On Friday 20th September I notice the bad diet habits and started to creep back in, not just booze – there were now an abundance of crisps available in Dalyan and I love crisps! In the meantime I was about to have the most calories I have ever consumed in one day in just an evening, as the three of us had booked a tour.
For breakfast I had gluten free bread with a scraping of cheese spread (no butter) and for lunch a chicken wrap with fat free yogurt and salad. I was being so healthy until it was time to call for my parents and had a rather large whisky on their balcony before our evening’s outing with Volkan’s Adventures.
We had trouble finding the office, which is small but next door to Lukka bar, and met with a group of other customers. I had a diet coke and we waited for everyone to arrive before being lead, by Volkan, to his boat. I had booked us on a wine tasting evening, which runs every Friday in the holiday season. It started all informative and classy with everyone sipping the white wine and listening to the history and tasting notes. It ended in absolute drunken mayhem, but somewhere in between we had made friends with the man shouting at another guest for licking his fingers while picking up pieces of chicken. We tried 10 wines and were then allowed to consume our favourites (all of them) and when the boat pulled back up in town we simply continued drinking. It was a bargain £35 for the boat trip and it was fantastic, from what we remember.
We finished off the night with one of our ‘new friends’ going missing and having to find her, me leaving my phone on the boat and having to be tracked down to the Gin bar for Volkan to return it, my mom having trouble getting my dad home because he could hardly walk and me bumping in to a friend and having 2 Bailey’s at Lukka bar!

On Saturday 21st September I felt like death and there was only one thing to sort me out – a greasy breakfast!
My parents met me at Jiks, by which time it was about 1pm, they had full English breakfasts and I had bacon, beans and mushrooms. We all decided to have a no alcohol day and I couldn’t even look at wine!
I did manage to be quite productive by actually doing some Vietnamese homework, watching more Broadchurch and booking a trip to Cappadocia with our friends from Australia.
In the evening we met a Turkish friend of mine for dinner at Geçit restaurant where I had a lovely beef casserole, which was lovely. For the first time in a long time I drank only orange juice (at breakfast) and water all day. We also needed to be back to normal for the next day because I had arranged for me, mom, dad and a friend to meet up with a random Dalyan dweller for the Singaporean Grand Prix.

In my desperation to watch the Singaporean Grand Prix on Sunday 22nd September without the disruption of rugby or football taking priority in a sports bar, I had roped us in for a Sunday lunch. Earlier in the week I had posted in a Facebook forum to ask where the F1 would be shown as priority and had managed to secure viewing at Central Park with a retired English woman who now lives here.
I’d only had my usual gluten free toast for breakfast and so was going to order something substantial for lunch. I walked to the cafe with my parents, where our friend joined us and we were 1 hour early, hoping to see the preamble of the race. At 2pm I ordered a big bottle of water, a cider and a jacket potato with Bolognese and cheese.
My ‘facebook group friend’ and her husband arrived and were perplexed to find the England v Tonga rugby game on with just one person watching it. By the time the owner put the race on we had missed the first 3 laps and the commentary was in German. The place was full of pensioners, a darts game was going on next to the TV but nevertheless we watched the race and then left with a brief goodbye to my new ‘friends’.
Captain Caveman was in Balikpapan or Melak (I lose track of him) and so I had been relaying the race updates to him. We were thinking of staying in but instead we ate at Pamukkale, a cheap but tasty cafe on the main road. I ordered aubergine and garlic yogurt and got enough to feed 4 so I brought loads of it home. We had a couple of glasses of wine and a fairly early night so I managed to finish watching the last episode of Broadchurch. On the way home I noticed that some blocks had been delivered at the end of our road and it looked like the paving of it was due to begin, the old road had been prepared and the zabıta had blocked it off with ‘crime scene’ tape.

I arrived in Turkey on 5th September after a change of flight from Hanoi. I had booked an earlier flight and decided to not use the one I had booked for 4 days later with a lengthy layover in Jeddah. It was a bit sunny on my first morning in Dalyan but not as hot as I was expecting – it was also quiet as I walked along the river. I was planning to stay a while in Captain Caveman’s apartment near the town centre of Dalyan, where he would join me in about 6 weeks time.
The first person I bumped in to was Captain Turgay, who was at his boat getting ready for a day trip on the water. I had already booked him for a surprise birthday celebration for a friend’s 40th the week after and so we chatted about that. I had a mint tea and a vanilla milkshake at Dalyano so that I could use the internet to let people know I had arrived in Dalyan.
Still tired, I found a Turkish breakfast at Lukka bar, where I confused the waiter by ordering it without bread, eggs, cheese rolls, tomato and cucumber and it was pretty good! I stocked up with essentials at the corner shop and went to get unpacked and start the washing. I decided to have a quiet meal at Adilan where I really enjoyed the stuffed mushrooms and a chicken shish. Plans changed quickly when a friend went past on her bicycle and we ended up having quite a few drinks before going to Lukka and Jazz bar!

On Friday 6th September I would finally be seeing my parents again, after quite a long time. I’d last seen my mom in Turkey about 11 months ago but I’d not seen my dad for about 14 months, back in England. We had agreed to meet for breakfast and they would message me when they were up. I was awake from 7am (11am Vietnamese time) with a hangover and no recollection of saying bye to anyone last night.
I waited for the message and drank loads of water, trying to sort myself out as I felt terrible and had a really bad stomach.
We went to Jiks for breakfast around 10:30am where we all went for the English versions, it was great to see them and afterwards we stocked up on provisions and went back home for a rest.
In the afternoon we had a couple of drinks at Amy’s bar, where I managed two ciders and then in the evening we had our first family meal at one of our favourites, Bistro Blue. My chicken casserole was so big that I took some home and we had a good first night together drinking wine too.

In Dalyan there is a weekly market so on Saturday 7th September I went there with my parents while they stocked up on fresh veg, salad, fruit and cheese. I decided not to buy food as I was looking forward to eating out over the next few days/weeks.
It was a fairly relaxed, sunny day and I started reading a new book, which my mom had brought for me. I used to read a lot but had not read a book for about a year and was really looking forward to getting back in to it now that I would have some free time. The cleaners had been to the apartment and it was looking clean and tidy – it was nice to be back in Dalyan.
I received photos and messages from people in Phong Nha, Vietnam, to say it was sunny again and the water levels were down. This was good news as it was Captain Caveman’s last day in Phong Nha before he left for his adventures.
In the evening I joined my parents at Pamukkale restaurant for a lovely meal – I had stuffed mushrooms and a chicken shish, both very tasty.

Sunday 8th September was a very memorable day!!! It was such a good one that I forgot to take any photos, which is unlike me. I had shop bought gluten free bread (toasted) and lurpak butter for my breakfast and it was the first time I’d had it in 10 months. A friend had invited us to Sunday lunch at Lukka bar and despite me not being able to have the Yorkshire pudding, gravy or cauliflower cheese I really enjoyed my chicken version. My parents and fellow diners had the beef, which looked amazing. I also managed 4 glasses of white wine and a trip to Jiks – it was really good to just spend time chatting with the folks for a change (I was even laughing at Dad’s jokes).

Monday 1st September was a busy day for learning the Vietnamese language in Hanoi. Before breakfast I did my homework, logged in to a new app for learning words and phrases (which the teacher, Lien, can see my progress on), and recorded myself saying the Vietnamese alphabet. Breakfast was a very healthy bowl of fruit with yoghurt and a mug of earl gray tea at a nearby cafe, Joma.
I had two lessons that afternoon with a gap for a bit more homework and some lunch at a nearby cafe. I had Bun Cha at Friends cafe which was satisfactory but not as good or cheap as the one at D-Arts in Phong Nha.
When I finished at Vietlesson around 6.30pm I got a Grab bike to The Local (again) to watch the Grand Prix. This time I was well prepared for rain with a spare set of clothes and a rain jacket that I didn’t need.
We had a bottle of wine, lots of peanuts and some bar food before a friend finished his lesson and joined us.

Lessons 4 & 5 were on Monday 2nd September with my first one being at 9:30am on Vietnamese Independence Day. After class Lien (my teacher) and I went to Oriberry cafe for a drink with Captain Caveman. He had the great idea to call to a shopping mall to try to find me a swimming costume in M&S, which turned in to a terrible idea. I have never seen a public place so busy, aside from a stadium event.The biggest size was 12 and so I was out of luck, we didn’t even find anywhere to have lunch as it was just rammed so we got a taxi back to town and went to one of my favourite restaurants in Hanoi.
We ate a selection of food at the Fat Pig and it was excellent, as always.
My next lesson was at 5pm and then I arranged to meet Captain Caveman and some friends for a meal at a local BBQ place.

My last two Vietnamese lessons were on Tuesday 3rd September and so we had a great breakfast at Home 38 before I headed off to Vietlesson for 10am.
At lunch time I came back to Himalayan Phoenix to meet Captain Caveman for lunch. We chose Joma as it was close and I had fruit salad with yoghurt followed by a chicken salad. I spent time doing my homework and then left Captain Caveman at a bar while I went for my 5pm lesson (my last one for this year). Captain Caveman and I would be going to different places for a holiday and he was off caving and diving which meant I wouldn’t see him for just over 6 weeks – because of this I was hoping for a nice last evening in Hanoi and possibly a romantic meal. Of course that didn’t happen!
I said goodbye to my teacher and got a Grab bike to The Bottle Shop where I met a very drunk Captain Caveman and an old Phong Nha friend.
We had drinks and everytime I finished one, Captain Caveman still had a full one. We had a laugh but by 9:30pm I was getting a bit tetchy as I still needed to pack as I was leaving Vietnam the next morning.
Eventually, after much faffing about, Captain Caveman and I said our farewells to our friend and headed towards home. As we were walking I mentioned I was disappointed he had not taken me to Cousins (as promised) so we went there at 9:50pm with only 10 minutes until closing. Luckily they still served us starters and mains plus a bottle of nice wine and Captain Caveman was so drunk we had to take the rest of the wine home. While I was packing my stuff he fell asleep fully clothed and I couldn’t wake him up at all.

My original flight from Vietnam to Turkey was with Saudi Air via Jeddah in another 4 days time, however, I didn’t fancy taking it (due to a few reasons) and decided to get a new flight via Istanbul instead. Wednesday 4th September was the new date of the flight which also meant I had my return flight booked back to Vietnam in January 2020. After such a big (and late) dinner the night before we decided against breakfast. Captain Caveman and I went straight to the airport and it was clear he was feeling fragile – he looked extremely peaky too.
After I checked in, my first flight to Moscow with Aeroflot was due to leave just before 11am and so we said our goodbyes. There were no dramas or declarations of feelings as I think Captain Caveman was doing his best to not be sick (again).
In the airport I ordered pho ga and a bottle of water at a small cafe near the gate and it set me back 175,000 vnd which is ridiculous but I was hungry. It was a really good chicken noodle soup actually and I was glad I had it as the Russians are a big fan of wheaty meals and I wasn’t sure when I would next be able to eat.
On the flight I finally got to watch a couple of films that I’d heard good reviews about – Bohemian Rhapsody and A Star is Born (I should have had tissues at the ready for the second film – Jeez). I also watched a documentary on Cappadocia and how it will eventually disappear due to tourists walking round it. It was interesting but I had a trip to visit there coming up in October.
When we landed in Moscow we were 35 minutes early which was very lucky as I only just made the transfer to my flight to Istanbul. One hour is not enough time to catch a connecting flight in Moscow, in my opinion, the airport is extremely busy with numerous shops and difficult to run through.
The next flight ended up being delayed, had no entertainment, or alcohol and so I watched Mindhunter and fell asleep. When I arrived at Istanbul it was just before midnight but we had to sit on the runway for quite a while until we could get off.

Rather than a helpful ‘how to save money when travelling’ (to be found in abundance on the Internet) this is more a personal recollection of things I’ve not spent money on since being a lady of leisure.
1) handbags – I no longer buy them and use either a cloth bag for the beach and a donated one which was being thrown away. Generally when out together Captain Caveman is in charge of keys and money (He always has pockets).
2) Clothes – I only buy what I absolutely need and tend to wear everything until it gets worn out. I don’t follow fashions and have clothes made in local places.
3) Cosmetics/Products – I don’t own any makeup and I use only hotel miniature toiletries (freebies) or my solid shampoo and conditioner bars from Lush which last for ages. The only thing I do spend money on is suncream.
4) Phone credit – I have relied on free wifi in the places we stayed and visited, I got a SIM card for Vietnam where pay as you go is cheap. For Turkey and UK I have a Vodafone sim which I top up and get the extra bundle deals when I can.
5) Pop – we have given up drinking sugary/fizzy drinks, usually because of when it’s hot and we are thirsty it’s easy to over indulge. We still have fresh juices but without added sugar where possible. I just drink water or alcohol and the odd diet coke, cocktail or smoothie when out. Most places provide free water bottle refills.

6) Snacks – apart from the odd bag of crisps we try not to eat between meals and the snacks we are used to from our home country are often limited, non-existent or expensive abroad.
7) Souvenirs – I’ve bought nothing at all that I don’t need and when people I’m with have shopped, I’ve resisted.
8) Sunglasses – I still haven’t broken the pair I bought in Turkey for $5 about 12 years ago.
9) Books or other reading material – we used book swaps where ever we found good ones so that we read for free, even if they are a bit sticky from other people’s sun lotion.
10) Memberships and subscriptions – since leaving my home country I no longer have any direct debits, am not a member of any clubs and have no regular payments out for anything I don’t need. I don’t buy magazines, I’m no longer in the wine club and I don’t have a gym membership I don’t use.

With hindsight I could have adopted these while I was still working in the UK and could have saved more money for my trip. If you’re thinking of going off on your travels why not try it and see how much money it saves you.

I woke a few times on the sleeper bus from Phong Nha to Hanoi which had been surprisingly fine. The journey was fast and noisy but overall not too bad and even the toilet was clean(ish). We did stop about 20 minutes out of Hanoi in a garage and the driver had a 1 hour break from just after 5am.
When we got off the bus I took the bags in a Grab taxi while Captain Caveman cycled to Puku cafe.

It was 6:30am and I was about to have my first of three breakfasts!! The sausage, bacon and (initially chilled) beans at Puku were not as good as the amazing breakfast options in Phong Nha but I ate it and had a very fresh camomile tea with it. We had to wait until after 9:30am so I got sleepy and decided a second breakfast of fruit salad and yogurt might do me good – it did.
We left our luggage at Himalaya Phoenix Apartments, where we would stay for 4 nights, and walked to Home 38, a cafe nearby. They do an amazing all day breakfast so I had that for lunch. In the afternoon, just after check-in Captain Caveman went to the dentist and I had a little rest before my first Vietnamese lesson at 5pm, by which time it was raining pretty heavily and I got soaked.
My first class at Vietlesson went well and was followed by wine and nibbles at a sports bar, called The Local. I took a Grab motorbike there and was saturated by the time I got there and was quite uncomfortable sat in a wet dress in the cold, air-conditioned room. We still managed a dinner at Cugini, a great Italian restaurant near to where we were staying, where the food was excellent.
Back at Himalayan Phoenix a hot shower, my new T-Shirt and bed was all I needed. I set my alarm so that I could finish my homework early before my next class.

My last day in Phong Nha this year fell on Friday 30th August. I’d been here the longest of each of the years I’d been coming (more than 32 weeks) and I was definitely looking forward to seeing my family and friends in Turkey next month. This was also the first year that I had chosen not to go back to the UK and that was a bit tough, knowing I wouldn’t catch up with my mates back ‘home’. First, though, I was excited to finally be starting Vietnamese lessons with Lien at Viet Lesson in Hanoi – the same teacher who had taught Captain Caveman, and other westerners living in Phong Nha. On my last day we had breakfast at Coffee Station, lunch at Victory Road Villas, a cheeky cider at Ho Khanh’s and dinner at Chao Vietnam on our last day – all were fantastic as usual. I even got to say bye to Milo and Bomb (dogs) as well as Billy the friendly goat. It was a rainy day and so Khanh Linh arranged a Jungle Boss car for me to town with my massive suitcase (containing a slow cooker, and a selection of freshly made clothes).
It was also my first time going all the way to Hanoi on a sleeper bus which left Easy Tiger at 9:30pm. Most of the other expats and some Vietnamese friends had warned me off getting the bus because it’s uncomfortable and dangerous but Captain Caveman had to take that method due to him taking a bicycle with him!
My good friends Uy and Chung were there to see us off on to the bus and had even got us a gift of a t-shirt, earplugs and an eye mask plus I was travelling with the pillow they made me last year too.
Anetta made it back from her Son Doong trip a day early and came to see us off too and it was good to have time for one last wine together. Aussie Pete, Trevor and Martin also came to see us off but in a much more relaxed manner. I would only be gone for 4 months and Captain Caveman was due back to Phong Nha in 5 days.
When we got on the bus they made Captain Caveman go to the back and I got the second one back, on the bottom left. I had downloaded some Netflix to watch too – Mindhunter and The Fall.
By 9:45pm Phong Nha was behind me and I had already nodded off!!

To those who know me it’s pretty obvious I love good food although I am very difficult to cater for because I have allergies and am extremely fussy. When I first visited Phong Nha I craved cheese and decent wine but over the years the amount of restaurants and cafes providing all types of delicious food has improved immensely and there are many places I enjoyed eating at this summer. All my meals have been gluten free and without chillies so I’ve listed all the restaurants where I ate a few times. They are not in any particular order and the ones with a * are also places to stay (homestay/hotel/hostel).

1. Little Vietnam
I love the pho ga (chicken noodle soup) there and they also do a good sized portion of fried rice.

2. Sunflowers
My favourite dishes are mushroom curry and the fresh spring rolls but all the food is pretty good.

3. Phong Nha Vegan
This one is about 3km from the main town centre but they do a delivery service. I always have the same few dishes; mushroom la lot, banh cuon, and any of the soups are fantastic, especially the mushroom!

4. Funny Monkeys*
Near to the church (but don’t let that put you off) the owners are lovely and the BBQ food is really tasty. They also do some great passion fruit drinks and the beer is always cold.

5. Coco House*
One of the places I have been eating at since it first opened and the chef has skills. I highly recommend the clay pot dishes and the sweet potato fries are probably the best in Phong Nha.

6. A Little Leaf*
Seriously good seafood served here as well as being a contender for coldest beer. The owner is knowledgeable and will let you try his special tea too. I love the BBQ prawns, spring rolls and the scallops the most.

7. Vung Hue
One of the original eateries in Phong Nha and they still have some of the best food in town. A family owned business with a great menu, if you are eating alone you can try the mixed plate. As a group there is so much to share to enjoy a selection of pork, beef and veggie dishes. The spring rolls are good, the stewed pork excellent and the pork ribs delicious.

8. Thang Nhung BBQ
This place has got it spot on for pork lovers! Anything from breakfast through to evening meal is so tasty and cheap. Surprisingly they do one of the best tofu soups I’ve tried too.

9. Banh Xeo market stall
One of the best value meals in Phong Nha and is situated at a small space on the left as you enter the local market area. The pork and shrimp crispy rice pancakes are great and it’s served pretty fast when you want to keep ordering more. Great for lunch or dinner but get there early.

10. Lucky Home (formerly Lucky Lucky)*
Situated on the river about 1km out of town it has the perfect views for watching the boats go by. The owners give excellent service despite limited English and they have some of the best snacks (peanuts) in town.

11. D-Arts
This is directly opposite Easy Tiger has great staff who will make you feel very welcome. The bun cha comes in 3 sizes and is the best in town! There is a comfy chill out seating area inside for drinking a chilled cider or cold beer too.

12. Phong Nha River House*
Ideal for a group booking for dinner this place has some of the best pork dishes I’ve had in Phong Nha. Set on the river about 3km from the town centre. The chef is excellent, the portions are a good size and if you fancy western style chips here probably has the best ones! I’d recommend booking in advance.

13. Jungle Boss Homestay*
This is a place to go for either breakfast or dinner and you should book in advance. The evening buffet style dinner is superb and if you get chance to try the garlic pumpkin dish you should. They also have a pool, some of the nicest staff and a smiley bartender to make your experience a good one.

14. Carambola Bungalows*
A great place with nice views of the river and an extensive menu. The pork dishes are the best. This place also has wine which is a bonus and is in a quiet part of town.

15. Restful River Bungalows*
This was my place to go for a lunch break. The staff are friendly, the pool and River loaction are great and the food is simple but tasty. My favourites are the fried rice and the chicken stir fry dishes. They have a well stocked drinks fridge too.

16. Oxalis Home*
I absolutely love the tofu dish and the chicken and cashew dish here. It’s on the river and has lots of seating in the shade with good views.

17. Momma D’s
Known for its amazing cocktails, craft beer and incredible sunset views this rooftop bar is a gem. The peanuts and french fries are my favourite snacks here but you can also order from various different menus (Indian, Vietnamese, Italian) as well as their own food menu. Ideal with a bottle of decent wine!

18. Namaste
If you’re craving Indian food then this is the place to go, the menu is extensive and the beer is probably the coldest in Phong Nha. I often have the special menu which works out cheaper. I bet Raj, the manager could tell you my favourite dish – bhuna murgh with garlic rice!! Service is ace too.

19. Chao Vietnam
One of the newer places serving modern interpretations of classic Vietnamese dishes from around the country. Great menu, excellent wine and a cool place to eat. My favourites are pretty much everything on the menu and the spring rolls are fantastic.

20. Easy Tiger*
You can’t go wrong with eating at this well known hostel, plenty to choose from and the staff are well trained. I enjoy the stir fry and the sausages here the most but there is so much to choose from. The wine is good value for money too.

21. Capture Cafe
Next door to Easy Tiger and famous for its pizzas. My gluten free favourites are the bacon, beans and potatoes for breakfast, the fab smoothies and the bolognese with potato wedges. I’ve been known to create my own salad too. This place is my favourite for wine and picking up western style snacks (they have crisps)!

22. Bamboo cafe
My favourite dishes here are the pork kebabs and the beef stew. The staff speak good English and are friendly, including the owner who may get the guitar out and sing now and again. The cocktails are strong and beers cold.

23. Veggie Box
Another vegan restaurant which I am a massive fan of the hotpot – it’s great value for money, so healthy and tastes delicious. If you are by yourself order vegan soup which is the hotpot for one, already prepared and in the bowl. The coconut rice is so good and a chat with Ha, the waitress, makes everyone’s day.

24. Coffee Station
It’s worth saying I don’t like coffee but this cute cafe is still one of my favourites for breakfast. The fruit salad with homemade yogurt is filling and the smoothie bowls are just the thing to sort out a hangover. Dare I say the herbal tea is excellent.

25. Underground
One of my favourite places to eat in Phong Nha because I have much more gluten free choices with a western flare. The Forever Pork, the tamarind chicken dish and the fresh garden rolls are the best. The passion fruit smoothie is also excellent. Not the cheapest but you are getting excellent quality at this restaurant.

26. The Villas at Victory Road Villas*
This place is a bit of a treat! I love that it has some of the best staff working here and that there is a good menu selection. If you are looking for cheap eats, this is not the place but you certainly get good value. My favourite dishes are the confit duck leg with lentils, pho ga (for breakfast), potato gratin with asparagus and truffle oil and the potato and edamame bean salad. The wine is moreish, the happy hour a bit too good and popcorn is often served with your drinks. I can recommend the margaritas.

27. Moi Moi
I got a car there on several occasions but you can go by motorbike or bicycle (if you and the bicycle are fit enough). My favourite dish there is the bamboo pork but the casava dumplings and chicken are also good. The food is as fresh as it comes so probably best to order in advance. Great for groups and very relaxed.

28. The Pub with Cold Beer
This certainly lives up to its name but could just have easily been named the pub with the best chicken and peanut sauce. It’s a bit of a cycle ride and if it’s rainy I’d take a car or motorbike. The food is simple but brilliant if you love BBQ chicken and aren’t allergic to peanuts! I could drink that sauce, it’s that good.

29. East Hill
Also a BBQ chicken place but good to hang out at sunset. The food is cheap and tasty and has cold Tiger beers and a good selection of juices.

30. Phong Nha Farmstay*
One of my favourite places to visit when I want to get away from the Phong Nha town centre. They have a mix of western and Vietnamese food and there is a massive wine selection and a fully stocked bar. Service is impressive and it’s a great place to chill out by the pool or by the fire – an all weather kind of place.

Captain Caveman and Julia were picked up to go on their Jungle Boss tour to Tiger Cave for 3 days/2 nights while I had been invited to Ho Khanh’s, to a BBQ party at 3pm. We live nearby and often go to visit most days as it is the place Captain Caveman and his colleagues hang out, have great coffee or have a swim in the river.

The party was already started when I arrived, there were big bowls of beers and ciders in ice and water, even the dogs were impressed with the selection of drinks provided. The steak was unbelievably tender and juicy and I had 3 pieces, plus salad (no dressing), so was pretty healthy.

A good selection of guests were there and it was nice to see quite a few friends enjoying the new waterslide, including the adults! Once the rice wine came out and the more sensible guests had left I decided to make my move and leave. The next week was going to be my last full week in Phong Nha and it was already looking hectic, especially as I was about to share my room for a few days!

Our friend, Julia, was coming to visit for 5 days so that she and Captain Caveman could join the Jungle Boss tour, Tiger Cave Series Adventure. That morning we were awake early and in the car by 6:30am on our way to Dong Hoi airport via Chay Lap. I had a bad stomach and almost didn’t go but once we got to Chay Lap to pick up 5 of Captain Caveman’s Son Doong customers we had a bit of a wait as they were all still eating breakfast. Luckily Julia’s flight wasn’t due to land until 08:35am so by the time we had said our goodbyes and walked to the arrivals she was here.
We ‘checked her in’ to our spare room and made arrangements for her to borrow my old bicycle so we could go for a late breakfast at Victory Road Villas. Later we had a couple of cold drinks at Easy Tiger, with Josh too, and then went to D’Arts for the best Bun Cha in town.

I’d already had a couple of ciders and a pepsi when Captain Caveman decided we would be going on a bike ride around Phong Nha, just as it started to get sunny – I had no hat or suncream and even Josh decided to go home but Julia was totally up for it. Of course they zoomed off and I didn’t see Captain Caveman for dust, while Julia felt she had a duty of care to stay with me, especially as I had already moaned it was too hot, it was too far, I didn’t know the way and that Captain Caveman never waits for me. Eventually even she got bored of me being quite a ‘slowy’ and went to catch up but I saw them ahead turn in to a new homestay called Escape.
I had a water and stuck my hot (as in sweaty) legs in the pool to try to cool down while Captain Caveman explained the next exciting part of the route which would bring us the long way to our house. I was assured that it was really easy and Captain Caveman promised he would be right next to us.

Of course it wasn’t easy, I got chased by dogs, splattered with mud by a child who was scooping muddy water from a puddle with a tennis racket (I had to get off and give him what for!) then we got heavy rain. Apart from that, we saw a nice full rainbow which Captain Caveman missed because he sprinted off before the rain started without a word to either of us, so he could get the washing in.
Back home we had a few minutes to get ready and then we were cycling back down to town to eat dinner at Chao Vietnam where I needed wine – a rather delightful 2 carafes of Chardonnay to be precise.
We even witnessed the owner kill a snake, right next to a family with young kids, using only his flipflop – another first for me. Josh had joined us for a beer after his Son Doong briefing but we didn’t go out after dinner because all of them had a tour the next day. I, on the other hand, had a busy few days coming up – I had agreed to do a favour for a friend.

A civilised girls night out was planned before Jamie, our American friend, returned home and it turned out to be one of those Phong Nha memories that we will laugh about for some time.
My day started well with a healthy breakfast of garden rolls and herbal tea at Underground and more watching of The Vietnam War on Netflix. I had a simple lunch of cheese, rice crackers and cashew nuts before cycling in to town to shop at the market.

The girls (just four of us) were booked in for drinks at 5pm at Victory Road Villas so that we could enjoy ‘Happy Hour and a Half’, however this also clashed with Jamie’s ‘opening of a karaoke’ party in town.
I ate beef and pineapple rice from Chao Vietnam before heading to Victory Road Villas for just after 5pm where I was on my second margarita and had finished a bowl of popcorn when the first of the girls arrived. By the time Jamie joined us we were on the red wine and getting tipsy.

Eventually the last of the girls joined us and everyone (but me) was hungry so we went to Underground for dinner and more wine.
We also had more wine at Easy Tiger and Jamie convinced me to go to Andy’s Disco Bar – it’s the only late bar in town with a dancefloor and half decent music. Being a bit drunk we actually tried to go before it was open and we were sent away until 11pm, by which time we were hammered.

We needed an Andy’s stamp to get in and I wasn’t content with having one on my arm like normal people. Jamie’s shoes were hurting her and she wanted to go barefoot so we swapped and she got my comfy flip-flops in exchange for her sexy high nude sandals. I’ve not worn heels for years, although I love them, so I was loving prancing about and dancing in them. Jamie and I got invited to see some (husky) puppies out the back of the bar by Andy and we got involved with stroking, cuddling and feeding the cute little things.

August started with me dancing to some great tunes on a busy dance floor in Phong Nha’s only ‘night club’ – Andy’s. At my age it’s not a normal occurrence for me to frequent such establishments but I had been persuaded by the girls after drinking far too much on Wine Wednesday.
It turned out to be a good laugh and I didn’t get home until 1am (extremely rare for me). I still had on Jamie’s shoes which she’d let me keep and I was unsure how I’d made it up the 4 lots of stairs to my room.
I woke up at 5am to the sound of dogs barking and fighting and then had the hangover from hell. When one of the girls came to pick me up so I could retrieve my bicycle from Victory Road Villas, I was still in my pyjamas but didnt care, and we bumped in to the VRV owner. Breakfast of vegan soup with rice noodles and mint tea at Veggie Box sorted me out temporarily but then I went back to bed.

1) Go on a tour – most adventure tours will go ahead as planned or in a safely modified way so check with the company and get ready for your adventure. You will be out of the rain when you’re in a cave so there is no need to cancel any pre-booked tours.

2) Eat – there are so many good places to eat in Phong Nha that you will be spoiled for choice. A few places also do takeaway and delivery too.

3) Drink – grab a smoothie or a glass of wine. Lots of places will offer free water refills too so you can help reduce the amount of plastic.

4) Phong Nha cave – spend a half day on this trip from the Tourism Centre by boat which will drop you inside the cave for you to explore inside both caves.

Captain Caveman’s photo at Phong Nha Cave

5) Play pool – there are a few bars and hostels offering free pool tables including Easy Tiger, Sunflowers & Phong Nha Farmstay.

6) Read a book – you can often do a book swap or even buy a new book at a cheap price at Capture Cafe.

7) Get a massage – my favourite is Dr Sy of Magic Fingers, he’s very good and great value. If you’re staying at Chay Lap Farmstay resort they also offer a massage service.

8) Have a manicure or pedicure – there are a few places around so ask your homestay for a recommendation or visit Lemon Tree for a treatment or two.

9) Go to the market and buy a rain poncho and plastic sandals – the local market will sell cheap coverups and shoes for if you are still wanting to get out and about by foot, bicycle, or motorbike. Expectt to get a poncho and sandals for less than $3.

10) Sing – there are so many karaoke places where you can rent the room by the hour to belt out a few ballads and ruin a couple of rock anthems. They vary in price according to the size of room, variety of songs and quality of the snacks.

11) Go for a swim – you’re already going to get wet so why not have a swim in one of the many pools in Phong Nha.

12) Cooking Class – why not learn how to cook some local food and then eat it! Your hostel or homestay can advise of one close by.

13) Sit in a bar or cafe and people watch – there are so many places you can sit and watch the world go by, and wonder at the people out in the rain wandering about.

Our first visit to this new place was brilliant! The sun was out but with the promise of cloudiness and rain ahead. Captain Caveman and I ate breakfast at Coffee Station and were joined by our two friends for a day out. Captain Caveman had rented a motorbike for the day from a local company, who has good bikes for 100,000vnd per 24hrs, so that we could drive over to see the newest accommodation in Phong Nha. The owner happened to have his birthday that day and we let him know we were coming to check out his new place!
Karst Villas is wonderful and probably the nicest place to stay in town! We had a tour around the rooms and villas, went on the roof and tested out the pool. The owner invited us all to come to stay to try out the place soon, however, Captain Caveman has little time off this month and none of us had matching time off. Being a lady of leisure I could go any time, of course.
The chef was away but the owner knocked up a lunch for us, gave us fruit and waters and fluffy towels at the pool – it wasn’t even open yet!! The girls posed as models by the pool for the day and we took so many photos, mostly of bikini-clad ladies.

It was so good a visit that we have been back again since and tested out the chef’s Vietnamese food which was delicious. My favourite is their deep swimming pool, which Captain Caveman loved to dive in to, and the comfy sun-loungers. Even on the second visit, which was cloudy, we still caught the sun.

Being a lady of leisure, as well as having Jamie and her family over for a visit, has meant I can join in on the fun stuff for a change instead of saying I can’t come because I’m working. It was only 5 days since the start of my tourist visa and 6 weeks until I would be with some of my UK family and friends in Turkey so I was looking forward to being a tourist for the day in the Phong Nha area.
Captain Caveman and I had a leisurely breakfast at Capture cafe before getting picked up by Jamie and her family for a day out to one of the famous places in the nearby Bong Lai Valley. I’d never been before and I was so excited, although a little bit nervous as I’m scared of some birds (I have a terrible fear of pigeons).
At the Duck Stop we got to see, feed and touch ducks and it was so good – it’s not just for the kids! It was busy and we waited with a cold drink and some fresh peanuts while chatting to the owner and the other staff and their kids. We were shown the best way to eat the peanuts, with the local pepper corns and salt before being given a conicle hat to wear.
Inside the duck enclosure we were guided by the owner who is so good with the ducks. Both Jamie and I love animals and so we were pleased to see they were treated very well. Each and everyone of us, including the 2 little kids, were allowed to feed the ducks and we were given so much opportunity for photos and videos. It was also my first time touching a real live duck and it felt so soft!
When we eventually felt like we had spent enough time with the ducks we went out of the enclosure to a hand and foot washing station, which is basically a hose pipe and some soap which does the job for hands and feet. I did wear my own porter sandals but if you don’t have them you can borrow them so your own shoes don’t get dirty. There are also some great quality t-shirts you can buy for a souvenir but the staff are not pushy so you can ask to try on at the back of the bar area.

After all the excitement of the Duck Stop we went to Moi Moi for lunch and had a selection of delicious food. We should’ve pre-ordered as it took a while to come and we were all hungry and tired. It was sunny and hot but not unbearable and we got to chill in hammocks while waiting. Moi Moi is a simple eatery ran by the family, where your food is very fresh – our chicken was still alive when we arrived!
The bamboo pork is my absolute favourite while Captain Caveman just loves the veggie cassava and peanut starter. All the food is prepared and cooked in the very basic kitchen over an open fire next to where the children and dogs play. The beer is cold and the staff warm and welcoming despite not speaking too much English. All in all a great day out and we didn’t even have time to visit all the other places in the Bong Lai Valley – maybe another time.
We cheated and did it by car with a local driver, however, fitter and more adventurous types can certainly make the journey by bicycle from Phong Nha.

On my last day at work with Jungle Boss (for this year, anyway) I was meant to work 2-5.30pm at the sales office and then have my leaving party at Sunflower’s straight after, but as luck would have it there was a shift change which meant I had to do my handover with the manager before 2pm. I worked from home after seeing Captain Caveman off to Son Doong and I knocked up a spreadsheet containing all my customer details before cycling down to the Sales Office to hand in my laptop and Sim card.
Later I stopped by the Jungle Boss Homestay to have a swim and confirm details for the leaving drinks which then got changed. Boss suggested we have a Jungle Boss pool party and everyone could join the party which was a great idea. Most of the staff live nearby or have kids (or both) so would be easier to drink locally. There was a new bartender with some cocktails and juices for him to try on us, as well as having some comfy poolside side seats and the refreshing swimming pool. It was a really great send off! I had such a great time and I think we really worked Tuan (the bartender) hard.
I went home in my wet swimwear but with my dress over the top and a little bit merry! I was looking forward to having some free time in Phong Nha, taking some Vietnamese lessons too, but I was also going to miss the Jungle Boss family!

For anyone reading this who is coming to Phong Nha, Vietnam and wants to do a tour or stay at Jungle Boss, here is their website.

Jungle Boss Adventure Tours, Homestay & Organic Farm