Dalyan to Cappadocia – day 1

Dalyan to Cappadocia – day 1

Our flight to Kayseri in Cappadocia was via Istanbul where I had the flight booked straight through but my Aussie friends had to recheck in. I had the obligatory wine at the airport bar then we had our short flight and a bus to our cave hotel. The place the Aussies’ had booked was about an hour away by minibus (pre-booked) in Göreme and was called Roc Cave Hotel, which was so lovely. All three of us shared a room to keep costs down and so that we could stay in a nice place for all four nights of the trip. It was dark when we arrived and so we had no idea what the views would look like until the next morning.

While Captain Caveman was back in Saigon with his Oxalis colleagues I was being woken up by a strange sound in Cappadocia. It was 7am on Sunday 13th October and the roar of flames beneath hot air balloons was loud. We stepped outside of our cave room to take a look and the views were spectacular. We had breakfast and decided we would have a day of exploring by ourselves and so we were given a direction to walk and a map by the hotel receptionist and balloon pilot. Greg also asked if he could book to do the balloon trip but Amanda and I didn’t want to.

We had an amazing first day of clambering about in abandoned cave houses and churches in the red hot sun and it was very impressive. By the time the sun set we had booked a balloon ride for Greg, found some cool places, took over 200 photos and I’d tried bubble tea for the first time.
That evening we celebrated with wine for me and gin and tonic for them. A great first day in Cappadocia despite being covered in dust and spikey plants. I also forgot to take sensible footwear and had been forced to wear my nice sandals which were getting ruined.

Dalyan – 24hrs sailing around the 12 islands.

Dalyan – 24hrs sailing around the 12 islands.

Finally my parents’ surprise anniversary trip was here and we were picked up at 9am from Dalyan to go to Göcek. (It was also no longer a surprise). I’d booked for us to have a private boat trip on Günay 1 months ago and there was just the 5 of us now which meant the boat was only half occupied! It was an anniversary, birthday and Christmas present all rolled in to one and our Aussie friends were so excited to be going again. We had all been on Günay 1 before but had never done the extended trip and, given that the owners were going to be stopping tours at the end of this season, we were very lucky to be going.
We had tea/coffe served as we set sail and one of the staff showed great skills when he rode a wave with a tray of teas in his hands – we were impressed already. There were many swimming spots during the day as well as breakfast, lunch and dinner on board – the Aussies even spotted a do-up property in a little bay that they swam ashore to investigate! The meals were massive and of outstanding quality including some of the best homemade produce I’ve ever had. Ramazan really looked after us and we all had soft drinks, saving ourselves for the evening, knowing we were sleeping on the boat.

By 5pm we had a gin and tonic and then waited in a secluded spot to watch the sunset. By dinner time we were so full but I managed to eat the BBQ fish (I don’t eat fish usually) which was actually really good. Just being on the boat was so relaxing – it was such a treat and we all loved it, the photos probably don’t do it justice either. I thought I might be claustrophobic in my cabin but it turned out to be cozy and very comfortable. By the time I retired for the evening I had drank a bottle of red wine and fell asleep quickly.
Waking up on a boat on Saturday 12th October was fantastic and I wasn’t expecting another breakfast, this meant we had a bit more time on the glorious Günay 1 until the next group of customers arrived. It was one of the best experiences I’d had in Dalyan and loved every minute – we were so lucky!
Back on land and in Dalyan we said bye to my parents – we had less than 2 hours before we left for the airport.

Dalyan – a midweek chill out

Dalyan – a midweek chill out

While my Aussie friends took themselves off to Rhodes for a couple of days on Wednesday 9th October, I spent time just chilling out in Dalyan – having a quiet couple of days before our next adventure. We got some great help from someone on a Facebook group who had recently been to Rhodes and we also did a bit of research. They got a taxi to Fethiye with Sonuç from Dalyan Airport Transfers, on Wednesday 9th October, then the ferry across so they could visit the old town and stay in a swish place for one night. I took myself for a walk across to the other side of town and went to Melek Anne for breakfast – the views were fantastic but the breakfast not quite as good as I had envisaged from recommendations. There were also a load of ‘gobby’ holidaymakers in the next hotel who were smoking and having Skype calls back home with their family so it spoiled it for me somewhat. In the evening I had arranged to go to Yener’s Place with my parents so I could have gluten free pizza and then meet friends for drinks in Lukka bar. In the afternoon I happened to be sat on the balcony at home when a passing friend spotted me and called in for a G&T. We had to collect my gluten free bread from Bakery No10 so wandered over and found it wasn’t quite ready – that’s where it started to get messy! We ended up drinking wine in the garden at Jiks, and I even started eating my freshly cooked bread straight out of the bag as I couldn’t wait and it smelled so good. I had to hurry to drop my bread off at home and meet ma and pa at Soul Kitchen for our usual pre-dinner drinks. The pizza at Yener’s Place was good but I didn’t eat much of it and took the rest home. I ended up a bit tipsy and when I woke up on Thursday 10th October I felt rough. For breakfast I had the rest of the gluten free pizza, earl grey tea and some gluten free carrot and walnut cake from Bakery No10. At lunch I met up with friends and neighbours at Lukka bar but only drank orange juice and soda water as I was still feeling a bit fragile. I had some Turkish delight as an afternoon snack and waited for the Aussies to return. They were at least an hour later than expected on the ferry and they had requested döner kebabs for food that night, which was harder to find than you’d think – ovens were broken, some places only had frozen meat. We tried 3 places and finally got some at Dalyan cafe, opposite Mustang Bar, where the portions were big and we really enjoyed our food. On the way home the Aussies bought takeaway rice pudding, from Aksoy Bakery, to have back home.
We packed our overnight stuff in to rucksacks for the next day as we were off on a trip we had been looking forward to for months!

Dalyan – the Rock Tombs of Kaunos

Dalyan – the Rock Tombs of Kaunos

On Tuesday 8th October the weather wasn’t good so we waited for the rain to stop before heading to Soul Kitchen for a Turkish breakfast and 2 portions of potato skins with cheese and beans between the 3 of us – it was massive!
Because the weather looked bad we decided the 3 of us would go to BC Spa for a hamam scrub down and a massage however they were fully booked until 5pm. We booked in and went back to plan A which was to visit the ancient rock tombs. Since last year when the Aussies and Captain Caveman had been unable to gain access to the tombs, Amanda had been obsessed with getting in this visit. I had asked in a Facebook group if anyone knew how and, although it wasn’t recommended/allowed, I had received some information. We came back and popped adequate footwear on and headed off to get a rowing boat over the river. After a short walk we saw the signs and we got to the first set of tombs. My aim was to simply show the more adventurous couple how to get there but not go in, however, a big thunderstorm came meaning it was better to shelter. Stupidly, I had not dressed for the occasion and had only shorts and t-shirt on but managed to get to most of the tombs the others did – 11 days it took for my tomb kisses (scars) to fade.

We did well and Amanda was excited when a wild donkey led us to a bigger tomb which we could access and walk around in. It felt amazing being up so high and seeing the views of Dalyan was great, despite my camera not doing them justice really.

On the way back we met a dog with a spikey plant in her paw and helped her by removing it, she then introduced us to her family to say thanks.
Luckily we didn’t get arrested or injured (more luck than judgement) but it wasn’t a walk in the park and we were glad of a sit down and a pomegranate juice at the lovely Meriç cafe while waiting for the boat to go back. Captain Caveman would have loved it, I’m sure, but he was still in Indonesia, exploring caves. By the time we got back to BC Spa we were wet, dirty, smelly and running late. Greg and I had the full scrub down wash on the marble slab before our massages and Amanda went for a sports massage.
The manager and therapists were great, friendly, very professional and we really enjoyed the relaxation before rushing back to get ready for dinner.

In the evening we met my parents and ate at Ramazan Han’s where I had a delicious aubergine starter which was a big enough portion for a few of us to share. The steaks are my favourite at Ramazan’s and so I had the one covered in onions (again) and it was excellent.

Some Photos by Greg & Amanda Le Couteur (with permission)

Dalyan – day trip to Akyaka, Akbük and the Akmak river.

Dalyan – day trip to Akyaka, Akbük and the Akmak river.

The Road to Paradise tour with Volkan’s Adventures on Monday 7th October was a great day out. My uncle was due to arrive on this day but because of the collapse of Thomas Cook he wasn’t able to come and so my parents joined me and my two Australian visitors on this day trip. On the way we got to see some tombs which were not as impressive as the ones in Dalyan but made it easy for anyone with walking difficulties to at least see them up close.

We visited Akyaka for an amazing breakfast overlooking the Azmak river – there was so much to eat, even for a non-glutener like me (the melted cheese was my favourite).

After eating we had a short journey to the town centre and to where we had a boat ride on the Azmak river which was absolutely stunning. It wasn’t my first visit here but it was still as beautiful and the boat trip is a nice addition to the day after such a big breakfast. As a treat there was also complimentary ice creams eaten while by the river.

Next we were driven to the village and beach of Azbuk where we had lots of time to swim in the sea and take photos. I was also surprised to find that there was a lunch included at the beach cafe. I didn’t have anything to eat, partly because I was still full and partly because I didn’t want any of the options which included eggs and bread. Everyone else ate and the portions were huge so I’m glad I saved myself for dinner.

In the evening we drove a short distance to another restaurant and had a meal next to the water with a glass of wine before heading back to Dalyan about 9pm. We had a great day out and our guide, Murat, had turned out to be great fun with a wicked sense of humour!!
Ma and Pa went for a drink in Jiks when we got back to Dalyan while we headed to Lukka bar for some pre-ordered rice pudding for my friends. Süt Laç proved to be popular with my guests but I was still too full and don’t like the taste of it. It was turning cold so my parents came to join us for a drink at Lukka before we all went home. The next day would be an interesting one, which my parents decided not to join in on as they didn’t want to get arrested or hurt themselves.

Dalyan – the first weekend in October

On Friday 4th October I started the weekend with a breakfast of champions – I had 2 slices of gluten free toast with homemade bolognese and it tasted really good. I caught up on learning some Turkish online and wrote a blog post as well as eating a healthy lunch of chicken with veg and a slice of cheddar.
In the evening I had booked in at Lukka bar for fish and chip Friday where they were going to do me gluten free batter. Our Aussie friends were already in Istanbul and would be arriving here in Dalyan in a couple of days and so I was helping them to organise an itinerary while they were here, including booking an overnight trip to Rhodes. Ma and Pa live near to a fish and chip shop back home so they didn’t fancy joining me, whereas the last time I had fish and chips was in Tasmania, December 2018 and wasn’t as good as the UK one I’d had in Sheffield a few months before that.
When I arrived at Lukka bar I was told by the chef that they hadn’t been able to get the cod from Marmaris and so the fish and chips were not available this week. Instead, I joined my parents at one of their old favourites, Çağrı, where I ate chicken shish. Afterwards we had a nightcap in Jiks bar before heading home to bed – Saturday was going to be a busy one!

On Saturday 5th October it rained! By 7am a storm was starting – the sky turned grey, the clouds hid the limestone mountains and I managed to work out where some leaks needed fixing. I did some organising ready for our Aussie friends arriving the next day, including a full itinerary for their 7 day stay in Dalyan.
I had bolognese with pancakes for brunch and even made enough gluten free pancake mixture for the next day which I poured in to a jar to store in the fridge. Dad had gone to watch the rugby but had turned up at the wrong time after me and mom apparently told him the wrong time when we googled the fixtures the night before. Mom and I went shopping as I needed a raincoat and some suitable footwear for my forthcoming trip to Cappadocia in a week’s time. I bought a fake North Face waterproof and warm raincoat, an outfit and ordered some new leather shoes! Mom bought a lovely towel/blanket and I got a present for our friend who’s birthday we were all invited to that night. We stopped by Amy’s bar for a couple of ciders and bumped in to dad who was watching football. Back at home I arranged to go to my parents place for a pre dinner drink at theirs but unfortunately my mom had let me know that dad, who had gone to the barbers, had still not come home. When I went round about 7:30pm he was home and he was in a tangle because he’d had a bit of a pub crawl before and after the barbers and now mom had the face on because we were all due at Maxine’s birthday party for dinner and drinks at Dalyance.
Dad was in trouble but we still went and it was a good night but after the meal mom made dad go home and, as they headed off, I went to town where it got a bit messy – two of the fellas ended up pole dancing in Rodrigo’s bar. On the way home I called in to Lukka for another wine with friends and made friends with a couple of other customers, drinking until the early hours! Nobody would have guessed I had the Aussie friends arriving soon as I stumbled home.

The sun was back again on Sunday 6th October and I was up at 7am having pancakes with rose jam for breakfast.
That evening our Aussie friends and I had gin and tonic on the balcony before my parents came round to meet ready for our first trip on the itinerary.
We had a private boat trip booked with Captain Turgay to take us to Köyceğiz lake and then the Sultaniye mudbaths with a BBQ buffet dinner. It was a great start to the Aussie’s Dalyan holiday and a lovely ending to the week. The mud bath was so good and we were 3 of just 6 in there, while my mom had her feet nibbled by fish and my dad sat with a beer in the bar area. The hot pool was busier but interesting to mingle with the locals and simply relax. I’d not been in the dome-like building before and there were just 3 of us and the ‘lifeguard’ in there, making echoing sounds and loving the feeling of complete relaxation.

Dalyan – Here a month already

The last day of the month, Monday 30th September, started with a trip to the bank to pick up my new bank card which had arrived. I also tried to change my phone number so that I could use the online app but couldn’t and even the woman working there couldn’t sort it out. I bumped in to several members of the number 2 club and I had a couple of ciders with them in Jiks after a quick stop off at the supermarket.
In the evening it was my turn to pick where we ate so I chose off my list for one we hadn’t been before. We went for a cocktail at Dalyano first and I told ma and pa my choice was either Mai or Natural Paradise. Dad said he didn’t want to go to Mai because it wasn’t very busy and so we carried on to my second choice. When we got there Dad didn’t like the look of it and so we ended up going back to Firat’s, the place I got accidentally glutened.
He was happier there and I stuck to having a chicken shish with rice and salad and we shared a bottle of wine. After dinner we had a nightcap at Bistro Blue and I bought a new top from the clothes shop next door, where they had a sale on.

Tuesday 1st of October was my first visit to Itsuzu beach this year. I arranged to meet my parents at the bus station and we planned to take an early bus, walk along the beach and get a boat back. I’d ordered some gluten free bread to collect from Bakery No10 when I got back, too. The bus fare for one way was cheap and only takes about 15 minutes to get there however we hadn’t planned for it being the start of the new ‘winter’ timetable. We got to the beach and had a Turkish tea each then strolled along the water’s edge to the other end of the beach. We had an ice-cream and even though I normally avoid them, I had a Magnum. Mom was sure they didn’t have gluten in but it turned out the Turkish ones probably do. Ma and pa had pancakes and we eventually got a boat back at 1pm. By the time we got to Dalyan and picked up my loaf I was starving so we headed to Jiks for a drink and some lunch. I had a lovely prawn salad, a cherry juice and a cider followed by a gluten free savoury muffin back at home. Bakery No10 had excelled again as the ‘salty muffin’ was fantastic.
In the evening I stayed in and just had gluten free bread because I’d been glutened by the Magnum and felt rubbish.

I’d already planned for October to be a month for catching up with friends and so Wednesday 2nd October was one of those days. After a breakfast of gluten free toast and a few little jobs here and there I had arranged to meet a friend for lunch.
We met at Yummy’s and it looked like a lot of other people had the same idea as it was very busy. I had a lovely halloumi and roasted veg salad which was massive (I took half of it home) while my mate enjoyed a bit of quiche. We had a good catch up and spoke about me applying for residency here in Turkey so that I can spend more time here in the future.
In the evening it was back to Dad’s turn to choose where we went for dinner and he decided we would revisit the choice of the previous evening, Mai steak house, where we had avoided in favour of Firat’s. We all had steak and a bottle of wine and it turned out to be a good choice as the steak was excellent. It came served with veg which had sprouts in and even they were nice.
On the way home I bumped in to a couple of friends so I had a nightcap with them at Lukka bar and discovered that one of them does a good Elton John impression. They suggested more drinks but I decided I’d better not as I was on an early start with ma and pa the next day.

At 07:44am on Thursday 3rd October there was an earthquake in the area and I experienced the ‘earth move’ while in bed. It felt like I was on a water bed and only lasted a few seconds but the whole place moved and it felt very odd. That morning we decided to get the bus towards the beach and get off at Ekin restaurant for a Turkish breakfast. The place is lovely and beside a big lake where they serve fresh food in the gardens. It was really good and although we could have tried to work out what time the bus went back we got a taxi for only 40 lira.
For lunch I had the left over halloumi salad (from Yummy’s) with gluten free chocolate cake from Bakery No10, before popping out for some shopping. I bought a nice blanket/towel as a table cloth to cover the bright green balcony table and I decided to cook a chicken dinner and some bolognese so that I would have spare for the next day or so. A night in was had and I finished watching Unbelievable on Netflix before starting on the latest series of Designated Survivor.

Dalyan – my fourth weekend

On Friday 27th September it was a fairly ‘normal’ day. I ate beans on gluten free toast for brunch and in the evening I arranged to meet Ma and Pa at the Gin Bar for a pre-dinner drink. A couple of friends popped in to mine and we had a cheeky drink – a preloader which meant I was late to meet my parents. After a quick drink, we only had a short walk to Adilan’s for dinner, where I was going for the second time and it was just as good. We had been in Dalyan 3 weeks already and time was going by so quickly with lots of lovely food and outings to various different places. I had created a list from people’s posts on certain Facebook groups in Dalyan for all the restaurants to try – old and new, regular ones and ones I’d never tried. Given there are probably over 150 establishments it was going to keep us going until at least the end of the season. Some places I was deliberately saving for winter, knowing there would be less choice and that I would be here for quite a few more weeks yet.

Saturday 28th September was a bit mixed; I had water, tea and cheese on gluten free toast for brunch, followed by some sunflower seeds. I was meant to be having someone come to look at buying our double bed so I had cleaned up and stripped the beds, done all the washing and waited. They didn’t arrive and I saw later in the week that they had purchased a bed elsewhere but without letting me know. I ordered a gluten free pizza, from Yener’s Place, to take to dog sitting where one of the dogs quickly sussed out what was in my bag. The pizza (chicken, mushroom and pineapple) was pretty good and I checked the last time I had a gluten free pizza takeaway was 13.5 months ago. Pizza is one of the things I miss most and the gluten free versions just aren’t as nice.
I was home before midnight having fell asleep on the sofa while watching Unbelievable on Netflix and cuddling two puppies.

On Sunday 29th September I had my usual gluten free toast for breakfast and did a few chores before heading off to watch the Russian Grand Prix. My parents weren’t bothered about watching the race this time so I had arranged to watch it at Lukka bar while eating a gluten free beef dinner. I also had gluten free apple crumble with ice-cream and it was so good. A couple of friends joined me later on and so I didn’t see all of the race and I ended up drinking the equivalent of a bottle of wine that day. For dinner I met my parents and had a prawn dish at Bistro Blue, which made a nice change. After a day time session and too much food I was ready for bed and had an early night, watching more Unbelievable on Netflix.

Dalyan – a busy third week

On Monday 23rd September I was awake before 5am and the first thing I read was the news that Thomas Cook had not been able to be saved. It would be a massive knock for a lot of people who’s flights and holidays would be cancelled. It also meant that a lot of people were getting on the internet to rebook before the demand increased and the prices became too high. My friends arriving in October were unaffected but my uncle, who was due to be visiting my parents, wasn’t so lucky.
I just had water for breakfast but had my daily gluten free toast for lunch with a cup of earl grey tea. I decided that the balcony furniture needed replacing as I was missing being able to sit outside and read, write these blogs or have my meals and drinks. I tried rearranging what we did have but it wasn’t good enough and I decided to have a look for new ones tomorrow, as I was off to Fethiye with ma and pa. In the evening we decided to meet for a drink at Amy’s bar and while we were there we booked a day trip with Yusuf, on his boat, for Thursday. We had decided to pay a second visit to Ramazan’s for steak but as we walked towards it there was a power cut. Dad got a face on and we all started heading home but noticed the only place with a light on was Jiks (they have a generator) so we went there. I had meatballs and red wine and it was very good but we had an early night as we needed to be ready for the bus the next day.

I met my parents at the bus stop at 09:30am on Tuesday 24th September armed with 3 bottles of cold water. The bus was full (29 people) and set off at 09:45am to Fethiye, a nearby town with a port. We’d all been before but it had been a while so we were looking forward to having a change of scenery as well as maybe a bit of shopping. I needed to cost up some balcony furniture, as well as new beds and a bigger fridge. When we arrived we had a stroll to the harbour where there were some impressive looking boats, bumped in to 2 of my Dalyan friends (you can’t go anywhere, can you?), we had a hot drink at a local style cafe which was 5 lira for all 3 of us. We had a walk beside the water and settled for a nice looking place for an alcoholic beverage and lunch. I was happy with my cider and chicken stir fry but Dad was less impressed by his tuna salad (to be honest I didn’t even know he liked tuna). Mom was rather ecstatic over her seafood pasta and said it was one of the best she’d had – they did have to put up with draught Tuborg lager, though, as they didn’t have Efes Malt. After lunch we had a treat from the ice-cream stall, where I had cherry sorbet in a pot while ma and pa had cones of ice-cream.
We walked back and took a detour to the Duck Pond where our tour guide was busy having a few ‘liveners’ and we had a drink while watching the scenes around. My parents pointed out a few places they had frequented years ago, including a naked afternoon in the Hamam, as well as some bars. On the way back to the bus I noticed a bed shop and quickly went in to get some info and see how the ottoman style ones opened. I dashed out with a card and caught up, making it in time for the bus back.
On the way back we all sat in the same seats and I had the unfortunate situation of having the drunk tour guide sat next to me while leaning across to chat up the single Dutch lady next to me with ‘blue eyes and big tits’, as he put it. Needless to say, with that chat-up line, he got nowhere (she had green eyes) and when he asked me my marital status I said I married twice but both husband’s were now dead from talking too much. It only shut him up temporarily and the poor woman had to get off in town so that he didn’t find out where she was staying. We decided to stay in that night and I had gluten free toast and leftover aubergine yogurt for dinner.

I had forgotten how good beans on toast is!! On Wednesday 25th September I had it for my breakfast and thoroughly enjoyed it. Then, because I had not successfully found replacement balcony furniture, I went to a shop in Dalyan to have a look at their small selection. I found some I liked but went home to measure the balconies to make sure what I ordered would fit. The owner, Doğan Cihan, gave me his number and said I could WhatsApp him an order which he could bring over straight away. Back home I realised I had nothing for lunch except for Bakery No10 chocolate cake, which was so good! I ordered tables only and then decided to take the old one apart to store away. By the time the delivery arrived less than 20 minutes later I had broken a leg of the old table and so I asked the man to help me dispose of it, which he did! I even got free delivery and a discount but needed to find some table cloths so the sun didn’t ruin the new tables.
In the evening we went to Ramazan’s where I had the onion steak which was amazing – definitely the best steaks in town. We shared a bottle of red too and then had a cheeky drink at Bistro Blue before heading home. We had a busy day coming up on Thursday!!

Yusuf at Amy’s bar had booked us on his boat trip on Thursday 26th September and so I met my parents at Jazz bar at 10am. We already had our swimmers on (underneath our clothes) and had took a bag with a towel each and some suncream. We were lucky as we only had 4 more people onboard and so with just 7 guests it looked to be a nice peaceful and relaxing day. We sailed out on to the sea while drinking a cup of strong tea and I forgot to take a sea-sickness tablet. We had the chance to try a spot of fishing, swim in beautiful bays and enjoy the odd beverage.
Lunch was a buffet and BBQ which was really good – I took my own gluten free bread but didn’t have it because I was so full of chicken, meatballs, salad, broccoli, carrot yogurt dip, spinach yogurt dip and rice! After lunch we had more chilling, sunbathing on the top deck of the boat then swimming in Candır lake where there are thermal springs under the water.
While we were there my friends were on another boat in the lake so I got off and we swam to meet each other for a chat (as you do). When I got back on the boat there was a glass of wine and a fruit plate waiting for me. The trip lasted until after 5pm and was a really good price for the day out.
We decided to stay in that night and off we went to get a shower and settle in for the night. Once I’d got showered though, I messaged my parents to see how they were getting on and after a few messages back and forth we decided to go out for dinner. We tried another new place off my list, Meet Meat and it was a bit ‘different’! It’s one of those places where there is no menu but you order meat at a counter and they weigh it and tell you the price. Great idea but the staff have limited English so you don’t really know what is happening and we weren’t sure what we would get with our meat. The starter was bread (not gluten free) with mushrooms in a mystery sauce which none of us tried. Me and mom shared a big rib eye steak, cut in half and was about the right size. Dad had a fillet steak which looked great, we got side dishes of salad and chips – I just had salad and my steak. We shared a bottle of red wine which we took a gamble on one we had never heard of but was nice and only 75 lira (wine is expensive in Turkey). When the bill came we were all pleasantly surprised as it wasn’t expensive for the amount of meat we had. We got a complimentary fruit plate to share afterwards and when one of the flower men came round, Dad bought three.
On the way home we had a nightcap at Bistro Blue before heading home after a hectic day!

Dalyan – my second weekend

I had a pedicure booked in first thing on Saturday, 14th September, at Mimi’s and I was looking forward to getting my feet sorted as I’d not had a pedicure for ages – it was good value for money and took an hour. I had a lovely apple tea and got to watch the world go by and the dog sleep.
After that, I went to see what gluten free stuff they had at No10 Bakery, nearby. I had a Turkish tea and a chocolate orange brownie which was incredible – I had to check it was definitely gluten free as you couldn’t have guessed. I also ordered a gluten free loaf and some cake for 3 of us, I took the carrot, orange and almond cake but had to go back later for the bread. I had a swim and a lounge about at my parents’ place, Dad made us a healthy lunch and on my way home I collected the loaf. I wish I’d known about No10 Bakery before as the bread was fantastic and I had 2 slices with butter on straight away. The baker there is unbelievably talented and I will be going there lots more.
That evening I had decided to help out some friends by looking after their 4 dogs while they went to a party. I’d met their biggest dog before and I think he remembered me with a jump up and a lick of my ear. I’d not met the rescue dog or the new puppies before and they were all very giddy and cute. Once their owners had left they spent time messing about by the pool. One went in a little bit and I had to dry all of them because one got a dry then the rest wanted one. Eventually the dogs calmed down enough for me to watch a bit of Poirot on TV while drinking wine and nibbling cheese with 3 of the 4 dogs being fast asleep when their owners returned.

Sunday 15th September was spent, once again, chilling with the family. I had gluten free toast (the Bakery No10 version) with butter for breakfast before heading out for lunch with ma and pa. They had been cleaning and had worked up a thirst so we had a couple of cheeky beers (cider for me) at Dalyan Lounge, where we also had crisps and Turkish delight as nibbles. Instead of Sunday dinner this week we opted for a local Turkish place, Firat’s, in a square full of eateries. Dad had an omelette, Mom a tuna and onion pide and I tried to go healthy with stuffed peppers. We shared a nice bottle of white wine and all was well until I got a really bad stomach, as if I’d eaten gluten. It was only when I googled a Turkish recipe for stuffed peppers that I realised that my lunch had wheat in – it wasn’t rice inside the peppers, but bulgur wheat! It was my own fault for not checking and they were very tasty. Despite being in pain and feeling terrible I still managed dinner out and we went to Yener’s Place where they are extremely used to gluten free customers. I had an amazing chicken and aubergine dish washed down with 2 glasses of wine. It rounded off the week nicely and we even got to meet Yener’s knitted dolls, given him by a customer!


Dalyan – a relaxing second week

On Monday 16th September I was still suffering with the effects of accidental gluten, I measured myself and found that in a couple of days my waist had increased by 5cm. I didn’t have breakfast and for lunch I had only gluten free bread with cheese spread.
In the evening my parents and I went for a lovely meal by the river, at Yakamoz, where I opted for a gluten free dinner of steak, salad and chips with a couple of glasses of red wine. (Gluten free-ers, the rice here is without pasta in).
On the walk back home we decided to call in to Bistro Blue as we’d not been back since we had made our own dancefloor there with the girls! I had another couple of red wines and we kept it tame this time.

It was time to try something out for the first time this year, on Tuesday 17th September. I was going to cook a meal – living in Vietnam in a shared house with a dirty, ill-equipped kitchen means we never cook at home. I invited my parents over and decided we would have chicken, veg and jacket potatoes. I do miss a jacket potato especially the proper oven cooked ones with crispy skins.
During the day I was awake early as I had a message from Captain Caveman to let me know I could book tickets for next year’s Hanoi Grand Prix but when I tried they have to be delivered by DHL and I didn’t want them delivering to the UK for £26 or to Vietnam for £31!! For the rest of the day we lounged by my parents’ pool and then my parents came over to mine, bringing white wine. I was on the red wine and the food turned out lovely. (I forgot to take a photo of it).

The gluten free bread from No10 Bakery was proving to be a winner!!! On Wednesday 18th September I had more of it plus a meal at Jiks then later some delightful gluten free chocolate cake which had only benefited from being in the fridge.
My parents decided they needed a crate of beer for nights in and so we all went to the 24/7 shop next door to mine to get some. My mom tried to find a photo of where they lived but the owner nipped off on his motorbike, brought the car round and took them home, with the beer. He took it up the stairs to their kitchen, took a half empty crate back and only charged them 205 lira – a bargain.
In the evening I joined my parents for a drink at Amy’s bar followed by dinner at another new (to us) place to try from a list I’d made. From the Facebook posts I’d read, Troy got either great reviews or slagged off so it was a gamble and we were pleasantly surprised. The red wine was nice, my garlic mushrooms great and a massive portion. When my steak came it looked a bit lacklustre but it was perfectly cooked and very tasty – I was grateful it came with just veg, for a change. Dad had a starter of cheese rolls which looked delicious and I wished I could eat one.
On the way home we had to stop by Soul Kitchen for more wine and a complimentary bit of cheese. We didn’t have a massively late night because the next day we had decided to venture out.

I’d been in Turkey for 2 weeks already and was settling in nicely. On Thursday 19th September me and my parents decided to venture out. I had my usual breakfast of gluten free toast and then called a number my mom had got from a sign. I arranged for the man to meet us outside Jazz bar at 1pm and that’s what we did. He arrived with a minibus and we picked up another couple before driving to his place, Gölbaşı, out on the way to the beach.
It was a lovely traditional restaurant and watering hole with lots of wildlife and looked so nice. I got a bit excited at seeing so many terrapins in the water. We had a lovely lunch and shared a reasonably priced bottle of white wine while mom and dad reminisced on past visits with friends.
In the evening we decided we all needed a night in and I had a very healthy chicken wrap with yogurt and sweetcorn while watching more Broadchurch on Netflix.

Dalyan – my third weekend

On Friday 20th September I notice the bad diet habits and started to creep back in, not just booze – there were now an abundance of crisps available in Dalyan and I love crisps! In the meantime I was about to have the most calories I have ever consumed in one day in just an evening, as the three of us had booked a tour.
For breakfast I had gluten free bread with a scraping of cheese spread (no butter) and for lunch a chicken wrap with fat free yogurt and salad. I was being so healthy until it was time to call for my parents and had a rather large whisky on their balcony before our evening’s outing with Volkan’s Adventures.
We had trouble finding the office, which is small but next door to Lukka bar, and met with a group of other customers. I had a diet coke and we waited for everyone to arrive before being lead, by Volkan, to his boat. I had booked us on a wine tasting evening, which runs every Friday in the holiday season. It started all informative and classy with everyone sipping the white wine and listening to the history and tasting notes. It ended in absolute drunken mayhem, but somewhere in between we had made friends with the man shouting at another guest for licking his fingers while picking up pieces of chicken. We tried 10 wines and were then allowed to consume our favourites (all of them) and when the boat pulled back up in town we simply continued drinking. It was a bargain £35 for the boat trip and it was fantastic, from what we remember.
We finished off the night with one of our ‘new friends’ going missing and having to find her, me leaving my phone on the boat and having to be tracked down to the Gin bar for Volkan to return it, my mom having trouble getting my dad home because he could hardly walk and me bumping in to a friend and having 2 Bailey’s at Lukka bar!

On Saturday 21st September I felt like death and there was only one thing to sort me out – a greasy breakfast!
My parents met me at Jiks, by which time it was about 1pm, they had full English breakfasts and I had bacon, beans and mushrooms. We all decided to have a no alcohol day and I couldn’t even look at wine!
I did manage to be quite productive by actually doing some Vietnamese homework, watching more Broadchurch and booking a trip to Cappadocia with our friends from Australia.
In the evening we met a Turkish friend of mine for dinner at Geçit restaurant where I had a lovely beef casserole, which was lovely. For the first time in a long time I drank only orange juice (at breakfast) and water all day. We also needed to be back to normal for the next day because I had arranged for me, mom, dad and a friend to meet up with a random Dalyan dweller for the Singaporean Grand Prix.

In my desperation to watch the Singaporean Grand Prix on Sunday 22nd September without the disruption of rugby or football taking priority in a sports bar, I had roped us in for a Sunday lunch. Earlier in the week I had posted in a Facebook forum to ask where the F1 would be shown as priority and had managed to secure viewing at Central Park with a retired English woman who now lives here.
I’d only had my usual gluten free toast for breakfast and so was going to order something substantial for lunch. I walked to the cafe with my parents, where our friend joined us and we were 1 hour early, hoping to see the preamble of the race. At 2pm I ordered a big bottle of water, a cider and a jacket potato with Bolognese and cheese.
My ‘facebook group friend’ and her husband arrived and were perplexed to find the England v Tonga rugby game on with just one person watching it. By the time the owner put the race on we had missed the first 3 laps and the commentary was in German. The place was full of pensioners, a darts game was going on next to the TV but nevertheless we watched the race and then left with a brief goodbye to my new ‘friends’.
Captain Caveman was in Balikpapan or Melak (I lose track of him) and so I had been relaying the race updates to him. We were thinking of staying in but instead we ate at Pamukkale, a cheap but tasty cafe on the main road. I ordered aubergine and garlic yogurt and got enough to feed 4 so I brought loads of it home. We had a couple of glasses of wine and a fairly early night so I managed to finish watching the last episode of Broadchurch. On the way home I noticed that some blocks had been delivered at the end of our road and it looked like the paving of it was due to begin, the old road had been prepared and the zabıta had blocked it off with ‘crime scene’ tape.

Dalyan – A 40th birthday celebration and holiday

Dalyan – A 40th birthday celebration and holiday

As Captain Caveman travelled from Vietnam to Malaysia, I was having a good sleep and hoping for a lay in on Monday 9th September – it was the start of what would be a full-on week!!! I had the Migros gluten free toast for breakfast again and potted about, getting ready for my guests, until lunch.
It had been 9 months since I had last seen Emrah to experience the amazing skills of this wonderful hairdresser and I was so excited. He welcomed me in and looked at my sun and humidity damaged hair like he couldn’t wait to sort it out. I told him I wanted it cut and colored then sat back and let him work his magic. He always likes to style it with curls and is so professional that it feels like such a treat – he even took my photos afterwards. I took some more while having a cheeky wine at Soul Kitchen to celebrate my new hair do.
It was also the day I should have been flying from Kuala Lumpur to Istanbul but had not taken the flight, I was still glad I hadn’t as it meant I would be home when the girls arrived later that night.
I spent more time with my parents and we had a lovely meal at Çağrı, where the waiter is friendly and has been in Dalyan for years. We had a tipple in Jiks and then went back to mine for more drinks while we waited for the ladies and a bicycle to arrive. In true Captain Caveman style he had managed to get one of my friends to bring out another of his bicycles from the UK – I think she wins the prize this year for bulkiest thing to bring out.
It was around 11pm when they arrived, by which time I was already a bit merry, and I was so happy to see them. It was over a year since I’d seen Claire and Clare and 11 months since Kelly had last been to stay with us in Dalyan. We had a drink, a few nibbles and a cheers while trying not to dwell on the fact that our other friend had not been able to fly out because of the British Airways strikes currently taking place. The girls were only in Dalyan for 4 nights and so we planned to make the most of it!

On the first day of our girls holiday, Tuesday 10th September, I woke up feeling rather fragile and so we went to Kordon restaurant for breakfast. The purpose of this 4 day trip was to celebrate Claire’s 40th birthday and so we had booked her a surprise for Thursday. Before then we intended to relax in the day and go out in the evenings. We spent our day at the pool of BC Spa as it has the option of shade and sun, with comfy sunloungers. Kelly and I tried the cocktails and food there but it wasn’t great and took me three attempts to get a shrimp salad – the margaritas were pricey, with no sign of a salty rim. The pool was nice and refreshing so most of us had a swim and late afternoon Kelly and I had a treatment at the spa – I had a foot massage and she had a back massage, both were excellent.
Back home we got ready to go out and met my parents for a pre-dinner drink at Soul Kitchen. We had dinner at Kordon (same place as breakfast) where Claire and I had pre-ordered gluten free cheesy garlic bread. The food was lovely, especially the fresh seafood and prawns, but the night was made by the owner entertaining us with his card tricks. We’d already had a fair bit of wine but decided Bistro Blue would be our next stop where we created our own dancefloor and had the owner be our personal DJ – it got messy and we got in around 2am.

Wednesday 11th September was day 2 of the girls holiday and we started it with fuzzy heads and a WhatsApp group of drunken photos from the previous night. Claire and Kelly got up and went to the supermarket for provisions while Clare and I sorted ourselves out a bit. We were going to go to the beach but everyone decided they would rather be round the pool but first we decided to have a walk in to the town, given we had not got very far the day before. We walked by the river and settled on Yakamoz restaurant for lunch while trying to spot a turtle – all we saw were plenty of cats and some fish!
We had a cheeky drink at Amy’s bar and then shade-bathed at BC Spa again for the afternoon. In the evening I’d booked us in for a Turkish night at Lukka bar where there was a massive Turkish buffet and traditional dancing – it turned out to be a really good night and the food was fantastic.

It was the girls’ last day on Thursday 12th September and we had a surprise booked for Claire’s 40th birthday. Captain Turgay and his boat which we had to ourselves for the day, was our party venue. We sailed to a few different spots and had a really good laugh with lots of drinks and great music. Turgay cooked us a lovely lunch and we got to swim lots and I even had a nap on a sunbed on the roof of the boat.
For dinner we are at Ramazan Han’s then we went to do karaoke at Tequila Bar and ended up having a full night of fun. I didn’t want to think about having to say goodbye the next day!

On Friday 13th September the 4 of us got up early and went for breakfast at Chef – I had chips, beans and orange juice.
My parents came over to the apartment to see Claire and Kelly off as they went to the airport at 11am. Clare was on a later flight which gave us time to have a wander along the river for a drink at Ceyhan cafe – we all went for a soft drink but Dad managed a beer (he’s an animal)!
At 12:45pm I said goodbye to Clare and she was looking forward to another holiday straight after this one which meant we didn’t get too upset.
I stayed at home for lunch but in the evening I met my parents for dinner at Jiks. After such a boozey few days I was meant to have an alcohol free day but the waiter automatically sent over a red wine! I also had a chicken shish and a second glass but all three of us were looking forward to an early night.

Dalyan – my first weekend back in Turkey.

I arrived in Turkey on 5th September after a change of flight from Hanoi. I had booked an earlier flight and decided to not use the one I had booked for 4 days later with a lengthy layover in Jeddah. It was a bit sunny on my first morning in Dalyan but not as hot as I was expecting – it was also quiet as I walked along the river. I was planning to stay a while in Captain Caveman’s apartment near the town centre of Dalyan, where he would join me in about 6 weeks time.
The first person I bumped in to was Captain Turgay, who was at his boat getting ready for a day trip on the water. I had already booked him for a surprise birthday celebration for a friend’s 40th the week after and so we chatted about that. I had a mint tea and a vanilla milkshake at Dalyano so that I could use the internet to let people know I had arrived in Dalyan.
Still tired, I found a Turkish breakfast at Lukka bar, where I confused the waiter by ordering it without bread, eggs, cheese rolls, tomato and cucumber and it was pretty good! I stocked up with essentials at the corner shop and went to get unpacked and start the washing. I decided to have a quiet meal at Adilan where I really enjoyed the stuffed mushrooms and a chicken shish. Plans changed quickly when a friend went past on her bicycle and we ended up having quite a few drinks before going to Lukka and Jazz bar!

On Friday 6th September I would finally be seeing my parents again, after quite a long time. I’d last seen my mom in Turkey about 11 months ago but I’d not seen my dad for about 14 months, back in England. We had agreed to meet for breakfast and they would message me when they were up. I was awake from 7am (11am Vietnamese time) with a hangover and no recollection of saying bye to anyone last night.
I waited for the message and drank loads of water, trying to sort myself out as I felt terrible and had a really bad stomach.
We went to Jiks for breakfast around 10:30am where we all went for the English versions, it was great to see them and afterwards we stocked up on provisions and went back home for a rest.
In the afternoon we had a couple of drinks at Amy’s bar, where I managed two ciders and then in the evening we had our first family meal at one of our favourites, Bistro Blue. My chicken casserole was so big that I took some home and we had a good first night together drinking wine too.

In Dalyan there is a weekly market so on Saturday 7th September I went there with my parents while they stocked up on fresh veg, salad, fruit and cheese. I decided not to buy food as I was looking forward to eating out over the next few days/weeks.
It was a fairly relaxed, sunny day and I started reading a new book, which my mom had brought for me. I used to read a lot but had not read a book for about a year and was really looking forward to getting back in to it now that I would have some free time. The cleaners had been to the apartment and it was looking clean and tidy – it was nice to be back in Dalyan.
I received photos and messages from people in Phong Nha, Vietnam, to say it was sunny again and the water levels were down. This was good news as it was Captain Caveman’s last day in Phong Nha before he left for his adventures.
In the evening I joined my parents at Pamukkale restaurant for a lovely meal – I had stuffed mushrooms and a chicken shish, both very tasty.

Sunday 8th September was a very memorable day!!! It was such a good one that I forgot to take any photos, which is unlike me. I had shop bought gluten free bread (toasted) and lurpak butter for my breakfast and it was the first time I’d had it in 10 months. A friend had invited us to Sunday lunch at Lukka bar and despite me not being able to have the Yorkshire pudding, gravy or cauliflower cheese I really enjoyed my chicken version. My parents and fellow diners had the beef, which looked amazing. I also managed 4 glasses of white wine and a trip to Jiks – it was really good to just spend time chatting with the folks for a change (I was even laughing at Dad’s jokes).

Hẹn Gặp Lại Vietnam, Merhaba Turkey!

Monday 1st September was a busy day for learning the Vietnamese language in Hanoi. Before breakfast I did my homework, logged in to a new app for learning words and phrases (which the teacher, Lien, can see my progress on), and recorded myself saying the Vietnamese alphabet. Breakfast was a very healthy bowl of fruit with yoghurt and a mug of earl gray tea at a nearby cafe, Joma.
I had two lessons that afternoon with a gap for a bit more homework and some lunch at a nearby cafe. I had Bun Cha at Friends cafe which was satisfactory but not as good or cheap as the one at D-Arts in Phong Nha.
When I finished at Vietlesson around 6.30pm I got a Grab bike to The Local (again) to watch the Grand Prix. This time I was well prepared for rain with a spare set of clothes and a rain jacket that I didn’t need.
We had a bottle of wine, lots of peanuts and some bar food before a friend finished his lesson and joined us.

Lessons 4 & 5 were on Monday 2nd September with my first one being at 9:30am on Vietnamese Independence Day. After class Lien (my teacher) and I went to Oriberry cafe for a drink with Captain Caveman. He had the great idea to call to a shopping mall to try to find me a swimming costume in M&S, which turned in to a terrible idea. I have never seen a public place so busy, aside from a stadium event.The biggest size was 12 and so I was out of luck, we didn’t even find anywhere to have lunch as it was just rammed so we got a taxi back to town and went to one of my favourite restaurants in Hanoi.
We ate a selection of food at the Fat Pig and it was excellent, as always.
My next lesson was at 5pm and then I arranged to meet Captain Caveman and some friends for a meal at a local BBQ place.

My last two Vietnamese lessons were on Tuesday 3rd September and so we had a great breakfast at Home 38 before I headed off to Vietlesson for 10am.
At lunch time I came back to Himalayan Phoenix to meet Captain Caveman for lunch. We chose Joma as it was close and I had fruit salad with yoghurt followed by a chicken salad. I spent time doing my homework and then left Captain Caveman at a bar while I went for my 5pm lesson (my last one for this year). Captain Caveman and I would be going to different places for a holiday and he was off caving and diving which meant I wouldn’t see him for just over 6 weeks – because of this I was hoping for a nice last evening in Hanoi and possibly a romantic meal. Of course that didn’t happen!
I said goodbye to my teacher and got a Grab bike to The Bottle Shop where I met a very drunk Captain Caveman and an old Phong Nha friend.
We had drinks and everytime I finished one, Captain Caveman still had a full one. We had a laugh but by 9:30pm I was getting a bit tetchy as I still needed to pack as I was leaving Vietnam the next morning.
Eventually, after much faffing about, Captain Caveman and I said our farewells to our friend and headed towards home. As we were walking I mentioned I was disappointed he had not taken me to Cousins (as promised) so we went there at 9:50pm with only 10 minutes until closing. Luckily they still served us starters and mains plus a bottle of nice wine and Captain Caveman was so drunk we had to take the rest of the wine home. While I was packing my stuff he fell asleep fully clothed and I couldn’t wake him up at all.

My original flight from Vietnam to Turkey was with Saudi Air via Jeddah in another 4 days time, however, I didn’t fancy taking it (due to a few reasons) and decided to get a new flight via Istanbul instead. Wednesday 4th September was the new date of the flight which also meant I had my return flight booked back to Vietnam in January 2020. After such a big (and late) dinner the night before we decided against breakfast. Captain Caveman and I went straight to the airport and it was clear he was feeling fragile – he looked extremely peaky too.
After I checked in, my first flight to Moscow with Aeroflot was due to leave just before 11am and so we said our goodbyes. There were no dramas or declarations of feelings as I think Captain Caveman was doing his best to not be sick (again).
In the airport I ordered pho ga and a bottle of water at a small cafe near the gate and it set me back 175,000 vnd which is ridiculous but I was hungry. It was a really good chicken noodle soup actually and I was glad I had it as the Russians are a big fan of wheaty meals and I wasn’t sure when I would next be able to eat.
On the flight I finally got to watch a couple of films that I’d heard good reviews about – Bohemian Rhapsody and A Star is Born (I should have had tissues at the ready for the second film – Jeez). I also watched a documentary on Cappadocia and how it will eventually disappear due to tourists walking round it. It was interesting but I had a trip to visit there coming up in October.
When we landed in Moscow we were 35 minutes early which was very lucky as I only just made the transfer to my flight to Istanbul. One hour is not enough time to catch a connecting flight in Moscow, in my opinion, the airport is extremely busy with numerous shops and difficult to run through.
The next flight ended up being delayed, had no entertainment, or alcohol and so I watched Mindhunter and fell asleep. When I arrived at Istanbul it was just before midnight but we had to sit on the runway for quite a while until we could get off.