Christmas Eve Eve can often be more festive than Christmas itself but nothing had prepared me for the level of excitement I would endure on Monday 23rd December! There was no time for wasting on meals, so I had toast with butter for breakfast and just some chestnuts for lunch, as Captain Caveman and I got on with DIY and house stuff because he had only 5 days left until he headed home to Vietnam. In the evening Sarah needed our help with a pompom rug that had now become urgent but, for those of you who know me well, I hate anything even remotely arts and crafts! We went to Jiks in the rain to meet her and get a drink and dinner – I had steak (the first I’ve had there) as I was starving and it was good. Once we had eaten Captain Caveman calculated the size of the rug and I was dragged in to tying pompoms on to the matting while she made more. As if the task couldn’t have been any more painful but then a woman, who Sarah knew, came to check what we were doing and tell me I was doing it wrong! If the rug wasn’t a Christmas present for Jamie I wouldn’t have helped but I knew she was struggling to finish on time. We left after that with it half done and leaving Sarah with the ‘helpful’ woman. We were looking forward to a nice and quiet Christmas Eve to be honest.

The weekend before Christmas was not festive for us here in Dalyan and the sun was mostly out despite it getting a bit colder in the evenings now.
On Friday 20th December Captain Caveman, Sarah and I set off nice and early for a shopping trip in Ortaca and Fethiye where we bought stuff for the apartment, including a bargain rug from Madame Coco and some dye to change the colour of some of our beige and pale blue throws. There was a great place called English Home which we got new sofa throws from and I noticed there was a cinema.
We had a treat for lunch with a KFC (I took the batter and skin off) which I really enjoyed – especially the huge tub of sweetcorn.
In the evening we had drinks at Lukka, Jiks and then a meal at China Town. I’ve not been this year because even though they do gluten free food I’ve been ill from food there in the past. I had chicken tikka, Captain Caveman had a biryani and Sarah had 2 chinese dishes. It tasted good but wasn’t as good as Spice Garden and it was cold and draughty sat near the window.

On Saturday (21st December) I was still suffering with a bad back and so Captain Caveman went dogging without me and I went to Sarah’s and then to a friend’s house to collect some unwanted books – I got plenty and now we have a good stash ready for our rental guests when they come. Captain Caveman and I went to Jiks where I had a chicken casserole for a late lunch and Sarah came to join us.
In the evening I had a bad stomach and so we stayed in and had an early night. We also thought it was our anniversary but it turns out it was a day later.

We woke up and congratulated each other (again) on our 8 year anniversary on Sunday 22nd December. Captain Caveman made me a gluten free bacon sandwich and I also had some chestnuts and Turkish delight as a top up when I got peckish.
We met Maddie, who’s family was visiting, and had our first lunch (this year) at Heybe’s. My jacket potato with bolognese and cheese was excellent and Captain Caveman enjoyed his Sunday lunch before I left them to it and headed off for another back massage at BC Spa with Khatuna. I was tender afterwards and so we stayed in and Captain Caveman made us a lovely pasta dish with bacon and pesto – you could tell he’d found the ‘international’ shop.
We had promised Sarah who was desperate to get us to visit the Sky Lounge that we would go out and so we ventured for a couple of white russians – they were expensive but very good!

As I’m no longer in Dalyan I can look back and rate the restaurants and cafes in and around the town to be some of the best – many people will say it’s hard to get a bad meal in Dalyan. So I’ve knocked up a list of my favourite 20 (more difficult than I thought it would be) based on the following criteria: price, quality, service, staff, choice, food, location, cleanliness, views, toilet facilities and if able to eat a gluten free meal. I’ve not put them in any particular order as it would be impossible to rank these amazing places.

1. Lukka Bar – this place is great for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It has various event evenings throughout the year which I enjoyed and the staff are very helpful. The bar is clean and the toilet facilities up to scratch. This place is everything you need whether you’re a local, expat or holiday maker.

2. Soul Kitchen – one of my absolute favourites for breakfast or a pre-dinner drink. Such a great welcoming cafe style eatery in a perfect location for a sunset. I cannot fault this place.

3. Ekin – an ideal place for breakfast by the water with lots of photo opportunities. It’s a car/taxi journey out of Dalyan but is worth the short journey. Service is quick and the food quality top notch.

4. Jiks – the lady who cooks here is fantastic, simple food made with love and always consistently good at great prices. Open all year too and ideal for any meal or drink.

5. Rendezvous – this place serves my all time favourite dish of crispy belly pork, has an excellent chef who will cater for dietary requirements and has a clean modern look that is welcoming. It’s also open all year round too and is ideal for dinner.

6. River House – I discovered this to be one of the best places this year as it’s a new one. The risotto is fantastic, the staff friendly, service excellent and they do a lovely carafe of wine. Open all year round and with views of the river it gets my vote!

7. Kordon – the owner here will go out of his way to meet dietary requirements for any meal and is really welcoming. The food is superb and choice vast, my favourites are the steak, chicken shish and the side of beetroot. The location by the river is great and it’s also open all year round.

8. Yakamoz – the location of eating by the river with views of the tombs takes some beating. The steak and salads are of the best I’ve eaten in Dalyan and I love the relaxed way of the staff there. The toilets are good and the food quality and choice is high. My favourite for a lunch or early dinner during the spring and summer season.

9. Backyard No9 – this amazed me and has probably the best WC in Dalyan. While the food has limited gluten free choices the drinks and location make up for it. It has a relaxing garden for warm days and nights or a small cozy indoor restaurant for colder months. The staff are lovely too.

10. Bistro Blue – a firm favourite for our whole family we visit this place for breakfast, lunch, dinner, just drinks or to throw some shapes to the fab music. The owners and staff are warm and welcoming and the cocktails and food choices are of the best in town.

11. Ramazan Han – in my opinion this is the best place in Dalyan for steak! I also love their garlic king prawns and the aubergine dishes. Choice is plentiful, it gets busy in summer so book for dinner or get in early.

12. Bistro Clou – ideal for lunch and while the location is next to a carpark the delicious food soon makes you forget the view. I love the mezzes here and the specials board usually has good, reasonably priced options on.

13. Adilan – ideal for lunch or dinner and the owner’s recommendations for food or drinks are always spot on. The jacket potato which accompanies some dishes is fantastic and the prices here are reasonable for good quality. Always a favourite of mine and not open in the winter.

14. Serendip – if you would like to try something a bit different then this cafe is a welcome addition to Dalyan. The homemade vegetarian menu is amazing and the wine is excellent. I was very impressed with the mixed mezze plate and the cheeseboard.

15. Okyanus – this year I think this place has improved so much. It’s a great location, next to the river and its traditional Turkish food is delicious. Ideal for lunch time drinks with friends too.

16. Yummy’s – the owner has a really great way about her and is passionate about what is served to your plate. I liked the breakfasts and the salads the best but be warned, the portions are big!

17. Caunos Antic – I only got to try this place once before it closed but the dinner we had with family was excellent. Ideal for dinner and the starters were particularly tasty as well as the staff being really efficient and attentive.

18. M-Eatery – this is not the cheapest place in town but you certainly get what you pay for. The food choice and quality is good, allergies can be accommodated easily and they have funky crockery too. The toilet is great and the wine list ideal.

19. Yener’s Place – the best gluten free pizza in town! Nothing is too much trouble for dietary requirements and they will be very thorough with your order. All of the food is good and the service excellent.

20. Bakery No10 – this place has been my saviour this year. The only decent gluten free bread I have ever had in Turkey!! The owner is an amazing baker and her cakes are out of this world delicious. She also does normal homemade bread and cakes too.

Of course these are just my top 20, I could go on but I won’t. This year I had a list which I didn’t even finish in 4 months (and I eat out a lot) so maybe take a chance and try some you’ve not been to before.

We had decided to hold a movie night on Monday 16th December so we had the man round to fix the TV to the wall – I couldn’t watch I was so nervous he would drop it. Captain Caveman went to beer club and I found myself locked in. I was due at the hairdresser’s when I had a funny feeling to check the work of the same handyman, who had put netting on the gate/door to stop the street cats coming up the stairs. He’d only attached it to the inside so that I couldn’t open it and so I had to have Captain Caveman come back to open it from the outside!
I had my hair done by the lovely Emrah then I chose the movie for later. We would watch 6 Underground on Netflix and Sarah was invited round for a roast chicken dinner, cooked by Captain Caveman. The film was good and we all enjoyed it with a few glasses of wine.

We had breakfast at Gölbaşı on Tuesday 17th December and it was the first time Captain Caveman had been and my first breakfast there – it was impressive. We then drove to Dalaman and for lunch we called in to the prison. This time I ordered döner meat with normal rice and salad while Captain Caveman had an egg pide. For the 2 of us with drinks it came to about £6 and the food and service is so good.
We did a bit of shopping in Ortaca before heading back home where we stayed in and had leftover chicken with salad for dinner.

It was hard to believe that Christmas day was only a week away as we got up early for dogging on Wednesday 18th December. It was a good day and I had a massage in the afternoon at BC Spa because I had pulled a muscle and was a bit sore. In the evening we met up with Sarah for a trip to Balıkcım, I don’t usually eat fish but I plumped for a filleted sea bream and it was very nice. Captain Caveman went for meatballs and he enjoyed them, as well as us sharing the mezzes and wine.

While Captain Caveman was fit enough for bumming, on Thursday 19th December, I was back in BC spa being pummeled to within an inch of my life. Khatuna, the masseuse, also identified the problem area and told me I wasn’t drinking enough water – I knew that already!
In the afternoon we were booked in for a pedicure with my Dalyan friend, Vanessa, and we had a good nattter, matching polish and a cheeky drink in Jiks. Captain Caveman and I also stayed in Jiks for dinner (well, it would be rude not to and we hadn’t much in at home). It was good to see Vanessa as I’d not seen that much of her this year and she was off back home for Christmas.
We had a relatively tame evening as we had a full day of it booked in for the next day as well as a busy weekend!

I really enjoyed my sourdough with cheese spread for breakfast on Saturday 14th December before we headed off for a spot of dogging in the rain! By the time we finished walking the dogs I was absolutely soaked – Captain Caveman had his waterproofs on so was fine.
Back home I had a cheese sandwich for lunch and we went to the market for fresh produce in a bit of a downpour. I’d seen a TV for sale on a local Facebook page so we decided to go to look at it but it was a bit out of Dalyan and the seller wasn’t able to accurately describe where his house was. By the time we eventually tracked him down there was a massive storm and we had been past about 6 times.
When we got home we unpacked our exciting new TV only to find that they hadn’t given us the instructions and the remote so Captain Caveman had to go back! I took photos of the old one and got it advertised only to have a potential buyer booked in for the next morning at 10am. We celebrated with a glass of wine and arranged for a handyman to come put it on the wall on Monday. We ate a spaghetti bolognese at home and then went to meet Sarah at Jazz bar, where Captain Caveman nodded off while the band was on and we were chatting.

It was the winter fayre at Köyceğiz on Sunday 15th December and I had agreed to join Sarah on Captain Boris’s boat trip while Captain Caveman used his new drill on some erections and the DIY IKEA assembling.
The boat trip was great, cold at first but then the sun came out and by lunchtime it was t-shirt weather again. We had a lunch by the river followed by a glass of wine at a bar. Of course we had a mooch around the fayre but I only bought a jar of cranberry sauce while Sarah got herself a new hat.
There was rather a lot of mulled wine left so Sarah and I ended up a bit sloshed, met Captain Caveman in Lukka for a drink where Maddie and Bianca joined us before we all trotted off for a lovely dinner at Rendezvous – I just love the crispy belly pork there (served gluten free style).

Having said goodbye to Lexi the previous evening we were still up early on Wednesday 11th December to set off for our little roadtrip to Izmir and Ephesus just for a couple of days. Armed with a list of IKEA items Captain Caveman drove from Dalyan towards Izmir but neither of us had eaten breakfast so had to stop for a snack on the way. We lunched at IKEA after a massive walk round the place – I hate shopping! The food was very cheap but the beef meatballs had gluten in so I spent a lot more time than I would have liked in the loo and have decided I’m not a fan of the square toilet seat. We managed to buy a boot and a backseat full of IKEA stuff before going to Emen hotel in Izmir. It was really lovely and in the evening we ate at a small Turkish restaurant round the corner where I had lentil soup, salad and a chicken shish. We didn’t even have any alcohol that day!

On Thursday 12th December we skipped the hotel breakfast and headed towards Ephesus calling for a pitstop on the way, as well as stopping off to buy Captain Caveman a multipocketed waistcoat (for aeroplane travel when he has limited luggage allowance), and a drill. Ephesus was great and we could have spent more time there had we not got there quite late. In the evening we stayed in a cute little B&B in Selçuk (called Nica) where all eating establishments appeared to be closed so we ended up back at the restaurant next door where we enjoyed a feast!

Before we drove back to Dalyan on Friday 13th December (we had to get the car back by 5pm) we had a leisurely breakfast of cheese, jam, honey and olives for me then went to visit the museum a few doors down the street. It was impressive but the weather wasn’t great and we decided to head back early. On the way back we bought some groceries including some gluten free sourdough from a bigger Migros supermarket than we have in Dalyan. I ate some with cheese spread as soon as we got home and then got ready for another birthday night out. The guy from Dalyan Window Cleaning and the apartment cleaners had been in while we were away and the place looked really nice. Captain Caveman had to unload the car in the rain but then he decided to keep the car for another week. We met Maddie and Bianca in Lukka before heading to Spice Garden for dinner. The buffet wasn’t on so we ordered from the normal menu and it actually worked out cheaper and it was a great night.

After cherry jam (bought from the prison) on gluten free toast for breakfast I looked after Lexi while Captain Caveman went to Ortaca to sort out the communal electric bills. We then had a second breakfast at Jiks while the window man looked round the apartment to give a quote for the windows cleaning (some of which involved getting on the roof).
We ate brunch in the sun and then Captain Caveman had Beer Club to attend while Lexi and I tried out more selfie taking and sent photos to her new owner.
We met back up at Soul Kitchen over wine and then he had to go help a beer club member catch an old dog who had an offer of a home. I was just about to leave when Maddie came by, shortly joined by VLS and then Bianca. We ended up having more wine, met the kind Turkish man who feeds the street dogs salami every day and then ended up going to Amy’s and Jiks for more drinks. I decided I needed food so Captain Caveman and I headed to Rendezvous with Lexi, but the customers in there wouldn’t let us in with a dog so we ended up back at Jiks where I had chicken and chips. I also had agreed to meet Maddie and Bianca at Lukka bar at 10am the next morning for breakfast!

Captain Caveman woke me up on Tuesday 10th December with not long to get ready if we were to meet people at Lukka bar for breakfast. I was hungover and really had to pull myself together to get there for 10:30am where I had an English breakfast, hoping it would sort me out before our day out.
Maddie was also late and hungover and it was her birthday so we went to the mudbaths. This week it wasn’t too sunny though and, because they heard us speak English, we were charged 20 lira for a beer (oddly a double measure of vodka with sprite was only 30 lira). We had a nice time and Lexi enjoyed it again and wasn’t phased when heavy rain came.
Having been rained off we headed back and after showers to get rid of the sulphur smells we were back at Lukka bar to meet the rest of Maddie’s friends for birthday drinks and food – we were meant to go to Okyanus but because it was still raining we holed up in Lukka and were still there when the evening lot arrived so we had our dinner there before the quiz. After the quiz we said our goodbyes to Lexi as Süleyman was able to caretake while we headed off to Izmir and Ephesus for a few days – he would kindly hand Lexi over to the foster people.

On Friday 6th December, after a breakfast at home, we decided to check out the mezzes at Dalyance as we had heard they were cheap however we didn’t realise dogs aren’t allowed inside so we had a table outside in the sun instead and I had a burger and chips without the bun while Captain Caveman had a steak and cheese toastie. Mine was good and I got a free Turkish tea at the end but then we left so that Captain Caveman could get to Beer club. Friday night was meant to be girls night but it wasn’t going ahead so we stayed home and had chicken salad for dinner and no alcohol, for a change. The next day we had arranged for a trip out with friends which we were looking forward to.

A week in to December and some of my countdowns had started and it wasn’t that long until friends were arriving and Captain Caveman was leaving!
On Saturday 7th December it was my turn to go dogging while Captain Caveman looked after Lexi. It was a busy morning and we didn’t get to walk nearly as many dogs as I would have liked. Back home I had a quick shower and then joined the others (and Lexi) in the car for our short roadtrip.
When we arrived at DAC restaurant at Dalaman prison, unaware that dogs were not allowed either in or out door eating areas, I was ravenous, especially after the dogging session. I sat in the (very nice) smoking area with Lexi while the others went ahead and ordered. She would not be quiet and cried until Captain Caveman’s return and then I had my turn to go inside. The food was nice and very cheap and I was very jealous of all the bread products and dessert my companions were eating, while I ate chicken and onions. The staff are all inmates and the place runs like clockwork, it even has a shop where we bought Turkish delight and jam!
We felt sorry for Lexi so on the way back we all made a stop off at Backyard No.9 for her to run around. In the evening we popped to Jiks for wine and dinner and I tried a new chocolate bar which resembles a Snickers.

Captain Caveman had an arrangement on Sunday 8th December to go over to a mates to use his tools to shorten some shelves so I looked after Lexi. In the afternoon we went to Backyard No.9 again and this time ate food there. In the evening Captain Caveman cooked a nice Sunday dinner then we tidied up for the window man coming on Monday morning.

The first couple of days in December were fairly easy going as we both tried to make the most of looking after a dog. On Sunday 1st December we decided to take Lexi to the Çalış Winter fayre, accompanied by our dogging friend, Jane. Because I thought I might not get food I doubled up on breakfast, having both gluten free cornflakes and gluten free toast. The journey was about an hour and when we arrived Jane went for a look around the stalls while we took Lexi for a walk on the beach, which she loved. For lunch we found a great little cafe with a table in the sun so we could have a glass of wine, there was also a chicken kebab stall in front which we managed to get without the bread for me and was lovely. On the way back we stopped off for a wander round Göcek and then back home Jane gave us some grapefruits from her tree. She was off back to the UK and so we said our goodbyes and I walked back with Lexi, while Captain Caveman went home. In the evening we had chicken and salad then went to Lukka bar where we had already missed the Grand Prix but still managed to see some highlights and share a bottle of red wine.

Even Monday 2nd December was calm as we had breakfast, lunch and dinner at home. I looked after Lexi while Captain Caveman went to a beer club he had joined with some Dalyan dwellers. That night we had some chestnuts while sat on the sofa and Lexi tried carrot but didn’t take to it. We had an early night and were ready for a busy Tuesday.

Captain Caveman decided we were off to the mudbaths on Tuesday 3rd December and so we got up, had breakfast at home and took Lexi with us. She watched the seagulls, got concerned when Captain Caveman jumped in the lake and still didn’t know where to look for a selfie. We took it in turns to watch the dog or go in the hot pools and it was a lovely hot day, until the sun went in and I came out to find it was chilly – Captain Cavemen was fully dressed and he and Lexi were ready to go home for a late lunch. Cheese on toast was eaten at home and Captain Caveman excelled himself with a wild mushroom risotto for dinner. The evening was spent at the Lukka quiz with friends and we shared just one bottle of wine.

I looked after Lexi while Captain Caveman had a bit of a jolly on Wednesday 4th December. After breakfast at home he went dogging then he went with Murat from Volkan Adventures, a local tour company, to test out a potential new tour for 2020. Murat had asked me but as it was a horse riding tour I had volunteered Captain Caveman – I’m not in to horses.
For lunch I ate chestnuts, figs and Turkish delight and Lexi was a bit sad because she wanted Captain Caveman to come back. On his return Lexi and I met him at Soul Kitchen and he reported back that the new Volkan horseriding tours looked to be really good and another great option for holidaymakers (or Dalyan dwellers) wanting to get out and about, doing something a bit different. We had a quick drink at Lukka while our jacket potatoes cooked at home then went home to have bolognese with them and just a glass of wine indoors.

On Thursday 5th December it was my turn again to look after Lexi and source items from IKEA (for the apartment) while Captain Caveman went bumming. We arranged to meet friends for drinks and lunch at Nehir Restaurant where they had specials on offer and wine or beer for only 15 lira – we embraced the offers and had a few. When we left it was still sunny so we called in to River Terrace for a cider in the sun.
In the evening we stayed in and had Turkish delight, figs, and gluten free spaghetti bolognese!

On Friday 29th November I had been invited to the local girls night out and had accepted so Captain Caveman and I went for a light and cheap lunch at a place that always seemed to be closed when we went past. Çiçek had been recommended by followers of a Dalyan Facebook group I’m a member of and was serving a selection of dishes which we selected from the kitchen area and they were brought over.
We had chicken stew, spinach, meatballs with potatoes and cold drinks – the food was undoubtedly great and traditional Turkish at its best as well as being a great price.
In the afternoon Captain Caveman and I called to Backyard No9 again with Lexi but it was closed so we had a drink in the Rock Bar. We had a drink in Lukka Bar where I met one of the girls before heading over to Casa Nova for a drink and to meet the others. Our meal at Spice Garden, an Indian restaurant, was brilliant and the buffet was 80 lira for an all you can eat. They do very good gluten free choices, the wine is nice and the place is nice and warm. Jamie was missing a good night out but we kept a chair for him at his request!! I also got to meet some of the girls on a more sociable basis which was good fun.

November was ending and the time was going so fast! On Saturday the 30th I had been in Turkey 3 months and we were starting week 13 already. Breakfast was with Captain Caveman at Soul Kitchen where we had our usual of potato skins and baked beans for me and menemen for him. There was a protest being held at the beach so Captain Caveman and some Dalyan dwellers went, taking Lexi, while I went dogging by myself.
For lunch I had figs and cheese on gluten free toast before heading to the market to buy our fresh vegetables for the week, on the way back we had an afternoon wine and cheese at Soul Kitchen. In the evening we ate at home – a chicken salad and a couple of gins! Inspired by our Russian lodger we had decided to try a budget week to see if we could survive on 500 lira (about £70) for the week!

The next couple of days were a little bit harder work than they needed to be, really – mainly due to the dogsitting and having house guests who were now staying on our floor for a bit longer, due to the weather.
On Monday 25th November I stuck to my gluten free cornflakes while the other 3 in the house had omelettes and fresh bread. By lunchtime Captain Caveman and I had taken Lexi for a walk and due to it looking like rain we decided to try a lunch at Casa Nova restaurant. It was empty and we had a table inside, by the huge window with impressive views. The food was really good and the service had vastly improved since the previous year so we were happy.
I also picked up my residency card, which means I no longer have to carry my passport with me at all times and can stay here (or come and go as I please) until 4th November 2020.
In the evening we ate at home again, the four of us plus Google translate, and had spaghetti bolognese.

On Tuesday 26th November our guests had decided to walk Lexi for us, so being free from responsibility Captain Caveman and I popped in to Dalyan and then headed to Jiks for lunch. I decided to try the chicken with honey and it was a bit odd but I ate it and tasted a bit creamy, along with 2 glasses of wine.
I got more gluten free bread and some treats from Bakery No10 and we had more wine before heading back home for bolognese with jacket potatoes and a Russian cabbage dish on the side. As it was their last night we all had cake (gluten free) and an early night as they were keen to set off early.

After six nights of sleeping on the floor in Captain Caveman’s apartment our house guests were back on their cycling mission. On Wednesday 27th November the weather was better and after breakfast they packed up and headed off to Fethiye (it’s 60km by car through the tunnel so they would need to go the alternative route which is longer). Lexi also came to say her goodbyes as she had made friends and was curious about the bicycles.
Later we (I) ate the rest of the gluten free cake and for lunch we had a leisurely meal at River House, sat in the sun with a drink. I had a fantastic mushroom risotto and 2 glasses of white wine. Captain Caveman’s burger looked good and the meal was very reasonably priced. It’s definitely one of my new favourites.
In the evening we enjoyed having our home back to ourselves and we finished the rest of of the delicious chicken soup for dinner.

I took my turn of looking after Lexi while Captain Caveman went bumming on Thursday 28th November. I had breakfast of gluten free toast with fig jam and cheese while Lexi had one of Bill’s biscuits.
After a walk I took Lexi to the tea gardens to meet the Riverbums when they returned from their morning’s work. It was a sunny day so we sat around and had a beer before Captain Caveman and I took a walk to Backyard No 9 for lunch. Lexi loved it there as she could be let off the lead and play with Dora (the resident dog) and other visiting dogs too while we ate delicious food and drank great wine. They don’t do gluten free food so I had a burger with no bun while Captain Caveman had a lovely pizza. The people running the place are very nice and the service is really good too so we stayed a bit longer than we thought we might before heading back for ‘one’ at Lukka. It turned in to a bit of a night out and we even ate at Lukka (you really can’t go wrong with our local)!

The weekend became a little unplanned and different to how we might generally spend it, on account we had a dog to look after and we now had guests for a couple of nights. On Friday 22nd November our guests had decided they would cook our dinner that evening and so we had a walk with Lexi and then went off to get some shopping. We called in to BC Spa to look at the price list as the rainy weather was ideal to book in for an hour or two, but they were on a very tight budget. The guests were finding it expensive in Dalyan and so they preferred to eat at home while Captain Caveman and I ate lunch at Jiks and I bumped in to Sarah and Jamie who forced me to drink extra wines with them. Back home our guests had made a tasty homemade chicken soup and I tried to speak a bit of Russian. The two of them were supposed to be heading off on the rest of their cycling journey the next day but rain was forecast and I caught a mention of them perhaps staying another night (or two). You can read more about our house guests on Facebook here: https://www.facebook.com/SimboBenbo/

Saturday 23rd November was meant to be the day of the Dalyan Winter fayre but had to be postponed until the next day, due to the bad weather. After a breakfast of gluten free cornflakes I took Lexi for a walk while the other three went dogging at the shelter (photos by Captain Caveman). In the afternoon we decided to go to Lukka for lunch while our visitors went for a walk to Kaunos as it had fined up a bit. We tried to locate a Russian or a Russian speaking person in Dalyan but with no luck. In the evening Captain Caveman cooked a beef stew for the 4 of us and I attempted to learn more Russian.

It was the Dalyan Winter Fayre on Sunday 24th December and so I made sure I had some breakfast of gluten free cornflakes with milk and a bit of cheese while Captain Caveman and the guests had omelettes and coffee. At the fayre Captain Caveman was running the Splash game while I flitted about the doggy people’s stalls with Lexi in tow. She loved it and got lots of treats to eat as well as me buying her some of Bill’s homemade chicken skin biscuits – I was quite tempted to try one myself when I realised there was not anything edible at the fayre which was gluten free. In the end I was hungry so I had a hotdog and ate the onions and a tiny bit of the sausage meat before passing it on to Captain Caveman who finished it, as well as his own. I also chanced a beer – it’s so shit going to events when you can’t have gluten and everyone is tucking in when you’re hungry!
In the afternoon we went to Lukka Bar for some proper food and I had a halloumi salad. It was also my ‘new friend’ Jamie’s last day and we wanted to give him a good send off before he got his flight home,via Istanbul. Our guests were still here and had made us a chicken curry and rice for tea followed by a dessert of Turkish Delight, figs and fresh bergamot tea. The weather forecast looked bad for the next few days so Captain Caveman agreed they could stay until it was fine enough to continue their cycling expedition.

There was no time for breakfast on Monday (18th November) morning as I was being picked up at 06:30am for a drive to Muğla. I was stood outside prompt (a little hungover) and it was a bit chilly and still dark when Leanne from King Emlak arrived. The drive was quicker than expected and so we stopped off at a cafe where I had a couple of teas and gawped at all the amazing gluten offerings they had. My residency meeting was at 8:30am and we had to wait in a corridor with all the prepared documents.
The appointment didn’t last long, they checked all my paperwork and took my fingerprints (all of them) on a machine. No questions were asked and they gave me some paperwork which said I now had a 1 year residency in Turkey. It was a bit of a relief as it meant I could continue my 4 month stay here without having to leave the country. I could also come and go as much as I liked between now and the 4th November 2020.
To celebrate we had lunch at Jiks where I had to have a couple of soda waters before my chicken shish on account of having no breakfast. I managed a glass of red wine with my lunch though. We had a stroll and another drink at Amy’s too. On Mondays a lot of places take their day off and although we had planned to go out we decided to stay in. I enjoyed some wine gums (brought by Captain Caveman’s parents), a red wine and some really nice onion soup with cheese on gluten free toast. Overall a successful Monday!

On Tuesday 19th November, while Captain Caveman tootled off to the mudbaths for the day, I took Lexie to the vets in Ortaca with Hilary. She was very well behaved and we also got to say goodbye to Jilly who was being adopted from the shelter too. I didn’t really eat much (gluten free toast with fig jam, yogurt with honey, a bit of cheese and some wine gums) before going to the Tuesday quiz at Lukka with Sarah, Arif and Jamie. I had the (gluten free) fish and chips washed down with a bit too much wine and we had a right old laugh at the quiz. We even managed to learn some rude Turkish words!! Jamie and Sarah brought snacks and we didn’t win but enjoyed it – even Lexie had some attention, meeting other dogs in the area.

While Captain Caveman went dogging on Wednesday 20th November I took Lexie to Köşem Restaurant to help with preparations for the forthcoming winter fayre. Lexie wasn’t too keen on it but she got lots of fuss off dogs, cats and other helpers. I put trees up while others decorated them (after last year where I was told I was shit at decoration).
For lunch Captain Caveman and I went to Okyanus, a place which hadn’t impressed last year, but turned out to be a great little spot. Our food was lovely, the sun was shining and Lexi got on well with the resident dogs and cats there. Jamie (our new friend) came to join us and I’m blaming him for being a bad influence because then we ended up having one at Soul Kitchen before ‘going for one’ at Lukka. Sarah joined us and we had a bit of a boozey night but luckily I was looking forward to having a loll about on Thursday.

Captain Caveman went bumming while I looked after Lexi on Thursday 21st November. I was hungover and felt like death and didn’t do much apart from feel sorry for myself and be glad I wasn’t bumming!
Captain Caveman came home and we were planning the rest of the day when the doorbell rang. An English friend of Captain Caveman’s and a Russian girl were at the door, and were coming to stay for a couple of days. They were currently cycling long distance, him raising money for charity along the way. I, in my hungover state, had completely forgotten all about what day it was and that they could be arriving. Captain Caveman was well aware but had still not acquired a bed for the spare room so they were going to have to sleep on the floor!
I was starving and wanted lunch so we went to Pamukkale Restaurant, only to find they were only serving pide and pizza – I was gutted! I would love nothing more than to eat the sucuk pide but instead they were able to rustle me up some chips. I was still hungry when I got home so I had crisps, carrot and hummus as a snack.

The Riverbums have been going for 7 years and so we had been invited to an anniversary party at Nazo’s. Of course we had only been part of the ‘bumming team for a relatively short time. The steer was we all brought a dish each and then we share the buffet. I took havla (a sweet treat made with tahini which I bought from the shop). Captain Caveman took a whole roast chicken which he’d had in the oven that morning and was still warm when he carried down the street.
Nazo’s is a lovely bar with a great garden area out the back and a big dog who really wanted some buffet. We even got a medal and a certificate for volunteering with the Riverbums which were given out earlier in the year but we were in Vietnam.
At the buffet I ate chicken, yogurt, carrot, radish and crisps for my first lot before having 2 pieces of gluten free cake which was delicious. I also managed to have 3 red wines and a laugh with our fellow Bummers.
In the evening we went to a restaurant we had really enjoyed last year but had not being able to visit this year before it closed. M-Eatery was now reopened for the winter and had a lovely fire to keep warm inside. I had baba ganoush for starter and had a little bit of Captain Caveman’s halloumi then the beef with chips and red cabbage which was so good and, of course, we shared a bottle of red wine.

By lunchtime on Saturday 16th November we had already entered in to a different kind of day. After my usual breakfast of gluten free toast and a bit of cheese Captain Caveman and I went up to the dog shelter for a bit of dogging. We walked a few dogs and then I gave Lexi a bath because she was leaving the shelter and had very muddy paws. We had agreed to look after Lexi until she was ready to go and pretty soon she was going to live in Scotland.
As it was Saturday night we decided to take our new friend, Lexi, to the local to meet our friends. We also were the designated welcome party for Sarah and Katrina’s mate, Jamie who was landing in Dalyan about 9:30pm and we were all looking forward to his arrival.
Jamie arrived at Lukka bar straight off the plane, practically, and so we were already merry and had a great night – my face hurt from laughing so much!

On Sunday 17th I ate my gluten free cornflakes and had an earl grey tea and we took Lexi for a walk. We had already booked in for Sunday lunch at Lukka bar and so we ended up getting on it again at 5pm, then staying to watch the Brazilian Grand Prix from 8pm. I only had 4 red wines but I think it could have been a top up from the previous night. I couldn’t get too pissed as I had a very important appointment on Monday morning but we were having such a good laugh it didn’t really matter.

We had a fun day on Tuesday 12th November. There’s a boat which goes every Tuesday to the mud baths so we decided to get on that and I chose to take my breakfast of gluten free toast with mulberry jam with me in tin foil. Unfortunately it went soggy so I only ate a little of it and fed the fishes with the rest. We had a hot drink at Okyanus while we waited for the boat and then off we went on the boat across to Köyceğiz lake. We left at 10:30am and then had until 2:30pm to go in the hot pool, the mud bath, the dome pool or swim in the lake. We did all of them except the mud and I even had the fish feet thing to get rid of my dead skin – 6 minutes was enough! It was a great day out and really cheap and I was already looking forward to going again.
In the afternoon we decided to buy some furniture from a woman on Facebook who happened to be singing at Mico Hotel before getting ready for fish and chips at the Lukka bar quiz in the evening.

I was meant to eat more for breakfast on Wednesday, 13th November, as I would need my energy for a bit of dogging! I ended up having gluten free cornflakes with milk before heading off to the shelter on foot while Captain Caveman cycled. We had a good morning of walking as many dogs as we could but as the amount of visitors declines in winter months there were some who didn’t get one. There was also a couple of dogs getting adopted including an older dog who had been in the shelter a while. There was talk of some further adoptions but as we left, the charity workers were arguing with the staff about not giving as much care and attention as they should. On the way home Captain Caveman lost his house keys and I had a message from a Dalyan dweller who was buying us some bedding at IKEA, to tell me all the codes were incorrect. Captain Caveman went back to the shelter only to find that his keys had fallen out of his pocket in the puppy kennels!
Back home I had a quick lunch of yogurt and honey as the carpenter’s were back to finish off some last bits on the fitted wardrobes. We left them to it and headed off for a cheeky drink at Jiks. Luckily the IKEA lady came good in the end (the product numbers are not the same in every country) and we got the stuff for our new bed, which we picked up in Lukka bar over a glass of wine (of course).
Dinner was at River House which turned out to be another one of my new favourites. The starter of garlic mushrooms was great and the chicken risotto main was superb! Captain Caveman had the mantı dish (a traditional dumpling which looks like pasta containing minced meat and served with yogurt and butter), the carafe of wine was smooth and went down well.
When we got home we admired the new wardrobes and I was even happy with where the mirror (which should have been on the wardrobes but I didn’t like it) had ended up. Fire Opal B6 was starting to look how we wanted it to and we were happy to have the work completed at last.

The rain came down quite heavy during the early hours of Thursday 14th November, bumming was cancelled because of the weather forecast. I had 2 small gluten free chocolate cakes as well as gluten free toast with mulberry jam and an earl gray tea for breakfast. I managed to order minced beef at the butcher’s in Turkish so that we could have a spaghetti bolognese that evening. Captain Caveman’s task of the day was to help the dog shelter out by making leads and fixing some old ones. By 11am the rain had eased off but the sky looked like it still might rain again later. It was a quiet day and very relaxing, which made a nice change.