Dalyan – 29th September

Dalyan – 29th September

I woke up at 7.30am on Wednesday 29th September and had cornflakes for breakfast. Captain Caveman sent me messages saying I am confirmed fully vaccinated on the Vietnamese app now, but of course the app doesn’t work in Turkey so no matter what I tried I can’t access the details, which will include a QR code and a batch number for each jab. The good news was that Vietnam will recognise vaccinations from Turkey and UK now so if I could get 2 more vaccines that would be good. Captain Caveman also informed me that in the week since I had left Vietnam there still hadn’t been any positive cases in our village, Khuong Ha. Captain Caveman and I discussed making some alterations to the kitchen in the Dalyan apartment so I sent him some photos so he could give it some thought for ideas. I also sent him photos of the pergola that I think we need to get replaced, another thing I added to my list to find out more about. I did lots more washing up, lots of things in cupboards were still dirty and I decided to make a chicken curry in the slow cooker. At 11am I went over to my parents’ place to meet the gardener for the key, and to check the apartment. I checked the place out which, apart from being a bit dusty, was fine and took loads of photos to send to my mom. Next I walked home the long way round so I could call at the bakery. I walked past a house where Jimmy, the dog, used to be in the garden but he wasn’t there and neither was the kennel or fence. I bought a loaf and 2 simits at the bakery which came to 7 lira (70p) and went home to add cheese and olives to my purchases for lunch.

In the afternoon I had been invited to Casablanca hotel by Maddie for food, drinks and live music from Onur. In attendance were the usual suspects; Jamie, Ann, Jax, Sarah, Süleyman, Annie, Peter, Maddie, Angela and Nick plus there were a few other people including Hannah and a bloke called Adam wearing a Vietnam T-Shirt! I had a few beers, 2 plates of food, listened to some great tunes and had a full tour of the lovely hotel. It was a really civilised afternoon, the staff are great, the food was a delicious Turkish spread which we helped ourselves to – I even ran out of plate by the time I got to the home made chips. Jamie ‘insisted’ on us all having a Mr G cocktail, which I must admit are somewhat moreish and that’s when normality kicked back in.

A few of us decided to go in to town for more drinks at Aşkin’s bar, so I nipped home to turn off my curry, Annie and Jamie went to get a shower but me, Ann and Jax went as we were, thinking we were just going for one! Of course it turned in to one of those nights, drinking until 10.30pm, even having a glass of wine and some terrible cheese at Sofra bar with Rebecca, her mom and Jamie’s neighbours. We couldn’t work out if Peter was wearing a pink or orange shirt but we did a test at the clothes shops on the main shopping street, we decided he was wearing coral! It was a good night and I slept well!

Dalyan – 28th September

Dalyan – 28th September

The sunrise was at 7.20am on Tuesday 28th September and I took a photo out of my bedroom window to send to Captain Caveman, he sent one back and told me he was off round to Stu’s house today. I decided to scrub more of the kitchen stuff and ended up throwing away one of the pans that had the old oil in it, it was like jelly and glue mixed together and it was taking ages to even loosen up, it must have been in the oven, wedged in to a baking tray with 2 oven gloves, since the last customer stayed here in 2020. For breakfast I had hummus, salad and olives and by 10.30am some of my draining board Jenga had collapsed on account of us having a very small earthquake, a couple of pieces of the worktop fell off!

I got the slow cooker out and made bolognese, which made good use of some of the 2 year old Dikmen wine and smelled so good. Our Aussie friends, and owners of the apartment downstairs, who are still locked down in Australia, asked me to take photos of their plants to see if they had survived, they were missing Dalyan and couldn’t wait to be able to visit again.
I went to get more shopping and had seen a new shop advertising Vegan cheese on Facebook so decided to have a look in there too.

Here’s what I bought in each of the 3 shops I went to, and the prices:

Şok supermarket
Popcorn 2.60
Rice 5.90
Fairy liquid 10.25
Lentils 12.50
Parmesan cheese 17.50

Total 48.75 lira (£4.13)

Şevikoğlu supermarket
Potatoes 2.88
Aubergines 4.96
Red cabbage 5.27
1 tin of tomatoes 7.90

Total 21.01lira (£1.78)

Dalyan şarküteri
1 tub of black olives
1 tin of coconut milk
1 Lurpak butter
1 vegan cheese
1 cheddar cheese
1 Sharwood’s sauce

I’m not sure of the individual prices but the total was 267 lira (£22.63), it was so expensive because I was buying imported products, but it’s a very nice shop.

I had finally got a Turkish phone number now and I arranged to pick up the keys for my parents place, later in the week so I could check on it for them. We were still hoping they would be able to come out to Turkey to visit this year so I was keeping my fingers crossed. My mom had said she might be able to bring me some bras and my UK bank card if they came out and I hoped she had room for my popcorn maker too – you can buy ready made popcorn here but it’s made with oil so it is fattening.
For dinner I had some of the Bolognese with pasta and it was so good, some went in the fridge and the rest in the freezer, I watched more of The Fall on Netflix before bed as I needed another early night – tomorrow it would be 1 week since I arrived in Dalyan and I had exciting plans.

Dalyan – 27th September

Dalyan – 27th September

I woke up early on Monday 27th September but went back to sleep, it had been 1 week since I had woken up in bed with Captain Caveman, but it already felt longer and we had hardly spoken in that time. Having eaten loads of things that I probably shouldn’t, on the boat trip yesterday, my stomach was playing up and so I didn’t dare leave the house to do some of the things on my to do list. I had cornflakes and milk for breakfast then crisps and cherry juice for lunch and I was putting off having the allergy test in case I found out I was allergic to something worse than gluten or dairy – what if it was wine!? I did some laundry, washed some pots that had been left in the oven by some guests, for a long time, with oil in (nice!) and I unpacked more of my stuff. I took photos of our pergola and overgrown bougainvillea plant which was desperately ready for a cut and I was glad that King Emlak were sending the gardener round. It looked like some residents in grounds and shops near to our gate were using the space as a dumping ground for their rubbish instead of walking it to the nearby bin – why are people so thoughtless when it comes to litter!?

In the afternoon I managed a trip to the supermarket, the phone shop and the bank.
Here’s what was in my shopping basket and the prices:

Migros Supermarket
Onions 1.21
Garlic 4.74
Quark 5.50
Toast loaf 6.45
Pasta 6.75
Hummus 7.95
Tomato paste 9.95
Mushrooms 10.90
1 tin of baked beans 14.44
3 chicken breasts 23.73
500g beef mince 25.60
Toilet paper 42.75

Total spent 159.89 lira (£13.55)

My Turkcell SIM card cost just 190 lira (£16) and came with data and minutes, not quite as cheap as in Vietnam but it would do the trick for me to be able to use internet banking again. When I got back the gardener was still working on the garden, even the rosemary and orange trees had been growing a lot more than I had anticipated and it was clear we would need to do something about the pergola which was in a state of disrepair and had a cat sleeping in it. I finally got to speak to Captain Caveman who was doing well and wasn’t missing me yet. By the evening I was feeling a bit better so I went to Pammukale restaurant and picked up a takeaway pide and side salad. It is one of my old favourites and the quality is consistently good, my parents have been visiting this restaurant for years and we all love it. My pide was really tasty and I was going to save half, but (obviously) I didn’t.

Dalyan – 26th September

Dalyan – 26th September

I had an amazing day on Sunday 26th September; on the first night I had arrived I’d been invited to join friends on a day out. The boat trip was with Captain Boris Boats and they are really good, my last trip with them was a boxing day one which I thoroughly enjoyed and their food is always outstanding. The owners are such a good laugh as well as being extremely accommodating. Sarah came to call for me on her new tricycle with 2 giddy dogs and I checked if she realised we were going on a boat. She was going to leave her bike by the river and the dogs would make their way home, apparently. There was quite a party of us, the organiser wasn’t feeling too well but was determined to soldier on, another lady doesn’t like boats and was a bit unsure about going but was there, most of the rest were people I’d already met up with in the few days I’d been in Dalyan. Jamie was hungover as he’d been up drinking until 6.30am but he was still the first to get an alcoholic drink. There was an issue with the white wine so I had a rosé with Jax and Captain Boris made arrangements for a prompt restock of the white for our lunch. Once we stopped at Köyceğiz lake Nick and Annie bravely had a dip in the cold water, but I didn’t go for a swim – it felt a bit too chilly compared to the Vietnamese temperatures, even though it was a hot, sunny day. After the lake Captain Boris was having a quick wine pick up in Dalyan and then on to the area at the back of the beach for our lunch and an optional dip. More white wine was delivered but we lost one of the party as the lady who didn’t have her sea legs on got off, the rest of us stayed on and went to the beach. I enjoyed a white with soda water while I caught a bit of sun on the comfy seats at the front of the boat and admired the gorgeous scenery along the river. The buffet lunch was fantastic, there was lots of different dishes including chicken, köfte, prawns, salads and mezzes that were so delicious that I had to have more than one helping! More booze flowed for most of us, I’d moved on to the red wine, followed by some music from Onur, who had brought his guitar and is a great singer. In memory of Graeme, Jamie’s husband, we all were treated to a cocktail called Mr G and it went down well on the front of the boat with the sun shining. The day had gone so fast and had been such a relaxing trip, my first on a Dalyan boat in 1 year and 9 months. When we got back a few of us decided to have a nice cocktail in the Rum Bar, where I bumped into my next door neighbours, who’d just arrived in Dalyan.
That night I didn’t need any dinner that evening, I started watching Series 3 of The Fall on Netflix but I was having trouble staying awake.

If you want to read more about Captain Boris Boat trips, they have a Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/Captain-Boris-Boat-Trips-222487618557269/

Photo credit – Captain Boris staff and guests

Dalyan – 25th September

Dalyan – 25th September

Saturday 25th September was meant to be a quiet day and trying to get back on track with healthy eating again, but that didn’t pan out. For breakfast I had Turkish cornflakes with fresh milk (wasn’t ill) and really enjoyed them. I read the Vietnamese news out of habit, did some blogging and relaxed a bit, time seemed to be going by so quickly already. Back in Saigon, Vietnam, they had decided to make the gap between 1st and 2nd Astra Zeneca vaccines, only 6 weeks, here’s the article:
https://tuoitrenews.vn/news/society/20210924/ho-chi-minh-city-cuts-astrazeneca-vaccine-dose-gap-to-six-weeks/63261.html
For lunch I had the leftover chicken kebab and flat bread, from yesterday’s lunch at Lukka bar, and added a few olives, I also had some cherry juice which is one of my favourites. In our booze cupboard we still had 2 bottles of wine so I decided to open the one called Dikmen to have with a bag of crisps (I still had them from Vietnam), salami and cheese. The wine was probably best kept for cooking, it must have been bad as I could only manage a small glass of it. I went to the bank as I needed to get more cash out and have my bank books updated and, this was the only place I have noticed it so far, you have to show your HES code to enter the building. Masks must be worn and they are quite strict about the lay out and social distancing.
Jamie had been in touch about his 15 minutes of fame, he’d been part of a TV show where he’d had to speak about British tourists coming to Turkey, it was going to be on TV tonight so he’d invited us to Lukka bar to watch it. When I arrived Jamie, Sarah and Jax were already having a drink, I ordered a red wine and we all ordered food; Sarah had a nicoise salad, Jax and Jamie had pasta arrabiata, while I had a rather delicious garlic mushroom and salami pizza. I really enjoyed my pizza, I forgot to save half and ate the whole thing but then I was flagging and couldn’t even manage another red wine. Jamie’s bit of filming never appeared and so I left those 3 having another drink because my body clock thought it was already past midnight and tomorrow we had a bit of excitement to look forward to.

Dalyan – 24th September

Dalyan – 24th September

When I was in Phong Nha, Friday night was all you can eat pizza night, now that I’m in Dalyan, Friday is fish and chip night. On Friday 24th September I had pre-ordered my fish and chips at Lukka Bar, local restaurant/bars not far away from our apartment. I was very excited to be having fish and chips, having not been to the UK for 3 years, it would probably be one of the English meals I do miss from back home, even though I had eaten it a few times in Vietnam.
When I woke up Captain Caveman had sent me a video of the rain where he was and it didn’t look good, potential flooding was still possible and he wasn’t going anywhere. I also kept checking the Vietnamese Corona data to see if there was any increase in cases in our village, as Bich had been told by the policeman. Interestingly, there were still no cases reported in Khuong Ha, like last time and they never increased the lockdown the day after I left, as Captain Caveman and I had suspected. This was not the first time we had been told there were positive cases near us and then it turned out not to be the case. Captain Caveman and I think that when a person is suspected of being positive and goes for testing they are assumed positive regardless and the gossip goes round that they are, when they come back negative nobody is shouting about it – very misleading and causes unnecessary panic.
In Dalyan it was sunny as I headed off to the Millennium Shop to buy a battery for my scales, on the way I noticed the new pergola at the entrance to Block A on our complex, it looked nice. There were 2 new places behind Jiks Bar; a coffee roasting cafe and a pet shop, I got 2 batteries for 15 lira (£1.27) and then walked to Migros, one of the main high street supermarkets, where I bought quite a bit of stuff.

For those of you who want to know what was in my shopping basket that morning and the costs of the items, here it is:

Migros Supermarket
2 simits 2.25
Washing up sponges 4.95
1 packet of salami 6.85
1 litre of cherry juice 7.95
Cornflakes 7.95
2 packets of biscuits 8.00
1 packet of cheese slices 8.50 200g of butter 8.50
1 litre of milk 9.25
2 croissants 9.80
Bin bags 9.90
Mouthwash 15.21
Ziplock bags 15.50
Toothpaste 17.95
3 liquid soaps 39.36


Total spent 204.92 lira (£17.37)

I noticed that people were wearing masks in the shop but not social distancing at all. At the check out I was surprised to see my loyalty card still worked and I was pleased as I got a 3 for 2 deal on soap.
It wasn’t an average weekly shop though as there were quite a few things that I would only shop for every now and again and I couldn’t carry all that I needed to in one go.
Back home I noticed the pergola to Block B (our’s) was leaning under the weight of the extremely overgrown bougainvillea plant and I had a little sit down as my ankle was hurting, I was definitely finding the walking about slow and a bit painful, but I was doing ok with the 2 sets of marble stairs at home. I was excited to have a battery in my weighing scales and was looking forward to seeing how much weight I had lost. I checked it 3 times, just to be sure, but I wasn’t happy – I was the same weight as when I left Turkey 20 months ago! I could tell it was from eating so much bread recently, which was not good at all. I still had a huge breakfast of 2 croissants, 1 simit, and a bowl of Turkish brand cornflakes with normal milk as I was feeling hungry, none of this made me ill.

Video from Captain Caveman in a rainy Phong Nha, Vietnam

For lunch I met Jamie at Lukka Bar where he had 2 starters, nachos and chicken strips, which were huge portions and I had my first Turkish restaurant meal, a chicken shish, which was also massive and I took half home for tomorrow. There’s a new shop next door to Lukka Bar, it’s Katrina’s shop and has some really nice items in there – it also smells divine! Maizie Moo has quite an upmarket, luxurious feel to it and looks really nice, I even got some free samples to try as well as having a good old sniff at all the scents. My eczema on my face had been made worse by the wearing of a mask for 48 hours and so Katrina recommended a skin treatment which I started straight away (here’s the Facebook page for her new shop: https://www.facebook.com/maiziemoohomescents/).
After having lunch and a mooch round Maizie Moo’s we were sensible and went home, 2 years ago we would have been on an all day and night session but we needed to take it easy as we had booked for tonight not fully realising what we had let ourselves in for!

Not only was it fish and chips night but it was also Lukka’s Bingo night, this week was a 90s theme. Sarah had organised it and had booked a table for 8 of us. Jamie ordered Hunters chicken and chips, while the rest of us had fish and chips, mine with plenty of vinegar. It was good but took a while to be served as the place was full and so we were all a bit tiddly by the time the 90s bingo started. My fish and chips plus the red wines came to a total of 127 lira (£10.76) and I definitely got a large portion. Süleyman arrived later and sat on the end of the table, next to me and Jamie, ordered a burger and we ended up having a right old laugh. There was lots of photo and video taking (by other people) and so we gave it our all on the singing, mainly because it had been such a long time since we’d all got together and we were having a great time. I’m not a massive bingo fan but the games were well planned and Mehmet was so amusing as he was reading out the songs! Here’s a video of bingo at Lukka bar:
https://www.facebook.com/338112536849107/posts/857332751593747/
One thing I had noticed about being back in Turkey was the amount of people still smoking and I found it hard to deal with, especially as I’d not encountered many smokers together in Vietnam, so when the bingo finished I went home, reeking of fags – I was definitely going to get through more hair products in Dalyan if I had to wash my hair more often!

Photo credit Lukka Bar, Jamie & Sarah

Dalyan – 23rd September

Dalyan – 23rd September

I woke up before 7am on Thursday 23rd September, expecting it to be almost lunchtime. My watch said 10.45am but that was still on Vietnamese time which is 4 hours ahead of Turkey. I had slept well but was still tired and hungry again. I had more of the provisions from Leanne for my breakfast, adding the şakşuka/baba ganoush that I’d brought from the plane which had leaked a bit, then made a list of all the things I needed to do. One of my first jobs was working out which keys are for what and checking all the stuff I packed away in locked cupboards, just over 20 months ago, surprisingly it was still ok. I also started a shopping list as I would need more stuff and I needed a new battery for the bathroom scales ready to see how much I weighed, I didn’t have any scales in Phong Nha. I was slightly concerned that I had been near to more people last night than I have in months, in Vietnam. Today I would try to have a quiet day, I got busy with unpacking and doing some laundry. I only had some almonds and cashews for lunch (taken from one of my plane journeys). For dinner I decided not to go out to eat, as I was struggling to stay awake past 6pm so I went to the local kebab shop and ordered a chicken kebab and chips. When I got it home I watched more Netflix and ate the delicious chicken wrap, I didn’t really need the chips. It would be interesting to see what the scales said tomorrow as I definitely felt like I was lighter than when I was last here so we would see – being back in Turkey with so many eateries and bars open was going to be hard though, the diet would be almost impossible with so much food choice here.

Here’s my shopping from Leanne which was very kindly popped in the fridge for when I arrived (prices in Turkish Lira and is about 11.8 lira to £1):

From Migros supermarket
1 carrier bag 0.25
1 apple 1.34
3 cucumbers 1.93
1 pear 2.29
1 bottle of water 3.25
1 pack of chicken slices 3.95
Tomatoes 5.02
Bread 5.50
1 pack of gluten free biscuits 5.95
1 pack of cheese spread 6.25
1 pack of salami 6.85
1 pack cheddar slices 8.50
Olives 8.79
6 eggs 9.00

Total spent 68.87 (£5.84)

Some things were cheaper than in Vietnam, but overall a little more expensive so I would need to budget well, given that I was expecting to be here for a while. I congratulated myself on managing to have a fairly tame first full day in Dalyan and wondered how long that would last for.

Getting to Turkey – 22nd September

Getting to Turkey – 22nd September

My 2nd flight, from Singapore to Istanbul on Wednesday 22nd September, was at 1.45am, had no more than 30 people on and only 1 person, that I saw, in business class. I had last slept in a bed on Sunday night and even though I’d had a couple of nodding offs, I still was so tired. We all got a row of 3 seats to ourselves, on the Singapore Airlines flight, with pillow, blankets and plenty of food, drink and snacks. Service was excellent and the 2 red wines I had were very pleasant. I used to look forward to watching a film on a flight but I didn’t find any that looked worth watching or any I had heard of so I had a little nap, at last!
Before we landed I checked with staff on the flight from Singapore about my luggage and they also said I had to clear immigration and pick up the luggage at Istanbul, before getting the domestic flight. We landed 30 minutes late because of a dead carcass on the runway and couldn’t disembark for another 15 minutes after we stopped, luckily I had booked on the later flight to Dalaman anyway so I wasn’t rushing. Once in Istanbul airport everything was busy and like Covid didn’t exist and it felt quite overwhelming. It seems most people, if they do wear a mask, only cover their mouth and there is no adherence to social distancing whatsoever. There was even a train that had that annoying Baby Shark song on a loop while transporting families up and down the terminal, which I really could have done without. As advised by check-in back in Hanoi I tried to collect my luggage but was told it had been booked all the way through, which is what Captain Caveman and I had thought would happen. It was a long walk to the domestic transfer, I was slow, my ankle was giving me some gyp and when I got there they asked me if I had collected my luggage and rechecked in. I left not knowing whether my suitcase would be there or not. I decided to book the Turkish Airlines lounge for $18 and had snacks and soft drinks, water, tea/coffee. I tried to get a wine, not realising it was only the morning and that they didn’t even do alcohol but got directed to the tea and coffee facilities by a kind member of staff. The social distancing was better, signs saying if you touch it you take it on the food, toilets good and you get straight to the gate without any hassle.
My last flight, Istanbul to Dalaman, was very full and, although when the flight attendants gave a meal and drink out they asked people to not take masks off everyone at once, they did. I didn’t eat or drink and took my picnic in my bag to have later. When I landed at my final destination, Dalaman, there was no luggage but a helpful member of staff came to find me and asked me to follow him through a door to international arrivals to check if this was my case, and it was – that was fortuitous! 
I walked outside and my driver was waiting for me with a sign with my name on, the air was hot, sunny and dry as we walked to Sonuç’s car. I was looking forward to getting ‘home’, after 48 hours in my mask, letting everyone know I had arrived and getting some much needed sleep!

The driver helped me with my luggage up the stairs to Captain Caveman’s apartment in Dalyan and the fare cost me 240 Turkish Lira (approx £20), apparently it’s cheaper to get a taxi at the airport but I knew if I didn’t have enough cash on me I could pay later. I was looking forward to getting in, letting Captain Caveman know I’d arrived, having a shower and bed, even though it was only the afternoon! Unfortunately, none of those things were about to happen in the short term. My friend, Leanne, had got me a welcome pack of provisions in and popped on the AC so it was a pleasant welcome back and I had some cold water to drink. Of course, my Vietnamese phone stopped working as soon I left Vietnam and I didn’t yet have a Turkish SIM card to replace it, I’ve not been in the UK for 3 years and so I no longer have my other phone number either. I was hoping the internet would be on but unfortunately it wasn’t working and I promised I would let Captain Caveman know when I arrived ‘home’. If I went to bed I would probably sleep for a long time and so I chose to rectify the internet situation first. I decided to go to a nearby empty bar where I could use their internet to contact Leanne to find out more about the internet, I walked to Heybe which is a short distance from our apartment and as I approached I noticed a couple of people I recognised, Angela and Nick, who saw me as I spotted them. I was masked up but of course no one else was and it turns out masks aren’t compulsory in Dalyan. I told them my issue and we got the WiFi password, Leanne had already been trying to get in touch to tell me she couldn’t connect the internet without my phone number and a physical look at my passport and that I needed to go to Captainnet office before 6pm. I messaged Captain Caveman to tell him I arrived and to confess that I was accidentally already in a bar, now with a cold Efes beer in front of me, courtesy of Nick. Before I had drank 1 beer I had also met the owner of the bar, Donny, a singer called Onur, the owner of a new restaurant and had the pleasure to witness a gang of shirtless lads from Dublin who had just arrived for a holiday! I went back home to get some money and my passport, then walked all the way to the other side of Dalyan town to update the internet. While in there the staff wore masks but the Turkish customers sat drinking coffee so had their masks down under their chin. On the walk back my ankle was feeling sore and was very swelled up, I also noticed the local police all had their masks under their chin or worn as an armband on their elbow – maybe it was a new fashion! As I got back to Heybe’s Maddie had finished work and had come to join everyone, surprised to see me, so I had another beer and agreed to go get a burger for dinner with everyone, from a new (to me) place called Wonky’s. I went for a bacon burger but it came without the bacon and I forgot to ask for it without the sauce, which had chillies in. Even after avoiding the sauce, we all discovered the burgers had chillies in, they were good but I’m allergic to chillies so I didn’t eat it all. Onur had chosen a really good mixed pizza and I had a slice of that too, I enjoyed it. While in there, a few people I knew came over to me asking why I had my mask on and telling me they can’t catch it because they have been double jabbed. Another friend said there was no need for me to have my mask on as it’s safe here! I was in shock to meet some people who think they can’t catch the virus and spread it if they’ve had the vaccine. I was genuinely worried that I should be trying to keep away from people until but it was a bit difficult to do, the town felt very busy to me, compared with Phong Nha, Vietnam. My friend Jamie arrived and we had a glass of wine before heading off to Lukka for a quiet wine there where we started planning stuff, it felt so good to see him after all this time and to actually be able to plan ahead a bit. I finally got back home, the internet was working, I had a 2nd dinner and watched an episode of Sex Education before bed. It had been a very long day and I was ready to have an extra long lay in tomorrow!