Katowice – 1st September

I was awake early on Tuesday 1st September, totting up the August budget against spending. It wasn’t good news. In the last 3 days I’d gone through £305.75, compared to just £19.99 for the whole week prior to being on holiday. For August, I’d set the budget at £25 per day but had gone way over at £1,197 spent in the whole month (£38.61 per day). This did included mine and Captain Caveman’s flights for Türkiye next month. Without splashing out on those, though, it would still have been over at £27.22! When I mentioned it to Captain Caveman he thought it wasn’t too bad and I decided to up the budget for September. I wanted to double it to £50 per day but I knew I didn’t have that available. I decided to keep it at £30 per day and hope for the best. By 8am I had checked my emails, walked to the bakery and bought salami and cheese sandwiches for breakfast at £6.16 for 2, then gone back to my laptop to try to squeeze some work in. Captain Caveman had got agreement to attend the Bridge event (the main reason we were in Katowice) so he’d set off early too, taking his sandwich with him.

Around midday Louisa and I met up to go to the Museum of History of Katowice. It was free to go in on a Tuesday and we even got a private tour for just the two of us. Our expectations were exceeded and I really enjoyed this museum, and not just because it was free. While walking, we spotted that a road/bridge had collapsed and it was being rebuilt. On the way back we stopped at Opal cafe for a drink, it took a while to get served and I decided to have a hot chocolate and see if the lactase pills worked on it – hot chocolate is usually a no go for me but I do like it and this time I wasn’t too ill. Louisa hadn’t had any breakfast so she ordered some chips for lunch but I still had half of my breakfast sandwich in the hotel room fridge, along with that neverending pork rope. Louisa treated us and it was a nice spot to get a drink and a snack, just next to the statue of the bull. The Charging Bull statue represents financial optimism, economic resilience, and the unstoppable energy of a bull market, according to Google.

Back at the hotel I had a busy time at my temporary desk. Captain Caveman returned back from the Bridge event with a gout flare up which I was convinced was down to the beer but he said it wasn’t. Louisa had gone to her room to read or watch a film. We arranged to all meet at 5pm to go to a craft beer place which Captain Caveman had on his list. I’d been too busy to take note of the location so Captain Caveman was a bit cheesed off that Browariat was closed due to the maintainance of the road/bridge we had been past earlier. I suggested the nearby pork cutlet restaurant for dinner but it wasn’t open yet and the others preferred to try Statca Bejrut, a Lebanese kebab place. I was less up for it, given that I had a Lebanese kebab shop on my list for Brussels at the weekend, but I was outnumbered and peckish – so when in Rome (or Katowice). Louisa, like me, is not a fan of yoghurt so she managed to order hers without the garlic sauce, Captain Caveman got one that was extra spicy and I just went for a regular chicken shish which had the sauce on. It was messy, greasy and gave me a bad stomach but it tasted quite good. It was also a cheap dinner at £18 for 2 kebabs, 1 ayran, 1 tea and 2 free pieces of baklava.

Next, we went to a bar called Biata Matpa which also sold Mexican food. Captain Caveman and I had a beer each at a reasonable £8 and we only stayed for 1 drink as everyone was full and tired. Despite me taking my pills and checking there were no chillies in my kebab I made full use of the facilities and then we walked back to the hotel before 8.30pm.

Gratitude List
1. The Museum of History of Katowice
2. Captain Caveman being allowed in to the Bridge event
3. Spending just £32.16 for both of us today, so being under budget.

Katowice – 31st August

I was meant to be working from the Katowice hotel room on Monday 31st August. I did just about manage to log on, check emails and post some content but then Captain Caveman was ready for us to go for breakfast and have a proper look around Katowice. We had left it a little bit late which worked out better for Louisa as she’s not a breakfast person. The place we chose was more from what was open than checking out it’s 5 star reviews. Kromka was a nice little cafe but they didn’t have much left so we had an eclectic mix of dishes for our brunch. Captain Caveman chose a shakshuka type of dish, Louisa ended up with a smash burger without cheese and I had a Rubens sandwich with sauce on the side.
Before the food came, the lovely waiter explained that the workman who had just arrived needed to turn the electricity off so we sat in the semi-darkness for a while. When the food came the lights were still off so the photos weren’t great. Captain Caveman enjoyed his, my sandwich was good but filling Louisa didn’t enjoy her burger as it had too much ketchup on.
When we came to pay, the electric had come back on but the card machine wasn’t working so we had to pay cash. Captain Caveman and my breakfast with a drink came to £22 in total so it wasn’t the cheapest place in town and a croissant probably would’ve sufficed, however I wasn’t sure what the Polish locals ate for breakfast. I later noted it was mainly bread (rye), eggs, cheeses and cold cuts of meat.

We left around noon and went for a walk to do a bit of free sightseeing. The town of Katowice is industrial and had some very interesting architecture. Captain Caveman took some great pictures which were much better than mine. It was also a bit cooler than I’d expected and then it started to rain a little. Captain Caveman popped in to the building where the Bridge event was and was told he couldn’t enter as he needed to pre-register via email and I could tell he was disappointed.

By 1.30pm we were back at the hotel and arranged to meet at Lorneta Z Meduza bar at 5pm for drinks before going out for dinner. Captain Caveman and I had 5 drinks in there which came to a total of £30.
For dinner Captain Caveman chose a pizza place called Pizzatopia. I was quite merry by this point so didn’t care too much what I ate. Our 2 pizzas, a beer and a wine came to £26. It was ok but the BBQ sauce squirted on the top was overly sweet so I didn’t manage to eat all of mine.
We hadn’t done any paid trips or attractions but had managed to spend £78 between the 2 of us on 2 meals out and alcohol, which was over budget again. Tomorrow we needed to take it easier on the booze! I also thought it would be better to eat what the locals eat and I was looking forward to eating some traditional pork dishes.

Gratitude List
1. Free sightseeing in Katowice
2. Drinking in Lorneta Z Meduza (again) with cheap drinks
3. Spending time with Captain Caveman and Louisa in Katowice.

Photo Credit – some photos by Captain Caveman

Krakow & Katowice – 30th August

We hadn’t booked breakfast in the hotel on Sunday 30th August so I did a bit of work and Captain Caveman decided to take himself off to the Salt Mine. This was meant to have been an activity that he and Louisa were going to do together, as I am not a fan of being in underground situations like that and suffer quite badly from cleithrophobia. However, Louisa wasn’t departing Manchester until 11.20am today and was meeting us in Katowice tonight. The Salt Mine was nearer to Krakow than Katowice so it made sense to Captain Caveman to do it straight away and on his own. He left by 8am and got the SKA1 train from Krakow to Wieliczka for less than £1.60. The Salt Mine entry was £32.55 and he was in there just over 2 hours.
Meanwhile, I had decided to have a sightseeing morning in the delightful Krakow. I went to a shop and bought snacks to constitute breakfast; a bread which resembled a cheese rock cake and a pork rope. Both had dairy in but I took my tablets and all was fine. It was a bargain £1.83 for both, neither of which I would recommend or buy again, though.
I wandered around the town and took photos, it was a lovely sunny day and everyone I encountered seemed friendly. It was cheap, beautiful and seemed like a place we should’ve been staying in for longer. I was just about to find a cafe for some tea when I got the call that Captain Caveman was on his way back and would be at the hotel in 20 minutes, where we had both left our bags. I walked back to meet him, hoping he’d be willing to eat the leftover pork rope.

Captain Caveman enjoyed the Salt Mine but agreed there was no way I would have coped with it, given my previous underground meltdowns that he’s had experience of. He got the train back and met me in the cafe attached to our hotel for a hot beverage and to show me his photos (I’ve included some here). We paid £2.77 for a tea and a coffee and then had to leave as they were closing for the day. At the train station Captain Caveman bought a sandwich to eat on the train for £3.16 but I still had half a rock scone and the pork rope so had some of that. We filled up water bottles from taps on the platform which were very handy. The tap water in Krakow tastes good too.

We left Krakow a little disappointed that we weren’t there for long enough. Captain Caveman and I got the train to Katowice for £8.70 in total and it took less than 1 hour from door to door. We were staying in Hotel M23 for the next 4 nights, in Katowice centre. We put our bags in and I was impressed with the hotel, then we went to meet Louisa.

The venue had already been chosen ahead of time so that we all could find it easily and Louisa’s choice of Lorneta Z Meduza would turn out to be a regular bar to stop at for a drink. We ordered our drinks as we were 10 minutes early and waited for Louisa to join us. A beer was only £1.93 and a substantial size red wine just £2.70 so it was very reasonable to drink alcohol in Katowice. Louisa arrived and had a rum and coke which was £5 and then we all decided to go for food.
We had booked a table at Pierogi Swiata Robert Kukulski as we were all keen to try the local Pierogi dishes. Louisa doesn’t eat cheese so she chose ones without but both Captain Caveman and I chose ones with cheese in. When they came they were quite big portions at £7.40 per dish but tasted great. The alcoholic drinks here were slightly more expensive at £3 for a beer and £3.60 for wine but a coke was just less than £2. This meant our whole meal with drinks came to £30 so not bad for £10 each.
Our next drink of the evening was in a bar called Amnezja where wine and spirits were cheap but beer a little pricier. It was £4.60 for a rum and coke, £1.70 for a wine and £3.30 for a beer.
While we were in there we saw a bit of fighting outside so we decided to leave and go back to the hotel via Lorneta for a nightcap. I updated my budget tracker in The Handy Travel Planner before bed to find, we had spent £88 for both of us today so had gone over budget by £28 – but that included all the travel and sightseeing so it was not the end of the world.

Gratitude List
1. Captain Caveman and I each doing our own choice of sightseeing activity and enjoying it
2. Meeting up with Louisa in Katowice
3. Great Food and drinks in Katowice.

Sheffield to Krakow – 29th August

Saturday 29th August was the day Captain Caveman and I were leaving Sheffield for Manchester airport to have a 9 day holiday together, starting in Poland. Our friend, Louisa, was also joining us but, due to a miscommunication and flight availability when Captain Caveman and her were booking it, she would be meeting us there on Sunday evening. Captain Caveman was in charge of our arrangements as the reason for the trip was for him to attend the Bridge competition that was happening in Katowice, while I worked and got on with writing my book(s). Louisa had been to Poland before and had found herself at a loose end with holidays booked off work. Captain Caveman could see no reason for her to waste the holidays and had suggested we all go together. This was good as it meant those 2 could do all the adventurous/expensive things and I could prioritise other stuff.
This last week I had been so frugal that I’d only spent £19.99 and that was to buy my internal diary pages to change on Canva. I did need to spend money today though and Captain Caveman had transferred money for both of us so that I could use my Wise account while away. I used my copy of The Handy Travel Planner to knock up a budget plan and set it at £30 per day each, which was 3 times my allowance in Turkey.
I’d got up early and packed only to find my new glasses which had been tightened were now uncomfortable and I needed to go back to the opticians. We had already eaten everything in the fridge or cupboard and put stuff in the freezer so we didn’t have anything in for breakfast. I was going to pop and get us croissants from Baker’s Yard but Captain Caveman suggested we go out for breakfast at The Grind. It’s a lovely independent cafe in Kelham Island which I love but don’t go often as it’s not in my budget. Captain Caveman ordered a coffee and eggs on toast, I chose a pot of tea and a granola bowl. I took my Lactase pills so that I didn’t have a bad stomach for travelling and had been pleased with the effects of them – they had generally been great when I took them properly.
I couldn’t manage all of my breakfast as it was massive and I started to get a bit of a belly ache. I ended up with a bad stomach and feeling like I was going to puke which can sometimes happen when I have Greek yoghurt. We walked towards town so that I could go to the opticians and neither of us had a coat on. It was too cold so Captain Caveman decided to go back home and repack while I carried on to town. We had a small personal underseat item each and 1 cabin bag to share. Because we were flying with Ryanair I couldn’t take Pauline, my petite pink suitcase.
Where possible I walk it to town and back, rather than getting the tram as it saves almost £5 and I get some exercise.
I got my glasses sorted at Vision Express then went to Marks and Spencer for travel money and some food for our journey. When travelling, I often take food as it’s sometimes difficult to get food I like in the airport or on the plane, never mind choices which don’t make me ill. I was in a tangle already with my stomach and had to go to the toilet at least 3 times, plus I was trying not to puke.
Here’s what I spent, with prices in pounds;

M&S
Travel Money 100.22
2 smoothies 4.00
2 bags of crisps 2.10
1 pastrami sandwich 4.50
1 nutty salad 3.00
1 bag 0.80
Total spent £114.40

I was also shocked to see that the meal deals were no longer available in the shop in town so our lunch was more expensive than I’d expected. By the time I left, it was raining quite hard so I got wet walking back to Captain Caveman’s flat. He was waiting to set off for our trip, while I fannied about having a shower, putting the washing on and repacking to fit my food in!

Captain Caveman had decided we would drive to the airport this time as on our return he had a meeting in Manchester. I was still feeling ill but we set off according to Captain Caveman’s schedule. Our flight wasn’t until 6.05pm so we arrived early and ate half of our lunch in the car park before we went in to the airport.
I ate my salad once through security and then had to walk for a while to get our water bottles filled back up. Next, we decided to go to the bar where a wine and a beer were about £20.
The Ryanair flight was fine, I was sat in an aisle seat in row 5 while Captain Caveman was in a window seat at the back of the plane. We aren’t bothered about sitting together and we rarely pay extra on short flights to make sure we are.

We arrived in to Krakow airport early and were able to find the train easily. It cost just 20 zloty (£3.86) each for the train from the airport to the main station and took about 1 hour. I was impressed with trains for cleanliness, efficiency and prices in Poland already. We were staying within walking distance of the train station at Krakow Central Apartotel. It was so close that we actually walked past it and then returned. It was very nice and, as we were staying just the 1 night, we dropped out bags and went straight out.

We found nearby Polibuda pub but it was closing at 10pm so we just had a couple of pints of the local beer at just under £3 per pint.
For dinner we found Aleya Food Truck serving amazing Indian street food. We had a chicken pakora wrap for Captain Caveman and a chicken tikka wrap for me and it came to just under £11. It was amazing and I wanted to come back again tomorrow for lunch. Including the airport drinks and M&S picnic we’d still managed to spend under our daily budget (by 88p) for the first day of our holiday and had really enjoyed it. Back at the hotel we had a comfy bed and a very big bathroom.

Gratitude List
1. Getting ready for a week in Poland
2. Amazing food
3. Spending a day off with Captain Caveman.

Plovdiv, Sofia & London – 20th July

Our flight from Bulgaria to the UK wasn’t until 8pm on Monday 20th July. We planned to get the train at midday from Plovdiv back to Sofia, arriving around 2.45pm. The train was hot and sweaty, no AC and had 8 of us per compartment. I couldn’t do any work until I got to Sofia so we decided to go back to the 5 Corners bar for a late lunch. Captain Caveman ordered the meatballs and I had pork schnitzel, both of which were really good. Our bill came to a total of €32.60 (£28) including drinks.
At 5.15pm we headed off to Sofia airport by Metro and I reset up my office there too. It’s very convenient being able to work anywhere but it is getting more difficult to take a full day off now.
On the flight home, I had an aisle seat and Captain Caveman had a window seat – the middle seat was empty! The flight landed in Heathrow at 9.20pm and we got the bus back, following a quick stop at M&S for some snacks.
We were back ‘home’ in Barnes before midnight and quickly scoffed the snacks before bed. It had been a brilliant trip to Bulgaria and it was firmly on our list to return. The fun wasn’t about to stop just yet though as we had more plans for the summer.

Gratitude List
1. Surviving a hot and busy train from Plovdiv to Sofia
2. 5 Corners bar in Sofia
3. Back safely in Barnes with some M&S snacks, after a wonderful trip.

Plovdiv – 19th July

It was another great day in Plovdiv on Sunday 19th July and it was the last day of the Phillgood Festival. We ate breakfast at the hotel, which was nice. For lunch we decided to go to La Casa, a pizza place not far from our hotel. The pizza was huge and very tasty which I couldn’t finish all of mine. We also had a carafe of white wine to go with it and the obligatory litre of water too. Our bill came to €33.10 (£28.44) which wasn’t bad considering I had leftovers for the hotel room fridge.

For dinner we went to a local Bulgarian cafe where Captain Caveman tried the cucumber soup then pork and chips, I just had chicken skewers and corn. All the dishes actually tasted better than they looked and we also had more wine. The bill came to €49.40 (£42.45) which I thought was a little expensive but not extortionate. On our way to the last day of the music festival we bought 2 bottles of water at €1.60 (£1.37) to take in with us as there was no running tap water. Generally in Bulgaria though the tap water is safe to drink and is really good.

We got to the last day of Phillgood a little later than previous days, as I really wanted to see Suede at 9pm. Captain Caveman was more up for Moby who wasn’t on until 10.45pm and the rest of the bands we hadn’t heard of. I’d always been a fan of Suede but they were absolutely incredible. It was hot and sweaty but it did not stop Brett throwing himself around the stage and in to the crowd like he’d not aged a bit! I was so impressed.
By the time Moby came on, I was so tired and Captain Caveman needed a sit down too, so we ended up watching from the back, having a sit on an uncomfortable wall like a couple of old codgers. I’ve never been a fan of Moby’s music but I like what he tries to do. Captain Caveman enjoyed that set more than I did but it was still a good experience to share. My top 3 favourite acts of the whole 3 days had been Suede, The Cure and Kneecap – all incredibly impressive and very different to each other. We walked back to the hotel for the last time and I was so shattered, I was desperately in need of a lay in tomorrow. We polished off the leftover pizza before falling asleep.

Gratitude List
1. More lovely food out in Plovdiv
2. Seeing more amazing live music
3. Spending even more time with Captain Caveman.

Plovdiv – 18th July

We were celebrating Captain Caveman’s birthday on Saturday 18th July and it started with the hotel’s buffet breakfast. After eating, we took a walk up the cobbled hills to the ancient amphitheatre and got some photos. It was hot but not quite Madrid heat so we were coping fine.
We called at the pharmacy for talc and insect repellent at a cost of €9.91 (£8.50) then walked back to the cafe we went to yesterday, this time for birthday ice-cream. Captain Caveman wanted to try their pistachio flavour, I don’t like ice-cream that much so I had a pomegranate frozen yogurt and a raspberry sorbet. It cost €7 (£6) for both of us but, unfortunately, I got belly ache right after eating mine.
We did some more walking around Plovdiv which is a lovely place and decided on an early birthday dinner before day 2 of the Phillgood festival.

Captain Caveman had already researched a place near to our hotel and we had to queue at Shevitsa as it was full. We ordered pints of Hoegaarden and some food. I chose a cheese salad for the starter, Captain Caveman ordered chicken liver. For main I had chicken and sweetcorn while Captain Caveman chose meatballs with potatoes and gherkins. The food was lovely and Captain Caveman ordered a 2nd beer, which again didn’t end up on the bill. Our meal came to a total of €54 (£46.27).

At the Phillgood festival we watched all 4 mainstage acts, starting with Los Bitchos who were better than I expected. Sleaford Mods were not to my taste on account of him being pretty crude and his act seemed somewhat dated but I could see why the Bulgarian men thought he was good. They were definitely not for the easily offended, that’s for sure. We were also more prepared for the mosquitos as we had very strong repellent which we had to put on lots of times – they were rife!
The highlight for me on day 2 was Kneecap who were absolutely fantastic. Gorillaz finished the night off but I was a bit disappointed with them. The crowd was massive though but I did take myself off for a toilet break and a sangria for €7 (£6) half way through.
The walk back to our hotel was long and tiring after being stood up for so long and I was very happy to get in bed at the end of the night. It had definitely been a good way to spend Captain Caveman’s birthday.

Gratitude List
1. Spending Captain Caveman’s birthday with him
2. Day 2 of the Phillgood Festival
3. Great food.

Sofia to Plovdiv – 17th July

It was a long and exciting day on Friday 17th July. I also made 2 errors with friends where I wished one a happy birthday 2 days early and the other I was meant to have a call at 8.30am UK time but I was travelling by train from Sofia to Plovdiv and had no WiFi. I’m usually on the ball with that sort of thing so I felt a bit disorganised – trying to work, do holidays and keep up with friends was taking its toll a bit.
The early morning train was good, on time and no issues. We arrived in Plovdiv and went straight for breakfast as we were starving. I ordered cheese and ham pancakes and a tea while Captain Caveman had quesadillas and a fried egg with coffee. We paid €18.50 (£15.87) which probably wasn’t the cheapest place in town but it was good.

We walked it to the hotel with our backpacks and mine was heavier than Captain Caveman’s because I had all my work stuff with me. It was getting warm and it was quite a walk. When we got to the area near to where we were staying, the roads were all cobbles and quite steep. I found it a struggle but Captain Caveman marched on ahead, as usual. Eventually, he waited at a particularly tricky bit when he realised I wasn’t behind him, then he took my bag. I’d booked the Old Legends hotel because it was a bit quirky and had a roll top bath. It was very old fashioned but amazing and we had one of the best rooms in this 5 star Bulgarian treasure of a place.

At 4pm we got ready to make our way to the Phillgood festival venue and called in to a local cafe for some food. We both ordered the potatoes with cheese and bacon with a soft drink for €11.60 (£9.95). It was so tasty but very filling – probably too stodgy to have just before a gig!

We got the bus but it didn’t go right to the venue and we had to get off and walk. The start time was 5pm but we ended up missing the start of Just Mustard. We had a couple of drinks for €12 (£10.30) where the barman knocked a whole bottle of gin off the bar and I caught it. The Subways did a great set and really worked the crowd, the lead singer tried a bit of crowd surfing but it looked like the Bulgarian audience weren’t that familiar with that. We nipped over to one of the other stages to see Bulgarian Cartrader who was quite good and did a bit of rapping and singing – I liked him. Wolf Alice was on the main stage next and I still wasn’t a massive fan but the Bulgarians were going mad for her. Our favourite act of the night by far, though, was The Cure – Robert Smith was phenomenal. At the end of the gig we walked it back to the hotel and it was a fair distance. I’d been a bit disappointed that water wasn’t free at the venue and the toilets were not as good as in Madrid but the venue was pretty good to say it was built over a canal full of mosquitos. We were both bit quite badly and had to take antihistamines before bed – so rock and roll!

Gratitude List
1. Making it from Sofia to Plovdiv, despite an early start
2. Staying at Old Legends hotel
3. Day 1 of the Phillgood Festival and getting to experience live music again.

Sofia – 16th July

After a great night’s sleep and breakfast at Hotel Niky on Thursday 16th July, we were off to explore Sofia. The train from the airport had been just 80 cents (70p) and the local tram just 50 cents (43p) so it was probably the cheapest transport in a capital city that I’d encountered. We did have to pay cash at each ticket machine, though.
Our morning had us walking a lot in sunny Sofia, admiring the buildings and some of the ruins. I loved the town as I tried to keep up the pace with Captain Caveman!
Around 1pm we went for lunch at a place we had researched to try some local Bulgarian food.

Hadjidraganov’s Cellars was a traditional and authentic Bulgarian restaurant where we splashed out on a mixed grill sharing plate, with bread that we didn’t need, and 2 half litre beers for €47.33 (£40.52). It was quite pricey for a lunch stop but it was incredible and massive!
We paid the bill and wandered the city some more until one of us needed the loo and we had a tea and a coffee in a cafe for €3.60 (£3.08).

We walked to the train station by which time my blisters were coming back and we attempted to buy train tickets from Sofia to Plovdiv, in advance of our trip to the Phillgood festival. Unfortunately, neither of us had accounted for the fact that all the trains were sold out already. We tried the automated ticket machine and asked a lady at the counter but got nowhere. We marched off to the nearby bus station but the kiosk we needed was unmanned. We soon found out why when a worker started shouting in English that there were no more buses available to Plovdiv as they were all full. Crikey! What were we going to do?
Captain Caveman loves to solve problems so he strode off back to the train station, determined to find an alternative way. Meanwhile I looked at prices of taxis from Sofia to Plovdiv, £200+ was not going to happen and I really didn’t fancy hitchhiking! We couldn’t miss it as we were going for Captain Caveman’s birthday, so I was getting a bit upset and stressed!

Having been particularly disappointed at not being able to get any transport from Sofia to Plovdiv, Captain Caveman had come up with a cunning plan. We were due to checkout of Hotel Niky at noon tomorrow and get to Plovdiv any time we could in readiness for the Phillgood festival. What we hadn’t considered until now was checking what trains went any time between now and before the first sold out train tomorrow. The idea being, we sacrifice our last night in Sofia and just get to Plovdiv on any train we could. Back to the train station automated ticket machine we trotted and started looking at other options. Low and behold the plan worked and we got 2 seats on a train at 5.30am from Sofia to Plovdiv. We celebrated with more walking but this time to a craft beer bar. We had crisps and 2 beers, then 2 more beers and chatted to the lovely owner who gave Captain Caveman his map, who then took a photo of it and gave it back to give to the next person. We loved it in there and got chatting to a tourist and a guide before heading off to another bar.

The 5 Corners pub was like a tardis and completely surprising from how the outside looked. We had pints of Stout and Hoegaarden beer, chips & cheese and a sausage plate which was fantastic. The price was cheap too, at only €24.40 (£21) but Captain Caveman noticed the bar man had not added his extra beer on so he rounded it up when the guy said it didn’t matter.
We went back to Hotel Niky to pack and let them know we wouldn’t be at breakfast and were checking out before 5am. It was a 24 hour reception so they were fine with that and we got some much needed sleep and set all the alarms – we were still off to Plovdiv!

Gratitude List

1. Lunch at Hadjidraganov’s Cellars

2. Booking 2 train tickets to Plovdiv

3. Having an amazing day in Sofia with Captain Caveman.

London to Bulgaria – 15th July

I’d been away from Dalyan’s Fat Club for so long now that the weigh day on Wednesday 15th July almost felt pointless. Luckily, we Fat Club ladies have a group chat and they are 2 hours ahead in Türkiye so there were already messages – mainly encouraging and humourous. It’s great because it keeps me conscious of trying to maintain some semblance of sensible eating and I do miss the group a lot when I’m not there. So, I got on the scales in Barnes and took my measurements (I always carry my tape measure). I was shocked to find I had lost 1.5kg (3.3lb), lost 2cm from my bust, no change to my hips but had put 2cm on my waist. I was pleased with that but I now still needed to lose quite a bit more to get back to my target weight.
What I didn’t realise is that Captain Caveman had done his work for the week, was now on holiday and was sat playing Bridge on his phone when I came back from the bakery. I’d been to get croissants from Gail’s but there was a massive queue. A cute dog alerted me to a counter at another bakery a few doors down, he was waiting to be served and there were dog biscuits on the counter. I paid £6.20 for a croissant and a pain au chocolat, the dog biscuits were free so my new pal got given one for helping me. There was no sign of an owner but the dog was obviously a local.
After me cramming in some work, we left Barnes at midday. We said farewell to Captain Caveman’s Ma but I only shouted up ‘bye’ to Pa, who I hope had his hearing aid switched on. Captain Caveman’s parents are always so welcoming and accommodating so I was actually sad to be leaving.
We got the bus back to Heathrow airport (again) ready for our 3.25pm BA flight to Sofia. We were off to Bulgaria for the Phillgood festival in Plovdiv and were really looking forward to seeing more bands.
On our way through a precinct in Hammersmith we nipped in Tesco to stock up on meal deals for dinner as we didn’t want to be spending money unnecessarily in the airport or on the plane. We paid £12 for 2 meal deals which included a chicken katsu bento box for me and a sandwich for Captain Caveman. We both had a snack and a smoothie too.

The flight to Sofia went as planned and we landed in to Sofia where we were staying for 2 nights. The navigation of the train/metro from the airport to our hotel was easy and it wasn’t busy at 9pm. We arrived at Hotel Niky which I had booked with Resort Expert’s for an excellent price and it was very comfy and in a great location. Captain Caveman decided we would pop to an ale house for beer and sausages but it was closed. Instead we ended up at a lovely pizza restaurant on the main street. At La Piazzetta we ordered a beer and a red wine and 2 pizzas. The wine serving was massive and so were the pizzas. Captain Caveman had a spicy one and I had a BBQ chicken. They tasted great and it wasn’t expensive – Captain Caveman paid.
Back at the hotel, it was late so we were looking forward to a good sleep and exploring Sofia tomorrow – neither of us had been before.

Gratitude List
1. Losing weight this week
2. Being able to stay in Barnes again
3. Another trip away to somewhere new, with Captain Caveman.

Madrid to London – 12th July

Our British Airways flight from Madrid to Heathrow on Sunday 12th July was at 7pm so we had plenty of time to recover from the fabulous 4 day Mad Cool festival. My job was to clean the apartment and Captain Caveman’s job was to make sure the bin was out and the property was secure and the AC off. I thought I’d done a good job of cleaning the apartment, including the bathroom so I was a bit cheesed off that Captain Caveman decided to use it afterwards – I cleaned it again. At 1.30pm we went for lunch at a lovely tapas restaurant which Captain Caveman’s brother had recommended to us. El Guichi was small with excellent service and the staff spoke English. We took wine recommendations from the owner and had a few dishes to share. We had pork, croquettes, tortilla, a toast with meat on and 2 glasses of wine each for a total of €39.50 (£33.86). It was very tasty and quite filling, if we hadn’t had to get off to the airport I could easily have stayed longer.
Our flight ended up delayed so we had a beverage and a sandwich in the airport. Our seats on the plane were the back ones, near the toilet which is always good for me!
We arrived back in to Heathrow and had to get a replacement bus which was absolutely rammed. It also took a long time and we ended up back in Barnes very late, so we went straight to bed, knowing the working day tomorrow would be a long tiring one!

Gratitude List
1. A lovely tapas lunch with Captain Caveman in Madrid
2. Being able to stay in a wonderful apartment in Madrid
3. Having sandwiches and drinks for dinner in Madrid airport.

Madrid – 11th July

The Black Crows, The Reytons, Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds, Kasabian, David Byrne and Pulp were all playing at the last day (4) of the Mad Cool Festival in Madrid on Saturday 11th July.
As much as we had enjoyed the last 3 days of music festival going, I was looking forward to this line up the most. Due to the overlap and the red hot sun we needed to make important decisions. We’d already had a lay in, we’d doubled down on the rehydration tablets so much that I was now peeing like a racehorse with a bladder infection, and the blister plasters on my toes had been replaced! We set off on our last train to the venue, armed with water bottles, sweets, a sun hat and a good bra (just for me, not Captain Caveman). The heat was relentless and we had to stop off for a beer and a Clara at a roadside bar along the way. The bar owner was the only one serving and spoke no English, in fact if you spoke English he ignored you. I don’t speak Spanish (unless you count knowing the entire Spanish lyrics to a Gloria Estefan song!) so I gave it my best shot; “Una cerveza y una cerveza con Fanta de limón, por favor”.
A Spanish couple next to me, congratulated me on my desperate Spanish speaking attempt, just to get served, and I had drinks, with lots of ice in. I took the drinks to a table outside where the stools were hot to sit on! I chucked an ice cube under my sun hat and one in my sturdy bra and started to feel less overheated. We got chatting to the only English bellends for miles and then, after another round of drinks (ordered in Spanish) and with ice, we made an exit!
At the venue we were just too hot to be able to stand in the sun to listen to the Black Crows. It was 44°C at 7.50pm so we went in to the only shady spot we could find, sat on the grass and ate our packed lunch before it melted!

We missed the Reytons in favour of the main stagers, Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds. From the minute they came on to the end of their set, Captain Caveman and I were in awe of Nick Cave! He gave one of the best performances that I’ve ever seen at a gig, impressively walking on hands and shoulders of the crowd, whilst singing! I could now see what Kylie saw in this geezer! He did a fantastic jam-packed 2 hour set which ended at midnight and then we rushed over to the 2nd stage to watch David Byrne.

I am totally biased as I absolutely love David Byrne and it was one of the reasons for me being there as I think he is amazing live. I was a little dubious with him being on the 2nd stage and it being so close to the main stage, where Pulp were due on soon. We’d also missed Kasabian on stage 2 as Nick Cave had held us captive.
There was a bit of faffing about with sound and David, understandably, was making sure the sound was right. The crowds were massive and I was apprehensive of getting too near, Captain Caveman was now getting annoyed at me not liking to be crowded in so he went over to Stage 1 to watch Pulp. He’d not seen them before, but me being from the same city had, so I made the decision to stick with David.
I’m glad I did, he was amazing and did all the favourite songs. He did an hour and finished with Burning Down the House, ironically he had no idea at the time that Spain would be having some horrendous fires.

I ran over to rejoin Captain Caveman at Pulp (we always set up an easy to find meeting point) and he was really enjoying the last act of the night and the 4 day event. Jarvis was great and I particularly enjoyed Babies and Disco 2000 which took us up to 2am!!!
It was sad that it had finished but the last 4 days had really worn me out! My top 3 favourites had been the Foo Fighters, Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds and David Byrne.
We got the last train back and the walk up back to the apartment for the last time was slow. Tomorrow we were back off to London after one of the most amazing times which I would remember for a very long time! Captain Caveman and I both agreed it had been one of the best music events we had ever been to (so far)!

Gratitude List
1. Surviving Day 4 of Mad Cool and the whole festival in very hot temperatures
2. Being so desperate for a cold drink that I managed to conjure up a bit of Spanish lingo
3. Seeing musical legends such as Nick Cave and David Byrne.

Babies

Disco 2000 – contains flashing lights

Madrid – 10th July

Before we even contemplated leaving the apartment in Madrid on Friday 10th July, I read that fans of Twenty One Pilots had been queuing since stupid o’clock this morning ready for tonight’s performance at the Mad Cool festival. People were suffering from heat stroke and there had been incidents of medical attention being needed. I had a morning of work and then we popped to Lidl to replenish the food stocks. Here’s what we bought with prices in Euros;

Lidl Supermarket
2 bread rolls 0.58
Onion 0.84
2 apples 0.88
Crisps 0.92
Coffee 0.95
Bread 0.99
Gazpacho 1.05
Salami 1.79
Fruit Mentos 1.99
Cheese 2.75
Total spent €12.74 (£10.90)

Captain Caveman was still feeling a bit dehydrated so he had a coffee drink and a cold Gazpacho drink to sort him out a bit. My blisters were pretty bad so we called in the pharmacy where I bought Blister plasters for €5 (£4.28) and some effervescent rehydration tablets for €9.80 (£8.38). There was a fire engine near the apartment and we thought it was a fire or a cat rescue, it turned out to be a falling branch.

It was insanely hot now in Madrid and we were struggling to get motivated for day 3 of the Mad Cool festival. We got there in time to see The Pixies who were excellent and definitely another highlight for us. I was particularly hopeful for Kings of Leon who followed on the big stage but they didn’t wow me as much as I thought they would. The crowd seemed to love them and maybe it was just because we were too hot. We made a sensible decision to miss the last band and leave Twenty One Pilots to the youngsters. It was still just after midnight when we got back home but the over 40°C temperatures were certainly taking their toll on us. Tomorrow was the last day and we had the horrible dilemma of at least 3 acts who were overlapping and we wanted to see them all.

Gratitude List
1. Surviving Day 3 of the Mad Cool festival
2. Seeing The Pixies
3. Blister plasters and rehydration tablets.

Madrid – 9th July

After more work and part 4 of the free challenge with Lisa Johnson on Thursday 9th July, it was time for us to go to the 2nd day of the Mad Cool festival. I had wanted to see Charlie Puth but Captain Caveman didn’t so we got there in time for Lorde. My main reason for going today was to see Teddy Swims while Captain Caveman was more interested to see Florence and the Machine. The venue was great but did not have much shade so the intense heat and the walk from the nearest station was a struggle. This time we brought our own water bottles in and put the tops in our pockets and I had some sweets to see me through the crowded metro. We ate food before we went so that we didn’t have to spend money unnecessarily on festival food. The drinks were quite pricey but it was so hot that we mainly stuck to drinking water to keep hydrated. Teddy Swims was very good but, as he was not on the main stage, I did feel the sound wasn’t as good as it could’ve been. We’d been spoiled by just how good the Foo Fighters had been yesterday too. Florence and the Machine were on the main stage and excellent but Captain Caveman had overdone it. The last song finished at 2am as Captain Caveman roused from a little snooze, leaning up against a barrier. We got the bus back to near Atocha station and walked back from there, desperately needing the loo and suffering from blisters on my feet!

Gratitude List
1. Surviving Day 2 of Mad Cool in very hot sun
2. Seeing Lorde, Teddy Swims and Florence & the Machine
3. Getting home at just after 3am completely exhausted.

Photo Credit – some photos from the Mad Cool Facebook page

Madrid – 8th July

It was late when we arrived in Atocha, Madrid, so we went straight to bed. We were awake quite early on Wednesday 8th July and had slept well in Captain Caveman’s niece’s room while the family were on holiday. The apartment was stylish and lovely, we were very grateful we were able to stay there. In the morning, I attended the 3rd session of the Offline Challenge with Lisa Johnson and did a little bit of work before Captain Caveman decided we were off for breakfast and the supermarket. We found a nearby cute cafe called Armonia which we both ordered the open style sandwiches at. Captain Caveman ordered an avocado and turkey while I got brave and tried a bacon, cheese, rocket, caramelised onion and pistachio. It was probably one of the nicest sandwiches I’d had and it wasn’t that expensive, Captain Caveman paid. I had my meal with tea, Captain Caveman with a double espresso and we both had water.
Our next stop was to Lidl where we bought the following, prices in Euros;

Lidl Supermarket
1 bag 0.15
Crisps 0.92
Beese spread 1.35
Salami 1.79
Cherry tomatoes 1.95
Cheese 2.29
Avocados 2.49
Grapes 2.49
Bread 2.69
Cherries 2.99
Total spent €19.11 (£16.37)

This shopping would form the ingredients for most of our meals while we were there.

In the afternoon I had arranged to meet Emma, the Lanzarote Resort Expert, and her husband Huse. By complete coincidence they were also going to the Mad Cool Festival but just for day 1 so we arranged to meet in town and grab some food before the gig. Despite doing the same job in different places, Emma and I had never met in person so we were both looking forward to it. We arrived a little late because we had an issue with the barrier at the metro station but we soon got acquainted and started walking down the street. We ended up going to a cafe which had an eclectic mix of dishes. Captain Caveman and I had tapas, I had a Clara and he had wine.
The Metro to the venue was absolutely rammed and I had another mini meltdown because I was too hot and it was crowded. Captain Caveman would not let me get off at an earlier stop as he said it would be miles to walk so I had to stay on. A Spanish lady lent me her fan but I was very claustrophobic and panicky so Captain Caveman had to fan me until the lady who’s fan it was got off.
When we got to the venue, it was a long walk in very hot sun and then we got in the wrong queue for our wrist bands and had to start again. Once inside we had a wander round, took some photos to send to the Resort Experts group chat and got a drink at the bar. At the bar, we had a delay as it was not only cashless, you couldn’t pay on card either and had to top up your wristband with a QR code using your bank card before going to the bar. Luckily, a guy in the know told us what we needed to do as it wasn’t very clear. The cups were reusable and you had to give a deposit of €2 per cup. I’m not down with the kids so Captain Caveman topped his band up with €50 and we would see how far that got us. There was a limited choice of drinks so I took a chance on Tinto de Verano (red wine with lemonade) which was better for me than the Mahou lager.

Wolf Alice was on the main stage and seemed to be drawing the crowds. I’d not heard of her before and as the 2nd stage had on The War on Drugs half way through, we got to hear a bit of both. There were no seated areas near the main 2 stages so we found somewhere to perch near the bar and VIP area but trying to avoid the sun was hard. We didn’t really see much of Emma and Huse after that as they were there specifically for the Foo Fighters and went right to the front. They had to leave as soon as it finished as they had a flight back to Lanzarote first thing tomorrow. I’d not been a fan of the Foo Fighters particularly but they played a 3 hour non-stop & rivetting set. They were probably one of the best live bands I’ve ever seen and I was so impressed.
The portaloos and the free drinking water at Mad Cool also made the festival much more pleasant. They didn’t allow any drinks in or for you to take a water bottle in with a top on (just the bottle) so we ended up buying a bottle in there then topping it up at the free water stations. The venue was pretty well organised and when we came to leave, it was crowded but not horrendous. We got back to our temporary home at about 2am, absolutely shattered. We went to bed thinking we needed to improve on a few things for tomorrow if we were to survive another 3 days of the Mad Cool festival in the intense Madrid heat.

Gratitude List
1. Being lucky enough to stay in Captain Caveman’s brother’s home
2. Getting to meet Emma, the Lanzarote Resort Expert, and her hubby in Madrid
3. The phenomenal performance of the Foo Fighters at the Mad Cool Festival.