Phong Nha – 28th March

It was an early start, the 5.30am tannoy blaring out, and I had a slight hangover, on Sunday 28th March. Captain Caveman was off to Son Doong but still had time to make me bacon and mushrooms for breakfast in bed. After Captain Caveman had said goodbye and left for Phong Nha I tried to go back to sleep but couldn’t so I checked the news to see there was a report of a Phu Quoc Corona risk – more info here:
https://tuoitrenews.vn/news/society/20210328/vietnam-s-phu-quoc-island-grapples-to-prevent-covid19-threats-from-border-jumpers/60015.html
I went to the Phong Nha Farmstay as Bluey needed to be retrieved after I had left her there over night. I had a second breakfast of pho bo and bumped in to Annette, Sonya, Ania and Hamish, some of who were hung over too. I stayed for a lunch of fried veggie spring rolls and an orange juice which resulted in stomach pains and a few visits to the toilet half way through, so had to take leftovers home with me. There was definitely something odd going on with my stomach which couldn’t be gluten or dairy related and I was beginning to wonder if I was allergic to booze! I eventually left the Farmstay to cycle the short route back home in 9 minutes 6 seconds, having agreed that white wine and tequila is not a good combo and to meet back tonight for Sunday dinner.
I had to have an afternoon sleep because I was feeling fragile so when I made it back the the Farmstay, Veronika had already almost finished her meal, Annette and Sonya were just about to start, Hamish and Ania didn’t make it out for dinner. We were sat at the darkest table and so I only ate a bit of mine and took the rest home, along with a piece of frozen cheesecake. I’d spent a total of 460,000vnd (£14.26) for breakfast, lunch and dinner with a glass of house wine.

Phong Nha – 27th March

Phong Nha – 27th March

Captain Caveman was up early and off to Phong Nha, by bicycle, on Saturday 27th March while I got busy doing stuff. We had a plan to meet up at the Lake House before 1pm as Captain Caveman had a friend arriving from Saigon, who was staying there. There was also a returning Farmstay customer and friend, Annette, arriving on the same flight for her third stay and we would be meeting her and her friend later. If I didn’t hear from Captain Caveman by noon my instructions were to set off cycling on Bluey, up the hill. I was almost ready to go when Captain Caveman arrived and decided to make himself a peanut butter sandwich before going for lunch. It took me a little over 9 mins to get there, which included about 2 minutes of walking when it got to the steep part and I had to get off and push Bluey.
Captain Caveman tried to order a shandy but they had ran out of beer so he had 7up and I had soda water. We were getting hungry so ended up ordering lunch – a sweet and sour chicken for me and a steak sandwich for him. The food came, and was really tasty, Tony returned and joined us for a chat, then David and his family arrived. It was a nice afternoon until I had to cycle on to the Phong Nha Farmstay, I found it a bit hilly in parts and difficult to navigate the turn off of the main road. The whole journey was just over 18 minutes and I was pleased to have made it there in one piece, so I celebrated with a cider!

Annette and her friend, Sonya, were both happy to be away from work and the hectic pace of their life in Saigon. We sat at a table by the pool and rice paddies at the Farmstay and Veronika joined us briefly while still supervising the grandkids. Matty joined us while Captain Caveman was still there, followed by Hamish and Ania. I decided to leave my bicycle at the Farmstay and ended up drinking lots of white wine and some tequila shots while Captain Caveman was at his briefing. For dinner I ordered chicken with fried rice which was really good, Hamish ordered spring rolls but didn’t eat any of them as he was too busy with the wine. Ania ordered a veggie curry and helped Hamish out as she ate some of the spring rolls still in front of him. All seemed to be going well and everyone was having a good time as we kept on getting more white wine. Annette even got in the pool fully clothed – twice! Captain Caveman rejoined us, he had cycled back from Oxalis and was sober so had a shot and some white wine. The last thing I remember of the evening was me following Captain Caveman home in the rascal with Duyet, as he cycled back. I remembered to put my phone on the Do Not Disturb mode before going to sleep and the alarm was set for early the next morning.

Photo credit – Captain Caveman

Phong Nha – 26th March

Phong Nha – 26th March

After only 6 hours of sleep the tannoy woke me up at 5.30am on Friday 26th March. I caught up on another one of Heather’s Untangled by Tingle decluttering challenges which was an easy one for me. Sorting out spices is something that would have taken me longer back in England but here, the humidity means even salt doesn’t keep long so we don’t store much of anything, mainly black pepper corns which are produced locally. Here’s the Facebook group for anyone interested in finding out more:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/springclearing2021/?ref=share
I didn’t bother with any breakfast, Captain Caveman, who had stayed at the Glass House last night, was too hungover to come home just yet and seemed to be in a bit of a tangle.
In the news it mentioned that Vietnam was looking to open up to tourists from July for 3 countries (Japan, S Korea, Taiwan), see more here:
https://vietnaminsider.vn/vietnam-will-receive-foreign-tourists-from-some-countries/
There were also some concerns in Vietnam that there could be the start of the next wave soon due to more border jumpers, which was still a problem, more info below:
https://tuoitrenews.vn/news/society/20210326/vietnam-confirms-2-new-coronavirus-infections-who-are-border-jumpers-from-cambodia/59975.html
Interestingly, there wasn’t too much information about it, but the first commercial flights in Vietnam restarted today, read more here:
https://e.vnexpress.net/news/business/companies/vietnam-airlines-resumes-international-commercial-flights-4254235.html
Captain Caveman recovered just enough to send me his work schedule from 1st April onwards. We were hoping to have a couple of trips away in April but he did have 5 Son Doong tours to do, and I had the same issue with passport being submitted for most of the time, so we would see how that worked out. He was still in a mess when he returned about 4pm and got straight in to bed for a nap before pizza night.
Ben called to check we were outside waiting for the car pick up which was leaving the Farmstay at 6pm and we went outside where I spoke to Duyet to say we were going for pizza night. He said to wait 10 minutes so we thought that Ben and the bus were coming for us. He left in a car and returned 15 minutes later with Matty, who had come back from Saigon this afternoon, in the passenger seat, then took us to The Villas, where everyone else were already sat and had ordered drinks. Hamish and Ania were at the far end of the long outdoor table, opposite a new Farmstay couple, next to them were Karl and Sue, new long term Farmstay customers who were from England. Then there was Veronika and Ben opposite them, I sat next to Ben, Captain Caveman sat opposite me with Matty sat next to Captain Caveman. Hamish, who we were too far away to chat to, came to have a tequila shot with me and Captain Caveman but ended up doing 2 because of the fragile state Captain Caveman was in. This was the first time Captain Caveman and Hamish had met apart from when they bumped in to each other on their Son Doong and Hang En trips. Captain Caveman drank 2 litres of water and ate 9 slices of pizza and I only managed 7 slices and a soft drink. Unfortunately the Croatian couple had left already to Saigon so Captain Caveman wearing his Croation football shirt had been wasted and I was sorry he didn’t get to meet them. The pizzas were great, as always, I realised I’d not missed a pizza night in a long while and was getting to be an expert on which pizza had what toppings. As Ben had left his seat free, Hamish sat down for a chat with Captain Caveman until we came to leave. A fragile Captain Caveman was so glad to be back home and in bed that I’m sure he started to snore before he even lay down! As neither of us had drank tonight we only spent 300,000vnd (£9.30) which was great, but we had a hectic Saturday planned.

Photo credit – The Villas restaurant

Phong Nha – 24th & 25th March

Phong Nha – 24th & 25th March

The first thing I did on Wednesday 24th March was listen to a live chat from Untangled by Tingle on her second decluttering task – pens and pencils. I remember back in Sheffield I had loads of both, but here I have 1 pen which I keep with my notebook and a pencil for my diary (there’s no point having pen for diary events these days). I also have a spare pen and pencil in the bedroom so that was an easy challenge for me. For breakfast I decided to indulge in some sausages which are from Hue and are meant to be gluten free but they made me so ill that I had to go back to bed. I really hoped the after effects wouldn’t last long because we had arranged for Tatas to come over to mine and we were meeting Hamish, Ania, Matija and Daria at the Phong Nha Farmstay later for drinks and dinner. Tatas had just arrived when Veronika came back from the Farmstay, a bit frazzled after looking after the grandkids. She had a bottle of white wine in the fridge which she had been unable to open and was insistent we had some with her. We invited her to come to the Farmstay too but she was really looking forward to having a quiet night in for a change.
Tatas and I arrived at Phong Nha Farmstay before 6pm and everyone arrived ready for a good night, sat by the pool. Hamish and Ania had just arrived back from Danang and so they were celebrating being back in Phong Nha. Tatas and I started with a margarita each then we shared a bottle of red wine while Hamish and Tatas encouraged a few tequilas for everyone (sambuca for Ania). We ate food, had a good laugh and got a bit merry, Matija has a particular sense of humour that had us all laughing until our cheeks hurt and when Daria got out the rice wine which smells of farts we knew we may have gone too far!
The bar closes at 9.30pm at the Farmstay and we were still there, the only ones drinking at 9.45pm, so I put another bottle of red wine on my tab, and took it home. Duyet came to get us and we said goodbye with a plan to see everyone again tomorrow night. Tatas was staying at mine and we had more wine to drink because it was my mom’s birthday and we were going to call her. My mom was celebrating her second birthday in lockdown and it made me feel bad that she couldn’t even go out for a meal or drinks, while here in Vietnam we were so lucky to have our freedom.
I decided we should invite Duyet in for a glass of wine and we were all going to sing Happy Birthday to my mom via Facebook video call. I bet my mom was really pleased that we were celebrating more than she would be! We never thought about how much noise we were making and that poor Veronika had been looking forward to her early night. Tatas decided she was going to bed so Duyet left and we didn’t finish all of the wine.

I was so hung over on Thursday 25th March and if Tatas hadn’t have been staying at mine I would not have got up for breakfast at the Phong Nha Farmstay with Hamish and Ania. I ordered Pho Bo but couldn’t eat it and when I paid my bill I had the bottle of wine from last night on there too! I went back to bed after I got home and didn’t get up for lunch until 4pm, eating the left over shepherd’s pie from Tuesday. I did another of the Untangled by Tingle decluttering challenges which was an appropriate one – medication/first aid kit. It took me just a few minutes and I needed a paracetamol anyway for my sore head. When I messaged Veronika to apologise for being so noisy she surprisingly had not heard the renditions of Happy Birthday and things were all good. 
The Croatian couple (Matija and Daria), Hamish, Ania and Tatas were alcohol animals and had arranged to go to Momma D’s that night but I was too old to keep up with them all and declined. I had hoped for an early night but there was a wedding a few doors away and so the karaoke got progressively louder and worse until the crescendo at midnight. I was grateful that it stopped and to have spent only 500,000vnd (£15.50) today, 430,000 of it was last night’s wine! I was a bit disappointed that March should have been my month to get a bit fitter and thinner – I was running out of time!

Phong Nha – 22nd & 23rd March

Phong Nha – 22nd & 23rd March

Captain Caveman went off to Son Doong early on Monday 22nd March while I had buttered toast for breakfast and got on with some work from my To Do List. For lunch I ate some Banh Ep rice crackers and drank jasmine tea. It was the one month anniversary of Margarita Monday and I had got a message from Luc to ask if I was going, I wasn’t going to bother since we had drank a few impromptu ones the day before, but if Luc was up for it, I was. I tried to get a car to take me to The Villas and also to take me to the Glass House to retrieve my bag but the rascal was at the garage being fixed and there was no shuttle service available. Instead of The Villas, I went to the Farmstay and ate Aussie meat pie, chips and gravy which then made me have a dodgy tum (it must be gluten)! I’d spent 140,000vnd (£4.34) on my dinner and I was grateful for a quiet day.

I managed to sleep in until 8am on Tuesday 23rd March and was ecstatic about that. At 9.30am I went to the Glass House to get my bag back and the shopping. It was the first day of a friend’s challenge on Facebook for decluttering in which the task was sorting socks. Seeing as I’d just picked up more socks I checked them all and resorted them before getting carried away and doing my knickers too. I had buttered toast for breakfast, with a mango and a kiwi fruit I’d brought back from the Vinpearl Hotel. I was left with a big guava, which I chopped up and took outside for Duyet and the girls to have. Because it was shepherd’s pie night and I’d put my pre-order for one in, I just had dates and walnuts for a lunch/snack.
At the Farmstay that evening I got chatting to some English guests and it had got a bit chilly again so we sat by the fire, also with Veronika, who had lent one of the ladies some warm clothes. I treated myself to a glass of wine with my shepherd’s pie and vegetables but couldn’t eat all my meal and took half home. My stomach was fine again, I was glad to be feeling ok for a change and had only spent 235,000vnd (£7.50).

Phong Nha and Dong Hoi – the 3rd weekend of March

Phong Nha and Dong Hoi – the 3rd weekend of March

There’s often a change of plan where Captain Caveman’s plans are concerned and so it was no surprise that he had decided to get an overnight train to Dong Hoi on the evening of Saturday 20th March. I decided that I would go to Dong Hoi to get some shopping in and have a nice rest. I asked Mik, Kendra and Bryan if I could get a ride with them when they went to the train station and they agreed and we arranged for me to join them for lunch at Phong Nha Farmstay before our departure. I had soda water and the beef in bamboo with steamed rice and vegetables (a firm favourite), Kendra had the banh xeo, Bryan the pork clay pot and Mik a rather tasty looking cheese and ham toasty which I had food envy over. The men had beers, Kendra had vodka and soda and I had a couple of Magner’s – well, I was almost on a holiday within a holiday.

Our driver arrived at Dong Hoi train station just before 4.30pm on Saturday 20th March and I said farewell to Mik, Kendra and Bryan. I arrived at the Vinpearl Hotel where I had booked for 1 night, the receptionist checked me in while another member of staff gave me a welcome drink and a temperature check. I couldn’t go to the room straight away though as I was waiting for Kimmie, my visa agent, to drop off my passport. It was very humid today and so my face was so sweaty from wearing the mask.
In the room I had my usual fruit plate which I had the apple of while I ran a bath. The room I had been given was on the 7th floor and had ropes hanging outside our window, perhaps for window cleaning – Captain Caveman would be interested in that, being a rope fan! One of the great things about the Vinpearl is they have good weighing scales and so I was able to get weighed. Amazingly, I was now 70kg so had lost 1kg and just needed to lose 3-5kg more to be considered normal weight instead of overweight. I’d brought my own bottle of Lindeman’s sparkling white wine which was now warm and the fridge was not particularly cold. I decided to go healthy(ish) for dinner and had pumpkin soup, vegetables with garlic, spring rolls and steamed rice – a feast! I couldn’t finish all the fizz so I popped a teaspoon in the bottle and left it in the fridge for tomorrow. The room had cost £24 via Agoda, including breakfast and I spent 500,000vnd (£15.50) on room service. I was grateful to be having a break away and to have my passport back so that I could perhaps have a trip to Saigon  with Captain Caveman.
While I was sleeping in a comfy bed, Captain Caveman was on the overnight train from Hanoi which would arrive in Dong Hoi at 5.30am, I’d left him a key at reception so he could get in and would be able to join me for the buffet breakfast.

Captain Caveman arrived just before 6am on Sunday 21st March but the concierge wouldn’t give him a key to the hotel room. Instead, they came with him to escort Captain Caveman and let him in, thus waking me up. As I expected he was excited to see the ropes outside the windows and we wondered if we would see the window cleaners in action. The buffet breakfast awaited us and even the staff remembered me and asked about my leg, which was nice. Captain Caveman started us off with the pho ga each and then I moved on to fruit, then croissants each, an omelette for him, a bacon sandwich, a pancake and a waffle for me but I avoided the cheese and had no dairy, just gluten! I was fine and when we got back to the room the plan was to go shopping but we didn’t have much time before our taxi was arriving. We also had half of the bottle of Lindemans to drink so Captain Caveman knocked up a couple of mimosas at 10am! We also got to see the ropes being used as 2 window cleaners shimmied down to clean outside our room and we watched, waved and took photos while Captain Caveman observed the safety of their equipment – one of the workers dropped his cloth!
While I packed (he hadn’t unpacked) Captain Caveman nipped to the shop to get me coconut cream and mushrooms, he also bought gherkins but they had chillies in. I took the rest of the fruit home and when I came to check out, the food bill was given a 30% off, which was great.

Our next stop was Tree Hugger where Captain Caveman had iced black coffe and a smoothie, I had a Tree Hugger hot tea. We weren’t hungry after such a big breakfast and so we just chilled out for a bit. I read in the news that there was a possibility of Vietnam working with vaccine passports in the future – see below link:
https://en.thesaigontimes.vn/tinbaichitiet/81055/
By 1pm we could manage a lunch so Captain Caveman went for his favourite, egg salad sandwich, while I chanced a ham and cheese toastie. The car arrived at 2pm, as arranged, and there was already an Oxalis customer in it who was going to Chay Lap before her tour the next day. I felt absolutely fine until just less than 5 minutes in to the journey when I got the excruciating stomach pain, hot sweats and a desperate need to go! Captain Caveman was not amused as we headed for the train station squat toilets which I had real trouble with because of my injured leg, I still can’t squat! Actually, I got down fine, it was the getting back up which was tricky and painful. We deduced it had to be the cheese that had affected me and, after apologising to the customer and driver, we were on our way back to Phong Nha with no further issues and a pretty ‘cheesed off’ Captain Caveman!

By the time we arrived in Phong Nha on Sunday 21st March, Captain Caveman didn’t have too much time before his next Son Doong briefing. He dropped me off at The Villas so that he could go to the Glass House, unpack and repack his bags for his next tour tomorrow and then cycle back down to meet me. I made the mistake of letting him take my bag too because we had thought we might stay at the Glass House that night.
Captain Caveman came to The Villas before I’d drank my cup of tea and he ordered a beer and he asked if I’d let Tatas know we were there and that maybe she might want to join me for a margarita. Luc, a friend who was leaving to go to work in Malaysia on Friday and who had missed last week’s pizza night had said he might stop by to say farewell when I last spoke to him but he didn’t make it. Tatas came and we had a couple of margaritas while Captain Caveman went to his briefing, then she ordered french fries and I asked for the confit duck leg without chillies but I got it with chillies in the lentils so I just ate the duck, which was very tasty. Captain Caveman came back from Oxalis Home and I told him I had decided I wasn’t staying at the Glass House as it made sense for me to go home with Ben, who had kindly offered a lift back to Elements. Captain Caveman decided to come home too, so after another margarita, we left with Ben late and I completely forgot that my bag was still at the Glass House.

Phong Nha – 18th & 19th March

Phong Nha – 18th & 19th March

It was great weather here in Phong Nha on Thursday 18th March and I had my bikini on for the second time this week. It was the first time I actually swam in the pool too, even though it was still a bit too chilly in the water. Our garden was looking really good and I admired all the pretty flowers around the place. I heard from Captain Caveman to say he wouldn’t be back as he thought and would probably go straight to his briefing on Sunday 21st so I might not get to see him much before his next tour. I had a Snickers which gave me a bad stomach and so I was convinced it was the lactose in it. For dinner I had chicken, salami and pasta with onions, green beans, and olives in a tomato sauce with spaghetti and a couple of small glasses of the wine I still had from Tuesday.
I was able to spend no money at all today which made up for the previous day’s expenses!

There was a quieter loudspeaker announcement on Friday 19th March but it still woke me up! I had a bad stomach before I even ate anything and could only put it down to the pasta having gluten in last night, perhaps. I’d had toast for breakfast, my stomach was back to normal and, because tonight was pizza night, I just had popcorn for lunch. I was on the balcony, shade bathing, when the cleaners came – they were now on to afternoon visits instead of the morning. I wasn’t prepared for them and so all I could do was sit on my sunlounger and finish off the rest of the wine from Tuesday.
The minibus for pizza night picked me and Veronika up – there was already Hamish, Ania, Mik, Kendra, Bryan, Matija and Daria on it and we were off to The Villas to celebrate the last night as a group. It got messy, we drank loads and ate so much pizza I thought I might need a lay down!
Kendra and I shared 2 bottles of red wine which Matija said was shit (it’s my favourite one) and he was hilarious at being a Croatian wine buff. We all had pizza except for Mik who attempted to eat the confit duck leg and a portion of french fries. I told him the chocolate almond cake was better than sex so he had a piece and had to agree, as did some of the others who had a taste too! We didn’t have a late night as Hamish and Ania were booked on a 5.30am train to Danang the next morning, while the remaining three were leaving in the afternoon. I had spent 650,000vnd (£20 ish) and was sad that my new friends, who made me laugh a lot, were leaving. We made plans that Captain Caveman and I would go to Danang to meet up with them in the next couple of months. Hamish and Ania already had plans to return to Phong Nha and had been thinking of staying longer.

Phong Nha – 17th March

Phong Nha – 17th March

St. Patrick’s Day this year was one to remember and the Phong Nha Farmstay certainly did their best to help with that! On Wednesday 17th March the tannoy was going off at 5.30am and we had put in a complaint to the tourism board to get it turned off, or at least down. It was hot and very humid as I had my toast for breakfast then got ready for our Bong Lai Valley trip at 11am. Ben drove the jeep with Hamish, Mik, Kendra, Bryan, Daria and Matija and finally me in it. On the way there Ben likes to give the jeep a good go through the river and at one particular spot where we were about to cross, there was an old fella on his motorbike, stuck in the river. We waited but then Ben got impatient and decided to try to cross and we got stuck. We had to climb out into the water as the back of the jeep started to sink in a bit and then the engine wouldn’t start. Quy from the Pub with Cold Beer came and they sent a truck for towing us out. It was really exciting and then I got special disabled rights of a lift to the pub on the back of Quy’s motorbike, while the others walked the last bit of the way. As always the BBQ chicken, pork, nem lui, sticky rice and peanut sauce were amazing and I ate quite a lot. We saved some for Ben, who had gone to get the vehicle fixed and I chatted a lot to Daria. I managed to drink 2 Saigon beers and had no ill effects while Hamish, Kendra and Bryan went in the pool.

Ben arrived with a fixed jeep and the owner insisted on extra chillies in his sauces and a coke. When we got back I had a shower and got changed so we could meet back up for the St Paddy’s Day pool party, organised by Ben and Bich at the Phong Nha Farmstay. It was too cold for me to swim so I had a couple of ciders and chatted with Mik. Hamish had been a bit down because his girlfriend, Ania, had told him she couldn’t make it to Phong Nha as she needed to stay in Saigon to sort out her work permit but Kendra had been keeping a secret all day. Ania was on her way here and would be arriving at the Farmstay at 8pm. We had all ordered food but Bich told us the kitchen had some issues so we had to wait but it was really so that Ania could join us for dinner. While Hamish went to plug in his phone Ania arrived and hid behind the bar, Kendra sent him over to order another drink and we were all shocked at how speechless Hamish was when Ania was stood there!
There was a special menu of sausages, chips and curry sauce/gravy which I had, some of the others had meat pie instead. And the lovely Ania had even brought some homemade cheesecake for us all. I had such an exciting day, full of laughter, food and drink (my favourite things) but tomorrow I would need to stay in and watch the money a bit more carefully!

Phong Nha – 15th & 16th March

Phong Nha – 15th & 16th March

Things got out of hand on Monday 15th March, and what should have been a boring Monday morning was quite stressful. Hamish was meant to have been going on an Oxalis tour but was taken to Dong Hoi hospital because of a serious asthma attack. I had a couple more issues to deal with which were an unnecessary waste of time, before I’d even had time to eat breakfast of toast, and it was a rather hot day that I was missing out on! I turned my phone off and decided to get the new bikini on and have a dip in the pool – the water was freezing!
I had carrot cake for lunch, which made me have a bad stomach and then I just lay on the sunlounger while learning Vietnamese on Duolingo.
Later that afternoon Hamish discharged himself and came back to The Farmstay, luckily looking like he would live! For dinner I just had hummus and rice crackers as my stomach was still iffy, so no more cake for me!

Tuesday 16th March started early again with the loudspeaker at 5.30am.
In the news today there were reports of a possibility of allowing foreign tourists in to Vietnam in July but still nothing concrete to go on, read it here:
https://vietnamnews.vn/economy/904845/viet-nam-needs-to-open-borders-for-tourism-recovery-experts.html
I took Bluey, my bicycle, to the Farmstay via the French Road and it took me exactly 20 minutes. I sat by the pool where there was a good breeze and ordered pho bo, green tea and a soda water. The cycling was getting easier and I wasn’t as thirsty and out of breath when I arrived. Hamish came to join me, he still really didn’t look too well. Mik came over with Kendra and Bryan, two of their Danang friends, who had just arrived and were heading out on motorbikes for a look around Phong Nha. I liked them both straight away and I knew we would all get on well. Hamish added me to their Facebook chat group so that I could be included in any activities with them all, which was nice.
When I got back home it had only taken me 18 minutes 38 seconds, Veronika and Howie had gone for lunch at The Villas and I had leftover Sunday dinner for my lunch. Later I made popcorn and ate 6 of the expensive dates that I still had. I put in my order for shepherd’s pie at the Farmstay that night and went up a bit earlier so that I could meet Kendra and Bryan properly.
I was out of red wine at home so I bought a bottle and would take what I didn’t drink home, I had also taken tuppaware with me for leftovers but there were none.
Hamish, Mik, Kendra and Bryan were booked in for a trip to the Bong Lai Valley the next day and invited me too. As I was leaving Ben said I should come on the trip tomorrow as we would be going to the Pub with Cold Beer for lunch and I do love it there!

Phong Nha – the 2nd weekend of March

Phong Nha – the 2nd weekend of March

After a busy start to the weekend I planned to have a relaxed and easy going Saturday on 13th March. I had buttered toast for breakfast and had suffered no ill effects of that, or the pizza from the night before. I decided to make pork and sweetcorn fried rice for lunch and made far too much so saved the rest for dinner. Captain Caveman and Quyen had returned to Phong Nha from their Hang Va cave trip but I didn’t meet either of them. Captain Caveman went to The Villas for food and then got on the bus to Hanoi at 7pm, he was off on an exploration holiday for a week with our Sapa friends, Phil and Hoa, in Tuyen Quang. Quyen had still to find herself somewhere to stay so went for Tropical Homestay. We arranged to meet the next day rather than for dinner because of either one of us having to cycle in the dark, which wasn’t a good idea.

On Sunday 14th March it was Mother’s Day and so I tried to make sure I was busy enough to avoid worrying about my mom not being able to have a Mother’s Day celebration, back in Sheffield. My parents were still staying at home and now the celebrations were coming back around again – who would have thought a year later it would be like this!
Captain Caveman had arrived in My Dinh (Hanoi) bus station around 5am and had 3 hours to wait for another bus to Tuyen Quang, while I didn’t wake up until 7am. Quyen and I had arranged for her to borrow a bicycle from Tropical Homestay and cycle to my place so that we could then ride the long way to the Farmstay for lunch.
Quyen arrived, later than expected, after it took her almost an hour to get here and she got lost a bit. The ride to the Farmstay was really nice and we took it easy so that she could admire the country side and rice paddy views. My friend absolutely loved it and I was pleased because I was worried she would find the route too easy. We sat by the pool at the Farmstay and ordered some wine, where I introduced Quyen to Veronika, Bich, Matty & Hamish and their friend from Danang, Richard.
Our food came and it was really good; Quyen had the seafood banh xeo, Matty chicken quesadillas with chilli jam, Hamish a chicken salad and I had nem lui.
Both Richard and Quyen were going to Dong Hoi that afternoon so they arranged to share Quyen’s car which she had already booked and we got ready to leave so she could get back in time. I was going to pay but Quyen wouldn’t have any of it and paid for our wine and lunch which was really kind and unexpected. On the cycle back we took some photos, it was a lovely day and I even caught the sun, despite the factor 50 suncream. I decided I would go to the Farmstay to eat Sunday dinner with Matty, Hamish, Mik and new guest, John.
John had already met Captain Caveman when he came to Phong Nha before and had been cycling with him so we chatted about that. I shared the bottle of white wine which Matty had bought while the others had beer or water. The Sunday roast was lovely, as usual, and I took some home with my carrot cake that I couldn’t manage.
I stayed up late so that I could video call my mom and dad and we had a good chat, luckily they are keeping safe and staying at home but I was definitely missing seeing them a lot. By midnight I realised I might be a bit noisy so we finished the call and I went to sleep.

Phong Nha – 12th March

Phong Nha – 12th March

Being woken up by a massive cockerel crowing at 6am on Friday 12th March is not how I had envisaged my weekend starting. There were many reasons I didn’t really want to stay at the Glass House including; no longer being registered there for immigration purposes, not having my trusty shower shoes, still being unable to get down stairs easily and most importantly wondering how on earth I would get home once Captain Caveman went off on his trip to Hang Va. Captain Caveman gave me his keys so I could get out of the building and suggested I cycle on my old bicycle to The Villas and just stay there until pizza night, when I’d then get a lift home.
I had an extra hour in bed after Captain Caveman left, with a rough plan for me to see him on the 20th March. I managed to find my rubber sandals which I used as shower shoes and I found a few items that I could take home with me, including contact lenses. I managed to get down the stairs of the Glass House with my rucksack fairly easily compared to how I used to so I was definitely improving. It was a bit tricky getting the old bicycle out of the door and then it started to rain a little. I didn’t like riding my old bicycle at all, the right pedal was sloping downwards and my bad foot kept slipping off. It took me 13 minutes to ride the 2km distance as I had to go so slowly.
For breakfast I decided to treat myself seeing as I was at the nicest restaurant in town and I ordered 2 servings of bacon, hash browns and baked beans with a camomile tea. The bacon was great, crispy, the beans were hot but I wasn’t a fan of the new hash browns which were more like balls of mashed potato with a thin crust, like a potato croquette. I caught up on some blogging, using the spacious back room to work from and then when Tatas stopped by for coffee I (stupidly) decided to have a hot chocolate with cream. Since being able to tolerate eating gluten again I am really struggling with uncooked dairy and I think egg, although it’s still difficult to tell. I spent the next few hours in and out of the toilet and feeling rubbish.
Momma D was back in Phong Nha after a couple of weeks away looking after her sick friend and was keen to meet up. We arranged 2.30pm so she could get to work at her rooftop bar later and she brought her cute dog, Kevin. Momma D was a bit disappointed when I told her I was only drinking water because of my stomach as she had hoped to share a bottle of wine, I told her to go ahead without me but instead she had a coffee.

Feeling a bit weak and drained, I quite fancied just going home for a lay down but I couldn’t do that for the following reasons:
Tatas was on her way back from caving, Mik was on his way back to Phong Nha, both of those plus Veronika, Hamish and Matty were on their way over to Pizza Night, and there was no way I was cycling my old bicycle any further so I had no transport. I bought a bottle of wine for me and Tatas to share (it was my turn) but didn’t start drinking it and we sat at the usual table inside. Mik arrived and they were all on G&Ts when Hamish decided Tequilas were in order. I explained I didn’t want to join in, I was struggling to even take a sip of wine until after a bit of pizza and I sat out on the shots. Veronika decided to sit outside with the other Farmstay guests and even Ben wondered why Hamish and I prefer indoor dining when it’s warm – the mozzies love to bite us too much.
The pizzas were as good as usual, with my favourites being the Showstopper (blue cheese, proscuitto, fig jam and spring onion) and the Momma D (salami, mushroom, feta and olive) – yes Momma D has a pizza named after her! Hamish, Matty, Mik and Tatas were really getting down the tequilas and everyone was laughing, joking and in good spirits(!) Some of Tatas’ customers arrived, as expected, at The Villas so she went to eat with them and I insisted she take the rest of the wine with her. We decided to get the first pick up service back home and the blokes spoke of getting more drinks when they got back to the Farmstay. I needed my bed, it had been a long day!

Photo credit – The Villas

Phong Nha – 11th March

Phong Nha – 11th March

I was awake at 5.20am on Thursday 11th March and was just about to fall back to sleep when the loudest tannoy announcement ever, came on! I know it’s meant to be to tell all the villagers the news, instead of newspapers or the internet, but it really does go on and I’m convinced some of it is totally not newsworthy. Today I think they had either turned up the volume or erected another speaker nearer to Veronika’s side of the house. I got up, it was still dark as I had my buttered toast and jasmine tea back in bed. I had saved some pork fat and scraps of lamb for Ky, the dog, so I gave them to one of the housekeeping staff and then decided to make an omelette, chopping half of it up for egg fried rice and saving the other half for Captain Caveman to have for breakfast before his next trip tomorrow. For my lunch I had my leftover shepherd’s pie and in the afternoon I was meant to be meeting Captain Caveman and Quyen at The Villas and needed to arrange transport. Quyen who lives in Saigon was coming to do the Hang Va trip with Captain Caveman and would be staying at Chay Lap that night.
At The Villas I had time for one margarita before the pick up car arrived which only just had room to fit us all. Quyen had kindly brought us several packets of the masaman curry paste from Saigon which we love and would make us lots of meals. We still had no plans as to how I would get home as I had made it clear I would not be walking in the dark, going on a bicycle or a motorbike once I’d had a drink and Captain Caveman agreed this would be fine!

When we arrived at Chay Lap Captain Caveman made sure I got a hand to get up the big step to the bar and I ordered a Margarita. Quyen had gone to check in to her room then borrowed a bicycle to go for a bit of exploring of the local area. Captain Caveman’s gala dinner started and I sat sipping my margarita at the bar and I ordered some sweet potato fries to nibble on so that I didn’t get too drunk as I was already on my third margarita. Last year Chay Lap had some nice vegetarian options and even some western choices but now it was mainly Vietnamese food. We ate pork ribs, chicken skewers, cabbage and rice and most of it came without chillies as requested, except for the aubergine on the chicken skewers which was very spicy.
Captain Caveman came over to say we needed to rescue him soon as they were nearly down a bottle of rice wine but he had another tour to go on tomorrow and didn’t want to be drunk. Quyen and Captain Caveman were off to Hang Va for 2 days the next day and, although Quyen was staying for longer, Captain Caveman would be going straight to Hanoi, by the overnight bus, then further north for a week. Captain Caveman picked up the tab for both me and Quyen and we left her talking to the rest of her Hang Va group, who seemed a nice bunch of people.
I would have preferred to go home but Captain Caveman said we would go to a belated Women’s Day celebration at Bom’s place. When we arrived the only woman there was Quet, Bom’s wife, everyone was drunk and they insisted on Captain Caveman and I chugging warm beer while some bloke sang terribly loud karaoke songs. We walked, in the dark, holding hands for my balance, back to the Glass House to sleep there for the night. It was surprising to see how easy it was to get up the steps and it wasn’t nearly as difficult to do all 4 sets of stairs to our room. Captain Caveman still has a room there with all his caving gear and luckily I still had a few things in a drawer so had spare clothes. Even the bed was made – it was like we were camping for the night, but I wasn’t looking forward to tomorrow’s arrangements for getting out of the Glass House.

Phong Nha – 10th March

Phong Nha – 10th March

Having had a restful day yesterday, it came as no surprise that Wednesday 10th March was likely to be a bit livelier! I woke up with the loudspeaker noise (again) at 5.30am and I was really hungry. I had toast and arranged with Bich to get a lift to The Villas to attempt to retrieve my bicycle, Bluey, who had been abandoned there since Margarita Monday.
At The Villas I joined Veronika, Matty and Howie while Bich did work stuff. Howie and Matty ordered ice-cream, I ordered some lunch from the vegetarian menu, the potato, artichoke and edamame bean salad which was an old favourite of mine. Unfortunately there was a bit of a mix up when I ordered this dish from the vegetarian menu but the waitress knows I’m not a vegetarian because I eat meat, so I initially got the fish version, which I couldn’t eat. Veronika ended up eating it while I had a new one made and they all went back to the Farmstay by car, while I finished my delicious veggie food while contemplating the cycle back. I realised it was getting hotter and windier which would make my cycle home harder so I paid my 130,000vnd (£4) and set off.
The cycle ride was hard work but I tried to focus on keeping my leg in line and applying equal pressure with each leg. As I wiped the sweat from my eyes and wished I’d brought my sunglasses I came to a bit of a hill and I was finding the pedalling very difficult when Jack rode past on his motorbike as I neared a cafe and saw Vinh who I used to work with a few years ago too and had to shout to both that I couldn’t stop, mainly because I wouldn’t get going again if I did. When I got back home it had taken me almost 41 minutes (4 minutes slower than on the way there for Margarita Monday) and I was so purple everyone at Elements looked worried. I went straight in the shower to cool down and found I was very hungry after my almost 9km bike ride against a head wind and in hot sun. I had bread and hummus as a snack, realising I still hadn’t eaten my left over dinner from Sunday. I decided to stay in that night as I was knackered and couldn’t sit very well. I had leftover Sunday dinner and an early night after a busy (for me) day. I was just pleased to have managed to cycle home without getting off the bicycle, abandoning Bluey or have to call someone for help!

Phong Nha – 9th March

Phong Nha – 9th March

The first things I did when I woke up at 7am on Tuesday 9th March were; drink water, double up on oresol and check my purse to see how much money I had spent last night. Captain Caveman was away for over a week so my day 1 of managing my ‘housekeeping’ had gone a bit mad. I’d spent about £17 (530,000) yesterday and didn’t even have any dinner! I was starving so I had some toast then went back to bed. I was hungover all day, my stomach was really bad and I didn’t do anything or go anywhere. There was no chance of me going to get Bluey, especially when Veronika said the journey back had been terrible, much harder in the opposite direction.
I eventually managed to get myself sorted and go for Shepherd’s Pie night at the Farmstay where I learned that Matty had still made it to work and Mik had managed a train back to Danang. I was feeling rough and so had water and half my shepherd’s pie before I had to go back home. I forgot to pay the 160,000 vnd (£5) but thought I would go up for breakfast tomorrow.
I was grateful for being in bed by 8.30pm that night and had a word with myself not to get too giddy on Margarita Mondays in future!

Phong Nha – 8th March

Phong Nha – 8th March

Monday 8th March was rather exciting for me as I achieved a couple of my progress goals. First I had to contend with the loudspeaker noise and waking up soaked in sweat at 5.30am! Captain Caveman was off to Son Doong for 4 days and was up and out earlier than he needed to be. I couldn’t get back to sleep so I watched more Amazing Hotels, ate carrot cake for breakfast which I had a bad reaction to!

Matty was due back from Saigon, Hamish and Mik were due back from their Hang En trip and it was Margarita Monday so arrangements were made to meet at The Villas later. My dodgy stomach had gone by 1.30pm when Veronika and I bravely set off on our bicycles to cycle the 8.9km to The Villas. This was about to be the first attempt at cycling this distance all in one journey and it was quite a hot day for it. Matty had messaged to say he would get his taxi from the airport to drop him straight to The Villas.
The news in Vietnam reported that discussions have started about international tourism and the potential reopening of the country, but it still seemed a while off:
https://tuoitrenews.vn/news/business/20210308/vietnam-eyes-stepwise-plan-to-reopen-to-foreign-tourists/59656.html
Meanwhile back home today was the start of the new UK plan to come out of lockdown. Today, back in England, everyone is allowed to meet one other person in a park and I genuinely wondered how the logistics of that would work and wanted to ask everyone I knew in England who they chose and why – had the person you chose already chose someone else perhaps?


Veronika was faster than me on her bicycle and there were sections where she was way ahead as we cycled along the road passing what used to be The Bomb Crater Bar and Sy’s homestay. I saw a bright yellow and green snake as we neared the underpass not far from Magic Fingers massage place and homestay. My knee didn’t hurt but my bum certainly did by the time we arrived at our destination 37 minutes later with a bit of a sweat on! Bluey was parked up with the intention I would get a lift to come ride her back tomorrow but I seriously wondered if I would be able to even move tomorrow. We sat at a table by the river hoping for a peaceful rest and we ordered juices from a new waitress, Van, who I wished Happy Women’s Day in Vietnamese, while we waited for Matty. Veronika had already eaten lunch so she ordered a panacotta while I decided to try something I had never had before – a chicken, bacon, lettuce and gherkin sandwich with chips.

By the time Matty arrived the next door place to The Villas had the karaoke blasting out and so Veronika decided to cycle home while Matty and I moved to sit at the back of the The Villas, near the pool. We ordered margaritas and got free popcorn but Matty had to work at 6am the next day so didn’t want to drink too much. That went out of the window when we moved to another table, nearer the bar but still outside, and Hamish and Mik arrived. They were straight on the Gin and Tonics, we got another margarita and then the tequilas made an appearance. It sounded like they had an exciting Hang En trip and gave us an update of their 2 day adventure. Vu and little Ngoc, were also at The Villas and they insisted on buying me another margarita for Women’s Day and we decided to test out the dancefloor. I even had a dance with the security guard who is always really nice and helpful to me – my first dance as a duo in almost 11 months. Poor Manu, the manager, was a bit nervous I might fall and so was there looking out for me. I was quite safe though and I was so grateful to have cycled nearly 9km, including getting over a bridge, and was able to dance again – progress indeed. We had such a good time but we all forgot to order any dinner and I think the Margarita Mondays might be getting out of hand a bit!