Danang to Phong Nha – 26th April

Our Monday morning on 26th April started with our SE8 train from Danang to Dong Hoi being delayed by 30 minutes. We sat in the crowded train station in our masks and waited, then it was delayed further, meaning we didn’t get going until 01.35am and Captain Caveman certainly had on his grumpy trousers and was being mean. I decided not to bother talking to him any more as he was in an argumentative mood, because he didn’t get his takeaway. I was also not looking forward to the train journey because Captain Caveman had only been able to book top bunks which, even with fully functioning legs, was a struggle for me to get on. As we boarded the train the guard showed me a message asking if we wanted to get our own cabin but Captain Caveman said no, we were fine with top bunks. In our carriage on the 2 bottom bunks were a family of 2 adults and 2 kids so another guard asked if we wanted to take another carriage by ourselves but, again, Captain Caveman said no. My knee ached after climbing up but it wasn’t too bad, I had some painkillers and then tried to go to sleep. The family below us were fast asleep and quiet whereas Captain Caveman was snoring so loud that I got no sleep at all. Early in the morning I needed to pee and I really struggled to get down off the bed (it was harder than getting up) but I had to do it and I managed with difficulty to get back up again. I fell asleep about 5.30am, just as everyone else was starting to get up. The cases of Corona in Vietnam had started to creep up a bit and there were 13 today, meanwhile Turkey had overtaken the UK for total number of cases but were still lower for deaths. Vietnam was still relatively low in comparison but it was likely that the next wave could hit at any time.
Our driver was already waiting when we arrived at Dong Hoi train station but I needed the toilet and to meet Kimmie with my passport who had got me another visa extension done. I was now allowed to stay until the 9th May and the agent had previously quoted me $60, it ended up being $65, but she said next month would be $60. Captain Caveman was still grumpy but I was even mardier and so tired I could hardly function. The driver had been instructed to drop us off at the Glass House in Phong Nha and Captain Caveman was trying to insist that I could wait there until he’d seen off Howard’s Son Doong tour then he would drive me home on a rented motorbike, once he’d got one. I was having none of it and insisted he at least drop me on the highway and I would walk. I wanted a shower and a sleep, where I lived, which we were almost passing anyway. Eventually he agreed and I got home, still in a mood and desperate to go back to bed.

When Captain Caveman returned from Phong Nha just after 10am I had accidentally fallen asleep after my shower. There was no more snoozing to be had, though, because we were off to meet Hanh, a friend who I was meant to meet in Hoi An but she was in Phong Nha for a couple of weeks. We decided we would go to East Hill for an early lunch of BBQ chicken and sticky rice by motorbike, even though it isn’t very far from our place. I managed the steps up pretty well and Hanh was already there, ready for our early lunch. I decided to have a pepsi and this was the first time I noticed the odd sugary fizzy drink was creeping in to my diet – it always seems to happen when the hot weather comes. Captain Caveman did the honours of cutting up the hot chicken and we tucked in, all rather hungrily. As always, the chicken was excellent and the views were stunning, it was lovely to see Hanh, who we hadn’t seen since she left Phong Nha last year, when her Bun Cha restaurant had to close due to lack of customers. Captain Caveman had a shandy so I decided a strongbow would be nice and refreshing on such a hot day. The steps back down were still a bit harder to do but Hanh helped me, then we said our goodbyes, hoping to meet again and headed home before what looked like a storm brewing.

I had another short nap and then there was a huge downpour and a storm. Unfortunately Captain Caveman’s next Son Doong briefing was at 6pm so we shared the falafel salad (the one we brought all the way from Nomad’s Kitchen in Danang and was still really good) and then he had to venture out in the rain. He had been suffering terribly with hayfever too, since returning to Phong Nha, but luckily he had the motorbike rather than having to cycle the 9km there. While he was at work, the rain continued to pour down, it was bad enough for a frog to try to take shelter on Captain Caveman. The two-toed frog had tried to climb up his leg, maybe to take shelter under his shorts, but had to settle with a rest on his shoe! By the time Captain Caveman returned I was already in bed, all the excitement of Danang had worn me out!

Danang – 25th April

We decided to take Captain Caveman for a breakfast at Pho Thin on Sunday 25th April, even though he rarely eats pho. It was my 3rd time and his first but we all enjoyed our pho bo very much. Captain Caveman was very impressed with the hotel too and loved the industrial feel and bridge artwork at Bridges Danang Boutique Hotel.
In the Vietnamese news there were reports of increased risk of Corona outbreaks coming into Vietnam illegally and it was becoming a bit more concerning. Here’s the info:
https://vietnamnews.vn/society/933140/health-minister-urges-localities-to-be-vigilant-for-covid-19-amid-regional-outbreaks.html

After a bit of a rest our next stop was to meet Des at Roadhouse for a cheap beer because he felt bad about last night. Roadhouse was a small place and we got there just as the friendly owner was opening up for the day. Captain Caveman had a draft pint of Huda, Des stuck with a bottle of Huda and I had a soft drink, until the next round when I went on to the red wine. We decided to order burgers and Captain Caveman hilariously actually ordered by saying he would have a ‘big black cock’ because he thought that’s what BBC stood for (it was Beef, Bacon, Cheese – OMG)! I ordered a single dad naked which was without the bread and some chips and cheese. All the food was tasty and really good value so it was a great recommendation from Des.

Next we went to meet Steve and June at Dirty Fingers and bumped in to some of the others who were already enjoying a drink. There was a BBQ on and a promise of a live band later but we already had plans for a Sunday dinner. June and I sat chatting while the boys talked about sports and we had some very nice wine before Captain Caveman and I had to go back to the hotel to pack and check out.

I’d arranged for us to have a late check out from Bridges Danang Boutique Hotel on Sunday 25th April but leave our bags in reception from 6pm, we planned to get the 00.35 train to Dong Hoi and so would be back before midnight to collect them. Hamish had arranged a table at The Nomad Kitchen for 14 of us for Sunday dinner and a rather merry Des had decided to join too – he was having a second go at his birthday celebration! Captain Caveman and I were the first to arrive and we took some photos of me outside with the angel wings and all the motorbikes in front of the painting. We ordered the carafes of wine, which were great value, for me, June and Captain Caveman. Steve and Des had beer, Hamish and Ania were next to arrive with wine and join the table. They usually come with their mates on a Sunday for the roast dinner and so they had asked Captain Caveman and I to join them to put it to the test. Unfortunately there was some short staffing issues that night but we didn’t particularly notice it as we put our order in first, most of us going for buffalo meat, June had chicken. The meat was gorgeous, so tender and the veg cooked well except for a couple of us having undercooked potatoes. This was sorted out though and we were given a couple more nicely cooked ones. The Yorkshire puddings were marvellous and I didn’t get a gluten reaction from them which was great. The portion sizes aren’t big but for 130,000vnd (£4) it’s not to be sniffed at. Captain Caveman even ordered a dessert of apple pie with cream which went down a treat! Because we were getting the train just after midnight we also decided to order a takeaway; Captain Caveman enjoyed the buffalo meat so much that he chose to have that in a sandwich, I ordered a falafel salad. The Nomad Kitchen closes at 10.30pm so we ordered the food for then but, unfortunately, Captain Caveman was told too late that there was no buffalo left and so he didn’t get a takeaway. Because he was drunk he wasn’t best pleased that he had not been told earlier and had a bit of a strop, shouting at Daniel the chef – which was a bit embarrassing! We said our goodbyes to June and Steve then left to join Hamish, Ania and Mik, at Oi Bar for one last ‘end of holiday’ drink. I had a vodka and coke to try to keep me awake and then it was time to go get our bags and head off to the station. We said our goodbyes to Hamish, Mik and Des before getting a Grab taxi with Ania back to Bridges for our bags. It had been a fantastic week and I was grateful for all our friends’ hospitality and welcome, as well as very sad to be leaving. What a week, I think I was going to need a few days off to recover!

Danang – 24th April

Captain Caveman arrived at Bridges Danang Boutique Hotel at 5.30am on Saturday 24th April after a long bus ride which he did manage to get some sleep on. We met Hamish and Ania and went for breakfast at a place called Cohibar. I had bacon, beans and potatoes, Captain Caveman had a croque madame, Ania a chicken salad and Hamish chicken nuggets. The breakfast was ok, service a little slow but it was nice enough and we got caught up on the plans for the rest of the weekend. We were meant to be getting the bus back on Monday but we decided to change our plans to leave Sunday night, by train instead. Captain Caveman was concerned the bus might not get him back in time for work if it happened to be late and I was glad to not be taking a bus as I really don’t like them and prefer the train.

Our next stop was a quick drink (or two) in Vertigo Bar where Mik joined us, Hamish had to go to do something, and then on to Taco Ngon, a place that had been on our list to visit for a while. I had 3 tacos, Ania and Captain Caveman just had 2 and they were really good, especially washed down with a very well made Margarita.

It was Des’s birthday today so I had organised a get together that night at 7 Bridges Taproom where I’d booked a table on the roof. When we arrived the table hadn’t been reserved at all, despite me booking with the manager and Steve double checking, so they dragged some tables together and we made the most of the seating situation under the turbo fans which messed up everyone’s hair. A few of us had been before so knew the type of place it was but I think some of the party, who’d not been before, were disappointed there wasn’t any cheaper drinks or offers on, there was even a sign saying they no longer do any drinks offers. I’d not even thought of this because I don’t usually drink beer and am used to paying a premium for wine instead. It was a big mix of people who we knew from Phong Nha who all were currently staying in Danang and we had a good laugh. Most of the crowd had left to go to eat before the birthday boy had arrived, as he was working until 9pm. The rest of us watched the dragon bridge breathe fire and there was a parade on the streets below which made it tricky for Diana to get here and even harder for Des who finally arrived all stressed and in a bad mood. June, Steve, Captain Caveman and I ordered one of the gigantic pizzas, which were very impressive but I just had 1 slice then spent the rest of the night going to the toilet. I only chose the venue because I thought it would suit everyone else (beer and pizza) but it didn’t and was a bit of a none-party in the end, especially as my intolerance to gluten seemed to definitely be back) still it was good to meet up with friends I’d met in Phong Nha in Danang and I know Captain Caveman, June and Steve are big fans of the 7 Bridges Taproom. The most memorable thing about the night for me was the scary man, or the pigs, in the toilets and the 3 red wines I had! Going down the stairs from the 4th floor to ground level was not as difficult as it had been in recent months and I was getting a bit quicker. We toyed with the idea of going somewhere else to celebrate Des’s birthday but decided to call it a night around 11.30pm – not bad for a weekend night in Danang.

Video of the dragon breathing fire

Photo and video credit – Karl & Captain Caveman

Hoi An and Danang – 23rd April

It was incredibly hot in Hoi An on Friday 23rd April and I was sad to be leaving Caroline’s and Hoi An this afternoon. Before I went back to Danang, Caroline took me on her motorbike to the Roving Chill House for breakfast. It was situated in the rice fields so was looking really pretty and, to be on the safe side, I had a fruit plate and a peach tea for breakfast. Caroline had avocado and egg on toast and a coffee and she was also planning on a trip to Danang today with Neil. I was impressed that I managed to get on and off the big bike without too much hassle and it was super comfy.
We went home and packed my stuff up before going to meet Melissa at Sounds of Silence, a cute cafe on the beach. It was strange to still see the damage of the floods from last year and there were workmen trying to rebuild the beach side. I had a fresh coconut while looking out over the sea and Aaliyah made me a swan from paper. Caroline and Neil joined us before their bike trip and let Aaliyah have a sit on Caroline’s bike, which she loved. I was meant to meet old friends, Ben and Hilary but their plans in Hoi An changed. I said my goodbyes to Neil, who we hoped to see in Tam Hai next month, and Caroline, who would become Poison_I_Vee tomorrow when she set off on her exciting road trip with Vee, the dog. You can check out her adventures on Instagram here: https://instagram.com/poison_i_vee400cc?igshid=zgu7641ek8n8

I arrived back at Bridges Danang Boutique Hotel on Friday 23rd April for the weekend, to a nice welcome and to check in to a bigger room for not much extra – 550,000vnd per night (£17). I was very impressed with the hotel and my room which, this time, had a sea view and a much bigger bathroom. Captain Caveman would be out of Son Doong later today and had a ticket for the 8pm bus to come to Danang for the weekend. After checking in, putting my washing in to the hotel’s great laundry service and eating some veggie rice and soup from room service I met up with Hamish and Ania.

That afternoon I had another important appointment at the opticians as I had noticed my eyesight was getting worse for distance and my glasses were very worn out. At the opticians they were very thorough and I had good news, my eyes were now both the same prescription (-3.25) and I chose some new glasses, this time I went darker. Unfortunately they would have to post them to me as they wouldn’t be ready before we went back home, but that was fine.
Back at the hotel we got ready and were off to a small BBQ restaurant which Captain Caveman and I had tried and failed to go to before. They only open at weekends and do a limited amount of food which when it’s gone, it’s gone. Hamish had organised it well and we had a big table at Eazy Pickins where I joined him, Ania, Mik, Darran, Kendra, Bryan, and a couple I’d not met before. The food was unbelievably good and we all forced as much down as possible before going for one more drink at Oi Bar. I had a couple of glasses of wine and Hamish got everyone a shot but got told off because we were all too full for shots. It was a great night but Hamish, Ania and I left the others at Oi bar and went back to the hotel. I didn’t want to be hungover when Captain Caveman arrived at stupid o’clock in the morning and my ankle was a bit swelled up from a lot of walking today.

Photo credit – Caroline and Melissa

Hoi An – 22nd April

I had a lovely day in Hoi An on Thursday 22nd April with Caroline. I’d slept much later than I usually do and so our first stop was for breakfast at Rosie’s. We met Neil who had just bought a new motorbike and so they were chatting on about parts and planning a visit to the Harley Davidson shop in Danang. Neil came up with the Poison Ivy song being used as her kind of backing track and he and I sang it while waiting for our breakfast to arrive. It was really hot and sweaty so I probably shouldn’t have gone for the English breakfast, I’d come to regret the choice of sausage later. Caroline had the breakfast burritos which looked good and Neil a salad bowl with extra chicken which was a better choice than mine. Back at Caroline’s we had a much needed dip in the pool which was so lovely, we even had a glass of fizz while we swam. I had a bit of trouble getting out of the pool and ended up having to go backwards because the tiles on the side were too slippy, but she did have steps and a bath mat so all was good.

Caroline had been invited to a friend’s house party for sunset, my stomach wasn’t great after the sausages so I had a little nap and then gave belly rubs to River. Around 7.30pm Caroline came home and we decided to get a taxi to the old town for dinner. I was shocked at how quiet it was as we walked from the main street towards the river front, something I couldn’t have done last time I was here. Caroline suggested we eat at a delightful little place called Cabanon where she introduced me to the chef and owner, Gilles. We decided to have a bottle of fizz and a half baked camembert to share for starters, Caroline also ordered the pâté which I don’t normally eat. We were quite hungry because we had not eaten since breakfast and I’d taken a Gastropulgite prior to dinner to help prevent any stomach problems. The starters were fantastic and I even tried, and enjoyed, some of the pâté. For mains we decided to share our dishes of carbonara and chicken cordon bleu and the food was so good! A man on the next table heard Caroline talk about her forthcoming motorbike ride and went off to buy her a bandana for wearing underneath her helmet to keep her hair good and prevent a sweaty head – how nice of him! Back home we had a nightcap, of more fizz, while singing and dancing to music – I’d had a great time on my last night in Hoi An.

Danang and Hoi An – 21st April

Wednesday 21st April, as it fell this year, was an important day in Vietnam and is considered a holiday day. However with the risks of another wave of Corona there was likely to be more restrictions being put in place than usual. Read more info here:
https://tuoitrenews.vn/news/ttnewsstyle/20210420/vietnamese-flock-to-festival-shrug-off-outbreak-risk/60474.html
Our last breakfast together was at Pho Thin again because we all enjoyed the pho there so much and it would be the last meal with Tatas. She had a pick up car coming at 11.30am to shuttle her to the bus to Phong Nha which should get her home for about 6pm that night. We all said how much of a good time we had coming to visit and we hoped to do it again as soon as we could all get dates that would allow it. I also decided I would get a Grab car at the same time as I had plans to go to Hoi An for a couple of days. When the car arrived, Tatas said her goodbyes and got in, only to find it was actually my car – I would have been so annoyed to have been sent back to Phong Nha instead of Tatas! I said farewell until the weekend and off I went to Hoi An to meet a friend for lunch.

I arrived at Veggie Hut in Hoi An at 12.15pm and ordered a pot of jasmine tea while I waited for Melissa and her family to arrive. I decided to have fresh spring rolls and some sweet potatoes, Aaliyah ordered the veggie moussaka with the intention of saving half for dinner and Melissa had the chocolate cherry cake. All the family were looking tanned and healthy and were enjoying living in Hoi An. They were our neighbours back at Elements Collection when they lived in Phong Nha (they even moved in with us during the floods in October 2020 for a couple of days) and they missed the Phong Nha Farmstay and all their friends there. When the food came mine was too spicy as it had something like kimchee in the rolls but Aaliyah ate all of her food because she really enjoyed it. Elijah and Rimaha shared a Snickers ice-cream dessert which looked really good. It was really good to see them and have a good chat about all the stuff they had been doing since moving here. The lunch meet up went quick and, because my Grab app no longer works, I asked for the staff to call me a taxi for my next appointment.

My taxi driver dropped me outside Citrus Spa in Hoi An where I had booked in for some waxing. I’d been to this salon before and knew they were good so had booked in for the works! I also fancied a bit of reflexology which I hoped to fit in at the end. I’d arranged to meet Caroline, who had kindly invited me to stay at her place in An Bang, Hoi An. When I came downstairs from having my waxing done, this time no need to bum shuffle, she was already in having a full body massage, which meant I had time for my foot massage. It was fantastic and I felt so relaxed after it that I could have had a snooze but there was not enough time. Caroline and I had a hug and paid our bills, I was surprised to get a big discount and paid less than 800,000vnd (£25) for everything.

Next we went to Hill Station in Hoi An for a cheeky prosecco and a selection of cheeses with some bread and gluten free crackers – it was delightful! After the Hill Station we decided to go to the wine shop to pick up a few bottles so we could go back to Caroline’s place and have a night in with the pets, who I was also looking forward to seeing, and a good natter. We got the prosecco open and had a really good chat, I was pleased I’d decided to stay at Caroline’s as we did have a good laugh and it was nice to just chill out and eat some gluten free crisps and salsa dip. We also reinvented beer koozies (insulated beer cooler holders) by fashioning them to fit our wine glasses so that we didn’t have to be philistines by putting ice in our wine!
My bedroom was really lovely and comfortable with an ensuite, balcony and a sliding door to the pool so I had a great sleep that night!

Danang & Hoi An – 20th April

As Tatas was only here for a short time, we decided we should make the most of it on Tuesday 20th April and our friends had great recommendations for us. Captain Caveman had returned from Son Doong yesterday but gone back in today and I’d not had chance to speak to him before his next tour. Today the plan was to have a relaxing day at Hoi An Silk Beach Club with Tatas, who was also working while next to the pool. Transport is so much cheaper in Danang than in Phong Nha and was only 200,000vnd (£6.20) from Danang to Hoi An, about 45 minutes away. When we arrived we were the only people there and so we had the pool to ourselves. I was so hungover that I ordered a can of Fanta and some french fries for brunch and I’d forgotten my swimmers. As there was no one around I went swimming in my undies and was able to hoist myself out of the pool relatively ok, but not gracefully.

Once back at Bridges Danang Boutique Hotel we had a shower and change before we went off for a full body massage at Herbal Spa which Kendra had also recommended. The 90 minute aromatherapy full body massage was looking like the best deal for what I wanted and I asked them to concentrate more on my shoulders and feet and they also asked about injuries and pressure which was great as usually massages in Vietnam are brutally strong. There was a special offer on of 150,000vnd (£4.65) for 60 minutes or 240,000vnd (£7.44) for 90 minutes including hot stones if you wanted them (I opted for it without). It was very relaxing and so professional, one of the best massages I’ve ever had and we even got a cute outfit to wear to protect modesty – what a lovely treat!
After the massage we were given free soup, herbal tea and coconut crackers, which you could also buy and were gluten free. I was so relaxed that I felt like going back to the hotel to go to bed but we had plans for Tatas’ last night of her mini-break. I made a note to self that I definitely would be staying off the alcohol tonight though!

After the 3rd shower of the day at the hotel, we were off out for dinner. It was Tatas’ last night so she got to choose where she would like to eat. We arrived at The Nomad Kitchen in An Thuong and ordered some drinks while looking at the menu. It was a shame that I’d decided not to drink as they had some decent wine for a good price.
For my dinner I had the fish and chips with homemade tartare sauce for 110,000vnd (£3.40) and it was absolutely amazing. Tatas had a buffalo dinner, while the rest of the table had dishes which included a side order of buffalo, bacon croquettes, and falafel salad. The food was really good and Daniel, the chef, is incredibly skilled. When a couple of us ordered the white chocolate tart for dessert I asked if I could have an extra price of fish for my pudding instead, it was that good and even came with extra vinegar. I could only drink sparkling water as I was honestly begging for mercy, I needed to remember I am much older than all of these party animals! Tonight I remembered that the AC needs to be turned on again after taking out the key card and I settled down for a relatively early night about 11.30pm, while Tatas carried on her night at Oi bar, Emma’s and Shamerock. Tomorrow Tatas and I would be checking out of this lovely hotel but only she was off back to Phong Nha – I had more adventures planned!

Phong Nha to Danang – 19th April

My alarm went off at 4am on Monday 19th April as I was off on a holiday within a holiday. Tatas was already on the bus, which was delayed a bit and would drop her in Danang at 5.30am but I find bus travel uncomfortable and dangerous so I had opted to get the train. Phuong picked me up at 4.30am and we drove to Dong Hoi train station. We were early for my 5.42am train and as we all waited in the station, masked up, it became delayed by 30 minutes. I was booked in to Coach 2 on a soft seat which was half the price of a bed and surprisingly comfy. I had 2 seats to myself until we got to Hue and managed to nod off to sleep a little bit.

I finally arrived an hour late in to Danang at 12.30 and my driver was waiting for me, carrying a board with my name on. On arrival at Bridges Danang Boutique Hotel, in the Son Tra area of Danang, I was very pleasantly surprised. Even though I had booked a cosy double, it was still really good and not as small as I expected. The room had an industrial look with a picture of a bridge – Captain Caveman would love it.

I’d not eaten anything at all yet so I was starving and luckily Hamish and Ania were ready to take Tatas and I to a really good pho restaurant, a short Grab ride away. Pho Thin has great pho bo and was so tasty and filling, it’s a well known eatery here in Danang and also there is one in Hanoi.
After breakfast/lunch the 4 of us went to a bar called Section 30 in the An Thuong area of Danang to meet Kendra and a few of her friends who were all using the co-working space upstairs. We tried the cherry beer which was a bit too nice but I didn’t want to drink too much of it before my rather important appointment at 3.30pm.

It had been 1 year, 3 months, 1 week and 1 day since my last hairdresser’s visit so I was off to Ly’s Salon for a 3.30pm hair appointment – I was so excited! Kendra had recommended this place and so I had booked for the full cut, colour, head massage and styling. Ania and Kendra were coming at 5pm and Tatas decided to come with me for a bit of pampering. We walked it using Google maps, which neither of us are good with, and ended up having to walk across a building site and then still got the wrong place as they had moved. The place was small but professional looking and they had lots of activity. It felt so good to be finally getting a hair colour and then a good cut, but still keeping it long. The head massage was done in a separate room in the dark and it was absolutely amazing. Kendra and Ania came after work, Kendra treated us to a bottle of bubbles to drink while we were getting our new hairdos and it felt like being in a salon back in the western world, it was that good.

Once we’d finished it was time to go for a cheeky drink with the lads and Hamish had promised Tatas and I that he would take us to one of his favourite spots for a good value steak dinner. There was a group of us for dinner at Vertigo in An Thuong, Danang and, of course, it involved lots of wine, Hamish even got everyone a Jaeger shot before the food! Most of us ordered the steak because Hamish had recommended it and had suggested it could be the best in town so we were very much looking forward to it. A random stranger arrived and apologised for being late as he thought he was going to be joining us but it turned out he was meeting the bloke behind us but we all had a good laugh at that. My steak was perfectly cooked, very tasty and did not disappoint – I was impressed because the bar we were eating was nothing fancy.

After too much red wine we paid up and decided to head to Oi bar where we sat outside and had more drinks and the Tequila shots were on the go! They ran out of salt and lime at one stage and we had to improvise before apparently going to a bar called Emma’s, for some reason I don’t remember being at the bar although I do recall buying some pork and mushroom steamed buns and eating those, plus insisting every one try them. My stomach was fine and I even managed a drunken visit to ‘Shamerock’ where we got to dance the night away to some cool tunes, as Des became the DJ. I even met the owners and tried to get a few of the regulars to have a dance with us. It was such a great night and when we eventually got back to the hotel we had to ring the door bell to be let in – I was so chuffed with this! I wasn’t so pleased when I woke up, fully clothed at 4am, lights on and no Aircon feeling ever so parched! I can definitely say the first day of my holiday within a holiday was a huge success and Tatas had really enjoyed herself too. Hamish and Ania were the perfect hosts and their friends were welcoming and good fun.

Phong Nha – the 3rd weekend of April

The tannoy was back up to loud for the weekend at 5.30am on Friday 16th April. Captain Caveman was off to his next Son Doong tour and Tatas had confirmed she was going to be able to go to Danang on Sunday after her Tu Lan trip and was getting the overnight bus, we also agreed to meet up at The Villas for pizza night later, today she was off to lunch and karaoke with her customers.
Bich helped me out by asking Duyet to get me some eye drops for my irritated eye, he came over to check my eye and what kind of eye-drops I needed, which was nice. I ate peanut M&Ms for breakfast, gluten free quinoa crackers and an apple for lunch then started watching Series 2 of Love Island on Netflix. I snacked on dragon fruit and then made mushroom and egg fried rice for dinner because the oven had broken at The Villas so pizza night was cancelled, which also meant I didn’t meet Tatas there either.

I decided to cycle to the Farmstay on Saturday 17th April for breakfast of pho bo, soda water and a green tea. Bluey had to have her tyres pumped up but she made the ride there in 8 minutes 37 seconds, which wasn’t bad. I stayed at the Farmstay for a lunch of fresh spring rolls with pork and prawn and a ginger beer, beside the pool which was nice. My journey back was just 8 minutes 31 seconds and it was very hot and sticky! Later, I opened a bottle of wine and had a couple of glasses then some sourdough with laughing cow cheese-spread, which made me sick again – it was definitely Gluten and/or dairy! I had an early night watching Love Island, hoping the gluten intolerance would go away.

My stomach problem was back with a vengeance at 4am on Sunday 18th April and I felt terrible. By breakfast time I forced dragon fruit, water and jasmine tea in then rested a lot. By lunch time I had been really ill and hoped by eating gluten free quinoa crackers I might recover. I finished off Love Island and did some writing but the furthest I ventured was on the balcony to admire the views.
I saw the Corona stats were not looking good for Turkey as the number of cases rose to just 173,000 less than the UK and the deaths were 92,000 less, but they were catching up fast and with less progress on vaccines so far.
By dinner time I was feeling better so I ate a masaman curry which I added a couple of carrots, a potato and a couple of spoonfuls of peanut butter to before packing for my ‘holiday within a holiday’ . Tatas messaged me to say she had already left Phong Nha on the bus, 30 minutes earlier than planned, which would arrive in Danang at around 3am. I would join her tomorrow for a bit of an adventure!

Phong Nha – 15th April

Thursday 15th April had some excitement afoot; my leg was making slow progress but I was conscious that I needed to try to get out more to places I have been struggling to visit for the last year because of my injury. If I was going to make it on a trip away any time soon I needed to get used to walking where it is unpredictable and more difficult than the places I know well. I just had an apple for breakfast because we were off out for lunch as well as meeting Tatas later at The Villas for holiday planning, once she got out of her Tu Lan 4 day tour. On the way downstairs I tried for the first time putting one foot in front of the other to go down each step and I managed it (twice) for the first time since my injury. Captain Caveman and I went by motorbike to East Hill for the BBQ chicken and sticky rice for the first time in over 1 year. We had ordered delivery from there but had not been to visit because of my bad leg and the steep uneven steps they have. I managed the steps up ok, with a bit of help from Captain Caveman and we had a whole chicken to ourselves which was so gorgeous and, as long as I could get back down the steps, we said we would visit again soon. I did need help with the way down, especially where the handrail disappears but I made it – I wouldn’t have made it in the dark though.

Afterwards we went back to the Glass House so that I could collect a few things and Captain Caveman could sort out the allocation of Son Doong tips then get his washing repacked for his next trip tomorrow. Our next stop was at The Villas to wait for Tatas before Captain Caveman went to his briefing at 6pm but by 5.30pm I’d not heard from her and she hadn’t arrived. Captain Caveman ordered a pizza and I had 2 pieces of it and a lemon juice, then some red wine. Tatas finally messaged to say she was at Chay Lap with her customers so wouldn’t be coming out. I sat and caught up on blogging with wine while Captain Caveman went to his briefing then I had a chicken and bacon sandwich which I took most of the bread off and only managed a few chips before I had a bad stomach. Since the gastroenteritis my gluten intolerance was back with a vengeance, it appeared and we even had to do an emergency stop on the way home because of my stomach. Captain Caveman was not impressed and insisted I needed to give up gluten and dairy completely now and made me promise to. In the news there were reports that Asia was suffering from not having enough room for Corona patients in hospitals, after a record amount of cases and new lockdowns imposed, more info here:
https://tuoitrenews.vn/news/international/20210415/hospitals-run-short-of-beds-as-asia-s-covid19-cases-surge/60383.html
Before I went to bed I noticed that the bit of dust I had got in my eye on the way home had made it bloodshot and a bit sore, it even made it difficult for me to get to sleep.

Phong Nha – 14th April

Captain Caveman brought me my breakfast in bed on Wednesday 14th April; a banana, some strawberries and some grapes. He had a day off and we had been awake since the 5.30am tannoy which had been a bit quieter today. I’d hoped we might be spending the day doing something different but Captain Caveman had already arranged to go to Phong Nha and then off on a rented motorbike for a reccy of a cycling route for a race coming up this summer. I was hoping for an extra nap when the housekeeping staff knocked on the door to come in to clean. I decided to sit outside and admire the garden while catching up on the To Do List. Mr Ky, the dog, was off his lead and wandering around so he came to say hello when I called him. For lunch I had an apple, a small piece of crust from the fresh bread and the last of my vegan meals which was braised root vegetables. When Captain Caveman returned I made him an omelette, it’s the only thing I’m good at cooking but won’t eat and we decided to open a bottle of Lindemans sparkling white wine. While he ate the sour cream Pringles, I had some cashew nuts which we bought at Funny Monkeys. For dinner Captain Caveman made us a tasty pasta dish with salami, mushrooms and peppers and we had a relaxing evening. Even though I had eaten gluten I was not ill from the pasta, which was good news!

Phong Nha – 13th April

I’d already pre-ordered some fresh bread from the Lake House for Captain Caveman to pick up on Tuesday 13th April. Veronika had also ordered sourdough for all of us via Bich and so we were about to be rather full of bread in our house, just as my gluten intolerance returns! The tannoys this morning were quiet with only a short announcement which was a relief for anyone with a hangover. Captain Caveman went out for the shuttle service but it was late by 15 minutes and he then didn’t even go to The Villas for his breakfast, just to pick up his bicycle and call in to his work. I had a banana, grapes and strawberries for my breakfast at home and then plonked myself on the sun-lounger by the pool for the rest of the day. I had more Earth Cafe food for lunch with a delightful vegan spaghetti which I really enjoyed and could easily have eaten that dish again.

When Captain Caveman returned I suggested we have a walk to the Farmstay as a bit of exercise for my leg and we took my walking poles. The walk took us 32 minutes and 45 seconds which is still slow but Captain Caveman took videos of my walking and it looked to have improved.

Captain Caveman’s video of me walking to Phong Nha Farmstay

We sat with Veronika, Karl and Sue and I had a couple of ciders, Andrew and his 1 year old were in the pool but joined us and then Bich joined us too. For dinner it was shepherd’s pie night with a new deal which is 300,000vnd (£9.30) and includes a drink and a dessert, we decided we would have something different today. Captain Caveman had meat pie, chips, veg and gravy which is 120,000vnd (£3.72) and I had duck a l’orange for 160,000vnd (£4.96) and both are great meals. When we got home, though, I wasn’t too well again and had a bad stomach, I was beginning to wonder if I was just allergic to eating out! It was just typical that I would be ill again when Captain Caveman had the day off tomorrow too.

Phong Nha – 12th April

I was awake at 3.30am on Monday 12th April with terrible indigestion resulting in me having to get out the Maalox. The tannoy was on form at 5.30am for an hour, so by 7am I had done quite a bit of blogging, writing and languages. I had a banana and some strawberries for breakfast and then had another vegan lunch from my Earth Cafe takeaways. This time I tried something which was a first for me; tempeh with green banana and mushrooms. The taste was very different but I really enjoyed it and found it very filling with a piece of fresh baguette. Phuong picked me up at 2.30pm for my ride to The Villas to celebrate a whole week of no alcohol and a couple of days of eating vegan food. Captain Caveman would meet me there after he got out of his Son Doing trip. Even with the shopping trip spending I had been very frugal with the housekeeping this weekend and so I still had 1,000,000vnd (£30) left to splash out on a bottle of wine, even though it was technically Margarita Monday. I decided to have a bottle of white wine with an ice bucket, some soda water and a bowl of peanuts. Captain Caveman arrived, having had an excellent tour group and was drinking the wine a bit too fast. We had a margarita and then the car for Chay Lap arrived. It wasn’t my intention to join Captain Caveman, Dat and Coc for their gala dinner but Nguyen, the head guy of the fertilizer company, invited me and insisted I join for the fish and goat BBQ. Before we sat down for dinner we had a few margaritas at the bar and then we all sat in the garden at a special table. The men from the tour made various speeches about how much they enjoyed their trip and how appreciative of Captain Caveman’s input they were, which was lovely to hear. Captain Caveman did a speech to thank them all and then the lads got even more on the booze than they already were. We ate soup, morning glory with garlic, roast pork, rice crackers with snails, river fish and goat. Coc had made an amazing video of their tour which we watched and applauded at the end. Captain Caveman was drunk and when the group CEO asked for Captain Caveman and I to do a duet love song he desperately needed me to help him out. I’d had 2 margaritas by this time so I told Dat and Coc to load us up Lose Yourself by Eminem and, if I do say so myself, I took one for the team! The group absolutely loved it and then insisted we all sing more, most of the group were great singers and a lot of songs were sang, in the end Captain Caveman had to sing Country Roads, which was then the cue for me to take him home. It had been a great night with the men from Ca Mau, and we now had another place that we wanted to visit when we get chance for a trip down south again. When we got home I set the alarm to make sure Captain Caveman got up in time the next day.

Phong Nha – 11th April

I continued my vegan weekend with the delicious pumpkin soup from Earth Cafe for breakfast on Sunday 11th April, it was raining heavily but at least a bit cooler. Tatas popped over and we started discussing a trip to Danang as Hamish and Ania had invited us both to visit. Hamish had also sent us a few recommendations of where we could stay, including the Bridges Danang Boutique Hotel where they, and Mik, were staying and it looked great value for money. Because my stomach was doing so much better with the vegan diet I decided to pass on the Sunday Dinner at the Phong Nha Farmstay. I did try to book the free shuttle to The Villas to meet Captain Caveman tomorrow afternoon, possibly to enjoy Margarita Monday, but there was only one available at 8.30am which was a bit early for me to start on the booze after a week off it. Instead I booked Phuong at 2.30pm at a cost of 150,000vnd one way so that I could perhaps indulge in a beverage with my man.
I had grapes, a banana and the vegan fried spring rolls from Earth Cafe for lunch and I was feeling really healthy. For dinner I had the pineapple fried rice from Earth Cafe in Dong Hoi and a few strawberries as a treat – they were so good!
After doing a bit of writing and languages I was a bit peckish and decided to try the original flavoured Pringles. I don’t normally eat them because I’m not keen and now I know why. I was so ill after scoffing them, within a few minutes and when I checked how many calories they contain it was ridiculous and I will never eat them again! I lay in bed and finished watching series 4 of Breaking Bad before falling asleep.

Dong Hoi and Phong Nha – 10th April

Phuong, of Phuong’s Transfers, picked me up at 7am on Saturday 10th April for our shopping trip in Dong Hoi. I was feeling much better but didn’t eat anything before the drive there (just in case) and our first stop was to buy Captain Caveman 2 new pairs of porter sandals for work. After being ill I desperately needed more basic provisions and some healthy food so I was looking forward to my trip with Phuong by myself. Our first stop was Co-op Mart which was empty and it took me only 20 minutes to get as much as I could from the list before coming out to a heavy rain shower. We loaded in the bags and went to out next shop, Tuan Gourmet Viet, the security guard helped me by sharing his umbrella and walking with me on the wet slippy marble as he could see my compression bandage on my knee. Since the last time I’d been in this shop the amount of western products had reduced so I didn’t buy as many things as I thought I might but I splashed out on a punnet of strawberries! Our final supermarket visit was the Vin Mart and I go here to get the remaining things the other shops don’t stock but it is generally a bit more expensive than the Co-op. Before 9.30am I had got everything except for popcorn from my list and we were on our way to Earth Cafe for breakfast. Phuong had already nipped off for some eel for his breakfast but did come to join me for a coffee. Mo, the owner, was busy making sure my order was completed because I had decided to order a few dishes from her takeaway menu to help me get back to full health, as well as having the udon soup at the cafe. It had been a very successful shopping trip where I had learned I could be quicker than Captain Caveman and that although the Vincom shopping centre didn’t open until 9am the VinMart supermarket opens at 8am and there is a lift to the first floor. The rain continued to be pretty heavy on the drive back to Phong Nha and when we got back Phuong brought a lot of the shopping in for me.

For my lunch I ate the mushroom vegan burger from Earth cafe, still warm, and it was really good. Then I had a rest before doing a few tasks and eating some peanut M&Ms. For dinner I had more of my Earth cafe takeaway meals with the vegan fresh spring rolls and peanut sauce which are one of my favourites. I’d really enjoyed today, I was out of the woods with being sickly and had a fridge full of lovely, healthy food.

As I had been to 3 supermarkets and bought quite a lot of shopping, I decided to compile a list of my items and the costs. I also made a list of all the takeaway vegan meals I bought at Earth Cafe and their prices too. For info 32,000vnd is equal to £1 and all prices are in Vietnamese Dong.

Co-op Mart
• Carrots 8,352
• Washing up liquid 23,000
• Pringles (sour cream) 29,000
• Pringles (original) 32,200
• Laughing Cow cheese triangles 32,600
• Peanut M&Ms 39,600
• Dragon Fruit 39,859
• Sweetcorn 40,200

Tuan Viet Gourmet
• Tissues 15,000
• Diet coke 18,000
• Gluten free stock cubes 22,000
• Coconut cream 26,000
• Pasta 37,000
• Mushroom pasta sauce 65,000
• Butter 73,000
• Gluten free crackers 105,000
• Gluten free crispbread 105,000
• Strawberries 160,000

VinMart
• Notebook 8,900
• Baguette 9,000
• Bananas 21,800
• Crisps 22,000
• Mushrooms 35,500
• Salami 38,300
• Red peppers 45,000
• Mouthwash 58,500
• Grapes 68,000
• Apples 102,900

Earth Cafe
• Vegan tofu rolls 35,000
• Fried spring rolls 40,000
• Pumpkin soup 45,000
• Pineapple fried rice 45,000
• Vegan spaghetti 50,000
• Braised root vegetables 50,000
• Vegan Burger 50,000
• Tempeh and green banana 70,000

There were no dates or alcohol bought this week and so I got quite a few things, including the transport, for around 2.5 million vnd (£80). Except for the apples, grapes and strawberries (always expensive in Vietnam) was there anything which surprised you?