Rather than a helpful ‘how to save money when travelling’ (to be found in abundance on the Internet) this is more a personal recollection of things I’ve not spent money on since being a lady of leisure.
1) handbags – I no longer buy them and use either a cloth bag for the beach and a donated one which was being thrown away. Generally when out together Captain Caveman is in charge of keys and money (He always has pockets).
2) Clothes – I only buy what I absolutely need and tend to wear everything until it gets worn out. I don’t follow fashions and have clothes made in local places.
3) Cosmetics/Products – I don’t own any makeup and I use only hotel miniature toiletries (freebies) or my solid shampoo and conditioner bars from Lush which last for ages. The only thing I do spend money on is suncream.
4) Phone credit – I have relied on free wifi in the places we stayed and visited, I got a SIM card for Vietnam where pay as you go is cheap. For Turkey and UK I have a Vodafone sim which I top up and get the extra bundle deals when I can.
5) Pop – we have given up drinking sugary/fizzy drinks, usually because of when it’s hot and we are thirsty it’s easy to over indulge. We still have fresh juices but without added sugar where possible. I just drink water or alcohol and the odd diet coke, cocktail or smoothie when out. Most places provide free water bottle refills.

6) Snacks – apart from the odd bag of crisps we try not to eat between meals and the snacks we are used to from our home country are often limited, non-existent or expensive abroad.
7) Souvenirs – I’ve bought nothing at all that I don’t need and when people I’m with have shopped, I’ve resisted.
8) Sunglasses – I still haven’t broken the pair I bought in Turkey for $5 about 12 years ago.
9) Books or other reading material – we used book swaps where ever we found good ones so that we read for free, even if they are a bit sticky from other people’s sun lotion.
10) Memberships and subscriptions – since leaving my home country I no longer have any direct debits, am not a member of any clubs and have no regular payments out for anything I don’t need. I don’t buy magazines, I’m no longer in the wine club and I don’t have a gym membership I don’t use.

With hindsight I could have adopted these while I was still working in the UK and could have saved more money for my trip. If you’re thinking of going off on your travels why not try it and see how much money it saves you.

I woke a few times on the sleeper bus from Phong Nha to Hanoi which had been surprisingly fine. The journey was fast and noisy but overall not too bad and even the toilet was clean(ish). We did stop about 20 minutes out of Hanoi in a garage and the driver had a 1 hour break from just after 5am.
When we got off the bus I took the bags in a Grab taxi while Captain Caveman cycled to Puku cafe.

It was 6:30am and I was about to have my first of three breakfasts!! The sausage, bacon and (initially chilled) beans at Puku were not as good as the amazing breakfast options in Phong Nha but I ate it and had a very fresh camomile tea with it. We had to wait until after 9:30am so I got sleepy and decided a second breakfast of fruit salad and yogurt might do me good – it did.
We left our luggage at Himalaya Phoenix Apartments, where we would stay for 4 nights, and walked to Home 38, a cafe nearby. They do an amazing all day breakfast so I had that for lunch. In the afternoon, just after check-in Captain Caveman went to the dentist and I had a little rest before my first Vietnamese lesson at 5pm, by which time it was raining pretty heavily and I got soaked.
My first class at Vietlesson went well and was followed by wine and nibbles at a sports bar, called The Local. I took a Grab motorbike there and was saturated by the time I got there and was quite uncomfortable sat in a wet dress in the cold, air-conditioned room. We still managed a dinner at Cugini, a great Italian restaurant near to where we were staying, where the food was excellent.
Back at Himalayan Phoenix a hot shower, my new T-Shirt and bed was all I needed. I set my alarm so that I could finish my homework early before my next class.

My last day in Phong Nha this year fell on Friday 30th August. I’d been here the longest of each of the years I’d been coming (more than 32 weeks) and I was definitely looking forward to seeing my family and friends in Turkey next month. This was also the first year that I had chosen not to go back to the UK and that was a bit tough, knowing I wouldn’t catch up with my mates back ‘home’. First, though, I was excited to finally be starting Vietnamese lessons with Lien at Viet Lesson in Hanoi – the same teacher who had taught Captain Caveman, and other westerners living in Phong Nha. On my last day we had breakfast at Coffee Station, lunch at Victory Road Villas, a cheeky cider at Ho Khanh’s and dinner at Chao Vietnam on our last day – all were fantastic as usual. I even got to say bye to Milo and Bomb (dogs) as well as Billy the friendly goat. It was a rainy day and so Khanh Linh arranged a Jungle Boss car for me to town with my massive suitcase (containing a slow cooker, and a selection of freshly made clothes).
It was also my first time going all the way to Hanoi on a sleeper bus which left Easy Tiger at 9:30pm. Most of the other expats and some Vietnamese friends had warned me off getting the bus because it’s uncomfortable and dangerous but Captain Caveman had to take that method due to him taking a bicycle with him!
My good friends Uy and Chung were there to see us off on to the bus and had even got us a gift of a t-shirt, earplugs and an eye mask plus I was travelling with the pillow they made me last year too.
Anetta made it back from her Son Doong trip a day early and came to see us off too and it was good to have time for one last wine together. Aussie Pete, Trevor and Martin also came to see us off but in a much more relaxed manner. I would only be gone for 4 months and Captain Caveman was due back to Phong Nha in 5 days.
When we got on the bus they made Captain Caveman go to the back and I got the second one back, on the bottom left. I had downloaded some Netflix to watch too – Mindhunter and The Fall.
By 9:45pm Phong Nha was behind me and I had already nodded off!!

To those who know me it’s pretty obvious I love good food although I am very difficult to cater for because I have allergies and am extremely fussy. When I first visited Phong Nha I craved cheese and decent wine but over the years the amount of restaurants and cafes providing all types of delicious food has improved immensely and there are many places I enjoyed eating at this summer. All my meals have been gluten free and without chillies so I’ve listed all the restaurants where I ate a few times. They are not in any particular order and the ones with a * are also places to stay (homestay/hotel/hostel).

1. Little Vietnam
I love the pho ga (chicken noodle soup) there and they also do a good sized portion of fried rice.

2. Sunflowers
My favourite dishes are mushroom curry and the fresh spring rolls but all the food is pretty good.

3. Phong Nha Vegan
This one is about 3km from the main town centre but they do a delivery service. I always have the same few dishes; mushroom la lot, banh cuon, and any of the soups are fantastic, especially the mushroom!

4. Funny Monkeys*
Near to the church (but don’t let that put you off) the owners are lovely and the BBQ food is really tasty. They also do some great passion fruit drinks and the beer is always cold.

5. Coco House*
One of the places I have been eating at since it first opened and the chef has skills. I highly recommend the clay pot dishes and the sweet potato fries are probably the best in Phong Nha.

6. A Little Leaf*
Seriously good seafood served here as well as being a contender for coldest beer. The owner is knowledgeable and will let you try his special tea too. I love the BBQ prawns, spring rolls and the scallops the most.

7. Vung Hue
One of the original eateries in Phong Nha and they still have some of the best food in town. A family owned business with a great menu, if you are eating alone you can try the mixed plate. As a group there is so much to share to enjoy a selection of pork, beef and veggie dishes. The spring rolls are good, the stewed pork excellent and the pork ribs delicious.

8. Thang Nhung BBQ
This place has got it spot on for pork lovers! Anything from breakfast through to evening meal is so tasty and cheap. Surprisingly they do one of the best tofu soups I’ve tried too.

9. Banh Xeo market stall
One of the best value meals in Phong Nha and is situated at a small space on the left as you enter the local market area. The pork and shrimp crispy rice pancakes are great and it’s served pretty fast when you want to keep ordering more. Great for lunch or dinner but get there early.

10. Lucky Home (formerly Lucky Lucky)*
Situated on the river about 1km out of town it has the perfect views for watching the boats go by. The owners give excellent service despite limited English and they have some of the best snacks (peanuts) in town.

11. D-Arts
This is directly opposite Easy Tiger has great staff who will make you feel very welcome. The bun cha comes in 3 sizes and is the best in town! There is a comfy chill out seating area inside for drinking a chilled cider or cold beer too.

12. Phong Nha River House*
Ideal for a group booking for dinner this place has some of the best pork dishes I’ve had in Phong Nha. Set on the river about 3km from the town centre. The chef is excellent, the portions are a good size and if you fancy western style chips here probably has the best ones! I’d recommend booking in advance.

13. Jungle Boss Homestay*
This is a place to go for either breakfast or dinner and you should book in advance. The evening buffet style dinner is superb and if you get chance to try the garlic pumpkin dish you should. They also have a pool, some of the nicest staff and a smiley bartender to make your experience a good one.

14. Carambola Bungalows*
A great place with nice views of the river and an extensive menu. The pork dishes are the best. This place also has wine which is a bonus and is in a quiet part of town.

15. Restful River Bungalows*
This was my place to go for a lunch break. The staff are friendly, the pool and River loaction are great and the food is simple but tasty. My favourites are the fried rice and the chicken stir fry dishes. They have a well stocked drinks fridge too.

16. Oxalis Home*
I absolutely love the tofu dish and the chicken and cashew dish here. It’s on the river and has lots of seating in the shade with good views.

17. Momma D’s
Known for its amazing cocktails, craft beer and incredible sunset views this rooftop bar is a gem. The peanuts and french fries are my favourite snacks here but you can also order from various different menus (Indian, Vietnamese, Italian) as well as their own food menu. Ideal with a bottle of decent wine!

18. Namaste
If you’re craving Indian food then this is the place to go, the menu is extensive and the beer is probably the coldest in Phong Nha. I often have the special menu which works out cheaper. I bet Raj, the manager could tell you my favourite dish – bhuna murgh with garlic rice!! Service is ace too.

19. Chao Vietnam
One of the newer places serving modern interpretations of classic Vietnamese dishes from around the country. Great menu, excellent wine and a cool place to eat. My favourites are pretty much everything on the menu and the spring rolls are fantastic.

20. Easy Tiger*
You can’t go wrong with eating at this well known hostel, plenty to choose from and the staff are well trained. I enjoy the stir fry and the sausages here the most but there is so much to choose from. The wine is good value for money too.

21. Capture Cafe
Next door to Easy Tiger and famous for its pizzas. My gluten free favourites are the bacon, beans and potatoes for breakfast, the fab smoothies and the bolognese with potato wedges. I’ve been known to create my own salad too. This place is my favourite for wine and picking up western style snacks (they have crisps)!

22. Bamboo cafe
My favourite dishes here are the pork kebabs and the beef stew. The staff speak good English and are friendly, including the owner who may get the guitar out and sing now and again. The cocktails are strong and beers cold.

23. Veggie Box
Another vegan restaurant which I am a massive fan of the hotpot – it’s great value for money, so healthy and tastes delicious. If you are by yourself order vegan soup which is the hotpot for one, already prepared and in the bowl. The coconut rice is so good and a chat with Ha, the waitress, makes everyone’s day.

24. Coffee Station
It’s worth saying I don’t like coffee but this cute cafe is still one of my favourites for breakfast. The fruit salad with homemade yogurt is filling and the smoothie bowls are just the thing to sort out a hangover. Dare I say the herbal tea is excellent.

25. Underground
One of my favourite places to eat in Phong Nha because I have much more gluten free choices with a western flare. The Forever Pork, the tamarind chicken dish and the fresh garden rolls are the best. The passion fruit smoothie is also excellent. Not the cheapest but you are getting excellent quality at this restaurant.

26. The Villas at Victory Road Villas*
This place is a bit of a treat! I love that it has some of the best staff working here and that there is a good menu selection. If you are looking for cheap eats, this is not the place but you certainly get good value. My favourite dishes are the confit duck leg with lentils, pho ga (for breakfast), potato gratin with asparagus and truffle oil and the potato and edamame bean salad. The wine is moreish, the happy hour a bit too good and popcorn is often served with your drinks. I can recommend the margaritas.

27. Moi Moi
I got a car there on several occasions but you can go by motorbike or bicycle (if you and the bicycle are fit enough). My favourite dish there is the bamboo pork but the casava dumplings and chicken are also good. The food is as fresh as it comes so probably best to order in advance. Great for groups and very relaxed.

28. The Pub with Cold Beer
This certainly lives up to its name but could just have easily been named the pub with the best chicken and peanut sauce. It’s a bit of a cycle ride and if it’s rainy I’d take a car or motorbike. The food is simple but brilliant if you love BBQ chicken and aren’t allergic to peanuts! I could drink that sauce, it’s that good.

29. East Hill
Also a BBQ chicken place but good to hang out at sunset. The food is cheap and tasty and has cold Tiger beers and a good selection of juices.

30. Phong Nha Farmstay*
One of my favourite places to visit when I want to get away from the Phong Nha town centre. They have a mix of western and Vietnamese food and there is a massive wine selection and a fully stocked bar. Service is impressive and it’s a great place to chill out by the pool or by the fire – an all weather kind of place.

Captain Caveman and Julia were picked up to go on their Jungle Boss tour to Tiger Cave for 3 days/2 nights while I had been invited to Ho Khanh’s, to a BBQ party at 3pm. We live nearby and often go to visit most days as it is the place Captain Caveman and his colleagues hang out, have great coffee or have a swim in the river.

The party was already started when I arrived, there were big bowls of beers and ciders in ice and water, even the dogs were impressed with the selection of drinks provided. The steak was unbelievably tender and juicy and I had 3 pieces, plus salad (no dressing), so was pretty healthy.

A good selection of guests were there and it was nice to see quite a few friends enjoying the new waterslide, including the adults! Once the rice wine came out and the more sensible guests had left I decided to make my move and leave. The next week was going to be my last full week in Phong Nha and it was already looking hectic, especially as I was about to share my room for a few days!

Our friend, Julia, was coming to visit for 5 days so that she and Captain Caveman could join the Jungle Boss tour, Tiger Cave Series Adventure. That morning we were awake early and in the car by 6:30am on our way to Dong Hoi airport via Chay Lap. I had a bad stomach and almost didn’t go but once we got to Chay Lap to pick up 5 of Captain Caveman’s Son Doong customers we had a bit of a wait as they were all still eating breakfast. Luckily Julia’s flight wasn’t due to land until 08:35am so by the time we had said our goodbyes and walked to the arrivals she was here.
We ‘checked her in’ to our spare room and made arrangements for her to borrow my old bicycle so we could go for a late breakfast at Victory Road Villas. Later we had a couple of cold drinks at Easy Tiger, with Josh too, and then went to D’Arts for the best Bun Cha in town.

I’d already had a couple of ciders and a pepsi when Captain Caveman decided we would be going on a bike ride around Phong Nha, just as it started to get sunny – I had no hat or suncream and even Josh decided to go home but Julia was totally up for it. Of course they zoomed off and I didn’t see Captain Caveman for dust, while Julia felt she had a duty of care to stay with me, especially as I had already moaned it was too hot, it was too far, I didn’t know the way and that Captain Caveman never waits for me. Eventually even she got bored of me being quite a ‘slowy’ and went to catch up but I saw them ahead turn in to a new homestay called Escape.
I had a water and stuck my hot (as in sweaty) legs in the pool to try to cool down while Captain Caveman explained the next exciting part of the route which would bring us the long way to our house. I was assured that it was really easy and Captain Caveman promised he would be right next to us.

Of course it wasn’t easy, I got chased by dogs, splattered with mud by a child who was scooping muddy water from a puddle with a tennis racket (I had to get off and give him what for!) then we got heavy rain. Apart from that, we saw a nice full rainbow which Captain Caveman missed because he sprinted off before the rain started without a word to either of us, so he could get the washing in.
Back home we had a few minutes to get ready and then we were cycling back down to town to eat dinner at Chao Vietnam where I needed wine – a rather delightful 2 carafes of Chardonnay to be precise.
We even witnessed the owner kill a snake, right next to a family with young kids, using only his flipflop – another first for me. Josh had joined us for a beer after his Son Doong briefing but we didn’t go out after dinner because all of them had a tour the next day. I, on the other hand, had a busy few days coming up – I had agreed to do a favour for a friend.

A civilised girls night out was planned before Jamie, our American friend, returned home and it turned out to be one of those Phong Nha memories that we will laugh about for some time.
My day started well with a healthy breakfast of garden rolls and herbal tea at Underground and more watching of The Vietnam War on Netflix. I had a simple lunch of cheese, rice crackers and cashew nuts before cycling in to town to shop at the market.

The girls (just four of us) were booked in for drinks at 5pm at Victory Road Villas so that we could enjoy ‘Happy Hour and a Half’, however this also clashed with Jamie’s ‘opening of a karaoke’ party in town.
I ate beef and pineapple rice from Chao Vietnam before heading to Victory Road Villas for just after 5pm where I was on my second margarita and had finished a bowl of popcorn when the first of the girls arrived. By the time Jamie joined us we were on the red wine and getting tipsy.

Eventually the last of the girls joined us and everyone (but me) was hungry so we went to Underground for dinner and more wine.
We also had more wine at Easy Tiger and Jamie convinced me to go to Andy’s Disco Bar – it’s the only late bar in town with a dancefloor and half decent music. Being a bit drunk we actually tried to go before it was open and we were sent away until 11pm, by which time we were hammered.

We needed an Andy’s stamp to get in and I wasn’t content with having one on my arm like normal people. Jamie’s shoes were hurting her and she wanted to go barefoot so we swapped and she got my comfy flip-flops in exchange for her sexy high nude sandals. I’ve not worn heels for years, although I love them, so I was loving prancing about and dancing in them. Jamie and I got invited to see some (husky) puppies out the back of the bar by Andy and we got involved with stroking, cuddling and feeding the cute little things.

August started with me dancing to some great tunes on a busy dance floor in Phong Nha’s only ‘night club’ – Andy’s. At my age it’s not a normal occurrence for me to frequent such establishments but I had been persuaded by the girls after drinking far too much on Wine Wednesday.
It turned out to be a good laugh and I didn’t get home until 1am (extremely rare for me). I still had on Jamie’s shoes which she’d let me keep and I was unsure how I’d made it up the 4 lots of stairs to my room.
I woke up at 5am to the sound of dogs barking and fighting and then had the hangover from hell. When one of the girls came to pick me up so I could retrieve my bicycle from Victory Road Villas, I was still in my pyjamas but didnt care, and we bumped in to the VRV owner. Breakfast of vegan soup with rice noodles and mint tea at Veggie Box sorted me out temporarily but then I went back to bed.

1) Go on a tour – most adventure tours will go ahead as planned or in a safely modified way so check with the company and get ready for your adventure. You will be out of the rain when you’re in a cave so there is no need to cancel any pre-booked tours.

2) Eat – there are so many good places to eat in Phong Nha that you will be spoiled for choice. A few places also do takeaway and delivery too.

3) Drink – grab a smoothie or a glass of wine. Lots of places will offer free water refills too so you can help reduce the amount of plastic.

4) Phong Nha cave – spend a half day on this trip from the Tourism Centre by boat which will drop you inside the cave for you to explore inside both caves.

Captain Caveman’s photo at Phong Nha Cave

5) Play pool – there are a few bars and hostels offering free pool tables including Easy Tiger, Sunflowers & Phong Nha Farmstay.

6) Read a book – you can often do a book swap or even buy a new book at a cheap price at Capture Cafe.

7) Get a massage – my favourite is Dr Sy of Magic Fingers, he’s very good and great value. If you’re staying at Chay Lap Farmstay resort they also offer a massage service.

8) Have a manicure or pedicure – there are a few places around so ask your homestay for a recommendation or visit Lemon Tree for a treatment or two.

9) Go to the market and buy a rain poncho and plastic sandals – the local market will sell cheap coverups and shoes for if you are still wanting to get out and about by foot, bicycle, or motorbike. Expectt to get a poncho and sandals for less than $3.

10) Sing – there are so many karaoke places where you can rent the room by the hour to belt out a few ballads and ruin a couple of rock anthems. They vary in price according to the size of room, variety of songs and quality of the snacks.

11) Go for a swim – you’re already going to get wet so why not have a swim in one of the many pools in Phong Nha.

12) Cooking Class – why not learn how to cook some local food and then eat it! Your hostel or homestay can advise of one close by.

13) Sit in a bar or cafe and people watch – there are so many places you can sit and watch the world go by, and wonder at the people out in the rain wandering about.

Our first visit to this new place was brilliant! The sun was out but with the promise of cloudiness and rain ahead. Captain Caveman and I ate breakfast at Coffee Station and were joined by our two friends for a day out. Captain Caveman had rented a motorbike for the day from a local company, who has good bikes for 100,000vnd per 24hrs, so that we could drive over to see the newest accommodation in Phong Nha. The owner happened to have his birthday that day and we let him know we were coming to check out his new place!
Karst Villas is wonderful and probably the nicest place to stay in town! We had a tour around the rooms and villas, went on the roof and tested out the pool. The owner invited us all to come to stay to try out the place soon, however, Captain Caveman has little time off this month and none of us had matching time off. Being a lady of leisure I could go any time, of course.
The chef was away but the owner knocked up a lunch for us, gave us fruit and waters and fluffy towels at the pool – it wasn’t even open yet!! The girls posed as models by the pool for the day and we took so many photos, mostly of bikini-clad ladies.

It was so good a visit that we have been back again since and tested out the chef’s Vietnamese food which was delicious. My favourite is their deep swimming pool, which Captain Caveman loved to dive in to, and the comfy sun-loungers. Even on the second visit, which was cloudy, we still caught the sun.

Being a lady of leisure, as well as having Jamie and her family over for a visit, has meant I can join in on the fun stuff for a change instead of saying I can’t come because I’m working. It was only 5 days since the start of my tourist visa and 6 weeks until I would be with some of my UK family and friends in Turkey so I was looking forward to being a tourist for the day in the Phong Nha area.
Captain Caveman and I had a leisurely breakfast at Capture cafe before getting picked up by Jamie and her family for a day out to one of the famous places in the nearby Bong Lai Valley. I’d never been before and I was so excited, although a little bit nervous as I’m scared of some birds (I have a terrible fear of pigeons).
At the Duck Stop we got to see, feed and touch ducks and it was so good – it’s not just for the kids! It was busy and we waited with a cold drink and some fresh peanuts while chatting to the owner and the other staff and their kids. We were shown the best way to eat the peanuts, with the local pepper corns and salt before being given a conicle hat to wear.
Inside the duck enclosure we were guided by the owner who is so good with the ducks. Both Jamie and I love animals and so we were pleased to see they were treated very well. Each and everyone of us, including the 2 little kids, were allowed to feed the ducks and we were given so much opportunity for photos and videos. It was also my first time touching a real live duck and it felt so soft!
When we eventually felt like we had spent enough time with the ducks we went out of the enclosure to a hand and foot washing station, which is basically a hose pipe and some soap which does the job for hands and feet. I did wear my own porter sandals but if you don’t have them you can borrow them so your own shoes don’t get dirty. There are also some great quality t-shirts you can buy for a souvenir but the staff are not pushy so you can ask to try on at the back of the bar area.

After all the excitement of the Duck Stop we went to Moi Moi for lunch and had a selection of delicious food. We should’ve pre-ordered as it took a while to come and we were all hungry and tired. It was sunny and hot but not unbearable and we got to chill in hammocks while waiting. Moi Moi is a simple eatery ran by the family, where your food is very fresh – our chicken was still alive when we arrived!
The bamboo pork is my absolute favourite while Captain Caveman just loves the veggie cassava and peanut starter. All the food is prepared and cooked in the very basic kitchen over an open fire next to where the children and dogs play. The beer is cold and the staff warm and welcoming despite not speaking too much English. All in all a great day out and we didn’t even have time to visit all the other places in the Bong Lai Valley – maybe another time.
We cheated and did it by car with a local driver, however, fitter and more adventurous types can certainly make the journey by bicycle from Phong Nha.

On my last day at work with Jungle Boss (for this year, anyway) I was meant to work 2-5.30pm at the sales office and then have my leaving party at Sunflower’s straight after, but as luck would have it there was a shift change which meant I had to do my handover with the manager before 2pm. I worked from home after seeing Captain Caveman off to Son Doong and I knocked up a spreadsheet containing all my customer details before cycling down to the Sales Office to hand in my laptop and Sim card.
Later I stopped by the Jungle Boss Homestay to have a swim and confirm details for the leaving drinks which then got changed. Boss suggested we have a Jungle Boss pool party and everyone could join the party which was a great idea. Most of the staff live nearby or have kids (or both) so would be easier to drink locally. There was a new bartender with some cocktails and juices for him to try on us, as well as having some comfy poolside side seats and the refreshing swimming pool. It was a really great send off! I had such a great time and I think we really worked Tuan (the bartender) hard.
I went home in my wet swimwear but with my dress over the top and a little bit merry! I was looking forward to having some free time in Phong Nha, taking some Vietnamese lessons too, but I was also going to miss the Jungle Boss family!

For anyone reading this who is coming to Phong Nha, Vietnam and wants to do a tour or stay at Jungle Boss, here is their website.

Jungle Boss Adventure Tours, Homestay & Organic Farm

Our flight from Chiang Mai to Danang was at 8am on Tuesday 23rd July so we were up at 5.30am. Sometimes being a lady of leisure can be hard work!
At the airport there are no gluten free options so while a tired Captain Caveman scoffed a croissant and an espresso I made do with an earl grey tea.
The plane landed early and I took my visa approval letter to the visa processing man. I didn’t have a passport photo but he took my photo for $3. Captain Caveman had a tatty $10 note which he’d been trying to get rid of and I used it to pay for my visa and the photo. All went well and I got my visa in less than 15 minutes but the queues to get through passport control were lengthy and hardly moving. Once out we got a taxi to the hotel which Captain Caveman had booked and I was really impressed that he’d chosen an apartment, mainly because it stated it had a washing machine and we were out of clean undies. We were too early to check in but we were allowed to use the pool if we wanted – first I needed to eat!!
It wouldn’t have been my first choice for breakfast and I was a bit tetchy from being tired and hungry but burgers it was. I had a cheese burger, no bun or sauces just wrapped in lettuce and with loads of raw onion. Captain Caveman had a massive burger with everything on which I’m sure he swallowed whole. Burger Brothers in Danang doesn’t look great but their burgers are fantastic!! I ate mine too fast to remember to take a photo and I could easily have had another one.
Back at Moon Hotel and Apartments we headed up to the rooftop pool, which we had to ourselves. When we did check in I was amazed how nice the apartment was however Captain Caveman noticed right away that it did not meet his expectations and had to go to reception to complain – there was no washing machine, no safe, no matching robes, no (wine) glasses and no toaster!!! They agreed to bring us a washing machine that afternoon but in the end the manager, realised that would be a nightmare, offered to let us have a free laundry service. We were happy with that and put in all of our clothes including the swimmers.
At 4pm I went to L Spa for a very thorough waxing experience (I’ve had gynecologists be further away during a procedure)!! I also got a shoulder and foot massage which was brilliant. If you’re in Danang and need any of these treatments they are definitely great value and extremely professional.
I called in at a minimart on the way back and bought (screwtop) wine, paper cups, cheese, fruit and cashews which we had some of before going out for dinner. We tried to go to a BBQ place that had been recommended but it was closed so we went to Fat Fish instead. We shared a salad and I had ribs for main with more wine!

Breakfast at the Moon Hotel and Apartments on Wednesday 24th July was great! I was lucky to have lots of choice and ate dragon fruit, pineapple, bun cay (vegetarian soup), spring rolls and steamed rice with lotus seeds. We had a lazy morning, ate cheese cashews and mangosteen then, when I eventually managed to get Captain Caveman off his phone, we went to Bread & Salt for lunch on it’s opening day. My chicken salad was amazing and I only drank water (trying to cut down on the booze a little).
In the afternoon Captain Caveman needed the bank and so we walked to Dirty Fingers, a sports bar, where I ended up having 3 small wines! The owner also talked us into having a T-Bone steak each with chips and salad. It worked out well for me as that night we were off to a function where I wouldn’t be able to eat anything. We called in to Seven Bridges for a gluten free beer before heading to meet a friend.
Hops & Crust had their opening party from 7pm and they had free pizza being handed round. I just had the gluten free beer although I really wanted the pizza which looked amazing. Back at Moon we watched a film on TV (a rarity as we don’t have a TV at home) before bed.

Captain Caveman should’ve been in Hang Son Doong on Thursday 25th July but instead he got to spend all day with me – of course he had no idea how lucky he was!
He’d been up in the night with a bad stomach and just as I’d started to feel better he was not well. He didn’t make it to breakfast and instead stayed in bed, on his phone, until just before noon.
Unfortunately we had to check out at 12:00 and were getting a car back to Phong Nha which is just over 300km away (about 6 hours).
We went for food at Mini Breakfast, just round the corner from Moon Hotel and Apartments, as Captain Caveman was feeling hungry and seemed to be recovering well. I had the best second breakfast I’ve had in a long time – bacon, potatoes, onion and melted Camembert!
Before our pick up we squeezed in another dip in the pool and a lounge about. Captain Caveman was convinced we would arrive home by 8pm while I was less optimistic. We’d been driving for less than an hour when the driver pulled over after a toll and waited for another car and driver. He didn’t speak English so we weren’t sure why but then we followed that car a few minutes to Lang Co, where both cars stopped for food.
We didn’t eat or drink but both driver’s had some sort of noodle soup and quails eggs with an energy drink. I took the opportunity to have a pee and was glad I had as we then drove non-stop to Phong Nha in silence for the majority of the way, arriving back after 9.30pm!

We were off on a bit of a jolly for Captain Caveman’s birthday and my visa run. Having finished working for the year I now needed a tourist visa for the rest of my stay in Vietnam. On Friday 19th July we were up very early to get our lift from Phong Nha to Dong Hoi for the 08:04 SE1 train to Danang. Captain Caveman had been unable to get us beds in the same berth so he had booked separate ones, both a top bunk in a 4 berth. I’d downloaded the rest of The Affair (on Netflix) to watch on the train too and had my new ear phones to be put to the test. When we arrived at Dong Hoi station the train was delayed by 40 minutes so we went to a cafe for a hot drink – I chose ginger tea because I had a terrible sore throat as well as still having aching limbs from our recent caving trip.
We boarded the train and went to our sleepers. Mine already had 2 adults and 4 kids in it and they proceeded to be loud, hyperactive and generally very annoying. I tried to watch Netflix with my earphones in but I kept getting messages to say my hearing could be damaged for having the volume on so high – I couldn’t hear a word! I told the kids off a few times but they ignored me and got worse. When we got to Hue the train steward asked me if I would like to join Captain Caveman in his sleeper so I agreed. When I opened their door there were also 4 other people but they were quiet and happy, sat on the bottom bunks and so I could watch The Affair (at a much lower volume).

Our train got in late and we got a taxi to our hostel, Roma Casa, so we could drop bags off before going for breakfast or lunch.
We got neither and instead went to the bar for lemon juice, some peanuts and a passion fruit margarita. Finally we went out to eat and we went to an amazing place called Le Comptoire – a fancy french restaurant.
I had a duck and lentil salad for starter, roast chicken and veg for main and then shared a cheese board with Captain Caveman for afters. We had a lovely bottle of wine and I was happy to have eaten at last.
Back at the hostel I found the bed very comfy and the toilet and shower block were spotlessly clean and nearby. They had a swimming pool made out of a shipping container which we didn’t get to go in this time. We set the alarm as the next day we were off to Thailand.

Our flight from Danang to Chiang Mai wasn’t until 10:30am on Saturday 20th July which meant we had time for breakfast. I had pork fried rice and it was a large portion. We were excited to be off to Chiang Mai, both of us for the second time but the first time together.
We arrived at our hotel, I Lanna House, around 1pm and were able to check in early. Captain Caveman had chosen the accommodation and it was lovely. For lunch we went to SP Chicken which is one of the tastiest places I’ve ever had a whole chicken. We shared the chicken, some sticky rice, morning glory and of course a couple of cold beers. I found out that many of the Thai beers are made with rice and so I was able to drink them without any problem. In the afternoon we lounged by the pool and had a refreshing dip. I had started with a cold and my sore throat was worse so I had a little nap before we went out for the evening. We visited Mixology, a firm favourite of mine from my last trip and a first for Captain Caveman. Unfortunately it seemed to be a little less sparkling than last time so we had just 2 cocktails each but ate elsewhere.

Amigos was a tiny cafe where Captain Caveman enjoyed the nachos and I had a corn taco with chicken. Directly above the Mexican place was Cru, a delightful wine bar where it would be rude not to have a cheese board. It rounded the night off well and once back at the hotel I slept the best I had in a while.

Sunday 21st July was an interesting day and I got to meet a famous person.
We started with breakfast at the hotel but the gluten free choices were limited to pineapple, lettuce, carrot, cabbage and yoghurt – definitely different but healthy. In the afternoon we went in search of snacks and sore throat sweets and found an abundance of Hall’s in all flavours at the Seven-Eleven shop. I got loads and felt a bit better even after one sweet.
In the evening we went to meet Sid, his wife and dog at Gekko restaurant just as it started to rain. Sid Perou is a famous caver and film maker who’s also written books and is writing one now – he’s 82, from England but living in Chiang Mai. He and his wife were so lovely and it was nice to meet them at last.
For dinner I had a few beers and a plate of ribs while Captain Caveman had a masaman curry.

Our short trip to Chiang Mai was already coming to an end and Monday 22nd July was our last day at I Lanna House. I was still waiting for my visa approval letter so I could re-enter Vietnam the next day and was assured I’d get it by 6pm. The plan was to have a few days in Danang before going back to Phong Nha, assuming I got back in the country ok.
When we booked the trip to Thailand Captain Caveman had needed to be back in Phong Nha to do his Son Doong briefing on the 24th but we found out later that the tour was cancelled which meant he could be away for longer. At 5.55pm my visa approval letter was emailed to me and I got the hotel to print it me out. For dinner we went to Dash, a popular Thai place where I had a masaman curry and beer. My cold was still around but my sore throat was starting to go and I was hoping to be feeling better for our early flight the next day.

It’s been over 2 years since I used my JOLOYOLO blog however I’m now in a position to start it again. I can quickly catch you up with what I’ve been up to before I write more of my experiences as a lady of leisure.

2018 started in Cambodia with friends and Captain Caveman before returning to Phong Nha, Vietnam, to start a full time job with Jungle Boss for 3 months. I spent almost 4 months during the summer back in the UK, living with my parents and working in a local bar. In September I went to Dalyan in Turkey for 3 months where I caught up with family and friends before flying to Australia for a first time visit.

In 2019 I have already worked full time for 6 months at Jungle Boss. I celebrated Tet holiday and recorded a podcast in February, had friends visit Phong Nha in April, then went on a trip to Tuy Hoa, Quy Nhon and Tam Hai island during May. Last month I had my second visit to Chiang Mai and am now being a lady of leisure in Phong Nha again.

Please feel free to read my old blog posts on here and listen to my podcast interview with the fantastic Chapin Kreuter: https://open.spotify.com/episode/3z8zX2AKdcNZs2myxIjnwI?si=GREw49ETQiuVOtaf_qvYKQ