My plan to get back to Dalyan on Monday 22nd June was probably more complicated and longer than it needed to be, however it meant I had almost 12 more hours in Vienna. I’d initially thought of taking a train to Bratislava for 6am, then flying at 9am directly to Dalaman. This was the cheaper option with a Ryanair size under seat bag, which I didn’t have, and an extremely early start. Instead, I paid £88 (£24 more than the Ryanair direct flight) to fly 6 hours later in the day, with an 8kg allowance of hand luggage, via Istanbul.
This meant that I could have a leisurely breakfast at Sissy’s, who had gone to work but had left me some fresh bread from the bakery and I had it with some jam from the fridge. The schnitzel and accompanying leftovers were made into a snack for my journey as I wouldn’t get home until very late.
I worked in the morning at my laptop and then got the Metro, before my 24 hour ticket ran out, to meet Sissy. We decided to go for a quick lunch at Vapiano, a pizza and pasta restaurant where you choose what you want and they make it fresh at the counter in front of you. I also found the names of their drinks quite funny and had to order a Schartner Bombe. Sissy had a traditional herbal drink called a Almdudler, which had a familiar taste but I couldn’t place it until later – ginger and elderflower. Both drinks were great and my spaghetti was amazing.
It was sad to say bye to another wonderful host and friend, we’d had an incredible time of just under 30 hours together and I appreciated every minute and I hoped we would meet again soon for more adventures, perhaps in Turkey or Vietnam.
Sissy walked me to the train station to get the airport train, it was a bargain €5.40 (£4.63). We walked together to the platform and said bye several more times, by the time I was on the train I was emotional. The girl opposite me on the train got chatting and was an Austrian, who was on her way to Greece for a holiday but had grown up in Turkey.
At Vienna airport it was super efficient and clean, I ate my chicken schnitzel and snacks then boarded the plane to Sabiha Gökçen at 5.30pm, taking off at 6.05pm. The Ajet flight was busy but comfortable and I got an aisle seat near the back. I landed in Istanbul at 9.20pm and I had a drink and a snack for 495 lira (£7.68) in the airport while I waited for my next flight to Dalaman which was leaving at just after midnight.
Gratitude List
1. Getting a later flight back from Vienna 2. More time with Sissy 3. Austrian food and drink.
The second Ajet flight took off on Tuesday 23rd June at 00.05 from Sabiha Gökçen and landed in Dalaman at 01.25am. I had a wine on the plane for 150 lira (£2.38) and had fallen asleep by the time we landed. As I had no luggage to pick up and I was quite fast at getting out, I was in the taxi with Sonuç, who I had booked ahead, in no time. Back home in Dalyan, I had to duck under overgrown bushes to get to the steps and then up to the apartment. There was no internet so I went straight to bed and slept very well. When I woke up, I needed to put the internet on and get some food so I went out. Here’s what I bought, prices in lira;
Migros Supermarket 1 plastic bag 1.00 Yoghurt 54.95 Pain au chocolat 54.95 Olives 61.50 Total spent 172.40 lira (£2.74)
Captainnet internet 1 month 750 lira (£11.90)
I also decided to visit one of my favourite cafes in Dalyan, Mornings in Mavi, where I ordered the Nectarino sandwich, water and a cookie for a total of 770 lira (£12.22). It’s not the cheapest cafe in town, but it’s definitely delicious and I really enjoy the food there. I even took half of my sandwich home to have later. I spent the rest of the day catching up on laundry, emails, blogs and unpacking Pauline, of course. I had just 7 days in Dalyan before I headed back to the UK for another holiday.
Gratitude List 1. An uneventful journey back to Dalyan 2. A delicious brunch from Mornings in Mavi 3. Being back home for a week.
On Sunday 21st June I woke up early to a lovely sunrise in Vienna. I had arranged to disembark the Riverside Mozart ship early and spend 1 day and night in Vienna with a friend. It wasn’t the first time this month that people had thought I was being a bit silly by only visiting a place for such a short time. I was getting off early to walk to the nearest metro and go to meet my friend, only to spend a day sightseeing in a city that had a lot of things closed on a Sunday. If I’d learned anything from my 36 hours in Mallorca last week, it was that even the shortest of visits can still be the most enjoyable. I was about to meet Sissy for less than 30 hours and I had no idea at this stage, just how good that would be! I had my breakfast served to me in the dining room of Riverside Mozart, by a Bulgarian waiter. We chatted about my forthcoming trip to Sofia and Plovdiv and he said we would love it. The breakfast pancakes were excellent and the pot of tea was just how I liked it. I was there by myself for about an hour so I quizzed the staff, who we had got quite friendly with, what time my fellow Fam trippers had gone to bed. They were very coy and didn’t want to spill the beans but I gathered it was definitely a late one for some of them. Of course it had taken me no time at all to pack Pauline, my petite pink under seat case, and neck pillow. Surprisingly I also had spare knickers, a clean bra and an outfit I still hadn’t worn! My flight back to Dalaman was meant to have been from Bratislava at 9am on Monday but, as it was with Ryanair and I’d have had to pay extra for Pauline, I decided to fly with Ajet and take a later flight from Vienna. I asked the Riverside Mozart reception staff for the directions from the ship to the nearest Metro station. My instructions to get to meet Sissy seemed straight forward;
Take the Purple Line on the U6 at Stadion and get to Reichsbrücke. From there, get the red line at Vorgartenstrasse, in the direction of Alaunstrasse/Oberlaa, getting off at Schwedenplatz to change on to the Green Line, U4, to go to Rossauer Lände.
“What could possibly go wrong?”, I asked myself and fellow travel buddies, as I said farewell and departed the ship at just after 9am!
After quite a hot and confusing walk from the edge of the Danube to the Metro station, I had managed to purchase a one way ticket to where I thought I was going to meet Sissy. It cost just €3.20 (£2.74) and I thought I was heading on to the correct platform. The streets of Vienna had been empty apart from one woman who I asked if she could help me check I was going the right way. She helped me but said my written down directions were confusing so she wasn’t sure, she also got a little offended when I asked her if she spoke English. Apparently most Austrians do! By 10.15am I had to contact Sissy to check as it did look like following the directions I had, would send me in the opposite direction to what I needed. Sissy confirmed I did need the Purple Line to Seestadt but to change at Schottenring on to the Green line U4, in the direction of Heiligenstadt. I was at Stadion convinced I should go in the direction of Karlsplatz as that empty metro came in. I took a chance and I managed to find my way – I have no idea how, especially when I mixed up Rossauer Lände and Ländestrasse.
Finally, I met up with Sissy and we laughed at how rubbish I am at following directions but how pleased I was not to be travelling with lots of luggage. We walked a short distance to her delightful apartment, which was very cool inside. Pauline, my petite pink under seat case was popped down as she was not going to be dragged around town. After a quick recharge, some fabulous tap water, and a smothering of sun cream I was ready to see the sights. I’d met Sissy quite a few years ago in Phong Nha, Vietnam, when we did a motorbike tour to Hue via Khe Sanh. We’d met again a few years later and then things got in the way and we never made it to Vienna. Now I had jumped at the chance to extend my trip and squeeze in a visit with the lovely Sissy. Back at the Metro I was able to buy a ticket that would allow all travel for the next 24 hours at a cost of €10.20 (£8.74). It felt strange having to pay for things again, after being on the free Riverside Luxury Cruises and Travelpack Fam trip for 5 days! Once in the city, armed with fans and a UV umbrella, it was time for Sissy to put on her local tour guide hat. There is nothing better than seeing a city with someone who lives there, honestly it was unbelievable the amount of things we crammed in to just one day – thankful for my comfy shoes. We walked through gardens as I marvelled at the sights of all the buildings; Schönbrunn Palace, Belvedere Palace some historic buildings and then we got to go inside of St Stephen’s Cathedral.
It was just after mass had finished so Sissy got us in for a free look around. The cathedral was very impressive and a lovely cool temperature after being in the hot sun outside. We took our time and had a good look before heading out to the sunny streets of Vienna again.
I instantly loved it, there were historic and modern buildings intermingled with each other, some old buildings now utilised by modern companies, there were churches next to shops, museums, libraries and musical references everywhere we walked. Sissy and I did so much walking and talking that we had to stop off for a spot of light refreshment for lunch. Treześniewski was a first experience for me and, if I’m honest, I would not have tried it without being with a local as I wasn’t sure what the food actually was. Sissy knows I’m a fussy eater so she helped me choose the toppings on our open rye bread sandwiches. I had lentil and beetroot on one and tomato on the other, I think Sissy chose fishy and egg based toppings. We both decided an Ottakringer beer was in order and we had our first cheers together. Sissy treated us to lunch so I’m not certain of the cost but it seemed very reasonable and the food was exceptionally good.
Feeling refreshed, we continued on with the sightseeing in what was definitely very hot sun now. The Column of Pest was very eye-catching, as was the Habsburg Palace – even the secret underground toilets were fancy.
We had a wander round the Demel Bakery where I was glad I’d already eaten as the sweet treats in there were like masterpieces. The famous Sachertorte was getting devoured by lots of customers too.
More walking was done as we took in the Green Rabbit, Prince Eugene’s equestrian statue and the opera house. I may have seen so many buildings that I forgot the names of some, I recall a library and more museums too – mainly as they had a bit of shade near them, which we were desperate to seek by this point. Just as I thought that Sissy and the city of Vienna had nothing more to surprise me with, I was proven wrong!
When Sissy suggested a sit down in a bar around 3pm, I was quite keen. We had definitely put some paces in and the sunshine was relentless. Before I knew what was happening, Sissy was greeting the door man of Hotel Sacher Vienna and sashaying her way through a beautifully decorated room to a bar. Blaue Bar was incredibly opulent, cool and stunning as we plonked ourselves down on plush velvet seats that were so comfortable. The staff were lovely and we decided to order one of the speciality drinks, a Hugo spritz, as well as some tap water. It came served to us like we were royalty and I had to check I’d definitely left the cruise ship, for a split second! Served with ice, mint, lemon and a large glass it was just so refreshing. We also got served sunflower seeds, corn snacks and juicy olives! The drinks were roughly around €13 (£11) each and were so worth it! I tried to pay but Sissy insisted and it was such an amazing place that anyone going to Vienna has to try it. We stayed there a while to take it all in and relax and I absolutely loved the decadence of the place – what a treat.
We got the bus back towards Sissy’s home and stopped off at a wine bar which had live music playing, on the way. The prosecco was pleasant and very reasonably priced, with a couple of cheeky chaps serving it outside to save customers having to go inside to order.
Our dinner was at an absolute treasure of a place too, which had been owned by the same family since 1787. Heuriger Kierlinger was a little on the outskirts and it was very busy with locals, drinking a spritz and ordering from the buffet counter or menu. Again, without Sissy being my guide and translator I wouldn’t have got very far and probably wouldn’t have enjoyed trying the different foods as much as I did. We had salad, sauerkraut, gherkin, horseradish, a buttery dip which was very moreish, cow’s tongue and pork belly, plus a schnitzel and the traditional potatoes that go with it. Obviously we over ordered but, with just one night in Vienna, it was essential I try as much as possible. The food was superb and even the bread which looked so ordinary was amazing. I learned that horseradish isn’t just eaten in a sauce and was quite partial to it as a dry side taster! The white wine spritzers were great and so cheap compared to what I’d pay in the UK or Turkey. We couldn’t finish all of the schnitzel so, of course, I asked to take a doggy bag. Sissy was in favour of this too and said it was definitely something Austrians don’t frown upon like my English mates sometimes do. She even stuffed the extra leftovers in the bag and a breadroll to make sandwiches for lunch tomorrow. It was a perfect evening, but we had to get going back to Sissy’s neighbourhood where we watched one of the World Cup football matches with a shandy each! It had been an amazing Sunday with Sissy in Vienna and I wished I was staying for longer. We made plans to not leave it so long to catch up again and I definitely needed to come back to Vienna as I had really fallen in love with the place. That evening I slept well on the sofa on account of how many steps we must have walked, trying to see the best of Vienna.
Gratitude List 1. Vienna and all I got to see and do in 1 day 2. Sissy, not just a great friend but a great local guide to spend the day with 3. Austrian food and drink.
On Saturday 20th June, Day 4 of our Riverside Luxury Cruise, we arrived in Tulln, Austria. Something concerning had happened to me, though! I’d woken up very early feeling a little unwell and my tongue had swollen up. It was just like the time I had found out I was allergic to kiwi fruit. I took antihistamines and drank all the water I had, hoping it would subside, as I needed to be on an excursion at 9am. My continental breakfast today was chosen to be eaten in my cabin while catching up on some Resort Experts emails, knowing that today was our last full day and night on this fantastic luxury cruise. I still hadn’t booked my flight back to Dalaman so I also needed to do that, as well as finalising arrangements with a friend in Austria who I planned on meeting up with tomorrow. I’d selected the continental breakfast option thinking it may be less filling than the cooked breakfast – it wasn’t and there was loads of it. The butler had sent it in just before 7am as they were busy today. I found it hard to eat as my face was puffy and the swollen tongue wasn’t helping. I decided to message Victoria to see if she wanted to take my place on today’s excursion but she wasn’t able to. I wasn’t too sick to go, I just didn’t want my potential allergic reaction to get any worse. My first reaction of being on a 9am wine tasting excursion was that it might be a tad early in the day for me! However, I was wrong and the excursion was absolutely fantastic. We had a short coach ride to Schloss Gobelsburg, one of the oldest wineries which dated back to 1711. The owners met us with 2 overexcited dogs, who were soon taken back indoors.
We had a wonderful tour round the cellars and learned about the history as well as the specific wine making processes a while before we got to sample any of the products. By this time the antihistamines had taken more of an affect and my eyes had stopped watering. The trip also had another surprise in store if we made it through the cold cellars (I took a hoodie), to the wine tasting room. I loved Schloss Gobelsburg, where we got to sample Grüner Veltliner and Riesling white wines. What made it all the more special was a surprise rendition of some popular songs from an impressive quintet. The memory of sipping one of the white wine classics, Messwein, while listening to a Boney M classic will stay with me for a very long time!
On the last evening of our Riverside Luxury Cruise on Riverside Mozart, we enjoyed even more Taittinger champagne and the sunset before dinner. We set sail through the beautiful Wachau Valley and I didn’t want the cruise to end. It had been a remarkable journey which Travelpack and Riverside Luxury Cruises had organised for us and I felt so lucky to have had the experience. I also knew I wanted to do more river cruises and I was certainly sold on this luxury one. All of us said we fancied a winter trip next, and I was already imagining Christmas markets, Christmas or New Year would be a great time to do a trip like this.
The dinner in Waterfront was excellent and I even managed a dessert after my beef main, this time. We had a last drink in the bar to round off the night but I didn’t want a late one as I had an extra day planned in Vienna tomorrow.
Gratitude List 1. Recovering well enough to enjoy the wine tasting excursion 2. Sailing through the Wachau Valley 3. A wonderful last meal to round off the perfect cruise trip.
Photo Credit – some photos by other Fam Trip Attendees