to Oxalis to pick up the laundry. The 4kg bag cost 120,000VND (£3.71), I noticed it was badly folded and pretty creased. I cycled back to The Villa’s to get some breakfast and I was hoping for a relaxing day. Unfortunately, I was met by a disgruntled Manu who told me there was no food available today. All of the female staff, which includes the chef had gone off for a spa day in Dong Hoi. Manu told me he had been hoping for an easy day, as I drank a soda water and contemplated where I might get breakfast. Ben, the owner, arrived with a young apprentice and started eyeing up walls. He looked like he had big plans as he mentioned moving some furniture. As I decided I would cycle back ‘home’ with the laundry and go to Tree House for a fruit salad, Chung messaged Hoan and I to say she couldn’t go to the Vegan, as planned, because she had to deal with customers at work. She asked if I could be there to help the staff with English speaking customer queries so I had to take the laundry back in the direction I had already come. When I got there I ordered and scoffed the delicious vegan pho down, made by the owner. It was lovely and I started to feel a bit better for eating, especially as it was already late and very hot & humid. Hoan treated us all to a mixed fruit juice from her friend’s stall near the market and it was very refreshing. May, the dog from down the road, came to take shelter from the sun and insisted on some water and belly rubs.
I cycled ‘home’ in heat and managed to squeeze in a call with Ma & Pa who were now in Dalyan. As the time difference was only 4 hours it was easier for them to accommodate and they told me about their recent trip to Istanbul. It sounded like they had an amazing time with my sister and her husband on a tour with our Dalyan friend, Murat.
I rode Bluey back to Phong Nha Vegan at 6pm. It was very busy, so many customers with lots of questions and requirements, which I helped with. I also managed to wolf down a very tasty and hearty Banh Canh, which is a veggie noodle soup.
After a change in the weather, I hurried back to the homestay for another video call, this time with Adele. We were on the phone for well over an hour and we even spoke of a celebration ladies only boat trip for when I was back in Dalyan. I finally got to bed at about midnight and I decided not to set an alarm for tomorrow.

Phong Nha – 14th May

As Captain Caveman was off back in to Son Doong on Tuesday 14th May, we were up early. Our last breakfast at Greenfield Ecostay was had together, Captain Caveman had omelette and I had pineapple pancake. Ngan also gave us mango and dragon fruit to eat and, of course, I had my last Yorkshire tea for a while. I said bye to Captain Caveman and sat by the pool catching up on some writing. On his way in to town he dropped my bag at my next accommodation and messaged to say I could check in from 11am. Around 10.30am I decided to say my farewells and thanks to René and Ngan, it had been one of the best stays we’d had. I’d already written a quick note of the things I would miss most about Greenfield Ecostay;

1. The owners, and their amazing hospitality.
2. Being in such a relaxed and tranquil place.
3. Mina, the extra shy and timid dog.
4. The delicious food that is so well prepared, varied and plentiful.
5. How clean the place is despite it’s closeness to nature.
6. The feeling of being so welcome and relaxed.
7. The swimming pool, probably the cleanest and best in Phong Nha.
8. The attention to detail that the owners and their staff make to ensure the most comfortable stay; from making sure the pool towels are ready to tidying and cleaning.
9. The wine/beers with René of an evening.
10. Being away from any stresses and feeling like we are on holiday in Captain Caveman’s home town.

I arrived in Phong Nha town just before 11am and decided to go to Tree House for an early lunch. I had a bottle of water, a fresh coconut and a cream cheese & salami sandwich for 150,000VND (£4.64). There was rather a lot of salami in the sandwich and the bread was a bit clumpy but I managed it, with the lettuce from the salad too.

At 11.50am I checked in to Phong Nha Homestay, for the second time of my trip. I was given the same room as the last time but this time there was no kettle in the room and 2 less pillows on the bed. I’d found out recently that some Vietnamese people believe that if you have a second pillow in bed you are inviting the dead ancestors to come to sleep with you!
I chilled out in the room for a bit and the weather forecast predicted rain that never came so it was hot and humid. I had fruitcake and cheese for lunch which was nice but a bit rich. More news came from Turkey which meant that if I wanted to go for long-term residency, it would be a few more years yet as I no longer qualified. The pool pump and filter had been fixed which we all had to pay our share of and would have been cheaper if we’d had it done last year.

I spent about 2 hours at Phong Nha Vegan in the evening and I had the fake pork with rice, vegetables and tempura Oyster mushrooms. It was delicious and I cycled back to the homestay for a much needed early night. Tomorrow was weigh day again and I knew it wasn’t going to be a good result, I’d had 331 syns this week, 130 of which were on alcohol. I needed to get back on plan while Captain Caveman was away and I was back to being on a strict budget.

joloyolo

The ramblings and observations of a fortysomething lady of leisure

Tag: dogs