After a great night’s sleep and breakfast at Hotel Niky on Thursday 16th July, we were off to explore Sofia. The train from the airport had been just 80 cents (70p) and the local tram just 50 cents (43p) so it was probably the cheapest transport in a capital city that I’d encountered. We did have to pay cash at each ticket machine, though.
Our morning had us walking a lot in sunny Sofia, admiring the buildings and some of the ruins. I loved the town as I tried to keep up the pace with Captain Caveman!
Around 1pm we went for lunch at a place we had researched to try some local Bulgarian food.

Hadjidraganov’s Cellars was a traditional and authentic Bulgarian restaurant where we splashed out on a mixed grill sharing plate, with bread that we didn’t need, and 2 half litre beers for €47.33 (£40.52). It was quite pricey for a lunch stop but it was incredible and massive!
We paid the bill and wandered the city some more until one of us needed the loo and we had a tea and a coffee in a cafe for €3.60 (£3.08).

We walked to the train station by which time my blisters were coming back and we attempted to buy train tickets from Sofia to Plovdiv, in advance of our trip to the Phillgood festival. Unfortunately, neither of us had accounted for the fact that all the trains were sold out already. We tried the automated ticket machine and asked a lady at the counter but got nowhere. We marched off to the nearby bus station but the kiosk we needed was unmanned. We soon found out why when a worker started shouting in English that there were no more buses available to Plovdiv as they were all full. Crikey! What were we going to do?
Captain Caveman loves to solve problems so he strode off back to the train station, determined to find an alternative way. Meanwhile I looked at prices of taxis from Sofia to Plovdiv, £200+ was not going to happen and I really didn’t fancy hitchhiking! We couldn’t miss it as we were going for Captain Caveman’s birthday, so I was getting a bit upset and stressed!

Having been particularly disappointed at not being able to get any transport from Sofia to Plovdiv, Captain Caveman had come up with a cunning plan. We were due to checkout of Hotel Niky at noon tomorrow and get to Plovdiv any time we could in readiness for the Phillgood festival. What we hadn’t considered until now was checking what trains went any time between now and before the first sold out train tomorrow. The idea being, we sacrifice our last night in Sofia and just get to Plovdiv on any train we could. Back to the train station automated ticket machine we trotted and started looking at other options. Low and behold the plan worked and we got 2 seats on a train at 5.30am from Sofia to Plovdiv. We celebrated with more walking but this time to a craft beer bar. We had crisps and 2 beers, then 2 more beers and chatted to the lovely owner who gave Captain Caveman his map, who then took a photo of it and gave it back to give to the next person. We loved it in there and got chatting to a tourist and a guide before heading off to another bar.

The 5 Corners pub was like a tardis and completely surprising from how the outside looked. We had pints of Stout and Hoegaarden beer, chips & cheese and a sausage plate which was fantastic. The price was cheap too, at only €24.40 (£21) but Captain Caveman noticed the bar man had not added his extra beer on so he rounded it up when the guy said it didn’t matter.
We went back to Hotel Niky to pack and let them know we wouldn’t be at breakfast and were checking out before 5am. It was a 24 hour reception so they were fine with that and we got some much needed sleep and set all the alarms – we were still off to Plovdiv!

Gratitude List

1. Lunch at Hadjidraganov’s Cellars

2. Booking 2 train tickets to Plovdiv

3. Having an amazing day in Sofia with Captain Caveman.