It was Captain Caveman’s last day in Phong Nha on Wednesday 23rd August; his caving season had ended and he would be off to Saigon tomorrow for some fun before he flew to Turkey. Meanwhile in Dalyan, for some reason, I stopped writing down what I ate as from today which meant I was likely to go off track with my Slimming World Plan. I got weighed at home and had stayed the same as last week. Strangely, my measurements were a bit unusual this week; I’d put 4cm on my bust, lost 2cm from my waist and 4cm from my hips. This was the slimmest my waist had been in ages and was only 2cm away from my target. I still had Fat Club Carol’s scales to face this afternoon so I would see how I did there. I popped to the bank to withdraw some cash as I was running low and had a leisurely morning. I checked flights to Naples and found that for me they were around £130 one way, via London or Istanbul. For my parents they were only around £25 from Manchester. I messaged Kelly who was already on her way here, to ask about plans for meeting later. Fikri was already booked for a taxi to pick Kelly up from Dalaman airport when she landed at 9.35pm and take her to BC Spa, where she was staying for 5 nights. We agreed to play it by ear for this evening as she wasn’t certain how late it would be or how tired she might feel and would text me when she got to the hotel. At Fat Club I had also stayed the same as last week which was a bit disappointing but, not a loss. On my way home I did a bit of shopping and here’s what I got, with prices in lira.
Migros Supermarket
Green tea 16.90 UHT skimmed milk 20.50 1 can boiled beans 21.50 6 eggs 27.75 2 cans of pink grapefruit drink 30.00 Walnuts 44.50 Fabric Softener 67.50 Total spent 228.65 lira (£6.72)
Şok Supermarket
Plastic bag 0.25 Washing powder 175.25 Total spent 175.50 lira (£5.16)
Again, I’d made the sensible choice not to go to Rehab bar to meet the pool gang and be tempted to drink too much alcohol. I did eat macaroni cheese balls done in the airfryer for lunch which was a bit naughty and not diet friendly at all. I sat on the balcony and chilled out a bit but the new holiday renters staying in the apartment opposite were very noisy, especially the father of the English family. They spent hours in the pool as it was still hot at 6pm, I couldn’t fault them even though I still hadn’t been in our pool yet. For dinner I tried something new, airfryer cauliflower steaks and roasted veggies which I had on the balcony with a vodka and grapefruit.
At 11pm, Kelly contacted me from the hotel and was up for meeting up. I walked over to BC Spa and we had a big hug – it had been far too long! Thinking we would just go somewhere nearby, I suggested Okyanus for a drink and a catch up but it might have been the wrong choice. We ordered a bottle of white wine and Kelly had not had dinner so she asked our friendly waiter, Bakı, if she could just have tomatoes and cucumbers as a salad. He was very obliging and I’ve known him for some years now. He took a bit of a shine to Kelly so we couldn’t enjoy much of a private conversation without him joining us – one of the downsides of living in paradise but Kelly didn’t mind. I walked Kelly back the short distance to BC Spa where she had a lovely room and we arranged to meet tomorrow, ready for Clare arriving. I got in just after 1am and was so excited to have seen Kelly again, this next few days was going to be amazing!
I took full advantage of not having to work on Monday 21st August. Molly, the cat, was not a fan of joining me for a selfie but she didn’t mind posing for a solo photo. By 9am she was snoozy and I was admiring the view. Back home I had quark, fruit and black tea which was not alleviating my eczema one bit. For lunch I had more of the chicken and carrot (with chickpeas) curry which I had with egg fried rice.
In the evening I attended a ladies only (plus Jamie) boat trip which Adele and I had organised. Onboard were the following people: Viv, Nanny Kay, Jamie, Angela & Lynda (from Dalaman), Janice (aka Lily Fish), Ann, Monique, Rach, Adele and, of course, me. Captain Fuat and his boat were more traditional which is just what we wanted for our moonlight boat trip. It was the first time I’d met him and I was pleased with Adele’s choice. We decided that we would head out in the afternoon to Köyceğiz so that any last minute shopping could be enjoyed. Jamie, Ann and I enjoyed a bottle of wine near the harbour at a bar where they had to call the manager to bring the wine fridge keys.
Back on board the boat, Fuat sailed to a quiet spot so we could have a sunset swim. He had bought us a couple of bottles of nice fizz and had cooked a traditional Turkish dinner for our evening meal. The soup starter was homemade and delicious and the casserole for main was exceptional. Captain Fuat served fruit, including fresh figs from his own garden too. We got back at gone 11pm, having had a lovely evening. I’d spent 1250 lira (£36.72); which included the boat and 5 wines so I was very merry and had thoroughly enjoyed myself.
I was up and about early on Friday 18th August, ready for a boat trip. It was the first one this month – the last one I went on was 3 weeks ago. I checked on, played with and fed Molly, the cat, and I gave her some extra treats, seeing as I wouldn’t be back at lunch time. Back home, I ate overnight oats with peach and quark for breakfast before getting ready to meet friends, Penny and Phil. They had invited me on a boat trip with them, their family and a friend, so I’d made sure I wasn’t working today. We were going on Kingfisher boat which was costing 750 lira (£22.22) each and included lunch. The boat was nice, although quite full so I could see why it was slightly cheaper than a usual trip, due to the amount of people joining. We had a biscuit and a cup of tea then sailed towards Ekincik with a few other boats near to us. Today the sea was very choppy and I had to take a sea sickness tablet. I didn’t think that the first stop looked calm enough for swimming so I stayed on the boat but some of the kids were already jumping off the top deck. A couple of the mothers of the children didn’t seem to care or notice until the captain called everyone back in and we moved on. As there were 3 kids in our party I decided not to drink alcohol until later, it was a family trip not a booze up. The lunch was plentiful, although not the best I’ve had on a boat trip but then I’ve been spoiled with the ones we choose. When I did have a wine I decided to have white with soda water. Our last swim stop was very calm and the water was so clear. We all bobbed about chatting and having a good laugh. On our return back to Dalyan I had another white wine and soda, which I sipped, as I was trying to be good. I got rather a shock when I got the bill as the small Harman wines were 120 lira (£3.54) each and the soda water was 40 lira (£1.18)each. 160 lira (£4.72) is the most I’ve paid in Dalyan for a wine and soda water. A small beer was 80 lira (£2.36) which I’d have been better having but I didn’t think. I did query it with the waitress and the captain’s wife but they do charge the same for a soda water as a soft drink. We were back in Dalyan dead on 5pm too, which was a bit early but it did mean I could be with Molly, the cat, earlier than I anticipated. I fed Molly and spent a bit of time with her, she was pleased to see me but Tez said she’d been galavanting with a boyfriend! By 7pm I was having an airfryer quesadilla as I was peckish. I even had cheesespread on wholemeal toast before bed. Tomorrow I promised myself a healthy relaxing day and had already decided I would have an alcohol free day.
I didn’t bother with breakfast on Thursday 3rd August and got straight on with my work for the day. I had a late lunch of beans on toast and finished work around 3.15pm so that I could pack and go to meet Mark and Kate. They were having drinks in Jiks with Adam and Kath prior to flying back to England that evening. They bought me a pint of Efes and I got a lift back to their’s so that I could move in to cat sit their 6 cats for a week. I shared a beer with Mark and Kate before their taxi came at 7.15pm and they said goodbye. Kate had agreed to bring me some Yorkshire tea and a much needed 2024 diary, which I was really looking forward to. Both JC and Kylie, 2 of the 6 cats were wanting a bit of attention so I sat outside with them for quite a while.
By 7.30am on Friday 4th August I had fed the cats and hung out the washing at Mark and Kate’s house. After her breakfast, Casha (Kate’s favourite cat) had got on the bed in the spare room for a snooze so I took a photo to send to Kate. I watered the numerous plants in the garden, I couldn’t find any Yorkshire tea so I just had what was in the jar next to the kettle and didn’t bother with any breakfast. I also got on with helping to organise a ladies night boat trip with Adele for later in the month. I had beans on toast for lunch (again) and I paid Leanne for the AC fixing at our apartment before putting my new bikini on for the first time so that I could have a dip in the pool. I swam a lot, lounged about and generally relaxed – I even got the Mike Tyson autobiography back out to read more of. It was only 31°C when I went out there but it got to 40°C later on and I had to go back indoors. I did some work on Sausage Dick’s Vietnam itinerary as he was going in March 2024 and I noticed that LC Waikiki, a shop in Turkey, were now selling the porter sandals we wore in Phong Nha. I had a cheese roll from the fridge and some pasta for dinner before calling it a night once it got back down to 31°C. Tomorrow, I had another exciting day planned!
It was a day of fun on Saturday 29th July on another Princess of Ekincik boat trip to welcome Annie back to Dalyan. By 10am we had set sail as we drank our morning brew with a cookie. Onboard we had a nice eclectic mix of people; Jackie & Chris, Viv, Linda, Adele, a Turkish couple, a Dutch couple, Annie and me. We had a great BBQ lunch and some amazing swim stops and we even got to do something I’d never done before.
Adele asked Captain Ismail if we could moor up near to The Rock so that, those who wanted to, could swim around it. Adele, Annie, Chris and I managed to swim around it in the fairly choppy sea and it was really lovely. We had a laugh with the Turkish guest who was rather big and hilarious at getting himself on and off the paddle board. On another one of our swim spots we were warned very clearly by Ismail to stay away from the sea urchins. The Dutch guy, who had never been to Dalyan or a boat trip before proceeded to ignore this and ended up with six spikes in his foot. Our Captain had to remove them with tweezers and the man was clearly in agony.
The Rock we swam around.
The food, as always, was incredible and I washed it down with a couple of glasses of rosé wine which were 100 lira (£2.98) for a decent measure. It was such a lovely day that I don’t think Annie, Adele and I wanted it to end. It nearly didn’t end well when there was a problem with the boat’s engine. Luckily, Captain Boris was due to pass and he helped tow us back to Dalyan.
The 3 of us plus Chris and Jackie decided to pop for one drink at Tez bar. Tez had a nice bottle of rosé wine for just 350 lira (£10.42) so Adele, Annie and I shared that. It was nice to sit and relax while deciding if we might go for food. After saying goodbye to Adele, Chris and Jackie, Annie and I popped back to mine for a quick shower before dinner. We had booked a table at Duble, one of our favourite eateries in the old market square. I’d not been there in ages so it was nice to visit and we had a veritable feast between us; cheese rolls, liver and onions, bread and dips to start followed by chicken shish and Adana kebab for our mains – all washed down with another bottle of rosé wine. Our meal with wine was a reasonable 700 lira (£20.83) each, it was amazing and I had leftovers to take home. I’d loved my day and night out and it was brilliant to spend time with Annie who was due back again in a couple of months.
Photo credit – Annie Miller for some of her photos
It was Gayle, Neil, Morgan and April’s last day and night in Dalyan on Sunday 23rd July as they were leaving tomorrow morning. They had planned to have a cleaning, tidying and packing day followed by lounging and swimming round the pool for their last day. They had booked to go out for a meal and I was going to have another day off. We’d had a great time and, surprisingly, not one fall out or complaint. In the afternoon I got flight confirmation from my friends, Kelly and Clare, who were coming to visit me next month. I was looking forward to seeing them after 4 years of not being able to see each other. Later, I went over to where my sister and family were staying and we had a dip in the pool. Some friends from Fethiye and Mark stopped by just to say hello and I met them at the gate for a few minutes. When I went back in, the family were getting ready and said I should join them for their last dinner out in Dalyan.
I’ve not been to La Bohème this year, it was very busy but we had a reserved table by the river, overlooking the rock tombs. We decided cocktails would be a good idea and I ordered a pornstar martini. We shared the meze plate for starters and each of us ordered some really good main courses. My surf and turf was one of the best meals I’d had in Dalyan. We shared wine and had a brilliant last night celebrating a wonderful holiday. As we came to pay the bill, there was a power cut which meant we all had to put our cash in to pay.
The girls weren’t too pleased about that as they had been promised a look round the shops. A lot of the shops were unable to take card payments but we did find a couple that could so the girls could get some souvenirs. On our walk back towards home we decided that it wouldn’t be a farewell send off without a quick drink in Bistro Blue. We must have left about 12.30am as I have a receipt for the drinks at that time and the electric in Dalyan was back on.
I was lucky enough to be invited on an amazing private boat trip on Friday 21st July. After a gap in the itinerary had presented itself, Neil had decided he’d quite like to enjoy some time with just the family, out at sea. The 4 of them had asked me to join their full day and evening on the Princess of Ekincik boat, which they had managed to book for exclusive use at the last minute. We were bright eyed and bushy-tailed, ready to set sail, at 10am. We had tea/coffee and biscuits while Captain Ismail took us out towards the Devil’s Bay area. Our first swim stop was lovely and the water felt amazing in our deserted little bay.
Our lunch had some of the best tasting mezes I’ve had this year and they took in to account all our allergies and requirements. The meat was top quality and the hygiene second to none. We had an absolute feast of a BBQ lunch and we were all stuffed. We set sail just as the sea got choppy and I had to take a sea sickness pill (just as a precaution). Captain Ismail was very adept at getting us through the fairly choppy sea and he sailed further out and then across to save us getting too disturbed as we lounged and sipped on iced tea or rosé wine.
It was getting quite hot and a tad humid as we got to the next swim stop which had crystal clear deep water. We were the only ones there, at 5pm, because most boats were on their way back from the day trips and the moonlight ones were not out yet. I felt so lucky that we could do this on such a lovely boat, great setting and one of the best crews in Dalyan.
By 6pm we were making our way to Little Dalyan, behind the beach, where we would stay for our last swim stop, dinner, sunset then stargazing. Neil and Gayle had a walk across the beach to the sea, the girls went paddle boarding and then we tried our luck at crab fishing. I’ve never been a fan and have thought it cruel however I did catch 3! Neil, being the fisherman of the family, caught the most.
As we watched the sun go down, we ate a delightful chicken casserole with rice, salad, bread and the BBQ crab. It was my first time eating crab and I was a bit concerned in case I was allergic to it. Ismail showed us how to get the meat from the shell and he opened mine for me. It was so fresh and tasty with no allergic reaction. There was lots more rosé wine had and we all loved the trip.
We got back to Dalyan after 10pm and, as we sailed in, the air felt very different than it had out at the beach. It seemed to be several degrees hotter and very suffocating, we all noticed it and started to sweat straight away. The humidity levels had increased and, despite there being no sun, the temperature seemed to be extreme for an evening. We paid our bills, said our thanks and goodbyes to Ivona, Ismail and Ege – we knew this wouldn’t be the last trip with them this year!
I had another lovely day with Gayle, Neil, Morgan and April on Thursday 20th July. While they were all getting ready, I had been to the bank to draw out more money. It had only been 3 months since I was living off 1400 lira (£41.86) for the week but now 3000 lira (£89.69) wasn’t lasting more than a few days with going out and about more. I bought more credit and data for my Turkish phone which was now 160 lira (£4.78) per month, compared to 110 lira (£3.29) last time.
Today’s itinerary was a little bit laid back as I met up with the family for a late breakfast/brunch. They’d been wanting to try Ela’s Kitchen as they fancied checking out all the hype about the place. I think I’d mentioned that both the menemen and Sev’s sausage had been recommended so they were keen to see. As there were 5 of us, I’d had the common sense to send a cheeky message to book us in and I’m glad we did. About 5 minutes after we got sat down the place was full. Nicola greeted us all with a smile and took our orders for water and hot drinks while we checked out the menu. This is what we ordered (mine without egg or tomato, my niece without tomato) with prices in lira:
2 large waters 70 1 Yorkshire tea 60 2 iced caramel coffees 160 3 Coffees 210 1 omelette 230 1 Menemen 230 1 Sausage Baguette 255 1 mini full English breakfast 255 1 large full English 375
Total spent 1845 lira (£55.16). All the food was delicious and the portions extremely generous, even for a Fat Club Chubster like me! Of course, pork is an expensive product in Turkey so it’s not surprising that the breakfasts containing English bacon and sausages were the most expensive. Recently, businesses had been struggling to get the pork products and the prices of it were constantly increasing. Our maveraged at £11 per person with the drinks so not bad for what we had. We all really enjoyed our food and we were stuffed, looking forward to a leisurely afternoon.
Our next destination was Iztuzu beach, where we got the cooperative boat to for 100 lira (£2.99) return. We had a nice chilled out few hours in the red hot sun, we used all the spare clothes we had to put on the rattan parasols to stop the sun coming through. We all went in the sea and I even had a Magnum, I don’t normally have an ice cream as they don’t really agree with me.
Later, we got the boat back and went back to our respective apartments to get ready for dinner. I’d arranged for the 5 of us to eat at Hotel Dalyance where they had Turkish Day on. This meant we could choose a main Turkish meat dish from a select menu and a cocktail, beer or glass of wine for just 499 lira (£14.92). This seemed like a good offer as well as a way to introduce the family to a bit of Turkish cuisine. April was the only one to not order from the Turkish menu, even though she had chosen steak most nights out so far. She ordered chicken fajitas, Neil went for the Adana kebab, while the rest of us all ordered Ottoman kebab. I had red wine, the others ordered cocktails then Neil ordered a bottle of rosé to go with dinner. The food was nicely presented and definitely a little different to what we had been having. I really enjoyed my dinner but I think Neil and Gayle are used to a more generous serving. A few of us had the cheesecake dessert which is really nice at Hotel Dalyance and Neil had ordered a second bottle of wine. It was a good night but Gayle had got the taste for it and fancied going on for another drink somewhere. We ended up seeing Jamie and his 2 friends (Nick and Mark) in Aşkın bar so we joined them for one. It turned in to two(!) and we had a right laugh before finally going home about 1am. I’d had a great time but I was a bit concerned we may end up with a casualty for tomorrow’s itinerary plans if we stayed out much longer.
It was Captain Caveman’s birthday on Tuesday 18th July and he was off on a bit of a holiday within Vietnam. He’d been disappointed not to be working as he’s usually down the cave on his birthday. Luckily, seeing the monkeys and pangolins at Cuc Phuong National Park animal rescue centre managed to make his birthday a little bit different. I was sad to not be there with him but I wouldn’t enjoy the humidity and we had much more exciting things planned, including a trip that Captain Caveman had helped shape a few years ago.
I worked from 10.30am until 3.45pm because we were getting picked up by Murat Deniz at 4.30pm. Gayle and I had booked for the 5 of us to go on the Galloping Seahorses trip as a private trip with Kaptan Deniz Travel and we were both terrified. Morgan loves horses so she was so up for it, April and Neil were also playing it cool and not acting scared. All the way to Göcek, my sister and I worried and discussed the feasibilities of shitting oneself on a horse. When we arrived it was a lovely place where the horses looked well cared for but Gayle and I thought the horses looked bigger than we might have anticipated. Murat did his best to put us at ease but in the end it was just a case of getting (back) on the horse. Neil was on the biggest one first, then Morgan on a horse that liked a canter (but not donkeys we found out later on), I got the new mother who was meant to be a steady bet, April’s horse was nice and well mannered while I suspected Gayle’s horse was meant to be the one that didn’t mind taking it easy. Getting on the horses was hilarious then frustrating as my leg no longer swings over and we had to push up from someone’s knee. The horse felt so high up and I realised I had not been listening to the ‘reins holding’ instructions beyond the first sentence. I asked to get back off but Murat chucked a deaf ‘un, while my sister struggled but got on. Neil was a natural, Morgan looked like a pro and April had obviously done it before but was probably embarrassed by me and her mom being such nervous Nerys’s. Gayle and I were shaking and I saw that she looked more terrified than me, there was every chance that one of us could shit our actual pants! Before we could do anything, we were off and I did all I could to keep my feet forward and hold on to the saddle I had ended up clutching, like I was on a white knuckle ride at a theme park. A few metres in, the young foals of 2 of our horses trotted by and I was more nervous.
Murat’s video of the start of our horse riding trip
By the time we got to the ‘putting our heads down to avoid tree branches’ bit, my feet were completely numb. After almost an hour, we got to a clearing that lead to the beach and I had never been so pleased to see the sea! I had a mini meltdown when I had to wait to be helped to get off my horse, Apache, but once on the beach I was a lot calmer. Gayle looked very stressed but we were both pleased to have made it this far. We were just celebrating the fact we hadn’t soiled our swimmers, and saying we’d probably walk it back to the ranch, when Murat explained we would be taking one of the most experienced horses in to the sea and riding bareback! Crikey, I didn’t think I could cope with this level of adventure!
Morgan went first with her horse in to the sea. She made it look effortless and it was amazing to watch. I decided I wouldn’t be trying that, I could barely stay on a horse with a saddle, never mind without. Although I had a bikini on beneath my jeggings and T-shirt, I decided taking them off for a dip in the sea without my towel (left back at the ranch) would be foolish as I’d never get them back on. Instead, I just took off my T-shirt, trainers and socks then got in the sea with April for a calming down dip. I also needed a nervous wee and asked April to keep a look out as I know Murat loves taking photos and I didn’t want to get caught on camera with my pants down in the sea. That’s when we spotted that we had an actual photographer with us! We swam up to the horse with Morgan on and they both seemed so happy in the sea. Neil was next and we were expecting some comedy struggles we could laugh at, but alas he managed it well. Gayle, April and I said no to the getting on the horse, walking it in to the sea and along.
Murat reassured us that we would be fine and I do love water (more than horses) so I agreed. It took me ages to get on the horse but once on, the horse was more than happy to take itself back in to the water. I don’t have a ‘bucket list’ and if I did this would never have been on it, however, it definitely should be. It was just such an amazing feeling that I will never forget and, at last, my fear was fading. Both April and Gayle also had a go and we were all pleased we did as it really was such a magical thing to do, on an almost empty beach before sunset.
Murat’s video of Morgan horseriding in the seaPhoto Credit – Murat Deniz and his team
We went back to our respective horses, had help getting back on and, this time, I held the reins properly, instead of the saddle, after rechecking with the instructor. The ride back was much more pleasant and I even managed to stop my horse, as well as get it to go around a donkey and a passing car. I couldn’t stop her from enjoying an impromptu snack from a passing tree branch though so I wasn’t quite cut out for a life as an equestrian. Back at the ranch, we were all feeling good, some of us more from relief than anything. I had agreed to go on this trip as I knew how much Morgan and April would love it, but I actually ended the horse ride adventure feeling amazed by it. Of course I had only been walking, returning possibly on a slight trot, on my horse so I wasn’t quite a fully fledged Galloping Seahorse member (yet)! The ranch guy and Murat made sure we had a limonata, a biscuit, some water and that we had all enjoyed our time before transferring Morgan all of the photos (there were hundreds). I didn’t have the phone memory so Gayle would send me them another day. I think we’d all built up a bit of a thirst and were ready for our dinner at one of Murat’s favourite spots.
As Captain Caveman’s birthday was ending in Vietnam, Murat and his driver took us for dinner at a lovely restaurant. Dalya Life Göcek Hotel, where I’d last been for a breakfast with my parents and John B on a trip not long after Covid ended, was a great place. I think my sister, Gayle, was just so happy to have survived the Galloping Seahorses trip that she wanted to celebrate. The girls ordered soft drinks but Gayle, Neil, Murat and I ordered the national drink of Turkey, Rakı. I’m not a fan of aniseed flavoured anything, but when in Rome! We had a couple and ordered food then a bottle or 2 of wine. The first one, wasn’t to our liking so we ordered a different one and we paid for the remainder of the trip and the photographer. We all agreed it had been a lovely thing to all do together and I definitely would not have done it otherwise (even Captain Caveman was expecting me not to survive it unscathed). Gayle ordered fish, Morgan had pasta, April steak with samphire, Neil something meaty that I forgot to make a note of and I went for the meatballs. I tasted some of April’s samphire and that was lovely and we all had a good meal. The journey back home was hilarious, with my sister singing along to Smokey’s ‘Who the F is Alice’ and then us all having a right old laugh at her. Murat dropped us all off at Mutlu Villas and I went in for a night cap. Gayle was that trollied that we pretended to give her gin for her second drink which was really water and she didn’t notice straight away. It had been an incredible day, one that I don’t think any of us would forget – probably not even our tour guide, Murat! I walked home just after midnight, slightly pleased that I had some work to do tomorrow while the family did yet another trip.
I worked from 11.30am to 5.45pm on Thursday 13th July so that I could accommodate the evening itinerary. I just ate plain noodles in chicken stock for lunch as we would be eating a feast tonight. It was also the hottest it had been since I’d got back to Dalyan and the temperature was over 40°C in the afternoon. I had to put the AC on! At 6.30pm Ma, Pa, Gayle, Neil, Morgan, April and I were joining a group boat trip. It was booked a while ago for us to join the Princess of Ekincik Moonlight boat trip from 6.30pm until bedtime and we were all looking forward to it. This trip allowed for a few swimming stops, the first at the lake where we were joined by a turtle while we were all in the water. Luckily, I had taken Steve’s sunglasses with me as my mom had lost her’s while I’d been away, so I gave them to her.
We had a delicious BBQ meal and went to the mud baths. Gayle and Ma had a fish foot experience while I went in the hot sulphur pool. The 3 of us went in the domes where there are hot pools and it was really nice. Captain Ismail sailed to Little Dalyan next, where we could relax, swim and walk on the beach. Later we all looked up at the sky for some star gazing and a few beverages were had. When we got back it was unusually hot in the town and we’d been lucky to have had the breeze on the boat. By 11.30pm we were saying our goodbyes and I paid my bill which was 1320 lira (£39.41) for my trip and drinks. The boat trips were definitely working out better value than going out for a meal! We had a quick drink in Tez bar before going home, just to finish off the night. Tomorrow would be another fun day in Dalyan and I was already looking forward to a celebration.
I was awake early on Monday 10th July and I was excited to be spending my first day back in Dalyan on a boat trip with my family. Ma, Pa, Gayle (sister), Neil (brother-in-law), Morgan (eldest niece) and April (youngest niece) and I had booked to join the Duran Duran boat trip to Köyceğiz market from 10am this morning. I’d already been to the bank then to get phone credit and had packed my swimmers, factor 50 and travel towel ready to take advantage of the sunny day. The weather forecast said 36°C for this afternoon and I wasn’t working today. Ma and Pa called on for me while Neil went to find a sun hat and I faffed about putting money for the market separate to my money for the boat trip.
We joined a group trip, but a private trip, and were sat having a hot beverage and a biscuit before 10am ready for our day out. The leisurely sail towards Köyceğiz and through the lake was lovely and calm, but we were all too busy talking and laughing to really enjoy the scenery. Once at Köyceğiz, the ladies headed for the market while Dad and Neil popped along to a lakeside cafe for a light beverage and to wait for us. I’d took my rucksack to stock up on fresh fruit and vegetables but when I went to get my money out, it wasn’t there. Neither was my boat trip money so I assumed I’d left it at home and had to borrow 300 lira from mom. I didn’t buy an awful lot but I did get 2 blocks of cheese, cherries and strawberries to keep me going. We rejoined the men and had a cold beverage with them, the beers were a reasonable 85 lira (£2.58) and soft drinks were 35 lira (£1.06). We were back on the boat for 1pm so that Captain Unal could take us for a swim stop, then get ready for our BBQ lunch.
The food was delicious and catered for all of our fussy and Coeliac requirements without any bother at all. Gayle and Mom had fish and Halloumi, I had chicken and halloumi and others had chicken and meatballs. There was lots of mezes and pasta for us all to have a big portion. It was so good that I didn’t even take any photos of the food as I was too busy eating it. Around 4pm we headed to the mud baths where everyone on the boat except for April and I went in. It’s optional and we were happy to admire the view and look at some goats instead. I may have had a cheeky wine while we chatted. Once everyone was back on board, Unal served fruit and cake, Sioned (Unal’s wife) had made Gayle 2 gluten free desserts which were really good. We were back to Dalyan just before 6pm and we settled up our bills. I had to pay by bank transfer on account of ‘losing/forgetting’ my cash. My boat trip plus my drinks came to 1,075 lira (£32 approx) which was a bargain for such a lovely day out.
We stopped off at Tapa, formerly River Terrace, for a drink and got chatting to the staff there. I popped home to check I had left my money there and it was on the table, which was a relief. After a couple of drinks at Tapa, we decided to chance a table for the 7 of us at My Arancia restaurant, part of the Doğa hotel. The owner rearranged the tables and chairs to get us in at a nice table by the pool and we ordered food. We all shared a mixed meze plate for starter which was very good. April and I both had chicken shish for main, which was nice but a lot more oil than I’m used to. It cost about 300 lira (£9) for the shish and came with chips, rice and salad. Gayle had a mixed grill without the rice which is naturally gluten free. I couldn’t manage all my dinner so I took some leftovers home for another day. Our first family day had gone very well and we were looking forward to more Dalyan excitement tomorrow and for the rest of the week.
Steve and Michelle had invited me to join them on a friend’s day trip on Sunday 2nd July. We were about to cruise the open sea on a private yacht with Lindos Daily Cruises and what a delight it would turn out to be. We had to be at the boat to meet everyone at 9.30am and at 9am all 3 of us were still flapping about shoving last minute swimmers and sunglasses in to our beach bags and getting in to the car. We parked up at the top of the hill, overlooking the sea at Lindos then walked down the hill. I was glad to have my porter sandals on as we hurried down the steep streets. At the bottom, we met Louise and waited for the others to turn up. The lady who had booked the boat, Tracie, was India’s mom and they had 3 friends (Jen, Ines and Izzy). Steve was the only male and instantly became our cabana boy. We had a crew of 2 fellas who were very nice and we were reminded that the yacht trip was until 3.30pm, included free drinks, lots of swim stops, snorkelling equipment, an underwater camera, lunch and fresh fruit. I felt very lucky to be invited and knew it was going to be an awesome day as Steve passed round the bubbly, white wine and got himself a cold beer. Our host, Tracie, was lovely and I liked her straight away. She told us of an adventure with some goats on a beach a few days ago and we had a good old laugh. On one of the swim spots, Tracie, Ines and I decided to swim to the beach, I think it was called Red Sand beach, for obvious reasons. Tracie and Ines raced ashore while I took my time, thinking it might be further than it first looked. When I approached the shore, there were goats and the sunbathers were feeding them fruit and sandwiches. It was so sweet and Tracie thought they might be the same goats. We decided to swim back, Ines was like an athlete but Tracie and I found it a bit harder against the current. At one point she swallowed a wave and started to cough, I thought the yacht was getting further away. We were knackered when we finally climbed back onboard and we were both desperate for water. It’s probably worth mentioning that I’d neglected to reapply my factor 50 suncream after getting out of the sea! Lunch was served and Tracie had put in a special request for traditional moussaka with salad. The food was so tasty, the portion size was absolutely huge and they were not shy with the all inclusive drinks. It was a wonderful boat trip with such lovely company and the free flow fizz meant I didn’t notice how much sun I was catching.
At 3.45pm we were having a drink at the Lindos Yacht Club all giddy from our amazing day out. That’s when I noticed I was sunburnt! The walk back to car was easier but quite hot and the car was like a sauna as we blew off the salt and sweat on the journey back to Lardos. Steve continued to be super helpful, even though his cabana boy duties were redundant, and sprayed my face with Aftersun. This was looking good for tonight’s plans that my boss had given me pink eye! Steve and the photographer had an evening meeting with a client, while I was to accompany Michelle, back in Lindos.
We arrived at Lindian House bar and restaurant which is absolutely gorgeous, in an old building with a courtyard for cocktails and a veranda with Acropolis views. They had a great cocktail and drinks menu so we both ordered a drink and sat in a comfy chair admiring the place. We spoke to one of the owners and our waitress encouraged me to take a look at the view point in the moonlight. I could have stayed all night but we had more business to take care of and to get back to pick up Steve. We decided to pop in to 404 Bar to see Louise, she was also sunburnt like me and we did look a pair! Rob played some real blast from the past tunes, which Michelle and I loved, but we couldn’t stay long. Next, we drove to Dapapa Lounge to pick up Steve and were offered shots of over proof alcohol with the photographer. I had to decline, my sunburn and heatstroke had taken their toll and I could hardly get up or down the spiral stairs to the toilet. We got home and after another dousing in Aftersun and a naked blast in front of the fan, I was good for nothing but sleeping.
Photo credit – various photos used which were taken by guests/crew onboard
A question I often get asked is ‘Don’t you ever learn?’ Judging by my actions on Wednesday 14th June, I think it is fair to say that I don’t . Captain Caveman and I were up early to find that the weather was cloudy and the forecast predicted thunderstorms. I think I may have been over ambitious but I suggested another outing, it was Captain Caveman’s last full day off and I wanted us to make the most of it. I quickly took my measurements after my shower and was surprised that I didn’t ache much from my cycling 23km yesterday. I measured everything and here are the results; Bust -1cm, Waist -1cm, Hips +1cm. I suggested we should visit the Pub with Cold Beer as the owner had been following all my updates on Facebook since I left Vietnam, she’s a lovely woman and I’d missed her family and their place. Captain Caveman offered to drive the motorbike and, looking back, I should have agreed. I said we should cycle because Bluey would miss me when I’m back in Dalyan and it was cloudy. I drank rehydration tablets for my breakfast to keep from having any issues as I’d been getting a bit of cramp. As soon as we got out of the door I had to put on my sun hat as the sun came out! We pretty much did the same route as yesterday but I managed to cycle all the way to the Duck Stop without a break. When we got there Quynh, the owner, gave us a free drink and peanuts – I looked like a beetroot and was beginning to wish we’d gone by motorbike.
Captain Caveman hates it when I moan, in fact he says I complain a lot, so I had no choice but to soldier on. Even Bluey was having trouble and I had to push her up the hill from the Duck Stop until I could get back on for the downhill bit. I arrived at the Pub with Cold Beer in blazing sun, another drippy mess, any sun cream I’d had on had definitely sweated off. Nhat and her daughters were so pleased to see us, they got Captain Caveman a cold beer and me a water straight away. We decided to order chicken, pork, rice and morning glory because we hoped our friends, Chung and Uy, would join us. While Nhat killed a chicken and I rested in a hammock, Captain Caveman cycled up to the Wild Boar Farm to see Cuong. I couldn’t manage any more and was regretting cycling 13km away from home, not knowing if I’d be able to make it back.
Uy and Chung couldn’t make lunch but we arranged to meet tonight for dinner as it was their 6 year wedding anniversary. For lunch we had an absolute feast, including 2 bowls of the famous peanut sauce which we both love so much. Captain Caveman said it was only 10 minutes more to cycle to the Wild Boar Farm and wanted me to go after lunch but I decided another 10 minutes in the opposite direction would be foolish. Instead, I suggested we have a swim, seeing as there is a lovely swimming pool at the Pub with Cold Beer. I went to the toilet and, as I flushed, a frog jumped up from the bowl, I’d peed on it’s head and it wasn’t thrilled. I shouted Captain Caveman over to bring a camera as this wasn’t the first time I’d been startled by a frog in my toilet, in fact it was the third! (Once, while camping in India and the other while on Safari in Kenya). When it got to 3pm we decided we had better start making our way back, we had really enjoyed our time and food at the Pub with Cold Beer. We said our goodbyes and Captain Caveman and Bluey had already decided we would go the other way back, over a narrow, grid floor, suspension bridge which I was scared to cross. At first, Bluey was going to ride us across but I had to get off and push because I was having a panic on.
We cycled back through the valley and some of it was shaded which I was grateful for, some of it was steep and I had to push Bluey uphill. We soon ran out of water and I knew I wouldn’t make it back to Phong Nha in one go so Captain Caveman pushed Bluey for a bit and suggested a slight detour. Half an hour later, we were sat in Multi and Diem’s kitchen at the Pepper House being offered rice wine. I declined and had loads of much needed water while Captain Caveman had rice wine and beer (he’s an animal)! There were kids’ swimming lessons going on in the pool and I’m sure they were laughing at my red sweaty face. We finally left Multi’s to cycle home but I was a little tender on the undercarriage. Captain Caveman could tell I might not make it home so he suggested we cycle past where we used to live in Khuong Ha and stop off at a new place, he even got another video of me and Bluey.
Captain Caveman’s video of me and Bluey, in Khuong Ha
Phong Nha Funky Beach is a new venture owned by our friend, Mo (ex Oxalis colleague) and the previous owner of Greenfield Homestay. We arrived and sat overlooking the river on one of the platform style seating areas. It wasn’t particularly comfy for my achy legs but Mo was pleased to see us and was with another colleague of Captain Caveman’s, Nu, so they joined us. We had a cold beer, Mo brought us some vegan spring rolls and Nu gave us some vegan Banh Ep. Both were lovely but I was a bit distracted as it was already gone 5pm, it goes dark around 6pm and I hadn’t brought any lights. We said our goodbyes after a brief overview of the various activities that can be done there and set back off.
Our next stop was a quick nip in to Jungle Boss HQ, the boss was still not around to say hello to, but it was a good place for me to stop off to rest and use the toilet. We were due to meet Chung and Uy at 7pm but I was a sweaty mess and needed to go home for a shower. I’d drank all of the water we had between us so we had to stop for a coconut at Tree House Cafe on the way back home. I had a shower, then a naked lay on the bed in AC before rushing to get ready to go back out for dinner.
Captain Caveman and I met Chung at the Bia Hoi BBQ duck place, next door to Victory Road Villas. Uy was still on his was so we ordered the Bia Hoi beer which was about 60,000vnd (£1.98) for a small keg. Chung ordered food without Uy as it got to 8pm and he still wasn’t there yet but he arrived, a bit merry! It certainly was one of the more unusual anniversary celebrations I’d been on and turned out not to be much better than our own last year! Uy just drank and smoked but didn’t eat and another keg of cheap weak beer was consumed, mainly by the fellas. By the end of the meal, which tasted fantastic by the way, Uy was telling Chung she needed to do more exercise because she was fat. Luckily, the events of the last 2 days meant that Captain Caveman couldn’t possibly say the same about me today. Somehow, the birth of the LLC came out right there and then as Chung and I pledged to cycle together as the 2 founder members of the Lazy Ladies Club. The BBQ duck, veggies, noodles and beers came to a total of 400,000vnd (£13.20) which was a bargain.
We said our goodbyes and then instead of going home ourselves we had a sneaky bottle of red wine (also 400,000vnd) in The Villas to finish off our night. It was a good job, so that I could stop moaning that my bits were on fire from the 28km I’d managed to cycle on Bluey today on a very hot day! That was 3km more than yesterday, the furthest I cycled since before my injury and we did it in the height of summer. On the way home, I spotted a snake in the Stick or Snake game and it was alive in the Dead or Alive game, so I shouted to Captain Caveman behind me to stop so he could take a photo. It was heading back to the river after a spot of sunbathing and was slithering across the road, it was beautiful. I was glad to get in bed that night and at least we could have an easy, restful, quiet non-cycling day tomorrow, couldn’t we!?
I was in the reception of the Common Inn hotel at 5.20am on Monday 15th May, wishing I’d had more sleep and looking like shit! I was bobbing about with sea sickness symptoms which must have been caused by jet lag. There was no time for breakfast, not that anywhere was open, and we were checked in and sat in a busy Saigon airport at 6.15am. By 7.20am we were sat next to each other on the plane to Dong Hoi, which isn’t a given with Captain Caveman. I’d already arranged to not do any work today due to travelling and spending time with Captain Caveman before he was in the cave for 4 days. On the same flight was Captain Caveman’s friend, Phuong, who was returning to Phong Nha to do another Oxalis cave tour.
We’d arranged to meet friends in Dong Hoi for a very early lunch so we got a taxi to Buffalo Home & Chill Bar. I was already hungry so we ordered some spring rolls and a drink to keep us going, as we were early. Captain Caveman was happy to be back in his province of Quang Binh, while I was already having issues with the extreme heat. Dong Hoi is by the sea so there is some breeze, allbeit a warm one, so Phong Nha was definitely going to be more of a challenge for me. Jack was the first to arrive, we said hellos and he and Captain Caveman grabbed a beer. It was still too early for me to have alcohol though. Stu and Max arrived shortly after and they both ordered beers and, as they were in their lunch hour, we ordered food. Captain Caveman and I shared the pork ribs while the lads had burgers or curry. I succumbed to a beer with my dinner as it only seemed right for our welcome back lunch. Trang arrived shortly after and just had a drink with us while she was back in town. It was good to see everyone and even Captain Caveman was happy I was finally here. The food was great and I was enjoying eating pork in Vietnam.
We had a car coming to pick us up at 12.30pm because Captain Caveman had to get back for his Son Doong briefing tonight. He needed to go to the Oxalis office so it was decided that I would be dropped off at Victory Road Villas (VRV). It’s one of the more up market places in town, owned by Ben and Bich, halfway between town and where Captain Caveman was living now. He was back staying at the Glass House, our original place, because he was mostly in the jungle so didn’t need to be paying for anywhere fancy with a pool. Captain Caveman took my suitcase home while I had a light refreshment then he came back to join me. We had some drinks and even had a dip in the pool before it was time for Captain Caveman to go to work. I spent the afternoon at VRV, drinking beer and having a loll about on a sun bed – I may have fell asleep on one of the very comfy loungers.
By 6.30pm I was hungry so decided to sample dinner at The Villa’s restaurant. The menu was very similar to the last time I’d been here, 9 months ago, with just a few changes. I had the vegetarian fresh spring rolls for a starter which are 80,000vnd (£2.64) and very healthy. I left the soy sauce dip as I find it a bit too strong. For main, I chose the chicken and bacon sandwich (no mayo) forgetting it came with chips. At 180,000vnd (£5.94) it’s good value and a generous portion. I was still eating it when Captain Caveman returned from his briefing so he had another beer. Beers for 330ml were 35,000vnd (£1.16) which are the most expensive in town but do come with an iced glass, ice and are cold. Back home, via a short motorbike ride on Trigger, I was shocked to see the Glass House was lacking a bit of TLC, somewhat. There was no internet and the bathroom tap had broken so Captain Caveman had tied it up with string to turn it off. I was going to be roughing it a bit these next few days but I didn’t mind too much, at least I could catch up on some much needed sleep while Captain Caveman was away.
My month and my week started early on Monday 1st May. For breakfast I had 2 slices of wholemeal toast with 2 cheese triangles and a cup of Yorkshire tea. I was just about to start work when I got a message from Jamie asking if I was available this evening. He, his parents and Drew were having a BBQ and wanted to invite me to meet his Ma & Pa. I agreed to pop over after work and then got cracking on with my day. For lunch I had some curry and steamed rice then lounged on the new furniture in the sun while eating an orange. After work I went to empty the washing machine to find I had left money in my shorts pocket and it was very wet. I managed 50 seconds of squats, 70 seconds of planking and 30 sit ups before walking over to Jamie’s. I took a bottle of red wine with me and I was introduced to Jamie’s dad first, his mom was still upstairs. The BBQ was great and I really got on well with Jamie’s parents, they both had some very amusing stories. Drew got out some Turkish cheese which they had discovered tasted like a strong blue cheese. I tried some and was impressed with it, I even took a photo so I could remember it. It was a good night but we didn’t have a late one as I needed to be up early for work tomorrow.
It was another working day on Tuesday 2nd May and it was also the last day before Fat Club and my parents arriving in Dalyan. I’d already gone over 200 syns this week so I wasn’t optimistic for a loss but I was going to do all I could today to rectify the damage already done. For breakfast I had carrot sticks and a Yorkshire tea, followed by as much cucumber infused water as I could take. As I started work, I noticed a team of fellas cleaning the pool and that the neighbours were drilling loudly. This wasn’t good for the new holiday makers at B1 but hopefully it wouldn’t be all day as it looked like they were erecting a pergola and some screening. At lunch I had more curry but with a slice of bread and a cheese triangle. After work, I went to the bank and the shop where I bought more Quark at 11.90 lira (50p) each and some skimmed milk for 16.75 lira (68p). I wanted to buy the strawberry lube for my boss and his wife but they had none in stock and I’d left it too late to go to the pharmacy next to the bank. I did cost up the coffee so that I could ask what size to get. The 50g Nescafe Gold jar was 59.90 lira (£2.44) and the 200g jar was 225 lira (£9.18). I don’t drink coffee so I didn’t know if this was cheap or not, but it is more expensive in Rhodes. On the way back, I walked past my parents place and the roof netting had been put on. This was a good job as they were arriving tomorrow night. When I got home I noticed there were some numbers written on our electric meter box but I didn’t know why. Dinner was beef stew with extra veg which was delicious. I’d managed 80 seconds plank, 60 seconds squats, 40 crunches and 60 minutes of walking. I had no alcohol for a 4th day this week and it was a Slimming World Speed day so I really hoped I’d lost weight tomorrow at Fat Club. To keep busy and prevent myself from snacking I made chickpea biscuits and a courgette tortilla. Before bed, I ate some pineapple that needed eating up with some quark.
joloyolo 